Oil for Erst
#1
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Oil for Erst
I know its been done 9million times...
But
I was wondering what oil I should use, its pretty tappety, I reckon need to change cam n tappets (got spare new cam an tappets jus need to change em) but what oil should I use meanwhile, I think the oil ive got in it is too thin once it warms up, cant remember what viscocity but its fully synth castrol stuff iirc
I was told 15-50 mobil 1? dont need anything too fancy tho.
But
I was wondering what oil I should use, its pretty tappety, I reckon need to change cam n tappets (got spare new cam an tappets jus need to change em) but what oil should I use meanwhile, I think the oil ive got in it is too thin once it warms up, cant remember what viscocity but its fully synth castrol stuff iirc
I was told 15-50 mobil 1? dont need anything too fancy tho.
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If its tapping theres nothing you can do, using a thicker oil will mask the sound but i wouldnt recommend it!
Just grin and bear it until you can change it, and use what you intend to run long term, you wont sacrifice anything else then.
Just grin and bear it until you can change it, and use what you intend to run long term, you wont sacrifice anything else then.
#7
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I dunno if its tapping cos the oil's too thin or not tho, It seems very thin when hot....so was wanting to know what oils best jus so I can change it and eliminate that. I do reckon it needs a new cam an tappets tho, Ive got spares and am 70% sure its a brand new cam an tappets in my spare head so need to check that.
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Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
I dunno if its tapping cos the oil's too thin or not tho, It seems very thin when hot....so was wanting to know what oils best jus so I can change it and eliminate that. I do reckon it needs a new cam an tappets tho, Ive got spares and am 70% sure its a brand new cam an tappets in my spare head so need to check that.
#10
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SILKOLENE PRO S 10/50 if I were you.
I used to use CASTROL RS 10/60 but way too noisy, as was breaking down easy, pro s no problems, although try to use SUNOCO RACING when I can get it.
tabetha
I used to use CASTROL RS 10/60 but way too noisy, as was breaking down easy, pro s no problems, although try to use SUNOCO RACING when I can get it.
tabetha
#11
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Originally Posted by tabetha
SILKOLENE PRO S 10/50 if I were you.
I used to use CASTROL RS 10/60 but way too noisy, as was breaking down easy, pro s no problems, although try to use SUNOCO RACING when I can get it.
tabetha
I used to use CASTROL RS 10/60 but way too noisy, as was breaking down easy, pro s no problems, although try to use SUNOCO RACING when I can get it.
tabetha
#13
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so its a toss up between:
15/50 mobile 1
SILKOLENE PRO S 10/50
Millers 10W60
Correct yes, BUT if the oil is too thin, then it does make the tappets 'tappety'
15/50 mobile 1
SILKOLENE PRO S 10/50
Millers 10W60
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Tapping shows that something has worn past tolerance, oil is there to lubricate, NOT sound deaden
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Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
so its a toss up between:
15/50 mobile 1
SILKOLENE PRO S 10/50
Millers 10W60
Correct yes, BUT if the oil is too thin, then it does make the tappets 'tappety'
15/50 mobile 1
SILKOLENE PRO S 10/50
Millers 10W60
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Tapping shows that something has worn past tolerance, oil is there to lubricate, NOT sound deaden
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Originally Posted by PeterRST
Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
so its a toss up between:
15/50 mobile 1
SILKOLENE PRO S 10/50
Millers 10W60
Correct yes, BUT if the oil is too thin, then it does make the tappets 'tappety'
15/50 mobile 1
SILKOLENE PRO S 10/50
Millers 10W60
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Tapping shows that something has worn past tolerance, oil is there to lubricate, NOT sound deaden
tapping indicates wear
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Fully synthetic oils offer very little advantages over mineral oils and semi synths, other than they last a bit longer. I used to believe all the marketing hype surrounding oils, but its like most other things. It really comes down to how often you change it.
FOr an RS turbo, anything above 10-40 will be fine. I would just get some cheap 20-50 if I was you. Asda do some own brand stuff for less than a fiver. get that and change it every three months or 3k miles. It'll be spot on.
FOr an RS turbo, anything above 10-40 will be fine. I would just get some cheap 20-50 if I was you. Asda do some own brand stuff for less than a fiver. get that and change it every three months or 3k miles. It'll be spot on.
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Originally Posted by vroomtshh
Fully synthetic oils offer very little advantages over mineral oils and semi synths, other than they last a bit longer. I used to believe all the marketing hype surrounding oils, but its like most other things. It really comes down to how often you change it.
FOr an RS turbo, anything above 10-40 will be fine. I would just get some cheap 20-50 if I was you. Asda do some own brand stuff for less than a fiver. get that and change it every three months or 3k miles. It'll be spot on.
FOr an RS turbo, anything above 10-40 will be fine. I would just get some cheap 20-50 if I was you. Asda do some own brand stuff for less than a fiver. get that and change it every three months or 3k miles. It'll be spot on.
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Originally Posted by vroomtshh
Fully synthetic oils offer very little advantages over mineral oils and semi synths, other than they last a bit longer. I used to believe all the marketing hype surrounding oils, but its like most other things. It really comes down to how often you change it.
FOr an RS turbo, anything above 10-40 will be fine. I would just get some cheap 20-50 if I was you. Asda do some own brand stuff for less than a fiver. get that and change it every three months or 3k miles. It'll be spot on.
FOr an RS turbo, anything above 10-40 will be fine. I would just get some cheap 20-50 if I was you. Asda do some own brand stuff for less than a fiver. get that and change it every three months or 3k miles. It'll be spot on.
that cheap oil from asda is shit for a turbo charged engine the turbo will cook it instantly fully synthetic is superior in every way
Madrod with the 200 mph cosworth sent a load of oil away to be tested at a lab and the SILKOLENE PRO S came out top in every test
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Originally Posted by G2RSR
Originally Posted by vroomtshh
Fully synthetic oils offer very little advantages over mineral oils and semi synths, other than they last a bit longer. I used to believe all the marketing hype surrounding oils, but its like most other things. It really comes down to how often you change it.
FOr an RS turbo, anything above 10-40 will be fine. I would just get some cheap 20-50 if I was you. Asda do some own brand stuff for less than a fiver. get that and change it every three months or 3k miles. It'll be spot on.
FOr an RS turbo, anything above 10-40 will be fine. I would just get some cheap 20-50 if I was you. Asda do some own brand stuff for less than a fiver. get that and change it every three months or 3k miles. It'll be spot on.
that cheap oil from asda is shit for a turbo charged engine the turbo will cook it instantly fully synthetic is superior in every way
Madrod with the 200 mph cosworth sent a load of oil away to be tested at a lab and the SILKOLENE PRO S came out top in every test
The comment above sums it up. Everyone 'in the know' will tear it out of me. Thats because this is an internet orum, where there are probably around 10 people who are truly in the know, and a couple of million who thin kthey are in the know, because they have read a load of marketing blurb
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The reason i say "people in the know" is because i know the best part of fuck all about oils, but i know enough to know asda mineral oil is not on a parr with a fully synthetic oil..........
If i did know what i was on about with regards to oils i would quite happily pull you apart myself
If i did know what i was on about with regards to oils i would quite happily pull you apart myself
#25
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i use the millers 10/60 in mine and have had no problems with it and i've got a oil temp and pressure guage and even in traffic it holds together nicely.
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Well Davvy........do you honestly think if Asda £4.99 heapo cheapo oil was the shit to run that people such as the Oil Man would be able to make a living...........
#29
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http://www.acdelco.com/worldwide/eng...d_sae10w40.htm
Any good?
Got this stuff, AC delco 10W-40 semi synthetic £5.70 for 5 litres on special at ford...and a fram oil filter for £3 at my motor factors cheepskate if the oils shite, i'll jus get some good stuff it needs changed anyway and i'd only be losing the fiver for the AC delco stuff I put in
Any good?
Got this stuff, AC delco 10W-40 semi synthetic £5.70 for 5 litres on special at ford...and a fram oil filter for £3 at my motor factors cheepskate if the oils shite, i'll jus get some good stuff it needs changed anyway and i'd only be losing the fiver for the AC delco stuff I put in
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i pay £1.50 for Fram filters
I am almost 100% sure you coulda got a Motorcraft one for that
And just because its £9.99 on eBay and some dumb fuck pays that, doesn't mean they aren't cheaper from Ford...........
I am almost 100% sure you coulda got a Motorcraft one for that
And just because its £9.99 on eBay and some dumb fuck pays that, doesn't mean they aren't cheaper from Ford...........
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Fuck all, i get it free.
mobil 1 10w40 Semi is what i have been using, but seeing as Renault now keep fully synthetic oils in stock for the new engines, i can getty fully synthetic for free aswell
So
Anyway.......i suppose i shouldnt knock you paying £3 for an oil filter, im actually amazed you forked out that much for it, we all know what a tight cunt you are
mobil 1 10w40 Semi is what i have been using, but seeing as Renault now keep fully synthetic oils in stock for the new engines, i can getty fully synthetic for free aswell
So
Anyway.......i suppose i shouldnt knock you paying £3 for an oil filter, im actually amazed you forked out that much for it, we all know what a tight cunt you are
#35
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Well consider this,-
We bought 2 e220 cdi's brand new in 2000 and myself and my partner decided to conduct a (not very scientific) test......
W934 was serviced according to Merc's specs with jolly old Shell helix
and lasted 220K then died.
W935 on the other hand was retired earlier this year having been around
the planet 18 times (450K). We only got rid of it because it's no good
running a 7 year old vehicle at a Chauffeur Co.
The only difference between the 2 was W935 was run exclusively on
Mobil 1 and topped up with slick 50 every 50k.
We bought 2 e220 cdi's brand new in 2000 and myself and my partner decided to conduct a (not very scientific) test......
W934 was serviced according to Merc's specs with jolly old Shell helix
and lasted 220K then died.
W935 on the other hand was retired earlier this year having been around
the planet 18 times (450K). We only got rid of it because it's no good
running a 7 year old vehicle at a Chauffeur Co.
The only difference between the 2 was W935 was run exclusively on
Mobil 1 and topped up with slick 50 every 50k.
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Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
Well consider this,-
We bought 2 e220 cdi's brand new in 2000 and myself and my partner decided to conduct a (not very scientific) test......
W934 was serviced according to Merc's specs with jolly old Shell helix
and lasted 220K then died.
W935 on the other hand was retired earlier this year having been around
the planet 18 times (450K). We only got rid of it because it's no good
running a 7 year old vehicle at a Chauffeur Co.
The only difference between the 2 was W935 was run exclusively on
Mobil 1 and topped up with slick 50 every 50k.
We bought 2 e220 cdi's brand new in 2000 and myself and my partner decided to conduct a (not very scientific) test......
W934 was serviced according to Merc's specs with jolly old Shell helix
and lasted 220K then died.
W935 on the other hand was retired earlier this year having been around
the planet 18 times (450K). We only got rid of it because it's no good
running a 7 year old vehicle at a Chauffeur Co.
The only difference between the 2 was W935 was run exclusively on
Mobil 1 and topped up with slick 50 every 50k.
The Mobil 1 was still changed at the recommended intervals and not more frequent?
#37
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Originally Posted by Marc LJX
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
Well consider this,-
We bought 2 e220 cdi's brand new in 2000 and myself and my partner decided to conduct a (not very scientific) test......
W934 was serviced according to Merc's specs with jolly old Shell helix
and lasted 220K then died.
W935 on the other hand was retired earlier this year having been around
the planet 18 times (450K). We only got rid of it because it's no good
running a 7 year old vehicle at a Chauffeur Co.
The only difference between the 2 was W935 was run exclusively on
Mobil 1 and topped up with slick 50 every 50k.
We bought 2 e220 cdi's brand new in 2000 and myself and my partner decided to conduct a (not very scientific) test......
W934 was serviced according to Merc's specs with jolly old Shell helix
and lasted 220K then died.
W935 on the other hand was retired earlier this year having been around
the planet 18 times (450K). We only got rid of it because it's no good
running a 7 year old vehicle at a Chauffeur Co.
The only difference between the 2 was W935 was run exclusively on
Mobil 1 and topped up with slick 50 every 50k.
The Mobil 1 was still changed at the recommended intervals and not more frequent?
But bear in mind even the 'old' w210 shape had ASST ie a variable
service indicator which when reset shows '9230 miles to next service' but depending on useage,the No of switch on/offs, stop start/motorway driving this does alter slightly.
But typically we'd get 9/11k between oil changes.
#38
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Valvoline 15/50w turbo V or the motorsport stuff!! £15.99 for 5 litres from most motor factors and boost a bigger oil pressure than mobil 1 and alot cheaper! for oil filters motorcraft are the cheapest the best to use standard stuff!! Mr frd isn't always a rip-off