streetdragster

Hi,

I'm looking to remove the ABS module and all the belt soff a 1990 H Plate Series Two Escort RS Turbo, can anyone advise me as to whats involved with the brake piping? I.E Do you just join the brake pipes together, block them off or do something else? Any modifications need doing to the cars electrics? Such as to make the ABS dashboard light stay permanentely off (without taking the bulb out )

Thanks In Advance

Matt

BODGE

i've just ripped my ABS off my S2, didn't take to long but i have got the car on stands at the mo, the drivers side module and mounting plate is not to bad just undo the bolts that go in to the gear box, remember to put them back
its the pass side with the short shaft thats the 5HIT no room and hard to get to the mounting plate bolts, is alot easyer to pop the shaft to get it all off
as for pipes you will see there is another mount for the 4 pipes at the bottom of the bulk head, look for the pipe for each side that goes to a T piece on the inner wings, and form the mount for the 4 pipes follow it back to the master cylinder, then you just make up new pipes and go from master C to the T piece

you will need an XR3i fluid reservoir, or blank off the 2 plaky pipe on your one

hope this helps

cheeRS mark

streetdragster

Thanks very much mate, thats a great help, gearbox is currently off at the moment for a clutch change

Thanks

Matt

John Laverick

I wrote this ages ago, might be of help

First thing is to go down your local scrappy and find an old XR3i, now pull the plastic reservoir off, its just held in with rubber seals so just give it a good pull. You don’t need the whole master cylinder assembly, just the reservoir. You could just block the holes off but for the price (mine was free but I wouldn’t pay more than a fiver) this is the simplest and neatest method.

Once home drain the whole system, it did this by using an easi-bleed with no fluid in it to blow all the old crappy fluid out. Now rip your old one off and push fit the new one in, it is quite a tight fit so it might take quite a bit of pressure but it does fit.

Next stage is to remove all the pumps and associated pipes, I did this with no engine in so it was relatively easy. Whether it can be done with the engine in I don’t now. Although you could just bypass them and leave it to a later date to get rid.

The next stage is to reconnect everything up, I used new copper pipes made up at a local motor factors which cost a grand total of Ł3.50. Usually the pipe runs out of the master cylinder into the ABS pump then to either of the T-piece’s located on each inner wing, then to each corner of the car. All you need to do is get two lengths made up with the appropriate fittings on and run them from the master cylinder round to the appropriate T-piece. (I’ll have a look when I get chance and tell you exactly which one goes to which). If you have a look in the Haynes Manual to the ABS layout diagram it becomes very obvious what needs connecting up to what, don’t be afraid of it as it’s very, very easy to figure out.

Once everything’s connected back up nice and tight bleed the brakes. I haven’t had any problems since doing mine and the bias feels fine. The brakes themselves also feel much nicer, a lot more like a newer car rather than really vague.

P.s. its also a lot quicker and much easier to change gearboxes without it. I was quoted Ł25+VAT fitting without ABS, Ł75 + VAT with ABS.

streetdragster

Thanks very much!

Matt

Anonymous

im thinking ov doing mine so thanks 4 the info lads

BODGE

with the box out m8 it will be easy

like i said before with it all in its just the short shaft which is the 5hit side to do but once your in rip out mode its not to bad lol

mark