"RST Recommended Oil's"
#41
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I am running about 200 bhp and since i started to run 10-W50 which i couldn't get from a normal store, so it is for a 4 stroke dirt bike i have problems with my camshaftfollowers that they became noisy.
Switched them for a different set and still noisy. It comes and goes isn't constant the same. I am thinking of switching back to a 10W40 before changing the cam followers again.
It is used for road use a lot and ofcourse with 200 bhp it used well. However i don't do a lot of mileage so i guess the 10W40 should be fine. Hope this solves it however it is strange as so many run a 10W50 without issues!
Switched them for a different set and still noisy. It comes and goes isn't constant the same. I am thinking of switching back to a 10W40 before changing the cam followers again.
It is used for road use a lot and ofcourse with 200 bhp it used well. However i don't do a lot of mileage so i guess the 10W40 should be fine. Hope this solves it however it is strange as so many run a 10W50 without issues!
#42
Advanced PassionFord User
Well I put the 10/50 millers oil in today and the light comes on straight away and only goes off if i give it a touch of the throttle, Car was idling at 850rpm.
I've set the idle at 1000rpm and no pressure light at all. At least during the 5 mins after playing around with the car.
So looking at it 10/40 was better for pressure but 10/50 not so much. Mechanic says other than pressure light the engine is healthy. God know what Halfords recommended years ago as I never had problems using that oil in the car.
Just been playing around again with the car. oil pump is at fault, Mechanic said the spring has seized due to standing around for so long. I've already got an oil pump, so just need booking into a garage to fit. Sod doing that on the ground. New sump gasket and crank seals now ordered.
I've set the idle at 1000rpm and no pressure light at all. At least during the 5 mins after playing around with the car.
So looking at it 10/40 was better for pressure but 10/50 not so much. Mechanic says other than pressure light the engine is healthy. God know what Halfords recommended years ago as I never had problems using that oil in the car.
Just been playing around again with the car. oil pump is at fault, Mechanic said the spring has seized due to standing around for so long. I've already got an oil pump, so just need booking into a garage to fit. Sod doing that on the ground. New sump gasket and crank seals now ordered.
Last edited by RSmark84; 25-09-2014 at 12:27 PM.
#43
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measure oil pressure with a mechanical oil gauge! Not just look at the oil light. These things you can pick up for 40 euro on ebay or maybe less then that. I bought one and one of the best investments i made
The 50 should give you better oil pressure. Thicker oil is better pressure (cold you have more pressure then warm) What brand did you put in?
The 50 should give you better oil pressure. Thicker oil is better pressure (cold you have more pressure then warm) What brand did you put in?
#44
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Hi guys
I need to decide on a new oil for my 200bhp RST 1.6 CVH
I have always used Mobil 1 Motorsport 15w50 without issues but that's now discontinued.
do I replaced with 5w50 or 10w50?
any recommendations on the brand?
Thanks
I need to decide on a new oil for my 200bhp RST 1.6 CVH
I have always used Mobil 1 Motorsport 15w50 without issues but that's now discontinued.
do I replaced with 5w50 or 10w50?
any recommendations on the brand?
Thanks
#45
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Just had a quick google and Halfords are doing a Halfords 5W50 Fully Synthetic Track Day Oil 5L for only £20!! do you think this will be a low grade cheap oil? and not worth the risk?
http://www.halfords.com/motoring-tra...ack-day-oil-5l
http://www.halfords.com/motoring-tra...ack-day-oil-5l
#46
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (4)
I have always used 10W-40 for road rst's and have no complaints. Castrol Edge and Silkolene/Fuchs in 5W-40. All my engines use clearances which are towards the tighter end of Fords tolerance chart and oil pressure has always been good using the above grades.
People use 5W-50 on track as the oil is more viscous when very hot, for the road the 40 is fine.
I personally wouldn't bother with cheap oil as its a false economy, buy good oil and change it every 4000 miles (or less!) on a non standard CVH.
Rob,
People use 5W-50 on track as the oil is more viscous when very hot, for the road the 40 is fine.
I personally wouldn't bother with cheap oil as its a false economy, buy good oil and change it every 4000 miles (or less!) on a non standard CVH.
Rob,
#47
Hi All.
I`m new to the site. Just looking at this thread.
I serviced my car recently and put in 5w30. The tappet sound quietened off a bit which was nice. Then I took it in for mot and the oil light started flickering. We put it down to us having to give the car a good warm up to clear the emissions (which it failed on massively!). Anyway, after reading this thread I think I may have made a boob with my oil choice so my question is:-
Can I use 10w40 semi synthetic or does it have to be fully synthetic? I`ve been looking at fully synthetic oils but found they are for motorbikes.
my car has a mild tune, running a charge cooler and t3 with a chip. engine has standard internals but was told it had a 0.5 over bore done when bottom end was built before I bought it. would this make any difference to the oil grade?
Cheers
Toby.
I`m new to the site. Just looking at this thread.
I serviced my car recently and put in 5w30. The tappet sound quietened off a bit which was nice. Then I took it in for mot and the oil light started flickering. We put it down to us having to give the car a good warm up to clear the emissions (which it failed on massively!). Anyway, after reading this thread I think I may have made a boob with my oil choice so my question is:-
Can I use 10w40 semi synthetic or does it have to be fully synthetic? I`ve been looking at fully synthetic oils but found they are for motorbikes.
my car has a mild tune, running a charge cooler and t3 with a chip. engine has standard internals but was told it had a 0.5 over bore done when bottom end was built before I bought it. would this make any difference to the oil grade?
Cheers
Toby.
#48
i only know that with my 10W60 castrol RS oïl i had good oïl pressure at idle like 1bar
and know with my Motul 300v 15W50 my oïl pressure is down at idle like 0.2 bar
with hot engine of curse
and know with my Motul 300v 15W50 my oïl pressure is down at idle like 0.2 bar
with hot engine of curse
#49
Always a pleasure!
Hi All.
I`m new to the site. Just looking at this thread.
I serviced my car recently and put in 5w30. The tappet sound quietened off a bit which was nice. Then I took it in for mot and the oil light started flickering. We put it down to us having to give the car a good warm up to clear the emissions (which it failed on massively!). Anyway, after reading this thread I think I may have made a boob with my oil choice so my question is:-
Can I use 10w40 semi synthetic or does it have to be fully synthetic? I`ve been looking at fully synthetic oils but found they are for motorbikes.
my car has a mild tune, running a charge cooler and t3 with a chip. engine has standard internals but was told it had a 0.5 over bore done when bottom end was built before I bought it. would this make any difference to the oil grade?
Cheers
Toby.
I`m new to the site. Just looking at this thread.
I serviced my car recently and put in 5w30. The tappet sound quietened off a bit which was nice. Then I took it in for mot and the oil light started flickering. We put it down to us having to give the car a good warm up to clear the emissions (which it failed on massively!). Anyway, after reading this thread I think I may have made a boob with my oil choice so my question is:-
Can I use 10w40 semi synthetic or does it have to be fully synthetic? I`ve been looking at fully synthetic oils but found they are for motorbikes.
my car has a mild tune, running a charge cooler and t3 with a chip. engine has standard internals but was told it had a 0.5 over bore done when bottom end was built before I bought it. would this make any difference to the oil grade?
Cheers
Toby.
The oil light came on because it was so thin once up to temperature and your pressure dropped... not a good thing to do.
60 is thicker at 100c so you will of course see higher oil pressure, but if it is that low (0.2bar) using a 50 then I would say you have low oil pressure and it needs looking into.
#50
I put a new sump on this weekend and a new oil pressure switch. I used 10w40 semi. The oil light didn't`t even flicker even when I was setting the emissions down for the mot.
I don`t drive the car hard at all, in fact it barely comes out to play these days. I start it up often enough just to lubricate the engine but sadly it doesn't`t see tarmac as often as I`d like.
I`ve since found out the engine is standard (bore, internals) and the clocks say 150k.
Maybe someone can help me while I`m here. My car doesn't`t like to go above 4000rpm. I have a video of me doing nearly 100mph at 10psi(ish) boost at 4000rpm. It just wouldn't`t go higher. I`ve tried to think of problem areas (worn cam maybe, Throttle/sensor, ecu). Has anybody heard of this issue? Any ideas?
cheers
Toby
I don`t drive the car hard at all, in fact it barely comes out to play these days. I start it up often enough just to lubricate the engine but sadly it doesn't`t see tarmac as often as I`d like.
I`ve since found out the engine is standard (bore, internals) and the clocks say 150k.
Maybe someone can help me while I`m here. My car doesn't`t like to go above 4000rpm. I have a video of me doing nearly 100mph at 10psi(ish) boost at 4000rpm. It just wouldn't`t go higher. I`ve tried to think of problem areas (worn cam maybe, Throttle/sensor, ecu). Has anybody heard of this issue? Any ideas?
cheers
Toby
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