If not i wasted a LOT of money on an engine thats been nothing but fucking bother.

FUCKING SHITTER!

 

woah those pics are massive. hope pf resizes.

btw 1 crack is right through, 1 isnt quite there.

 

is it a 200 and has it been long studded already?

 

No, its hasn't re-sized them.

 

I think i need my magnifying glass to see them pics. Not quite big enough chops

I would say no to your question though

 

yes its a 200 and no it hasnt been long studded.

 

cracked the block by oil in the bolt holes i suspect?

wouldnt have thought it could be saved.

 

Even if PF resizes them, they will still take ages to load!! 640x480, thats the way forward!!

 

what you mean?

 

i usually rely on photobucket to do the job. i know FA about messing around with pics

 

What Ryan means is that there isn't alot of room in the head-bolt holes and any expansion of the block could cause cracking as the oil can't be compressed.

It's important to clean the head-bolt threads and blow it all out with an airline, but it's a bit late for that now!!

 

I wouldnt want to go to the hassle of building an engine using that after it was repaired given the lack of confidence I would ever have in it.

Scrap it IMHO

 

I think he means the bolt holes were not cleaned out before fitment of the head. Thus when the bolts were put in, the pressure of the compressed oil had nowhere to go but sideways, cracking the block!

 

Thats shit news Chop.

 

how much is a new 200 block ? well not brand new of course lol

 

its worse than that mate


mrpoke
NOT cheap! BUT i still have the other 200 block that came with the car that i melted. its original bore and looks like it'll bore ok.

still a pisser

 

im only asking as im getting an oily film in the header tank, im hoping its the gasket but someone else said its a cracked head or block

matt

 

200 blocks are getting really hard to come by now in serviceable condition from what ive seen,

 

My rs500 block cracked from the bolt hole to the water jacket either side. The engine shop had a 200 block in that had cracked from the top water jacket all the wat through every bolt hole and every water jacket. crack was the full lenght of the block.

 

Scrapped mine when it went like that, not worth taking the chance on a new build mate imo.

 

chop use the other block it wil be cool with a bore and hone

 

Fingers crossed for Chop

He doesnt seem to have much luck

 

the only way to save that reliably is to melt it down and recast it lol

 

I hope mine doesnt turn out to be like this. I have just bought it, and its recently had the head off for oil steals. Now its using water and there is an oily film in the expansion bottle.

The lad I got it off is adamant the bolt holes were clean and dry when re fitting.

We'll see this weekend no doubt when I whip the head off.

 

our saturday boy brought his first 4x4 cozzie cheap as the engine was out and had cracks worse than this around the second from center holes..

he did not have lots of cash to purchase a new block so i had his block long studded and welded and re faced..

its going strong at around 400 bhp with no problems ..as the long studs fasten from around the oil gally level and put no force on the cracked areas .....

its your choice but all is not lost......

 

cant see why long studding wont fix it.

the cracks look like they run to the water jackets each side of the bolt hole and NOT to the bores. when the block is long studded some of the studs can be seen when looking down through those water jacket holes that the crack goes to. this means that the drill goes through the block face then through 'thin air' (where water circulates) until it reaches the bottom of the block where the threaded part is created for the stud to locate into.

the balance of the long stud holes actually need to be drilled right through the block as its solid in those parts. when the long studs that go through thin air are torqued into the bottom of the block (50lb ft from memory) this has the effect of pulling the deck down towards the stud thread and actually distorts the block face in the process (mountune says this is normal and when you torque the head up it sorts it out) but when you torque up those studs that go through solid material this is not apparent. the torquing of the studs into the block according to Mountune is to return some rigidity to the block which was removed when the stud holes were drilled.

clearly, if the hole that has the crack is one which has thin air below it, torquing it up when installing the studs will likeley stress that area even more but if its a solid one then there is less likleyhood. In any event when i put my engine together long studded i didnt like the distortion of the head face and so fitted the long studs with loctite and didnt torque them up (no chance of them coming loose anyway as they appear to be interference fit in the holes in the block) and the engine is in bits now with no problems due to studs.

 

I was going to say as other have. People have long studded and refaced the block before, not sure I would want to do that though. If you have a spare block may as well use that anyway

 

How did you know it was cracked????
I hope mine is ok, as i think it's maybe using some water (although the radiator is leaking) I couldn't help notice a more than usual quantity of water coming out the exhaust, hope it's just my imagination..
So how long would it have to be run to expand that much and crack?????

 

Looks dead to me - hydraulic bolt hole failure.

 

if that my old 200 wire-rung block if so it wasn't sold in that condition i even have some pictures of the block face to prove it was mint when i built it and sold it on! after only covering 1500 miles!

Am i right in thinking that the guy ya bought it off said he never even used the bottom-end?

 

the 1 saving grace is that the crank, rods and brand new pistons in that block where mint, i even purchased a mint used standard size crank for that engine

But i'm sure you told me you had some issues with the engine knocking?

like i said all the guy told me was that the block was going in a escos that he used on the track and that it was gonna be over 400bhp

 

Looks like it had ARP bolts installed to me ?

 

mike is correct you are lucky it has only cracked in one place they normally crack every where

 

get your rad fixed asap m8

if the rad drops its guts an spits it all out..when your driving the car ..

you know what happens

 

As above Chop, get it long studded and it should go again no probs.

Steve

 

firstly yes the guy i bought from said he never used it at all.

unfortunately there is no "saving grace" with the crank. it needed re-ground. centre bearing was scored and the shell. its currently with harvey getting gorund to match new shells and taking even more of my money!!!!

oh well it'll make a good door stop

 

fuk me can't believe that well like i said before i reckon the guy must have fitted that bottom-end in his track car, ragged it around for a yr or so then sold it to you saying he'd never even used it

I was lucky at the time cause i bought the crank off Tim Finch then my machine shop checked it and said it was like new, not 1 mark on it he simply gave it a quick polish and made sure the new bearing where the correct fitment