Hi all, just saying I am sick to death of my 3dr not idling properly, so am asking wot does everyone's 3 drs idle at ??? Mines sometimes 500rpm then 800rpm and sometimes 1000rpm and it mostly stalls it has standalone management on it but it's a pain in the arse is it the map or has anyone eles had this problem wots turned out to be something silly!! Wud a car wots bee mapped fluctuate on idle? I thought it might be like it all the time..... please help as its spoiling my fun

 

Does it idle bad even when warm ?

Steve

 

Yes !!! If I give it a blast and let the revs fall naturally to idle it will stall and then is a twat to start I talking turning over for about 6-7 seconds with a bit of throttle to start it again it's embarrassing .

 

Just wondered if everyones 3drs are a pain to start because warm or cold it takes at least 5 seconds to fire up

 

No not at all, sounds like you have a problem, whats the co like as might be a bit rich, but as you don't have standard management don't have a clue how to fault find it. Who mapped it as go back to them to check it over

 

Mines fine... Could want idle setting... Could be air leak.

My advice is go and have it set up at a decent tuner.

 

I must admit wen I bought it, it was already mapped and setup and I flagged down these problems but they just don't seem interested at all but it's going back down on the 14th because I've had enough I just wanted some ammunition to throw at him by saying no one eles do it it's sooooo bloody annoying I once came up to a roundabout and it died and I couldn't get it started again ! Why wud te idle fluctuate thought it wud stay at whatever it's been mapped too ???

 

mines always been fine in the past idle 850rpm before and at present 950rpm

 

Wots it like if u stop all of a sudden and have to dip clutch ?? Mine stalls and won't start again. How many turns does urs take to fire up ??

 

Had the same problem all be it on my xr3i lol was a blocked breather

 

The correct (official) speed is 850 RPM.

Don't know why everyone seems to have missed this but 500 RPM is no good what so ever and will cause the stalling you are having, it can also cause a bad idle as the ECU senses it's to low and will compensate via the ISCV.

No problems starting here what so ever, bearing in mind mine is rarely ever used, it always starts first time, again your idle isn't going to help this!

Setup the base idle properly, you should find this will sort most if not all of your issues!

Martin

 

850 ok il tell the mapper but the starting is down to fueling no ?? It hesitates when setting off and wen planting my foot down it coughs like theirs no fuel there and finally picks up!! If these guys don't sort it where is the best place to take it who map haltecs ??

 

The driving issues won't be down to the idle.

Quite frankly if the mapper gave the car back to you lke that, then his no mapper anymore than I am the pope!

Out of interest what made you decide to change management, the OE Weber ECU'S are very good!

The starting quite possibly is down to the idle, the way to tell is to open the throttle slightly when starting, what happens?

Martin

 

I didn't change the ecu the guys down at Aet put it on to sell their Ecus etc !! I cannot start it without giving it throttle it just won't have it ! Apparently it does not have a cold start on it because that was a extra 500 quid to add to ecu!! But despite warm or cold it always needs some throttle

 

It had standard breather on it web I bought it an I put bailey breather on it with no change so it's not that

 

Mines fine... Could want idle setting... Could be air leak.

My advice is go and have it set up at a decent tuner.

 

Thought maf sensor wud of picked that up on map .... No or maybe a decent tuner could sort it out because it's running like a bag of nails

 

A decent tuner will sort it mate .

 

Msd perhaps ?? Need someone who has access to haltec system

 

Give them a ring mate... There very nice people I've been using them for nearly 10years now..

 

Not really, as with any computer the ECU can only do what it has been told to do, i.e. how it's been mapped in the latter case.

For example on a cold start MAP you might have a temperature range and then a fuelling table which says for xx °c give an injector pulse for x milliseconds, I have put this simply there is alot more that goes to actually achieve what it does.

So if it is poorly mapped (not saying it is) it will simply act on what the MAP says, you can now understand why it's very dangerous for someone to play with maps unless they are 100% compentant in what they are doing, especially with a FI engine as with boost you can end up with a meltdown very easily.

With adaptive ECU's they will make slight corrections where they can and store those in memory for optimum running conditions.

If you have a MAF sensor then you also have aftermarket sensors, as these cars have MAP's.

Back on subject like I say, set the base idle correctly as that is far to low!

That cannot bve right what they are saying re the ECU, thats a basic function of any ECU or car infact for it to start!

Martin