My escos cut out last week and I was towed home by the AA.
Did some tests with the guy from the AA and there was no fuel getting through. I was sure that it would be the connector from on top of the tank or the join from behind the bumper......

Anyway the tests I have carried out so far are:-

1. Checked voltage at connectors: - 10.8 volts (when I turn the car over)

2. Changed the relay.

3. Removed fuel pump and checked internal wiring.

4. Wired pump up directly to 12v supply - OK.

5. Again wired pump up to 12v supply in the tank and fuel is being pumped - so I know all the connections from the join behind the bumper to the pump is OK.

6. Swapped my L8 ecu for my recently repaired P8 ecu. (the swapped back when it still would not start)


The car will still not start. I can't understand why I get 10.5volts when I turn the car over- surely this would start the car?

Also what voltage should I see when I just turn the ignition on to prime?


The next step for me seems to be an auto-electrician - and at a guess I would say fuse box or imob.

Am I missing anything! -any ideas / any other tests???

BTW the car has a concept 50x and the standard form imob. is still connected too.

Thanks in advance for any help boys!

 

Just had probs with mine !

Car would'nt start ,there was no fuel or spark on mine.

It turned out to be the crank sensor!!!!!!!!

Don't know if that could be your prob,if you have a spark
there is a good chance it will be the fuse box!!

Had one of them tooooooo

hope that helps

 

davey
hi davey
are they 19 super ts you got on your motor ?
they fill arches perfect , what width are they , what offset , are they fitted with spacers , mines are 18s but dont seem as wide
regards stookay

 

No just 18 not sure wot width got them with the car

Have no spacers on!!!!

would of thought they would be all the same offset

 

do you use fairy liquid to clean them davey?

 

had same prob with mine turned about to be lambda sensor. same thing driving along and cut out. try disconnecting and starting car worth a go

 

check the fuses

make sure the lambda one hasnt blown

 

Mine had the same...RAC out too.....it was the fuse box, they are prone to it...on all Escorts, they get damp in the box and f@ck up.....

There is a way of bypassing the fuse box with a couple of wires, my Auto Electrician did mine as a temp fix.....

Good luck....

 

Update:- Checked all fuses including lambda etc.. all ok. Fed a direct feed from the battery to the pump and it started fine. Then left the earth from the battery in the plug and used the live from the multiplug - did not start. Then used the live from the battery and the earth from the mutliplug and it still did not start.

The strange thing is when it is running with the direct feed from the battery the voltage at the mutliplug is 13.5volts WTF is going on there? - so I qickly removed the direct feed from the battery and swapped it with the multiplug and the fucker cut out after a couple of seconds...... Sounds like the fuse box to me.... or any other ideas?

If it is the fuse box and I run a direct fused supply through a relay to supply the pump can I get away without changing the fusebox for now? Or can they be repaired?

 

I run a seperate live supply to pump anyway (though I also run aftermarket loom)

I would suggest its your immobilser at fault or fuse box, check the lives etc at pump relay in box then you will know what is going on, also not read it all fully but the plug behind the bumper is ok isnt it? check lives and earths there

also check cut off switch in n/s kickwell, could be at fault killing your pump live as this is AFTER the relay in fusebox.

 

FUSE BOX
FUSE BOX
FUSE BOX
FUSE BOX

 

FUSE BOX
FUSE BOX
FUSE BOX
FUSE BOX


...............Fucking fusebox!!!!! - I had a live to the relay which is switching as it should then from between the relay and the fuse nothing.
For now I have bridged the relay to the "live" side of the fuse and it works fine.

Next question - what's next to go because of the fuse box???? I really can't be arsed to folk out for a new one at the moment.....

Damo - I might do your trick and send the supply from the battery but where is the best place to mount the relay and don't I need an input from the ecu to go to it?????

 

use the earth and IGN live from the fuse box, Spade terminals and decent size wire should be ok that will enable your current immobilisers to continue to work...

then on the output from the relay put that to the wire coming out the bottom of the fuse box which goes to cut off switch (then pump)

Obviously include a new fuse somewhere
BTW the wire is red black trace

 

Cheers Damo ! - this is all part of the joys of owning a cossie!!

And thanks for all your suggestions chaps!!!

filthyrichie & auralisRS - Spot on with the diagnosis.

 

take the fuse box out and get it resoldered ,costs next to nothing and will only take a couple of hrs inc r/refitting it

 

Mr Radman - is it worth trying to do it myself (I have done a bit of basic soldering) or get it done?????

 

my mate is an auto electrician,hes done a couple of hundred of mk5 fuse boxes! its a common fault across the range,he did mine in 5 mins,knew exactly which ones to look at,fuel pump is a common one,mine had started to bubble and melt on the soldered joint,worth taking the box out and having a look,then take it to your local auto electrics place,they should easily be able to spot any probs unless the box has started to melt

 

Get a new one.....piece of mind...then loosely lay a polythene bag over the top before you push it up onto its mounts, just loosely mind or it will sweat and screw up again, make sure it can breath, this way any future moisture that drops down from above won't mess it up..

Good luck

 

I think too that is the Fuse Box your problem, buy a new one if you can

 

nothing to do with moisture unless you have a leak in the bulkhead,the soldered joint overheat and bubble/melt or dry/crack

 

ditto

The new ones are meant to be better

 

I don't think there is any leak - there is no sign of there ever being any dampness. I am going to take it out and re-solder it when I get time. I have also got to remove the front multiplugs and solder the loom together where they were:- so when I get a spare day I will have a go at it!

 

Oh and its nice to actually drive the car, took it for a quick spin tonight and had only the 3rd dabble I've had since owning the car - against a scooby P1. It was quite embarrassing for the poor guy in the scooby.

Makes you realise what owning a stage 3 escos is all about.