RS-Rikki

I'm just dreading turning the key :/

higgsy91

You can't time it wrong if you get the tools. Its just a thick flat metal plate that locks the cams. It slots into two grooves in the back of the cams so they can't move (I used an iron file)
They can only be locked one way too. This will stop you being 180° out..

Once these are locked then you can use the locking pin into the block and rotate the engine by hand clockwise until it stops against the pin.. If you don't have the locking pin then use an m10 bolt and insert it about 6.5cm in. Use tip ex to mark when to stop screwing it in..

If this is still too terrifying then your other options are to use the timing mark on the crank pulley and line it up with the correct area on the sump.. Or even easier is to take plug one out and put a long screwdriver in it, then rotate by hand to see where TDC is (a little after the piston has reached the top of its travel, as there's a small spot at TDC where it doesn't go up or down. So try find the middle). Don't worry too much about this anyway because as long as you haven't taken the gears off the cams then the belt well pull that odd degree of misalignment back again.

studabear

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-3096...item48573a6531

Its only 1 of the pins you use on the blacktop, the long one if i remember correctly.

higgsy91

+1 on this.. I found out after I bought the small one :/

RS-Rikki

I'm thinking of dropping the engine in with the gearbox attatached and turbo and inlet? Anyone managed this? Just think I'd rather know everything was spot in?

higgsy91

I did this with my focus. I fitted the downpipe too.
So much easier! Just push the loom and pipes somewhere neatly and then pull em in to position.

RS-Rikki

Right so I bought a zetec timing kit and a 1998-2000 mondeo cam belt

Fitted the cam bar to the cams

Undon the cam belt pulleys

Fitted the long pin into the front of the block near the cps but if you rotate the crank there are two positions that the locking pin locks it up

So there are old timing marks they used white tip ex on so we used them and it hit one of the locks we did everything back up and now the cam bar won't go in once we rotate it once

Any ideas on this is there a certain order on the cam sprockets to which they need doing up

studabear

Pretty sure cylinder 1 piston should be at the top if you have it right. Ignore any previous marks and only use the timing tools, thats what they are for.

RS-Rikki

But the crank pin locks the crank in two positions :/

higgsy91

As studabear said, ignore any other marks.
It can lock in two different positions yes.. It will lock at TDC if you turn it anti clockwise, and some random position if anti clockwise.
The best advise I can give is to put something long down the plug hole of Cylinder 1 (screwdriver, plastic straw...etc) and rotate the engine until the straw reaches Max height - TDC.
Then back it off anti-clockwise a little, insert the locking pin and rotate it forward clockwise until it stops.

RS-Rikki

But if I rotate the crank 1 turn the cams are out of sync

studabear

The crank turns twice for 1 full turn of the cams.

Without sounding a horrible git, have you got some data describing the procedure for replacing a cambelt oon this engine? It appears you aint got a clue?

higgsy91

Why are you trying to time it with the belt on? Line up the cams first and lock them in. Then take the belt off and line up the crank. Then put the belt back on and unlock it all

RS-Rikki

No I'm just making sure

Followed ur instruction tightened everything up so I turned the crank twice n locked it in position by the crank and now can't get the cam bar in as looks like they have moved slightly is this normal as we torqued everything up with the pin in and bar

higgsy91

So you mean to say that the belt has gone back on and now the cam bar won't go back in?
As long as you had the cams locked and the crank locked when putting on the belt then it should be timed correctly. What's the tension like on the belt from the exhaust cam to crank? Should be able to twist about 45°.

And did you make sure the little pointer on the tensioner was pointing to the little window when you finished tightening up?

If you have done these things and the bar now won't fit then its just where some of slack in the belt when fitted has now been removed (by the valve springs pushing against the cams). If you line up the bar with the slots I bet you can barely see the difference?

This is why I'd not reccomend removing the cam pulleys as they aren't woodruffed so it can go back on a degree or two out of alignment.

And another thing... Do not attempt to undo or tighten the cam pulley with that locking bar. You could snap the cam!

RS-Rikki

Gone to fit my dekkas to my inlet and the fuel rail is one where the fuel goes into the injectors not ontop so I'm taking it i have the wrong inlet I need the one that a rail bolts ontop of the injectors! Guessing the one I got was a 2.0 mondeo just on the change over?

Any of you guys know if a fuel rail will bolt ontop or do I need a whole new inlet cheers

RS-Rikki

Got the blacktop inlet on but the icv hits the starter motor

The starter motor I got is of a 1.3 1999 ka with the pre starter solenoid directly on top can u get starters with them in different positions?

Getboosting

Hi, just wondering if I'm going to use the st170 bottom end will I have to forged the pistons an upgrade the conrods?, cheers liam

HaggisTurbo

Not for 300bhp mate as the ST170 already has a stronger bottom end anything more than 350 then you would need to uprate it

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

No, that's the point of using the ST70 bottom end! lol

primedog

iv done my zebec turbo slightly different from this thread but i used a plastic inlet on a silver top head in a mk3 escort and it touches the brake bar that runs out the bulk head from pedel box to the actual servo...... its a focus 2.0 plastic inlet.... anyone else had this issue????
to be fait iv got 245 bhp and running it daily and its not broke/cracked/exploaded just yet so fingers crossed its nothing to be worried about, just wondered if anyone else had same issue and what they thought about it.

studabear

is the mk3 brake bar bigger than mk4

davidfox280585

Mk3 is smaller than mk4, I have s2 setup bar on my s1 for the big servo conversion

Stage6

doing this myself but have a question....

When people say use the 1.3 fiesta box.. what mk fiesta ? - mk1/2/3/4/5 ??? im guessing its the endura engine.

Getboosting

What's the best set of positions to use for a 1.8 zetec black top turbo conversion?

JoshXR2

yes mate i have the same issue. Not done bugger all about it just waiting on borrowed time i guess but having running issues at the moment so not really ragging it about.

studabear

Ka endura (pushrod)

Stage6

i thought so, just wanted to check first, thanks!

just read through this again, do i use the 1.8 waterpump?

studabear

The st170 water pump if following this guide.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

There are a few different plastic 2.0L inlets so maybe the ones you guys are using touch?
I always seem to end up with the earlier manifold with the metal pipe that come from below the TB like these...





What Stu says above is correct.

Stage6

Thanks guys

Would it be fine to use an XR2 radiator with an s2 fan ? Just something i read on a Locust forum thread talking about zetec turbo's .

Getboosting

Will a zetec black top 1.8 head bolt straight onto the st170 block ?

CrOwSoN15

Why not go straight for a 2.0 head? Seems daft choking it up with smaller ports.

Getboosting

Cheers 👍

Getboosting

Hi, will st170 pistons fit a 1800 zetec if bored out to a 2.0? Cheers Liam

Getboosting

Just got my 1800 silver top zetec engine where is the best price to start I'm going a ZT

studabear

In english please?

Failing that read this thread from start to finish many times, most the info required is within, although it doesn't cover using a 1800cc silvertop zetec engine.

TomPengelly

Such a good write up Karlos!

Ive got a mk3 xr2i (1.8 zetec) il be doing this convesion on.

Ive got my shopping list so il start a build thread soon!

As im not doing this in an RST, would you still recommend using an rst exhaust manifold with adaptor plate and T3 as i dont already have them? Was thinking a focus rs log manifold with mabey a gt28 or something? Or would you still go with the cvh manifold route?

Cheers

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Thanks mate!
Yes I would use a FRS manifold and suitable turbo for your target BHP with a custom downpipe or complete exhaust to fit your car.
The manifolds themselves are not very good but for around 300bhp and to save costs they will do.

TomPengelly

Can i use the gearbox out of any pushrod ka? Do they all use the ib5?

Do they all have rod change like an escort / mk3 fiesta? And does the starter locate on the rear?