s2 watercooled turbo problem,help please
#1
s2 watercooled turbo problem,help please
well guys my mate has a s1 with a watercooled s2 turbo fitted ,
when the car is driving the temp stays fine ,but when he stops the car starts gurgling like mad .
today it was decided to bypass the watercooling part of the turbo and see what happened and the gurguling stopped.
the car seems to have some s2 hosing and some s1 ,and we arent sure if its all plumbed up right .
first of all ,is it possible to run the turbo without the watercooling and blank off the housing and go back to standard hoses etc ?
or
could the watercooling housing within the turbo have a crack in it that is filling the cooling system with air thus causing the problem .
he is pulling his hair out at this stage ,so any info/help would be much appreciated
when the car is driving the temp stays fine ,but when he stops the car starts gurgling like mad .
today it was decided to bypass the watercooling part of the turbo and see what happened and the gurguling stopped.
the car seems to have some s2 hosing and some s1 ,and we arent sure if its all plumbed up right .
first of all ,is it possible to run the turbo without the watercooling and blank off the housing and go back to standard hoses etc ?
or
could the watercooling housing within the turbo have a crack in it that is filling the cooling system with air thus causing the problem .
he is pulling his hair out at this stage ,so any info/help would be much appreciated
#5
cheers john
its brians s1 mate ,he just had the head off and skimmed new headbolts gasket,new rad etc.the car has being doing this since he got it .it s fine and the temp goes up halfway when he is driving ,fans cut in and out as normal but when he is stopped the friggin thing goes mad lol
its brians s1 mate ,he just had the head off and skimmed new headbolts gasket,new rad etc.the car has being doing this since he got it .it s fine and the temp goes up halfway when he is driving ,fans cut in and out as normal but when he is stopped the friggin thing goes mad lol
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#8
An eye for detail...
iTrader: (1)
Bit of a debate about water cooling, while the T3 fitted generally can be ok without, its best to keep it if you can.
See here for why
The gurgling sound is most likely the turbo boiling the water inside the core which draws cooler water into the bottom. This takes the heat away from the core. It also heats up the cooling system quicker and helps keep a bit of heat out of the oil system.
See here for why
The gurgling sound is most likely the turbo boiling the water inside the core which draws cooler water into the bottom. This takes the heat away from the core. It also heats up the cooling system quicker and helps keep a bit of heat out of the oil system.
#12
Irregular Poster
I must give Brian a shout on facebook!!
But if he has had the head skimmed etc, then i would seriously look into taking the thermostat out and also have a look at the heater matrix!!
I also changed the heater matrix in my fiesta and it made a dramatic difference, but was still pressurising a little bit. Then one day i threw the head up, ripped off the head and seen a rotted part of the headgasket and in a deeper inspection of the head, it had a hairline crack on the face where the gasket rotted. Swapped the head over and it was grand after that
But if he has had the head skimmed etc, then i would seriously look into taking the thermostat out and also have a look at the heater matrix!!
I also changed the heater matrix in my fiesta and it made a dramatic difference, but was still pressurising a little bit. Then one day i threw the head up, ripped off the head and seen a rotted part of the headgasket and in a deeper inspection of the head, it had a hairline crack on the face where the gasket rotted. Swapped the head over and it was grand after that
#13
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if its fine with no water feeds then yes remove them. ive had loads of rs's with them removed & cossies.
another thing if it does come back is the header tank cap.
had loads of issues with my series 1 in the past boiling up in tank etc & it turned out the headertank cap was knackerd lol. i wouldnt have gueesed it myself but it was an old skool ford mechanic at my local dealership that spotted fault
another thing if it does come back is the header tank cap.
had loads of issues with my series 1 in the past boiling up in tank etc & it turned out the headertank cap was knackerd lol. i wouldnt have gueesed it myself but it was an old skool ford mechanic at my local dealership that spotted fault
#14
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As long as you drive your waterpump has a higher flow, so less change on boiling. There is a change that this is part of your problem. If you know your pressure you can also calculate which temperatures you are reaching with boiling water. Might be interesting to see how bad is it
#15
I must give Brian a shout on facebook!!
But if he has had the head skimmed etc, then i would seriously look into taking the thermostat out and also have a look at the heater matrix!!
I also changed the heater matrix in my fiesta and it made a dramatic difference, but was still pressurising a little bit. Then one day i threw the head up, ripped off the head and seen a rotted part of the headgasket and in a deeper inspection of the head, it had a hairline crack on the face where the gasket rotted. Swapped the head over and it was grand after that
But if he has had the head skimmed etc, then i would seriously look into taking the thermostat out and also have a look at the heater matrix!!
I also changed the heater matrix in my fiesta and it made a dramatic difference, but was still pressurising a little bit. Then one day i threw the head up, ripped off the head and seen a rotted part of the headgasket and in a deeper inspection of the head, it had a hairline crack on the face where the gasket rotted. Swapped the head over and it was grand after that
if its fine with no water feeds then yes remove them. ive had loads of rs's with them removed & cossies.
another thing if it does come back is the header tank cap.
had loads of issues with my series 1 in the past boiling up in tank etc & it turned out the headertank cap was knackerd lol. i wouldnt have gueesed it myself but it was an old skool ford mechanic at my local dealership that spotted fault
another thing if it does come back is the header tank cap.
had loads of issues with my series 1 in the past boiling up in tank etc & it turned out the headertank cap was knackerd lol. i wouldnt have gueesed it myself but it was an old skool ford mechanic at my local dealership that spotted fault
i did mention the headercap and he said its fine
it might be worth putting a bit of tape on the threads just to check though
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turbo water pipes are normally connected: top turbo water pipe is teed into the top rad/thermostate houseing hose & the lower turbo one goes back to the side of the radiator.
but once again ive rad many cars at high boosts with no water feeds with no issues.
keep us posted on the updates
but once again ive rad many cars at high boosts with no water feeds with no issues.
keep us posted on the updates
#20
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
sorry to bring up an old thread mines doing the same and its bubberling on water pipe to thermostat how can i run the turbo without water to see if this is my issue
#21
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Just remove it and block it off.
Just FYI, I had the same problems as above. I have an Airtec rad and FMIC, 82 degree stat and S1 fan switch.
To cure the problem I replaced the header tank cap. Problem solved! Lots of people have had this issue with S2's, most just live with it.
Lee
Just FYI, I had the same problems as above. I have an Airtec rad and FMIC, 82 degree stat and S1 fan switch.
To cure the problem I replaced the header tank cap. Problem solved! Lots of people have had this issue with S2's, most just live with it.
Lee
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