YB standard internals power limit ?
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YB standard internals power limit ?
Trying to work out if I can safely push more power out of my engine as it's still running a standard bottom end with valve pockets in the pistons.
Currently maxed my T34/63 at 426bhp holding 21psi boost so looking in to a turbo change but not sure what to go for and how far I can push it and keep some sort of reliability as I'm not looking to do a full rebuild and spec change just yet.
car is on New Link G4+ management with all safety strategies enabled.
Told by my mapper it's good but so restricted by the turbo and something newer and larger would transform the car even more.
Currently maxed my T34/63 at 426bhp holding 21psi boost so looking in to a turbo change but not sure what to go for and how far I can push it and keep some sort of reliability as I'm not looking to do a full rebuild and spec change just yet.
car is on New Link G4+ management with all safety strategies enabled.
Told by my mapper it's good but so restricted by the turbo and something newer and larger would transform the car even more.
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Which block do you have?
If 200, is it long studded? - I would imagine keeping the head bolted down would be your limiting factor
426 is a lot of power for a 34/63, has it been modified? (billet wheel/ cutback blades etc)
If 200, is it long studded? - I would imagine keeping the head bolted down would be your limiting factor
426 is a lot of power for a 34/63, has it been modified? (billet wheel/ cutback blades etc)
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Surprised by the power thought about 27psi held was around 380?
iam in the same boat holding 27 psi but want abit more about 450hp, standard low mileage engine, had new grp N head gasket about 10k ago.
iam in the same boat holding 27 psi but want abit more about 450hp, standard low mileage engine, had new grp N head gasket about 10k ago.
lmfao
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It's a 200 block but has ARP Stud & Nut kit fitted which was done correctly to the ARP specs. Head is mildly ported and polished with bd16 inlet cam and AS Plenum and 65mm id electronic Throttle body so free flowing hence the low boost pressure. When on the standard inlet set up it was holding 30 psi on the same turbo.
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Dont really want to pull engine apart to long stud at the moment as when I do take it apart I want to build a bulletproof engine but not really got the funds to go that far at the moment.
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Are you looking for a direct fitment turbo ? A t38 or a T4 should be a bolt in replacement, old hat but will get the job done. I'm not sure what needs changeing to fit an efr or similar modern turbo
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An EFR would require a twin scroll manifold and a down pipe mod which is no problem. My mapper suggested the new Garret G25 series turbo which would require modding my manifold or a replacement but I don't know anyone that has fitted one to know if they work with a YB. There may be other modern turbos that I could use ?
the questions are what turbo, what size, internal or external wastegate, and how far I can push the engine but keep it reliable.
Im looking to try and find a happy medium where I can run more power by changing turbos but keep it reliable and safe at the same time. I would rather get a smaller power gain but be safe than a big gain with the fear it's going to go bang at any point. If that makes sense.
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i wasn't trying to imply ARP Stud kit was a fit and forget, just currently working with what it's got.
Don't see the point in paying out for an old technology turbo as don't want to he car to be laggy with all the power up top.
An EFR would require a twin scroll manifold and a down pipe mod which is no problem. My mapper suggested the new Garret G25 series turbo which would require modding my manifold or a replacement but I don't know anyone that has fitted one to know if they work with a YB. There may be other modern turbos that I could use ?
the questions are what turbo, what size, internal or external wastegate, and how far I can push the engine but keep it reliable.
Im looking to try and find a happy medium where I can run more power by changing turbos but keep it reliable and safe at the same time. I would rather get a smaller power gain but be safe than a big gain with the fear it's going to go bang at any point. If that makes sense.
On a 200 block motor I ran 472 hp with standard head bolts without issues, some of these modern turbos might fit internal gate with just a mod to downpipe needed
Mark Shead will know what will fit, or a gt30 maybe
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From: Sutton
Has the engine had a rebuild?
You say it's got pocketed pistons and an arp bolt kit which all ain’t standard so it’s not really a standard bottom end...
What head gasket you on?
if it’s all in good nick and has a decent head gasket I’d say between 450-500 and you should be ok.
Especially if not running crazy boost levels
Cheers Paul
You say it's got pocketed pistons and an arp bolt kit which all ain’t standard so it’s not really a standard bottom end...
What head gasket you on?
if it’s all in good nick and has a decent head gasket I’d say between 450-500 and you should be ok.
Especially if not running crazy boost levels
Cheers Paul
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Has the engine had a rebuild?
You say it's got pocketed pistons and an arp bolt kit which all aint standard so its not really a standard bottom end...
What head gasket you on?
if its all in good nick and has a decent head gasket Id say between 450-500 and you should be ok.
Especially if not running crazy boost levels
Cheers Paul
You say it's got pocketed pistons and an arp bolt kit which all aint standard so its not really a standard bottom end...
What head gasket you on?
if its all in good nick and has a decent head gasket Id say between 450-500 and you should be ok.
Especially if not running crazy boost levels
Cheers Paul
turbo has only been pushed to its limit since it had the Link management fitted and mapped in Nov 18.
Its the black saph you posted pics of last Sunday in cobham services !
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I ran a gt30/71 on my Sapphire on a standard engine that had been rebuilt a few thousand miles previously, have to say it didn’t last very long, the engine let go during a live road map and upon strip down there was milk at the back of the engine where the head bolts to the block.
Prior to the live map when I had fitted a few more spangly bits chasing more horse power the car ran 420 bhp with 400 ft/lbs torque. It had switchable maps low boost 15 psi high 30 psi.
if you are chasing big horse power 400+ you’ll definitely need a decent rebuild with long studs imo
Prior to the live map when I had fitted a few more spangly bits chasing more horse power the car ran 420 bhp with 400 ft/lbs torque. It had switchable maps low boost 15 psi high 30 psi.
if you are chasing big horse power 400+ you’ll definitely need a decent rebuild with long studs imo
I ran a gt30/71 on my Sapphire on a standard engine that had been rebuilt a few thousand miles previously, have to say it didnt last very long, the engine let go during a live road map and upon strip down there was milk at the back of the engine where the head bolts to the block.
Prior to the live map when I had fitted a few more spangly bits chasing more horse power the car ran 420 bhp with 400 ft/lbs torque. It had switchable maps low boost 15 psi high 30 psi.
if you are chasing big horse power 400+ youll definitely need a decent rebuild with long studs imo
Prior to the live map when I had fitted a few more spangly bits chasing more horse power the car ran 420 bhp with 400 ft/lbs torque. It had switchable maps low boost 15 psi high 30 psi.
if you are chasing big horse power 400+ youll definitely need a decent rebuild with long studs imo
My last saph was built by an ex nms employee, 200 Turkish block, 7.2 c/r, wrc gasket and standard head bolts, ran a T4 msd live mapped to 2.2 bar above 5300 rpm, 472 hp and never gave any problems, it can be done and be reliable
30-130 mph was 12-13 seconds iirc
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After lots of reading it looks like a internal gated EFR 7064 would give me what I am looking for power wise without to much stress on the engine.
Anyone tried the new G25 series turbo yet or know if they are as good as the EFR turbos seem to be ?
Anyone tried the new G25 series turbo yet or know if they are as good as the EFR turbos seem to be ?
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If your engine is running fine at the boost and revs your running just put a gt30 with a 63 or 82 housing at the same boost you will make more power,as long as it’s re tuned and injectors and fuel system is adequate you’ll be fine
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O44 pump and ID1050x injectors so fuel supply shouldn't be an issue!
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From: Sutton
Paul, it's on standard crank, rods, and pistons but valve cut outs were machined in so I could run bigger cams. Engine has done about 4K miles since it was built 5 years ago including 1500 miles on a running in map. It's got a multi layer steel WRC head gasket fitted,
turbo has only been pushed to its limit since it had the Link management fitted and mapped in Nov 18.
Its the black saph you posted pics of last Sunday in cobham services !
It sounds like its in decent nick then and 4k miles aint a lot, and a proper headgasket fitted too.
So Id say easy 450-500hp.
Like many have said choose a decent turbo for another 50-80hp and youll be good.
Lots of turbo choices out there, new Garrett, Owens GTB, efrs, small gt30, etc
Cheers Paul
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GT3071R seems an easy option with the Cosworth housing so it can go straight on a standard manifold?
same lag as T34 from what the majority say.
i quite like the way the power comes in on the T34 As love that turbo surge of power.
Lazy part of me says throw a GT30 on but guess the efr makes sense for the cost of a manifold?
same lag as T34 from what the majority say.
i quite like the way the power comes in on the T34 As love that turbo surge of power.
Lazy part of me says throw a GT30 on but guess the efr makes sense for the cost of a manifold?
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I'm tempted to try the new Garret G25 series but as they are still quit new theirs not a lot of info as to if they are as good or better than the likes of the EFR plus their is no twin scroll option available at the moment but it's meant to coming soon.
New engine has a hart inlet on it which im sure will be much better
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