hy guys i think we need to have a MFI tuning guide

like how mutch max boost on mfi an AFR setup and timing setup an sparkplugs gap

no?

 

No....

Just go EFI

Sorted.

 

Too big a minefield. What works for one worn old mfi set up may not for another and I personally wouldn't want grief from someone saying they did what I suggested and it blew up.

Get it set up by someone that knows what they are doing. Pay the money and enjoy peace of mind.

 

There's not that much to it really...

Buy det cans and a WB02.

Retard timing using the dizzy to 8 degree's BTDC at idle with vacuum hose to ECU disconnected and blocked then reconnect.
Increase fuel pressure on EMFPA by 1/8th of a turn clockwise.
Increase boost by a few psi.
Do a power run monitoring for det and lean AFR's (above 11.8:1 if going for a bar plus of boost, can be a bit leaner if not), abort run in either case.
Make adjustments based on the run, if lean increase fuel pressure again, if det is heard retard timing (unlikely when starting at 8 DBTDC).
Increase boost and run again.
Rinse and repeat until you are at your desired boost level based on a million other variables about your cars spec! lol
Then gradually advance the timing again to the point of det (monitoring and adjusting AFR's), back off a few degrees.
Set idle AFR using idle mixture screw.

Done.

Make sure if you set it up on 99RON you always run it on 99RON.... or you'll det.

 

as above fit efi or aftermarket........... job done

 

thanks well when i drive the car im at 11.8 AFR but i don t know how mutch boost i have with my stage 2 t3 i have a gauge but how can i test it like the oldstyle 4 gear 3000 rpm fulll throthle and brake??

 

highest gear but maybe 4 will also be fine and then floor it from 1500 rpm till rev limiter and look what max boost pressure was

 

1.4 bar- 20 psi

 

is 8 dbtdc retard timing not too mutch because my car is still have some missfire at high rpm

 

i think the mfi or ignition system is struggling tbh. I would wind down the boost. is it a violent misfire? some chipped ecu;s have an 18psi boost limit. the boost cut is severe though. it sounds as though it could be blowing the spark out, that sort of boost is high on a less than perfect ignition system or mfi unit for that matter

 

but i tink it s really the timing advance who plays a lot of the engine perfomence
i have the piper cam t2 and the timing off the cam is 69-21 added make 90 plus 180 make me 270 deg duration

and her are the rules Cam duration Advance Idle speed expected
cam
deg ignition rpm
timing
270 10-12 600-800
280 12-14 900-1000
290 14-16 1000-1100
300 16-18 1100-1200
310+ 18-20 1100-1400

it s mean it looks like it have to be agin like 12 degree like standard? but with mutch boost will be 10 the best no because at 8 degree the car don t have so mutch power...?

 

The only way to find these things out are on a RR. You can hear better if its detonating or not and you can see power increase/decrease much better, because you won't feel 5 bhp more or less

Besides the advance idle speed is just an indication. Which chip are you running? Maybe you have shit iginition advance mapping?

 

turbosystem no limit boost i have some det cans but how can i use them on the idle ? or i need to drive the car a listen and wich sound need i to do?

 

Don't want to be rude but i would take it to a tuner. I know there not easy to find but still these guys know quite what to look for. Less chance of something going wrong. Also going to a tuner will pull up your own experience if you stay with it and ask what are they changing and why


For the det cans you shouldn't use them on idle mate. Try some youtube vids or sg. There must be more info. Also have a look on what detonation is and what causes it

Detonation is self detonation of the fuel. Its no burning like normal. Causing extreme heat and pressure rises peaks. This will cause lil deformation on the piston on low det and complete holes when its going hard.

Det is caused by high pressure and high temps. The resistance against det is caught in the octane number. If its higher (98 over 95) it will be better resistant. This is one of the reasons why its more expensive. The rs turbo has no automatic ignition adjustment as some cars have so chancing on a set up from 95 to 98 doesn't make much difference. From 98 going to 95 can cause that we get detonation.

So what a lot of people do is set up on 95 close to det and then drive 98 and you are safe! So back to you. As said det is high pressure and temp. At idle listening to det is a bul*****. So what you do is you take the det cans (i never used one or seen one irl) drive and increase till you hear a metal high tone sound. This is detonation. You wil have too much advance. If you later increase boost or adjust fuelling det can start again. Don't stay to close to det if you drive your car a lot, best to go for a safer set up then.

 

well ok thanks but the car drive fine know at 8 degree ignition timing but it drive better at 12 degree ignition timing more power full

on the plastic there is wrote 16 . 8 . 0 . well i really need to put it on 8 it dificult because also at idle the engine rpm is not very fluid and difficult to find the little point on the pulley....

 

Little point on the pulley?! Are you adjusting the CAM timing? Ignition timing is adjusted by turning the distributor and using a timing light/gun.
If you do not know that you don't listen for detonation at idle then you really should leave it well alone mate.

 

no lool i know but it s the point who you see on the down pulley of the crankshaft with the timing light gun sometimes is difficult to find the point because the rpm are moving litlle bit .. at to adjust it very close to 8 degree is a litlle bit difficult you really need t be on the front off the cam belt

 

Ah sorry yes I understand now! lol