Fuel Pump rewire.
03-10-2008, 07:45 AM
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Fuel Pump rewire.
Carrying on from the thread about fuel pumps, does anyone have a list of parts & a wiring diagram to show how to rig the whole thing up ? Might help those who need to do this in the future.
Cheers.
Cheers.
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05-10-2008, 08:36 AM
#8
DON'T use the chassis for earth, this misses the whole point of eliminating bad connections, take straight from battery so you have less power sapping connection points.
Despite what is shown the relay is NOT a spdt, it is a changeover relay which will do the job no problem, but a single pole single throw spst is more normal and found a bit easier,
polevolt.co.uk or vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk
The one MAJOR mistake above is the cable size, if you want to start the QE2 fne but massive overkill for this, if a fault should develope between cable and fuse it WILL torch your car, this 10mm2 cable carries 70 amps continuously is around Ł1.40 a metre but a std cable of either 44/030 3mm2 will carry 27.5 maps over double what the pump can use is plenty big enough and less than 1/3 the price, either that or thinwall 28/030 2mm2cable for 25 amps.
tabetha
tabetha
Despite what is shown the relay is NOT a spdt, it is a changeover relay which will do the job no problem, but a single pole single throw spst is more normal and found a bit easier,
polevolt.co.uk or vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk
The one MAJOR mistake above is the cable size, if you want to start the QE2 fne but massive overkill for this, if a fault should develope between cable and fuse it WILL torch your car, this 10mm2 cable carries 70 amps continuously is around Ł1.40 a metre but a std cable of either 44/030 3mm2 will carry 27.5 maps over double what the pump can use is plenty big enough and less than 1/3 the price, either that or thinwall 28/030 2mm2cable for 25 amps.
tabetha
tabetha
05-10-2008, 03:54 PM
#13
The point I am making is why use massive cable that carries vastly more current and costs vastly more than is needed, when what I have suggested is more than adequate.
Yes the cable I have suggested is more than capable of torching your car, but as it can carry a lot less current if it does say rub through somewhere it is less likely to, personally I favour thinwall, as it is MUCH more resistant to abrasion or even type 44 cable which is aero industry stuff, same as we use on the ecu looms, and the new fan looms/fuel pump looms.
The stuff from maplins is fine at 30A.
The diagram shows the original fuel pump feed AFTER passing through switch which is always the best bet, not needed with aftermarket ecu as these cut the fuel circuit as soon as cps signal(engine) stops anyway.
tabetha
Yes the cable I have suggested is more than capable of torching your car, but as it can carry a lot less current if it does say rub through somewhere it is less likely to, personally I favour thinwall, as it is MUCH more resistant to abrasion or even type 44 cable which is aero industry stuff, same as we use on the ecu looms, and the new fan looms/fuel pump looms.
The stuff from maplins is fine at 30A.
The diagram shows the original fuel pump feed AFTER passing through switch which is always the best bet, not needed with aftermarket ecu as these cut the fuel circuit as soon as cps signal(engine) stops anyway.
tabetha
05-10-2008, 07:09 PM
#14
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
The point I am making is why use massive cable that carries vastly more current and costs vastly more than is needed, when what I have suggested is more than adequate.
Yes the cable I have suggested is more than capable of torching your car, but as it can carry a lot less current if it does say rub through somewhere it is less likely to, personally I favour thinwall, as it is MUCH more resistant to abrasion or even type 44 cable which is aero industry stuff, same as we use on the ecu looms, and the new fan looms/fuel pump looms.
The stuff from maplins is fine at 30A.
The diagram shows the original fuel pump feed AFTER passing through switch which is always the best bet, not needed with aftermarket ecu as these cut the fuel circuit as soon as cps signal(engine) stops anyway.
tabetha
Yes the cable I have suggested is more than capable of torching your car, but as it can carry a lot less current if it does say rub through somewhere it is less likely to, personally I favour thinwall, as it is MUCH more resistant to abrasion or even type 44 cable which is aero industry stuff, same as we use on the ecu looms, and the new fan looms/fuel pump looms.
The stuff from maplins is fine at 30A.
The diagram shows the original fuel pump feed AFTER passing through switch which is always the best bet, not needed with aftermarket ecu as these cut the fuel circuit as soon as cps signal(engine) stops anyway.
tabetha
cheers tabetha
06-10-2008, 03:17 PM
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06-10-2008, 03:45 PM
#17
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Mines a one off loom, running 2 x 2wd pumps and 1 x intank pump, he does different looms for different budgets so best to PM him:
https://passionford.com/forum/member...oster&t=249300
https://passionford.com/forum/member...oster&t=249300
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