Red_bull

I still need a inlet manifold multiplug loom, but these are only from a fiesta rst isn't it?

Do i need to add bits into my order for a megasquirt ECU or can i order a loss Megasquirt 2 PCB3 unassembled kit? Or do i need extra stuff?

Do i need something to fix a 2nd ignition coil driver?

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...-kit-p-59.html

If i can order this and i have everything then i'm going to order this, so i have it over a few weeks here

Thanks in forward!

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I think everything is there although it does not come with a loom so you would have make that yourself.
Also I think any EFI Fiesta or Escort has the manifold multiplug loom, although I am not 100%

Red_bull

i will take a nice one from the breakers then...

But if i understand you right i don't have to solder anything to hook up a second ignition driver? I really thought i had to change something on the board!

Also without running a EDIS do i need a cam position or only crankshaft?

Sorry if i ask things dubble but my english isn't the best so sometimes it's difficult to follow the answers

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

That kit you linked me to everything needs soldering you do know?
But yes it includes coil pack drivers......

MS230-K Kit Bill Of Materials (BOM) Includes:

• All 'Basic Components'
• PWM Flyback Damping Circuit components
• Hall Sensor/Coil(-) and VR Sensor Ignition Trigger Components
• IGBT High Current Ignition Driver Components
• Current Limiting Circuit Components

Yes only CPS not Cam position sensor.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

you can't just get a map fella, even a map off a similar setup won't guarantee it'll even start.
drop your spec down and i'm sure something could be knocked up to get it started at least.
*edit* to point to alex earlier.

Alex_86

iTrader: (2)

lol fully aware of that, just want a new one to work out from

Red_bull

Yes i know it's a unassembled kit, but i thought i had to buy extra components and that there was only one driver std in the kit.

I think i'll just buy and find out!

Red_bull

Can anyone confirm this or can i only use the engine loom of a FRST?

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

you'll need the loom from a frst, or a zetec i think as they use the same connectors for most of if not all of the sensors.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

If the XR3i and XR2i's have an ACT sensor then you can use any efi inlet loom 100%, i'm just not sure if they do?!
Zetec does look very simliar from this pic and you can see the ACT sensor, although I cant see a CTS plug...

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

2i's and 3i's have an act sensor pal, i'm using one of them, although the sensor is different to the frst one and has a different resistance and a different type of plug, similar to the act one above actually
i'm sure the zetec cts sensor is on the thermostat housing, not certain though.

Red_bull

I think i'll just wait till i get the FRST inlet so i know what i need for connectors and then i'm going to collect all the bits and if that's to difficult i take a FRST wiring loom

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

if you do that, then pull out the engine bit of the loom and just cut ot off the rest, it's basically the wiring harness on the inlet nad the cps wire and coil plug, the rest isn't needed.

Red_bull

ok tnx!

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Hiya Karlos, I am just starting my build and should have a v3 ms2 next week. Any chance i could tea leaf your map off you? also how hard was it to directly run the zetec coil?

Cheers fella

Rob,

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yes mate no probs!
You will still need to calibrate your TPS, and temp sensors (Coolant, ACT) the settings for standard Ford items are on the first page of this thread as none of that is stored in the map file, but other than that it should get you up and running! Funnily enough I used it on someone elses RS today and that fired up with no probs at all we were really pleased, and i've got another one to do next weekend!
Running the coil pack is a piece of piss, only two wires to run from the ECU!

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

Karl, i don't suppose you've got issues with overcorrecting MAT correction (gamma enrichments) do you?
i know you're running 2.0.1(IIRC) and i'm using 2.1.1 extra code.
and i find that if i turn all enrichments to off, then the mixture leans out too much as things get hotter, i.e. the MAT temps.
pain in the arse to mess around with mat correction tables doh.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yes I am on 2.0.1 extra, but no I dont have any probs with leaning out so do not use MAT correction.
What sort of temps are you seeing then? I never see above about 36degrees (ambient 25degrees) in the peak of summer at full load WOT.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

well it goes upto 50degrees when standing for a long time.
not seen over 28degrees when on throttle.
i disabled my warmup enrichments to test a few things and that just made it really lean as i'd expect, but my engine runs about 75 degrees when moving, but gets up to 100 when standing for a bit.
and i noticed that with no MAT correction and a good steady idle, whilst idling, the mixture started to lean out from 14.9AFR to 16+.
the coolant temp doesn't seem to make much difference to this, only seems to be the MAT correction built into the code that seems to make it a bit too lean.
on the efi extra forum it's been suggested the MAT correction is over correcting, but i don't understand why this is affecting my running and i've not seen another post about it for anyone else.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Cheers Karlos, i know quite a bit of the theory behind it, but have never owned/setup/fitted one so know bollocks all about the practical side. Once i have the kit im sure i will bug you some more (if thats okay).....

Cheers mate

Rob,

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Those ACT's are fine, it is odd how it leans out..... Although 14.9 is too lean to begin with (Stoich is 14.7), and mine would not idle steady unless it's around 13 IIRC!
Have you checked your fuel pump voltage at idle, could be dropping off compared to higher RPM's? Leaving you lean.

Yes mate always happy to help if I can
One word of advice I will give is to follow the diagrams/instructions to the letter, triple check everything, and if your not sure about something ask/find out dont guess! lol

JesseT

You need to change your MAT correction to milder in the top of the temperature scale. The standard correction is based on physics, but if you have sensor heat soak issues, this will tend to overcorrect.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

no major heatsoak, maybe a couple of degrees as i have an R&B act sensor in the charge carrier and is only a couple of degrees out.
how do you change the correction to milder?
i know the agression setting runs from 50%-150% but if i drop the setting down it doesn't do enough when hot and seems to lean the bottom end a touch.
i'm guessing it's going to be down to the MAT correction table more than anything.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

there is new development in the new firmware where it looks up clt and mat values and alters the correction a bit to help with heat soak, so when that's out, then it'll be better.
for now i've had to use EGO correction to sort out the fluctuations a bit, which i didn't want to do as i run datalogs on most runs to get economy up and better fuelling throughout.
one question though, i'm using an erst MAT sensor and i'm aware the FRST ones are slightly different, is this due to heat soak possibly?

Antti O

Karlos, my setup idles nice with 14.2 afr / 950rpm.
I believe with stock camshaft it will idle even better.

Rick

My 1600 used to idle in the 15's on a set of Greys...

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

mine idles at 15.0-15.1:1 AFR very nice, just heatsoak to MAT sensor that is causing it to lean out due to over correcting firmware.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Injectors are VXR 480cc ones (dont know the flow rates of your greys Rick to compare?).
hmm... would that fact that I was low comp (7.5:1) mean I needed to be a bit richer maybe?
In fact no thats not it because a friend of mine is running standard CR on MS2 with VXR injectors and his has to idle at a similar AFR to me! Maybe it's the injectors then?

Rick

Project_rs runs your injectors, I can't remember what I set the idle AFR to on his base map, it was probably in the 13's so we'll see when i finish it. My Grey's were over 600cc. To be honest it's not an issue to be in the 13's on idle, you'll often need to be if you are on a wild cam.

Rick

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I run the Newmans off the shelf RST cam, and my mate runs a CVH34, we both get a crap idle if the AFR is over about 13..... maybe the idle screw just needs turning up a bit?! lol

Rick

Well a leaner mixture will need more air that's for sure, but if you're not running closed loop idle speed control you may find that a lean mixture is suceptable to stalling the engine.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yeah i'm running closed loop so i'll have a play when my new engine is built up, my mate doesnt have a ICV at all.

Cheers Rick!

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Karlos, do your injectors spray onto the back of the inlet valve with your spacer? just wondering if people with efi heads are getting better fuel atomisation etc squirting on or nearer the inlet valve and not the port? this may help with running leaner mixture at idle?

Rob,

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I dont think so but have not looked, sure they just spray down into the flow of passing air.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Could be mate, i haven't had a good look yet, just a thought.

Rob,

Rick

Mine was an Mfi head, it drove nicely.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Cool, well in that case......... i haven't bought a head yet, where do people get the spacer plate? seems efi heads are few and far between

Rob,

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Got mine from ebay Rob.

Antti O

I have ported efi head and no any problems. Closed loop idle works pretty fine. My injectors are 380cc bosch ev-6. Altough i have std. efi fuel rail pressure so my injectors are 98% usage when driving full throttle.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

You cant remember the seller can you Karlos? just had a look and can't see any thing. Hows your engine coming along mate?

Rob,