opinions on loom m/s loom install.
#1
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opinions on loom m/s loom install.
as part of my s1 rebuild i am re doing the loom on my m/s to make it look more oe and utilize the oringinal relays. thing is on every diagram the fuel relay powers almost everything which i`m not totally convinced about. as relays are 40amp rated and all those consumers off one relay will over load it.
my thinking was having the fuel pump relay as original running just that at 10-15a and the oe ke injection relay to power ecu 3a, wideband 5a, coil pack 15a idle valve 3a and injector lives 5a total of 31 amps.
only thing i`m questioning really is having the coil pack on the same circiut as the ecu, would that cause noise problems??
my thinking was having the fuel pump relay as original running just that at 10-15a and the oe ke injection relay to power ecu 3a, wideband 5a, coil pack 15a idle valve 3a and injector lives 5a total of 31 amps.
only thing i`m questioning really is having the coil pack on the same circiut as the ecu, would that cause noise problems??
#2
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mine uses a ecu relay iirc and a fuel pump relay which also switches injectots, wideband, coil, iscv and boost control
Last edited by studabear; 22-10-2012 at 05:31 PM.
#3
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The bits you mention don't draw that much current. Your ecu for example draws under 1A. Fuse values don't really relate to current drawn in normal operation.
Have a look at fords standard wiring loom for inspiration. Use the same lives they use and same grounding points.
Your grounds are going to be the most important connections with regard to noise reduction.
Rob
Have a look at fords standard wiring loom for inspiration. Use the same lives they use and same grounding points.
Your grounds are going to be the most important connections with regard to noise reduction.
Rob
#6
PassionFord Post Whore!!
I would have to double check how mine is wired, but I'm pretty sure when my ecu switches the fuel pump on the iscv, injectors and coil etc get powered. We used the relay section from my cossie management loom.
With regards to the boost valve its not connected at the minute, when I was out with rick mapping we couldn't get any boost increase, turned out the wastegate had no pre load (thanks cr turbos ) The boost valve will be used when the car goes off to rick for the mapping of the zt I'm in the middle of.
With regards to the boost valve its not connected at the minute, when I was out with rick mapping we couldn't get any boost increase, turned out the wastegate had no pre load (thanks cr turbos ) The boost valve will be used when the car goes off to rick for the mapping of the zt I'm in the middle of.
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#9
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Ahh okay, that will work too. I tend to power some of that from the main relay, and use the fuel relay for pump and injector only. Both will work.
I was thinking more of other ancillaries that may also be powered by the main relay, having your radio powered by the fuel pump relay would be a bit annoying . Although reading back through that's pretty irrelevant.
Still, don't get too hung up on fuse ratings. Their current rating isnt related to normal running current draw, you ignition cool won't be drawing 15a for example, a brief short would mean it pulled more current for a short time before the fuse blew, most relays can cope with much higher current for a short period. A 40a relay will be fine.
You might want to check your mfi fuel relay before you use it, I believe they have a timer built in to prime the pump, your ms will be doing that for you so a standard relay in its place would be more appropriate.
Rob
I was thinking more of other ancillaries that may also be powered by the main relay, having your radio powered by the fuel pump relay would be a bit annoying . Although reading back through that's pretty irrelevant.
Still, don't get too hung up on fuse ratings. Their current rating isnt related to normal running current draw, you ignition cool won't be drawing 15a for example, a brief short would mean it pulled more current for a short time before the fuse blew, most relays can cope with much higher current for a short period. A 40a relay will be fine.
You might want to check your mfi fuel relay before you use it, I believe they have a timer built in to prime the pump, your ms will be doing that for you so a standard relay in its place would be more appropriate.
Rob
#10
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I would have to double check how mine is wired, but I'm pretty sure when my ecu switches the fuel pump on the iscv, injectors and coil etc get powered. We used the relay section from my cossie management loom.
With regards to the boost valve its not connected at the minute, when I was out with rick mapping we couldn't get any boost increase, turned out the wastegate had no pre load (thanks cr turbos ) The boost valve will be used when the car goes off to rick for the mapping of the zt I'm in the middle of.
With regards to the boost valve its not connected at the minute, when I was out with rick mapping we couldn't get any boost increase, turned out the wastegate had no pre load (thanks cr turbos ) The boost valve will be used when the car goes off to rick for the mapping of the zt I'm in the middle of.
Rob
#12
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Ahh okay, that will work too. I tend to power some of that from the main relay, and use the fuel relay for pump and injector only. Both will work.
I was thinking more of other ancillaries that may also be powered by the main relay, having your radio powered by the fuel pump relay would be a bit annoying . Although reading back through that's pretty irrelevant.
Still, don't get too hung up on fuse ratings. Their current rating isnt related to normal running current draw, you ignition cool won't be drawing 15a for example, a brief short would mean it pulled more current for a short time before the fuse blew, most relays can cope with much higher current for a short period. A 40a relay will be fine.
You might want to check your mfi fuel relay before you use it, I believe they have a timer built in to prime the pump, your ms will be doing that for you so a standard relay in its place would be more appropriate.
Rob
I was thinking more of other ancillaries that may also be powered by the main relay, having your radio powered by the fuel pump relay would be a bit annoying . Although reading back through that's pretty irrelevant.
Still, don't get too hung up on fuse ratings. Their current rating isnt related to normal running current draw, you ignition cool won't be drawing 15a for example, a brief short would mean it pulled more current for a short time before the fuse blew, most relays can cope with much higher current for a short period. A 40a relay will be fine.
You might want to check your mfi fuel relay before you use it, I believe they have a timer built in to prime the pump, your ms will be doing that for you so a standard relay in its place would be more appropriate.
Rob
ie fuel relay powering pump, ign relay for coil and relay for powering up ecu wideband inj and idle
#14
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i just use fuse rating as a rule of thumb to keep things well within working limits mate. is the fuel pump relay constantly powered then i take it not primed as an when? not much bother fitting a ignore relay in there.
ie fuel relay powering pump, ign relay for coil and relay for powering up ecu wideband inj and idle
ie fuel relay powering pump, ign relay for coil and relay for powering up ecu wideband inj and idle
However, (and you will have to check on this)
The MFI relay primes the pump using a timer, and then runs when the engine runs. You will probably be fine to use it, but I would double check first....or bang it on ebay (they get pretty good money.... for a relay) and put a nice new (not 20 years old!) relay in.
Personally, I have removed all 24 year old fuel pump related wiring from my car, I use two relays (main and fuel) triggered from the ignition switch (main) and the ecu (fuel), the relays are both 40A rated and have worked faultlessly.
There are a few ways to skin this cat But the simpler the better I find.
Rob,
#15
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original relay and all ke jetronic wiring went years ago I'm just wanting to use the original fuse box and bus bar as much as i can to keep it tidy. no doubt it would work with only two relays just trying to see if there's an been any problems with it eg: having a coil powered from same source as ecu. would they conflict with each other. or injectors and coil?? etc.
really don't want to wire it up then have to strip it all out because there's a problem.
really don't want to wire it up then have to strip it all out because there's a problem.
#19
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We used a farrite core, resistor plugs, decent leads, shielded cps wire, common earths (volt drop checked) coil suppressor. Had regular resets, about my normal luck with this car.
The filter cured everything
The filter cured everything
#20
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no just utilsing space in oe fuse box for relays and modifying to take my ms loom, dont want odd bits of wiring everywhere. made my own loom up for the engine side which i will splice in to the orignal loom as much as i can.
running the ford ign capacitor and all my earth`s are individually wired back to block so fingers crossed wont have any problems there.
still tipping towards a 3rd relay in there for the coil if i`m honest.
cheers dude.
Last edited by series_one_rst; 25-10-2012 at 04:38 PM.
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