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rear disc brake issues

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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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From: essex
Default rear disc brake issues

i have posted up in here before regarding my rear cossie brakes on my mk4 escy.
the problem is they are too powerful for my car as my car is stripped out and very light at the back.
i have recon calipers with mintex pads and std discs.
firstly they still use the std escort restrictors that sit near the steering rack.
i also fitted a bias valve and shut it off completely but it still kept locking up under heavy breaking.
so next i took the pads out and ground them diagnally so they still cover the whole disc but the pad surface is reduced by half, so now they are bit better but they are still too powerful and lock up still.
at high speeds and heavy breaking they lock up and the arse end comes round which on the road can be a bit scary lol.
so.... is it now time to down grade to some std drums or is there another way of reducing the rears even further?
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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We use focus or fiesta rear disk and caliper set ups to eliminate this
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 04:17 PM
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Ive got the same setup on mine and it works fine, im using the Wilwood bias valve and full cos 2wd setup on the rear.

How have you plumbed the valve in??
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by B16CVH
Ive got the same setup on mine and it works fine, im using the Wilwood bias valve and full cos 2wd setup on the rear.

How have you plumbed the valve in??
ive got two pipes from the master which each split front/ back.
two fronts go directly to the calipers.
the two backs are then joined together and go through the bias valve then go back into the std ford system, through the std restrictors and out to the rear calipers.
it all seems ok but i think the bias valve will not shut off enough, looks like it may be a 60% one?!?!?!? which means it will only shut down to 60% of the std breaking.
whats the willwood one shut to?
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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maybe a second valve inline - or got a smaller disc which would be the better idea with such a small car.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 09:10 AM
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maybe my bias valve doesnt shut right of to 0% otherwise they wouldnt work at all?!?!?!?
its still working to hard even though its wound shut.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 10:50 AM
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why not try another one in line like has been said mike-
60% of 60% is alot less than 60% of 100%
or just look into a better bias valve i guess that goes lower.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris69
why not try another one in line like has been said mike-
60% of 60% is alot less than 60% of 100%
or just look into a better bias valve i guess that goes lower.
some say 0% but i thought mine said that but they still work turned off?!
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 08:54 PM
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i had the same problems mate,ended up binnin mine into a van,i got an ap racing one and sorted the probs,u have to get the feel for it but,different settings for wet and dry,just lock the back off and gradually bring the backs in until they lock up,never had an issue after that and brakes were actually top notch after that,i did recon ma 2wd 4pots at the same time though
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 08:57 PM
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From: West Mids
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Originally Posted by 16vzetec.com
ive got two pipes from the master which each split front/ back.
two fronts go directly to the calipers.
the two backs are then joined together and go through the bias valve then go back into the std ford system, through the std restrictors and out to the rear calipers.
it all seems ok but i think the bias valve will not shut off enough, looks like it may be a 60% one?!?!?!? which means it will only shut down to 60% of the std breaking.
whats the willwood one shut to?

On mine, the fluid goes thru the std restrictors first, i then put a T - piece on the two lines to the rear by the gearstick, the one line then goes thru the bias valve, out the other side then another T-piece back into the std two again.
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