FAO SECS/STU ETC ETC Re Lamda......
...ok as everyone knows i am on the EVO stage 3 chip from Stu for P8 BUT it requires a lamda to make the engine go over 4000rpm!...Very clever chip needs everything spot on to operate
...so i have a lamda in the turbo and it appears wired in BUT pin 2 on the ECU is empty!!!!!The lamda pin....So it has 3 wires if i run a new 3 core cable what wire go where obviously one goes to the pin 2 where the other 2 go or aint it that simple?.....
Wouldny normally ask for Simoms help...maybe a chance to redeem himself?
...so i have a lamda in the turbo and it appears wired in BUT pin 2 on the ECU is empty!!!!!The lamda pin....So it has 3 wires if i run a new 3 core cable what wire go where obviously one goes to the pin 2 where the other 2 go or aint it that simple?.....
Wouldny normally ask for Simoms help...maybe a chance to redeem himself?
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PassionFord Post Whore!!
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From: Macclesfield - you'll never leave....!
Black (output to pin 2)
Red (Heater + from switched 12v)
White (Heater - to pin 1)
hth...
http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours1.htm
3 wire 12mm titania
Red (Heater + from switched 12v)
White (Heater - to pin 1)
hth...
http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours1.htm
3 wire 12mm titania
RED: +12 volts - Fuel pump power ideally or ignition live
BLACK: Heater earth - Nearest good earth point
WHITE: Signal - Connect to pin 2 on the ECU.
To be absolutely sure, use a multimeter to check resistance across red and black and make sure the resistance is LESS than 800 ohms.
BLACK: Heater earth - Nearest good earth point
WHITE: Signal - Connect to pin 2 on the ECU.
To be absolutely sure, use a multimeter to check resistance across red and black and make sure the resistance is LESS than 800 ohms.
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,519
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From: Macclesfield - you'll never leave....!
i remember stu and myself were scratching heads over this when we were trying stus OEM one to eliminate a problem my aftermarket one ( which incidently turned out to be fine - was the map sensor)
Dave, Just checked my information and it is very ambiguous.
Phil,
The heater wires will have the lowest resistance.
If you have a multimeter, please check it first as I described above or if not......
You can pre test the sensor
1) DO NOT INSTALL IT IN CAR (ENSURE METAL BODY DOES NOT TOUCH BODY WORK)
2) Connect RED to the battery positive. (temporarily)
3) Connect the BLACK wire to the battery negative for 10 seconds MAXIMUM.
Check if lambda probe warms up (BE CAREFULL AS IT COULD BE VERY HOT AND BURN)
Wait 1 minute before checking to allow heat to get through sensor.
If warm/hot - I am right
4) If test 3 fails, connect the WHITE wire to the battery negative.
10 seconds maximum (test as above)
If the sensor gets warm, DAVE is correct
Phil,
The heater wires will have the lowest resistance.
If you have a multimeter, please check it first as I described above or if not......
You can pre test the sensor
1) DO NOT INSTALL IT IN CAR (ENSURE METAL BODY DOES NOT TOUCH BODY WORK)
2) Connect RED to the battery positive. (temporarily)
3) Connect the BLACK wire to the battery negative for 10 seconds MAXIMUM.
Check if lambda probe warms up (BE CAREFULL AS IT COULD BE VERY HOT AND BURN)
Wait 1 minute before checking to allow heat to get through sensor.
If warm/hot - I am right
4) If test 3 fails, connect the WHITE wire to the battery negative.
10 seconds maximum (test as above)
If the sensor gets warm, DAVE is correct
PassionFords Creator
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From: Blackpool, UK Destination: Rev limiter
The car loom wire is brown/white so if you have the original triangular plug, and i recall you said you did, you can determine the correct wire from that.
Im thinking its black for signal but TEST IT...
Im thinking its black for signal but TEST IT...
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