my car has been off the road for 2 years+ having the underside minted up before it came off the road it was sweet as a nut, NOW its a bitch it had no fuel getting to the meter head but i've sorted this, but now when fireing it up it starts ok ish but runs like a bag of 5hit like on 3 and theres black smoke coming out the zorst ???????????????????????/

wtf can be wrong now ??? looked for air leaks ect

mark

 

just sounds like its over fueling massively to me, tried disconnecting the cold start?
does it clear?

 

Have you removed the fuel ECU at all?

But as Ballin said,black smoke would make me think it was overfuelling What colour is the inside of the tailpipe?

 

Mines started doing this the last two days, runs like shit and I kill it. Wait 30 secs, try again and it clears, It used to do it for 5 secs or so but not like 30 and have to stop the car Fine when warm, fooking thing!

 

whats it like when it gets to running temp and down the road

just so we know if we are look at cold start ot not. dont worry mate it will be something and nothing

 

the cold start is unpluged, this is the first time i've started it in over 2 years, cant run it down the road as i still need to bleed the brakes, but the way it is theres no way you could drive it, the pipe is black as fook so its defo over fuel'in, i also took out the 5th injector to see if that was flooding it on start up, but that seem ok

the only thing i've done under the bonnet is renew the fuel injector lines with braided lines

mark

 

hi mark

if its been in the garge for 2 years+ just make should the air sensor in the meter head isnt stuck down (remove the KnN filter or air box and see if the plate is up like it should be)

if its down it will think your full throttling

if it was ok when you put it in the gauge it will be something stuck we just need to find it mate. start here and work back

ps what mods do you have on it

stu

 

i take it you're using fresh fuel?

 

already looked at the flap its fine, and yes it has new fuel in it

heres the spec sorry for the length i just copy'd it over form another thread lol

spec
P.E systems two 1905 engine
Balanced 88mm cast iron allow crank
Forged rods
Hi-duty big end and main bearings
fully floating bronze small ends
83mm German Mahle pistons
Goetze piston rings
high flow oil pump
Stage three head gas-flowed with bigger inlet and exhaust valves, valve seats opened up and cut to tree angles and enlarged reshaped ports, bronze guides
power+ camshaft SX428T
Alloy vernier pulley kent
Gear box uprated
4 paddle clutch NEW
Lightened flywheel
5th injector with light blue comes in at 12psi
Hybrid turbo 3.5 all singing and danceing
collins actuator same as -31
boost set about 19psi - 20psi which is a turbo systems chip
Mongoose stainless exhaust with modded down pipe with lamba fitted
K@N cone filter
large capacity GSR intercooler
twin 10" kenlowe fans
Samco silicon boost hoses
Samco silicon water hoses
Blue silicon extra water hoses
Group A dump valve in cross pipe (taken off now)
Front brakes 4-pot wilwood DL calipers 305mm x-drilled discs
Mintex 1144 pads
Braided hoses
Abs removed all brake pipes up front Braided
Fuel injector brake lines Braided
Rear 4wd cozzy calipers with 280mm x-drilled discs
Braided hoses
Koni adjustable shocks on each corner
lowered springs 30mm
Full poly bushed
17" silauto alloys with 205/40/17 yoko tyres
Full underside restro fully painted

Auto meter boost gauge
A pillar pod
Twin colum pod
Momo race steering wheel and gear nob
Auto meter Air to Fuel gauge drilled in to exhaust lamba
Alloy rsturbo gear knob
shiney bits
spec-r cam belt cover
spec-r conical filter heatshield
spec-r fuse cover
spec-r slam panel blanks
stainless wiper cover
stainless wiper mount plate
stainless throttle cable cover
stainless suspension tops
stainless turbo heatshield
stainless under bonnet panel
stainless servo cover
stainless washer tank cap
alloy strut brace
polished coil
polished fuel filter
polished stat housing
polishes inlet
chrome rocker cover
chrome engine lifting eyes
chrome bonnet catch
chrome cross pipe
chrome 5th injector mount
chrome bonnet hinges
forge motorsport polished header tank
polished inlet manifold
stainless battery cover
stainless brake fluid cover and cap
Bailey oil separator polished alloy

mark

 

oh and this is why its been off the road so long



i'll get it on the road then next month sell it for an ecoz oh well

mark

 

just went out to start it again and it seems its first start form cold is as it should be sweet as a nut for about 15secs then its all over the place, also seem'd like a noise coming form under the rock cover ???? stuck vavle ???? wiped off the cover and turn'd it over all looked ok, the rocker all went up and down lol what else should i look for, if it is a stuck valve ????????????????

mark

 

hi mark

very nice car mate its a credit to you

if the the valve spring are returning to full, then the valve should be ok

just need to have a think, i will reply back

ps when its running ok, let me know if you come to england, i would like to see your car

 

the isle of wight is in england m8 lol but you mean the main land, if i still have it in august i will be taking it to nat day (if it running right by then)

mark

 

black smoke usually indicates over fueling or a fuel problem,

try this, unplug the multi plug which goes to the fuel pressure actuator, and then start it and see what happens,

i had the same problem on saturday as u have described on a mates rs turbo caterham hes been building for 3 years, he started it up and done the same as u described, i unplugged the wire i say above and it runs fine, so its proberly the fuel pressure actuator stuck over the years and over fueling it, try it and see what happens

 

cheeRS m8 it must be some thing stuck over the years as you say, i just hope this is it

mark

 

the wire from the fuel pressure actuator goes to fuel ecu, so if unplugged and it runs ok, its worth trying the fuel ecu before a metering unit change, also the incase u dont know where the fuel pressure actuator is, its on the right hand side of the metering unit, a little black box or grey as on sum series 1's

let us know how u get on

 

anything over the waters abroad lol

how d it go will the fuel pressure actuator

 

i've not done it yet as i took the rock cover off thinking it might be a stuck valve , so it need to be put back together, cant do it tonight so it will have to wait till tomorrow eve now but fingers crossed it is that

mark

 

right i just unplug'd it and it would not start at all so i put it back on so it did start, then pulled it off and it sounded 100% better BUT then at the cam belt end im getting a real bad noise, so turn'd it off it driving me mad now wtf is grinding under the cam cover ???? before it came off the road i just put a new cam kit in it

mark

 

hi mark

the noise you are hearing at the cam belt side is possible the water pump.

mine did it after i fitted my cam, it didnt make the noise at the start but only after a few mins, or the other thing it could be is the belt tensioner. mine had no play in the water pump pulley nor did it leak water just make a horried noise, stuck a new one on it, sorted

stu

 

you can only hear it when you bring the revs up a tad, sounds fooking bad and sounded like it ws under the cam cover i hope you right its the cam belt tensioner

mark

 

mine also did this but it was the tensioner sprayed a little wd40 on the tensioner wheel while it was running and instantly the noise went, but once it dried out again it went back to its noisy old self so a new one was purchased.

 

was it a high pitch noise because mine was

 

proberly is the tensioner, if your cam belt is too tight it will make it noiser, i slackened mine off a bit, now its fine,

If it runs fine with that plug disconnected its proberly a metering unit problem, or that fuel pressure actuator, its problerly cheaper to buy a second hand metering unit, than a new actuator from ford if available

if u had a valve stuck it would run rough with a good working metering unit

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...981013469&rd=1

one on ebay mate, very rare!

 

just got given one but its not black like mine its grey, they look the same, anyone know if it will work ok ??? this one was off a 87 car mines a 90

mark

 

should work mate, grey are the early ones, but the metering units are the same, just about, give it a try, personally if it solves the problem id buy a new one in the end

 

also try a fuel ecu aswell

 

just put it on and it wont start now ??? the part numbers are not the same??

mark

 

it must need the right one then mate, thought it wouldnt make a difference,maybe it does, try and get hold of a black one, somebody on here must have an old metering unit lying about!!

 

i have a m8 ripping his off tonight for me to try, if it is that then i'll try and get that new one off e-bay

mark

 

put another black one on and it still wont start ?? put mine back on and it starts but lumpy as fook, but pull off the plug and it runs sweet as a nut ???????????????????????????????????

help

mark

 

Sounds like mine https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=128031 and it's doing my head in.

Unplug the actuator and it runs sweet but won't tick over, plug in the actuator and it idles but wont throttle without seriously overfuelling, CO goes off the scale. Have changed the black ECU and the metering head.

 

I was always under the impression, the Grey Pressure Actuator are only on Series 1's, and the black one on Series 2's, as the ECU's on both cars talk to it different.
My One on the S1 was leaking, so i bought a new one, and the guy told me a black one wouldn't be no good on an S1, so i imagine its the same the other way round.

 

AL mine will not start with the FPR unplug'd if left plug'd in it starts but wont idle, run round and pull the plug off and it runs and idle's sweet as a nut and revs ??????????????????????

mark

 

I think the next thing i buy mine is gonna be a box of matches

 

try a fuel ecu mate, then change your metering unit, also check the connection block on the side of the metering unit (left hand side of it) just above the big inlet pipe to the turbo, sometimes this can corode,

 

resistance when you have appuy with the finger on the plate in the metering unit ?, if doesn't have of them the piston in the metering head is gripp


translation

 

just try'd another fuel ECU and its the same whats next ??? try another FPR or meter head ??

mark

 

id try a metering unit, as u have tried a fuel ecu,

also have u checked the heated seats fuse in the fuse box, this is for the fuel mangenment