boost drop at 4000 rpm
01-07-2013, 11:58 AM
#81
Ignore my comments about the vacuum pipe to the reg, I have no idea what was done to mine but it seems its wrong!
Rob,
01-07-2013, 01:17 PM
#82
This thread is confusing enough for those of us who speak English as our native language let alone for luxemboutgrst! 
There are a couple of things you must do before going any further, as James has said:
Replace your Makilor boost clamps with normal worm gear jubilee clips, the Makilor ones do not seal well at all and you'll be leaking boost everywhere under load and probably sucking in air off boost.
Replace your braided injector lines with normal hard pipes, the braided ones will expand under high fuel pressure and you will go lean.
As Tony has said remove the pipe from your inlet to your FPR, I've never played with this myself although lots of people have done it over the years, but the bottom line is you do not need to!!
Then once you have stable fuel pressure and no leaks you can go about setting you car up:
Set the ignition timing with the pipe to the ECU disconnected and blocked to 8 degree's BTDC, this will give you a little safety margin when upping your boost whilst you monitor for detonation (If you do not have any detonation monitoring equipment then make some or buy some, just google around there is lots of information out there).
Then using your WBO2 (which you have said many times you do have) check your full load wide open throttle (4th gear 6400rpm) AFR's and adjust as needed for 11.0:1 at your target boost.
Then slowly advance your timing until the point of detonation (using what ever RON fuel you plan on normally using) and then retard 3 degrees.
Set your idle AFR as close to 14.0:1 as you can.
Finally re-check for detonation and adjust your full load WOT fuelling to 11.5:1
Please read what I have said carefully and make sure you understand it, your engine is at risk if you do not.
There are a couple of things you must do before going any further, as James has said:
Replace your Makilor boost clamps with normal worm gear jubilee clips, the Makilor ones do not seal well at all and you'll be leaking boost everywhere under load and probably sucking in air off boost.
Replace your braided injector lines with normal hard pipes, the braided ones will expand under high fuel pressure and you will go lean.
As Tony has said remove the pipe from your inlet to your FPR, I've never played with this myself although lots of people have done it over the years, but the bottom line is you do not need to!!
Then once you have stable fuel pressure and no leaks you can go about setting you car up:
Set the ignition timing with the pipe to the ECU disconnected and blocked to 8 degree's BTDC, this will give you a little safety margin when upping your boost whilst you monitor for detonation (If you do not have any detonation monitoring equipment then make some or buy some, just google around there is lots of information out there).
Then using your WBO2 (which you have said many times you do have) check your full load wide open throttle (4th gear 6400rpm) AFR's and adjust as needed for 11.0:1 at your target boost.
Then slowly advance your timing until the point of detonation (using what ever RON fuel you plan on normally using) and then retard 3 degrees.
Set your idle AFR as close to 14.0:1 as you can.
Finally re-check for detonation and adjust your full load WOT fuelling to 11.5:1
Please read what I have said carefully and make sure you understand it, your engine is at risk if you do not.
Last edited by Karlos G; 01-07-2013 at 01:18 PM.
01-07-2013, 07:56 PM
#83
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
well ok guys
i checked my turbo clams i they look very strong fixed no visuel leak or oil who comes out ... i loose my red original mfi meetering pipes .. and i also didnt had the time to put the ingintion timing to 8 degree BUT i took this cute vacuum hoose to the fuel regulator again off
then i took the black box on the mettering unit off an turn the flat screw out an then with 3 mm allen key i turn it 1/4 clockwise put it togheter again ....
then i put my idle on 14.7 AFR
drove the car and yes at 3000 rpm the turbo is charging i had like 12 afr ....
well i took again
the black box off turn like a half quarter clockwise put it togheter again
then at idle i had 12 AFR which is normal because more fuel pressure put it corrrect to 14.7
try the car and when the turbo is boosting i had 10.5 -11 afr only when it was really boost on 5500 trs it climb to 12 afr
i think now is more savly to drive the car need i to put again more pressure ?....
i checked my turbo clams i they look very strong fixed no visuel leak or oil who comes out ... i loose my red original mfi meetering pipes .. and i also didnt had the time to put the ingintion timing to 8 degree BUT i took this cute vacuum hoose to the fuel regulator again off
then i took the black box on the mettering unit off an turn the flat screw out an then with 3 mm allen key i turn it 1/4 clockwise put it togheter again ....
then i put my idle on 14.7 AFR
drove the car and yes at 3000 rpm the turbo is charging i had like 12 afr ....
well i took again
the black box off turn like a half quarter clockwise put it togheter again
then at idle i had 12 AFR which is normal because more fuel pressure put it corrrect to 14.7
try the car and when the turbo is boosting i had 10.5 -11 afr only when it was really boost on 5500 trs it climb to 12 afr
i think now is more savly to drive the car need i to put again more pressure ?....
01-07-2013, 09:57 PM
#86
well ok guys
i checked my turbo clams i they look very strong fixed no visuel leak or oil who comes out ... i loose my red original mfi meetering pipes .. and i also didnt had the time to put the ingintion timing to 8 degree BUT i took this cute vacuum hoose to the fuel regulator again off
then i took the black box on the mettering unit off an turn the flat screw out an then with 3 mm allen key i turn it 1/4 clockwise put it togheter again ....
then i put my idle on 14.7 AFR
drove the car and yes at 3000 rpm the turbo is charging i had like 12 afr ....
well i took again
the black box off turn like a half quarter clockwise put it togheter again
then at idle i had 12 AFR which is normal because more fuel pressure put it corrrect to 14.7
try the car and when the turbo is boosting i had 10.5 -11 afr only when it was really boost on 5500 trs it climb to 12 afr
i think now is more savly to drive the car need i to put again more pressure ?....
i checked my turbo clams i they look very strong fixed no visuel leak or oil who comes out ... i loose my red original mfi meetering pipes .. and i also didnt had the time to put the ingintion timing to 8 degree BUT i took this cute vacuum hoose to the fuel regulator again off
then i took the black box on the mettering unit off an turn the flat screw out an then with 3 mm allen key i turn it 1/4 clockwise put it togheter again ....
then i put my idle on 14.7 AFR
drove the car and yes at 3000 rpm the turbo is charging i had like 12 afr ....
well i took again
the black box off turn like a half quarter clockwise put it togheter again
then at idle i had 12 AFR which is normal because more fuel pressure put it corrrect to 14.7
try the car and when the turbo is boosting i had 10.5 -11 afr only when it was really boost on 5500 trs it climb to 12 afr
i think now is more savly to drive the car need i to put again more pressure ?....
01-07-2013, 10:29 PM
#87
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
going back to the vac pipe/fpr reg trick. my car was also set up in this way and is perfect on boost fuelling and drives nice off boost. some say don't do it, others say do. whats the alternative way to get the fuelling right without using this method? I don't doubt tony or james for one minute but im curious to know how you used to get the fuelling right for higher boost/bigger turbo's ect.
01-07-2013, 10:32 PM
#89
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
going back to the vac pipe/fpr reg trick. my car was also set up in this way and is perfect on boost fuelling and drives nice off boost. some say don't do it, others say do. whats the alternative way to get the fuelling right without using this method? I don't doubt tony or james for one minute but im curious to know how you used to get the fuelling right for higher boost/bigger turbo's ect.
01-07-2013, 10:36 PM
#90
going back to the vac pipe/fpr reg trick. my car was also set up in this way and is perfect on boost fuelling and drives nice off boost. some say don't do it, others say do. whats the alternative way to get the fuelling right without using this method? I don't doubt tony or james for one minute but im curious to know how you used to get the fuelling right for higher boost/bigger turbo's ect.
Good to know my car wasn't the only one like this, thought I was going mad! Karlos is very right when he says this is a confusing thread, ***EDIT, my EMFPR was obviously also adjusted, Chris added the vac line to the regulator claiming that it would lean the off boost area, it seemed to work well but as Tony says it should actually have done the opposite! Richened off boost and leaned on boost which is totally not what you want***
My car also had one of Tony's chips but the ign timing still needed to be retarded a little, so start retarded and gradually advance (if you det cans).
Sounds like you are making good progress
Last edited by Rob_DOHC; 02-07-2013 at 12:09 PM.
01-07-2013, 10:36 PM
#91
10.5-11.5 is fine, but if you are unsure about about detonation go twards 10.5 and retard your ignition timing, this imo will yeild the safest setup with the equipment you have.
Rob,
Last edited by Rob_DOHC; 01-07-2013 at 10:40 PM.
02-07-2013, 09:36 AM
#93
going back to the vac pipe/fpr reg trick. my car was also set up in this way and is perfect on boost fuelling and drives nice off boost. some say don't do it, others say do. whats the alternative way to get the fuelling right without using this method? I don't doubt tony or james for one minute but im curious to know how you used to get the fuelling right for higher boost/bigger turbo's ect.
Ask Stu from MSD as they are his chips, but I would always start from 8 BTDC and work from there.
04-07-2013, 08:47 PM
#95
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
well guys i had a big problem today i drove the car on the motorway took an exit an when i putted the gear down my engine stalls goes out OFF i try to start it start hard an don t stay on idle i looked at my AFR and it was on 18 ? ? 
i drove the car at 18 on AFR but only 2 minutes at than i cut the engine off i looked for some big air leak at the engine bay i didnt found
put the black box off turn the pressure again more up try to start the car it start but the idle goes UP and DOWN again UP and DOWN i played with the CO srew also nothing at idle 18 on AFR
and my brake pedal feel hard harder then before
also on idle when i pump with the brake pedal the idle goes up
strange ? a air leak at the brake servo ?
strange that suddently this happen ?
but also my blake box on the meetering unit was a little wet of fuel on it but the 2 O rings gasket looks ok ....
don t understand
i drove the car at 18 on AFR but only 2 minutes at than i cut the engine off i looked for some big air leak at the engine bay i didnt found put the black box off turn the pressure again more up try to start the car it start but the idle goes UP and DOWN again UP and DOWN i played with the CO srew also nothing at idle 18 on AFR
and my brake pedal feel hard harder then before
also on idle when i pump with the brake pedal the idle goes up
strange ? a air leak at the brake servo ?
strange that suddently this happen ?
but also my blake box on the meetering unit was a little wet of fuel on it but the 2 O rings gasket looks ok ....
don t understand
Last edited by luxembourgrst; 04-07-2013 at 09:06 PM.
05-07-2013, 05:25 PM
#96
Sounds like you may have a big air leak somewhere. Check all hoses behind the inlet manifold. Its also possible that the MFI unit is damaged, but check for air leaks first.
RPM rising when you pump the brake pedal isn't unusual. But its also not unusual for the servo pipe to leak.
Good luck
Rob,
RPM rising when you pump the brake pedal isn't unusual. But its also not unusual for the servo pipe to leak.
Good luck
Rob,
06-07-2013, 05:40 AM
#99
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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