Wheel wobble still there! Could it be CV's or wheel bearings
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Right, replaced the spigots, tires, bushes and bottom ball joints. Wheels still wobble at 50 and over. So process of elimination can only mean either CV's or wheel bearings.
As the car is driven cold the wheels don't wobble as much but after 3 miles the problem gets worse. Could it be the CV's or wheel bearings?
Cheers
As the car is driven cold the wheels don't wobble as much but after 3 miles the problem gets worse. Could it be the CV's or wheel bearings?
Cheers
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From: isle of wight
have u used a DTI runout gauge and cheked that the hub is runing true ? if not could be a buckled rim have u tryed puting the back to rims on the front and see what happens ? or another set of wheels to see if it still is hapaning
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Tried a different set of wheels and the problem is still there just not as much because of the standard rims being a much higher profile tire.
I'm at a loss what it could be now!
I'm at a loss what it could be now!
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Thread Starter
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Originally Posted by fatmike
havent a clue thear mate soz
have u had the wheels balanced
Cheers. No bother pal, they've been balanced about 5 times in 10 days and the rims are new. Got me baffled.
had exactly the same problem recently it was a sticky caliper on the drivers front on mine
sounds weird i know but it wasn't pulling to one side or anything, was shaking like mad once driven for a few miles but fine when cold
when the pads were changed did the piston(s) go back easily? is it 2wd or 4wd?
sounds weird i know but it wasn't pulling to one side or anything, was shaking like mad once driven for a few miles but fine when cold when the pads were changed did the piston(s) go back easily? is it 2wd or 4wd?
Have you tried a different set of wheels???? Or tried these wheels on another car??
I bought a brand new set of wheels that did exactly the same thing. The wheels had been made badly. Sent them back and ended up getting no new wheels in return and no refund
Robbing bastard. I'd put this to the back of my mind. Nuff said. Used a credit card ever since.
I bought a brand new set of wheels that did exactly the same thing. The wheels had been made badly. Sent them back and ended up getting no new wheels in return and no refund
Robbing bastard. I'd put this to the back of my mind. Nuff said. Used a credit card ever since.
it'll probably be the actual hub face itself
new ones cured the problem on the estate bt they were around the £100 each side plus bearings etc
remove the discs and clean the face where it mounts up properly with a wire grinder so that you can see the casting marks in it
it might be worth even knocking the studs out and making sure it's all smoth before getting new studs put back in again (at around 32 per stud it's cheaper than new hubs)
new ones cured the problem on the estate bt they were around the £100 each side plus bearings etc
remove the discs and clean the face where it mounts up properly with a wire grinder so that you can see the casting marks in it
it might be worth even knocking the studs out and making sure it's all smoth before getting new studs put back in again (at around 32 per stud it's cheaper than new hubs)
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Originally Posted by s1 dean
had exactly the same problem recently it was a sticky caliper on the drivers front on mine
sounds weird i know but it wasn't pulling to one side or anything, was shaking like mad once driven for a few miles but fine when cold
when the pads were changed did the piston(s) go back easily? is it 2wd or 4wd?
sounds weird i know but it wasn't pulling to one side or anything, was shaking like mad once driven for a few miles but fine when cold when the pads were changed did the piston(s) go back easily? is it 2wd or 4wd?
Thread Starter
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Originally Posted by J9BBY
Have you tried a different set of wheels???? Or tried these wheels on another car??
I bought a brand new set of wheels that did exactly the same thing. The wheels had been made badly. Sent them back and ended up getting no new wheels in return and no refund
Robbing bastard. I'd put this to the back of my mind. Nuff said. Used a credit card ever since.
I bought a brand new set of wheels that did exactly the same thing. The wheels had been made badly. Sent them back and ended up getting no new wheels in return and no refund
Robbing bastard. I'd put this to the back of my mind. Nuff said. Used a credit card ever since.
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Originally Posted by Cawood
what about the TCA's? i had this prob n found it to be them
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Originally Posted by dojj
it'll probably be the actual hub face itself
new ones cured the problem on the estate bt they were around the £100 each side plus bearings etc
remove the discs and clean the face where it mounts up properly with a wire grinder so that you can see the casting marks in it
it might be worth even knocking the studs out and making sure it's all smoth before getting new studs put back in again (at around 32 per stud it's cheaper than new hubs)
new ones cured the problem on the estate bt they were around the £100 each side plus bearings etc
remove the discs and clean the face where it mounts up properly with a wire grinder so that you can see the casting marks in it
it might be worth even knocking the studs out and making sure it's all smoth before getting new studs put back in again (at around 32 per stud it's cheaper than new hubs)
Originally Posted by LeviA
Originally Posted by dojj
it'll probably be the actual hub face itself
new ones cured the problem on the estate bt they were around the £100 each side plus bearings etc
remove the discs and clean the face where it mounts up properly with a wire grinder so that you can see the casting marks in it
it might be worth even knocking the studs out and making sure it's all smoth before getting new studs put back in again (at around 32 per stud it's cheaper than new hubs)
new ones cured the problem on the estate bt they were around the £100 each side plus bearings etc
remove the discs and clean the face where it mounts up properly with a wire grinder so that you can see the casting marks in it
it might be worth even knocking the studs out and making sure it's all smoth before getting new studs put back in again (at around 32 per stud it's cheaper than new hubs)

don't worry, it could also be the inner tca bushes, the actual crossmember that has shifted, a wieght missing from the driveshaft
no one has mentioned checked the front prop for play, do that as well otherwise you may be needing new ankles
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
[/quote]
welcome to cosworth
don't worry, it could also be the inner tca bushes, the actual crossmember that has shifted, a wieght missing from the driveshaft
no one has mentioned checked the front prop for play, do that as well otherwise you may be needing new ankles
[/quote]
The wobble is more through the steering wheel than the floor pan, until you do about 60/70 then less so through the steering wheel and more through the chassis.
I just hope this Cosworth isn't as much of a money pit as the one in this photo was. God I despised that car so much lol
welcome to cosworth
don't worry, it could also be the inner tca bushes, the actual crossmember that has shifted, a wieght missing from the driveshaft
no one has mentioned checked the front prop for play, do that as well otherwise you may be needing new ankles
[/quote]The wobble is more through the steering wheel than the floor pan, until you do about 60/70 then less so through the steering wheel and more through the chassis.
I just hope this Cosworth isn't as much of a money pit as the one in this photo was. God I despised that car so much lol
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Originally Posted by dojj
have you swaped the wheels around? as in side to side rather than front to back?
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