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opinions on loom m/s loom install.

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Old 22-10-2012, 01:30 PM
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series_one_rst
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Default opinions on loom m/s loom install.

as part of my s1 rebuild i am re doing the loom on my m/s to make it look more oe and utilize the oringinal relays. thing is on every diagram the fuel relay powers almost everything which i`m not totally convinced about. as relays are 40amp rated and all those consumers off one relay will over load it.

my thinking was having the fuel pump relay as original running just that at 10-15a and the oe ke injection relay to power ecu 3a, wideband 5a, coil pack 15a idle valve 3a and injector lives 5a total of 31 amps.

only thing i`m questioning really is having the coil pack on the same circiut as the ecu, would that cause noise problems??
Old 22-10-2012, 05:30 PM
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studabear
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mine uses a ecu relay iirc and a fuel pump relay which also switches injectots, wideband, coil, iscv and boost control

Last edited by studabear; 22-10-2012 at 05:31 PM.
Old 22-10-2012, 08:23 PM
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The bits you mention don't draw that much current. Your ecu for example draws under 1A. Fuse values don't really relate to current drawn in normal operation.

Have a look at fords standard wiring loom for inspiration. Use the same lives they use and same grounding points.

Your grounds are going to be the most important connections with regard to noise reduction.

Rob
Old 22-10-2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by studabear
mine uses a ecu relay iirc and a fuel pump relay which also switches injectots, wideband, coil, iscv and boost control
How's your boost control working out btw mate? Are you using closed or open loop?

Rob
Old 22-10-2012, 08:28 PM
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Also the fuel relay doesn't power everything. The main relay does. The fuel pump relay iirc power the fuel pump only, at least it does on efi looms.
Old 22-10-2012, 08:55 PM
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studabear
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I would have to double check how mine is wired, but I'm pretty sure when my ecu switches the fuel pump on the iscv, injectors and coil etc get powered. We used the relay section from my cossie management loom.

With regards to the boost valve its not connected at the minute, when I was out with rick mapping we couldn't get any boost increase, turned out the wastegate had no pre load (thanks cr turbos ) The boost valve will be used when the car goes off to rick for the mapping of the zt I'm in the middle of.
Old 22-10-2012, 09:00 PM
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just going off this mate.



seems a very odd way of going about it to me.
Old 22-10-2012, 09:18 PM
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studabear
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Looks like the diagram we used!
Old 23-10-2012, 12:35 PM
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Ahh okay, that will work too. I tend to power some of that from the main relay, and use the fuel relay for pump and injector only. Both will work.

I was thinking more of other ancillaries that may also be powered by the main relay, having your radio powered by the fuel pump relay would be a bit annoying . Although reading back through that's pretty irrelevant.

Still, don't get too hung up on fuse ratings. Their current rating isnt related to normal running current draw, you ignition cool won't be drawing 15a for example, a brief short would mean it pulled more current for a short time before the fuse blew, most relays can cope with much higher current for a short period. A 40a relay will be fine.

You might want to check your mfi fuel relay before you use it, I believe they have a timer built in to prime the pump, your ms will be doing that for you so a standard relay in its place would be more appropriate.

Rob
Old 23-10-2012, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by studabear
I would have to double check how mine is wired, but I'm pretty sure when my ecu switches the fuel pump on the iscv, injectors and coil etc get powered. We used the relay section from my cossie management loom.

With regards to the boost valve its not connected at the minute, when I was out with rick mapping we couldn't get any boost increase, turned out the wastegate had no pre load (thanks cr turbos ) The boost valve will be used when the car goes off to rick for the mapping of the zt I'm in the middle of.
Ahh mate that's pretty annoying! I've only played with ms boost control a bit and don't know how stable it is on different cars etc. would be so much easier to trial new things if my car wasn't always in pieces!

Rob
Old 23-10-2012, 03:21 PM
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Im keen to use a boost control solenoid... Running off the ECU! How easy is this to do?
Old 23-10-2012, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob_DOHC
Ahh okay, that will work too. I tend to power some of that from the main relay, and use the fuel relay for pump and injector only. Both will work.

I was thinking more of other ancillaries that may also be powered by the main relay, having your radio powered by the fuel pump relay would be a bit annoying . Although reading back through that's pretty irrelevant.

Still, don't get too hung up on fuse ratings. Their current rating isnt related to normal running current draw, you ignition cool won't be drawing 15a for example, a brief short would mean it pulled more current for a short time before the fuse blew, most relays can cope with much higher current for a short period. A 40a relay will be fine.

You might want to check your mfi fuel relay before you use it, I believe they have a timer built in to prime the pump, your ms will be doing that for you so a standard relay in its place would be more appropriate.

Rob
i just use fuse rating as a rule of thumb to keep things well within working limits mate. is the fuel pump relay constantly powered then i take it not primed as an when? not much bother fitting a ignore relay in there.

ie fuel relay powering pump, ign relay for coil and relay for powering up ecu wideband inj and idle
Old 23-10-2012, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogeyboy
Im keen to use a boost control solenoid... Running off the ECU! How easy is this to do?
Its really simple to do mate, your OFAM is already fitted with a high current driver for a boost control solenoid. Its on the same pin/wiring as the original AMAL valve. So you can literally unplug the AMAL and plug in a solenoid.

Rob,
Old 23-10-2012, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by series_one_rst
i just use fuse rating as a rule of thumb to keep things well within working limits mate. is the fuel pump relay constantly powered then i take it not primed as an when? not much bother fitting a ignore relay in there.

ie fuel relay powering pump, ign relay for coil and relay for powering up ecu wideband inj and idle
The fuel pump is only on when the ecu has a CPS signal OR for a short period when the ecu is first powered.

However, (and you will have to check on this)

The MFI relay primes the pump using a timer, and then runs when the engine runs. You will probably be fine to use it, but I would double check first....or bang it on ebay (they get pretty good money.... for a relay) and put a nice new (not 20 years old!) relay in.

Personally, I have removed all 24 year old fuel pump related wiring from my car, I use two relays (main and fuel) triggered from the ignition switch (main) and the ecu (fuel), the relays are both 40A rated and have worked faultlessly.

There are a few ways to skin this cat But the simpler the better I find.

Rob,
Old 24-10-2012, 12:13 AM
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original relay and all ke jetronic wiring went years ago I'm just wanting to use the original fuse box and bus bar as much as i can to keep it tidy. no doubt it would work with only two relays just trying to see if there's an been any problems with it eg: having a coil powered from same source as ecu. would they conflict with each other. or injectors and coil?? etc.

really don't want to wire it up then have to strip it all out because there's a problem.
Old 24-10-2012, 05:39 PM
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Ahhh I see! wires crosses (bad joke).

I thought you waned to use all the original wiring relays and all!

You won't have an issue with the above. Bad grounds will be far more detrimental. Make sure your coil has the standard ford capacitor on it too.

Rob,
Old 24-10-2012, 06:58 PM
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studabear
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noise filter in tuner studio was my saviour
Old 24-10-2012, 07:05 PM
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You shouldn't really need it tbh mate. Our stuff has the noise filter off by default and haven't had an issue yet. However there are a few more components included just for proper noise management/isolation.

Saying that.... if it works, it works

Rob,
Old 24-10-2012, 07:19 PM
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studabear
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We used a farrite core, resistor plugs, decent leads, shielded cps wire, common earths (volt drop checked) coil suppressor. Had regular resets, about my normal luck with this car.

The filter cured everything
Old 25-10-2012, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob_DOHC
Ahhh I see! wires crosses (bad joke).

I thought you waned to use all the original wiring relays and all!

You won't have an issue with the above. Bad grounds will be far more detrimental. Make sure your coil has the standard ford capacitor on it too.

Rob,
haha! nice one.

no just utilsing space in oe fuse box for relays and modifying to take my ms loom, dont want odd bits of wiring everywhere. made my own loom up for the engine side which i will splice in to the orignal loom as much as i can.



running the ford ign capacitor and all my earth`s are individually wired back to block so fingers crossed wont have any problems there.

still tipping towards a 3rd relay in there for the coil if i`m honest.

cheers dude.

Last edited by series_one_rst; 25-10-2012 at 04:38 PM.
Old 27-10-2012, 01:21 PM
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You'll be fine either way mate Ford use two relays on the efi cvh's but three wouldn't hurt any thing.

Nice engine bay btw

Rob,
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