escos st head gasket.
#1
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escos st head gasket.
hi all.
my headgasket is leaking and im thinking of doing it myself.
just wondering if someone out there has a how to guide or helpful tips or advice on how to go about it.
will i need any special tools etc?
any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!!
my headgasket is leaking and im thinking of doing it myself.
just wondering if someone out there has a how to guide or helpful tips or advice on how to go about it.
will i need any special tools etc?
any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!!
#2
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hi, you need the workshop manuals mate(especialy if its your first!!!)-go to e bay or e mail me glyn.williams3@ntlworld.com
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Originally Posted by cossymad
You'll need 'crows foot ' spanners to remove and refit the 4 bolts on the turbo, other than that, normal tools will suffice
#5
Hi Mate
Doing mine at the moment deffo get a manual!!!
Its not to bad a job
Un bolt the three bolts on the down pipe
Un do nut by LHS engine mount to inlet manifold and remove all vac pipes
and wiring etc and cambelt and water / oil pipes .Basicaly anthing that looks like it is attached to the head.
Un do all head bolts in sequence and remove all turbo, inlet manifold and head together. Best with engine hoist.!!
Been told the head was fine but the guides are worn and need replacing so thats the next job along with a good clean up.
All ready got the thermostat and inlet mainfold power coated
Just got to get on with the rest.
Good luck
So far the only specialist tools needed is a T55 Torx socket suitable to remove head bolts. Dont bother spending too much cos it will get knackered.
Cheers
PAULCR
Doing mine at the moment deffo get a manual!!!
Its not to bad a job
Un bolt the three bolts on the down pipe
Un do nut by LHS engine mount to inlet manifold and remove all vac pipes
and wiring etc and cambelt and water / oil pipes .Basicaly anthing that looks like it is attached to the head.
Un do all head bolts in sequence and remove all turbo, inlet manifold and head together. Best with engine hoist.!!
Been told the head was fine but the guides are worn and need replacing so thats the next job along with a good clean up.
All ready got the thermostat and inlet mainfold power coated
Just got to get on with the rest.
Good luck
So far the only specialist tools needed is a T55 Torx socket suitable to remove head bolts. Dont bother spending too much cos it will get knackered.
Cheers
PAULCR
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Originally Posted by redrsmk5
Originally Posted by cossymad
You'll need 'crows foot ' spanners to remove and refit the 4 bolts on the turbo, other than that, normal tools will suffice
#7
Get head checked for valve/guide wear as this is very very common, especially ex valves.
Get head checked for trueness as it will almost defo need a skim.
Put on a group a(YBO611) h/gasket unless running over 400bhp.
Use ARP studs, cometic inlet gaskets, sealant on the half moons, might as well put new belt/tensioner on at same time, pulleys can be a royal pain in the rump to get off though.
Take your time and if not sure get help, as they can wreck like any other engine but cost a lot more!!
tabetha
Get head checked for trueness as it will almost defo need a skim.
Put on a group a(YBO611) h/gasket unless running over 400bhp.
Use ARP studs, cometic inlet gaskets, sealant on the half moons, might as well put new belt/tensioner on at same time, pulleys can be a royal pain in the rump to get off though.
Take your time and if not sure get help, as they can wreck like any other engine but cost a lot more!!
tabetha
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#8
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thanks for all the replys!
i have the workshop manual,been reading up on it and as you all said it doesn't look too bad a job.
the main thing which is putting me off is the timing when it all goes back together as i've never done a cam belt before.
i know on cossies mistakes can be very costly!!
just out of interest,how much would it cost to have it done by a specialist??
i have the workshop manual,been reading up on it and as you all said it doesn't look too bad a job.
the main thing which is putting me off is the timing when it all goes back together as i've never done a cam belt before.
i know on cossies mistakes can be very costly!!
just out of interest,how much would it cost to have it done by a specialist??
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Originally Posted by tabetha
Get head checked for valve/guide wear as this is very very common, especially ex valves.
Get head checked for trueness as it will almost defo need a skim.
Put on a group a(YBO611) h/gasket unless running over 400bhp.
Use ARP studs, cometic inlet gaskets, sealant on the half moons, might as well put new belt/tensioner on at same time, pulleys can be a royal pain in the rump to get off though.
Take your time and if not sure get help, as they can wreck like any other engine but cost a lot more!!
tabetha
Get head checked for trueness as it will almost defo need a skim.
Put on a group a(YBO611) h/gasket unless running over 400bhp.
Use ARP studs, cometic inlet gaskets, sealant on the half moons, might as well put new belt/tensioner on at same time, pulleys can be a royal pain in the rump to get off though.
Take your time and if not sure get help, as they can wreck like any other engine but cost a lot more!!
tabetha
NO NO NO , ARP kits are wank and just crack blocks, if you want to do the job PROPERLY get the block long-studded, only a bit more £££, and 1000 times better. Agree with everything else you say there mate - Bottom Pully pullers are £30 off Ebay- worth every penny
#10
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NO NO NO , ARP kits are wank and just crack blocks, if you want to do the job PROPERLY get the block long-studded, only a bit more £££, and 1000 times better. Agree with everything else you say there mate - Bottom Pully pullers are £30 off Ebay- worth every penny [/quote]
right,i'm guessing that to long stud the block it needs to be removed to have machining done??
are the ARP studs really that bad? never heard anyone slate them before.
right,i'm guessing that to long stud the block it needs to be removed to have machining done??
are the ARP studs really that bad? never heard anyone slate them before.
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Yes block has to be removed, unless you are going well over 400BHP then i would stick with GENUINE cossie heaadbolts
Personally I would never use ARP studs as they offer no extra clamping force anyway, and cost half of a proper job and four times as much as the STD head bolts
How many miles has the car done? if its due a rebuild anyway it might be worth doing it all in one go
Personally I would never use ARP studs as they offer no extra clamping force anyway, and cost half of a proper job and four times as much as the STD head bolts
How many miles has the car done? if its due a rebuild anyway it might be worth doing it all in one go
#12
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the car has done 59k.
i dont think it needs a total rebuild but i maybe wrong.
the only problems i have with it is its losing water but not much. its going from max to min on the header tank in about a month so not too bad.
i removed the turbo heatshield last week and noticed the head gasket was leaking at the back of the block turbo side.
also,there is a little smoke from the exhaust when starting from cold,looks black or blue not too sure.
other than that,it runs fine.
i was going to get the group A headset that woodford garage supply for £200.
how much does a rebuild cost at a tuners these days??
only thing is,there is no respected tuners local to me which is why i was thinking of doing the job myself.
i dont think it needs a total rebuild but i maybe wrong.
the only problems i have with it is its losing water but not much. its going from max to min on the header tank in about a month so not too bad.
i removed the turbo heatshield last week and noticed the head gasket was leaking at the back of the block turbo side.
also,there is a little smoke from the exhaust when starting from cold,looks black or blue not too sure.
other than that,it runs fine.
i was going to get the group A headset that woodford garage supply for £200.
how much does a rebuild cost at a tuners these days??
only thing is,there is no respected tuners local to me which is why i was thinking of doing the job myself.
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