Does anyone know someone who can long stud a YB block?

I have the 10 studs and a new water pump to be modified. How quick can this be done and what does it cost? I need to get this sorted ASAP.

Thanks, any help would be much appreciated. Simon

 

Mike Rainbird can get done

 

^^^what he said^^^

 

As above - Mike can, although as you're in Birmingham, might be worth giving Reyland a call?

 

Thanx for that guys

 

You can ONLY long stud a 4wd block.
tabetha

 

is this for deffinate mate cos i am in deep shit if this is the case, i was told it can be done but u need to modify the water pump housing for 10 studs Which the block is already modifyied to take a 4x4 pump . Whats so different to a 205 compared with the 200 block in terms of long studding?

Thanx
Simon

 

modifying the black to take a 4wd water pump is not the same as modifying it for 10 studding as far as im aware the pump itself has to be machined, as the the outer studs fool on the pump internally.

 

there is an extra bolt hole in a 4x4 pump compared to a 2wd, so the block has been drilled an tapped so the pump fits correctly

 

The 4wd has more material in teh crank webbing area. This is teh material we screw into with the long studs.

The pump needs modifying in the rotor area to run with 10 studs as the front stud fouls the rotor You may be able to viisualise it better with a picture or two...





Sadly, i dont have any head on pics...

 

Well, your in deep shit then!

 

Great Help

Thanx stu, its actually for a mate, so he will have to stick with the ARP stud and nut kit

 

one of my 500 cars has ten long studs fitted,

on a 500, 205 block

 

i dont suppose u know who did it do you?

cheers Simon

 

500 block was different casting!!
tabetha

 

there is obviously different variations of the 205 block, we were told the block is a thick walled transit block it has a big core plug behind the flywheel, and another mate has a 205 block with a small core plug behind flywheel,

can a thick wall transit block be long studded like the 500 can?

if there is such a thing as a thick walled tranist block
Thanx for any help

 

Transit blocks are normally "202" blocks

Do you have any pictures of the block in question, that might remove ambiguity?

 

If you take a look through the water pump hole you can see the walls of the cylinders

The cosworth 205 block was just a selected 2 litre pinto injection block and the walls are standard thickeness

If you look through the same hole on an RS500 (small core plug on the sides) block you will notice that the walls of the cylinder thicken as you drop down and this is the same of the 200 block

It was only the RS500 version of the 205 and the 200 block that had the thickening on the cylinder wall - and it is this thickening which allows the cylinder head bolt holes to be drilled right through for long studding

The later transits had the 202 block but this was nothing special

 

Cheers for that, all has now come clear now, looks like my mate has a standard 205 block, thats going to please him

we will just stick in the ARP head stud and nut kit, thanks all for the info

 

Depending on how much power he wants a ARP kit will be fine.
tabetha

 

he is running GT30, pollised and ported head, swidish plenum,bd 14 cams, cosworth pistons with valve cut out 7.2:1 compresion, 4 layer head gasket ect, hoping to make 550bhp ish, do u think the ARP studs are up for the job?

 

...the 205 block will fail at that power...

 

It would be wise to use the 4wd block, at that power.
The 2wd block can certainly produce far in excess of that power, but is like plasticine at that level.
I would not personally go over 370/400 with a 2wd block.
tabetha

 

In the past it has runn a T4 at 500bhp ish and the GT30 and its held up so far

 

brom used a 205 block arp kit ect for 520 bhp hard track use for ages . people get so sold on a 4x4 block where the only advantages is a thick waist

was told by jeremy at cosworth ages ago that theres loads of people run 205s at big power and havnt suffered weakness but he did say that the best block to have if was into spending money was the ybp block due to the oil spray for the pistons and slightly better cast

 

your right there mate because the block in question is the one out of broms old saff and the head

 

paul @nyrs also comented a while ago that when ever he has seen a 200/205 block fail there 98% in the same places , back right hand corner and front left corner

also richie(b9kos) is runing a 205 block in his saff with a 4x4 quaif box okay its 400 bhp but they say you cant run a 4x4 drive train on a 2wd block it will rip it apart so thats another for the it cant be done book

 

Has anyone ever cracked a 200 block then?

Ive done a 2wd block between water jackets and head bolts

 

thats where paul recons they all go front water jacket to bolt and the rear

 

Put a big ratchet strap round em

 

well this block has held up fine considering the beating Brom gave it on track but thought it was best to long stud for reliablilty more than anything but it is not to be

 

well the prob is because the yb has a floating head (no dowls) the head will move under big boost (turbo) aplications and i dont think anyone has reported a power past broms on arp kit long stud is general fav with the 200 amonst the masses

my point is they will take the hammering around 500 bhp as you know brom proved that

 

mine cracked a wee bit over 300bhp!

 

Brooklyn used to use 205 blocks for their 2.4 conversion and the only probs they ever had was people overtightening the power steering bracket thus breaking that bit of the block off. Mine has standard bolts and a ybo611 gasket and its run 2 bar since last august no probs. And done alot of motorway miles as well. Its been launched a few times as well Just breaks front shafts instead

 

Mine has just been linered by mountune due to cracking in number 4,and its the ybp block guess im just unlucky.......just awaiting rings to be coated then its time for some boost