Problems with Fiesta RS Turbo - Bought today!
#1
Problems with Fiesta RS Turbo - Bought today!
Well, here's the bastard!!
I picked it today, or I was planning to, but there are already two things going wrong with it:
First, the cooling fan does not start, so the temp keeps climbing to the red area!
Second, the car misfires badly, so much it is uncapable of going from A to B.
First the car did not start, I cranked it, it rev around 500rpm for 2 secs and died.
Then I disconnected the MAP sensor(I think), no change.
After I disconnected the trottle position switch, it came to life, but with a high idle, around 1,5K, and very lumpy. I thought it was the cold start feature, but then I disconnected the fifth injector (I think) next to the trottle body, and the idle remained high!
So I decided to try it on the road.
If I drive it very smoothly, with very light trottle, the engine do not misfire, but as soon as I dip the trottle just a little bit more, I misfires badly and almost stalls.
The car had 1/4 tank!
Oh another thing, the fuel pump is very loud as I turn the key on, at least compared to what I'm used to.
I don't know if these are comon faults or not, as this car is just a big question mark for me!
I ordered the Haynes manual to get some lights about it, but I have to wait for September to collected it.
But what I need urgently is the electrical schemes...
Any clues will be most appreciated![]
I picked it today, or I was planning to, but there are already two things going wrong with it:
First, the cooling fan does not start, so the temp keeps climbing to the red area!
Second, the car misfires badly, so much it is uncapable of going from A to B.
First the car did not start, I cranked it, it rev around 500rpm for 2 secs and died.
Then I disconnected the MAP sensor(I think), no change.
After I disconnected the trottle position switch, it came to life, but with a high idle, around 1,5K, and very lumpy. I thought it was the cold start feature, but then I disconnected the fifth injector (I think) next to the trottle body, and the idle remained high!
So I decided to try it on the road.
If I drive it very smoothly, with very light trottle, the engine do not misfire, but as soon as I dip the trottle just a little bit more, I misfires badly and almost stalls.
The car had 1/4 tank!
Oh another thing, the fuel pump is very loud as I turn the key on, at least compared to what I'm used to.
I don't know if these are comon faults or not, as this car is just a big question mark for me!
I ordered the Haynes manual to get some lights about it, but I have to wait for September to collected it.
But what I need urgently is the electrical schemes...
Any clues will be most appreciated![]
#2
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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the long silver thing on the side of the inlet with a pipe going back to the charge carrier is the (ISCV) IDLE SPEED CONTROL VALVE Jay off this forum has created a guide to recondition this at home:
CLICK FOR GUIDE
this car sounds to me that it needs a new pump which can be sourced easy from www.ebay.co.uk don't know what the ebay in your country is like for these parts???
Then get it set up and all should be fine
CLICK FOR GUIDE
this car sounds to me that it needs a new pump which can be sourced easy from www.ebay.co.uk don't know what the ebay in your country is like for these parts???
Then get it set up and all should be fine
#3
Thank you for your help!
I've just looked to the guide you directed me, and that seem like a very good spot to start.
Well, no ebay.pt yet, but I've checked the ebay.co.uk and there are a few options concerning the pump. I believe the pump is the same in the XR2I, and RS1800, right?
I've just looked to the guide you directed me, and that seem like a very good spot to start.
Well, no ebay.pt yet, but I've checked the ebay.co.uk and there are a few options concerning the pump. I believe the pump is the same in the XR2I, and RS1800, right?
#5
I've checked the compression, and it's ok, and even on all cilinders.
I'm going to change the fuel filter just to be sure. And now I'm looking for a TPS to test it, but here in Portugal these cars are hard to find, specially in scarpyards. I've even tried Escorts with 1.4 EFI engines, but with no success! Ebay wasn't helpfull in this issue...
The problem with the radiator fan was due to the lack of the termostat connector, and the wires were not connected. I need to sort that out too!
I'm going to change the fuel filter just to be sure. And now I'm looking for a TPS to test it, but here in Portugal these cars are hard to find, specially in scarpyards. I've even tried Escorts with 1.4 EFI engines, but with no success! Ebay wasn't helpfull in this issue...
The problem with the radiator fan was due to the lack of the termostat connector, and the wires were not connected. I need to sort that out too!
#6
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cheers for the link to the guide mate
common faults are the green relay, so watch out for it if the fans stop working along with reverse light etc, if it does clean the pins on the relay.
i think you have the next common problem with the fan thermo switch plug, most people yank the plug off by the wires which break them internaly, so a new plug may be needed.
as for bad running problems, it does sound pump related, but a duff MAP sensor can cause that also.
other things to check, would be the water temp sensor in the back on the inlet manifold at the bottom, this is what tells the ecu what temp the engine is so it gives it more fuel etc to isdel right, its like a senosr for a choke if you want.
the other sensor is the air temp sensor, that is located just to the right i=of the throttle body, they can cause problems too.
as far as the TPS goes, it can cause bad idel problems when faulty, but it mainly causes flat spots, but the good news is, any EFI car that shares the same throttle bodie, thats any EFI cvh engine, the TPS is the same, so 1400 fiesta SI's, escort EFI xr3i's, xr2i's.
also, is the ecu chipped? if it is, remove the chip to see if it runs better, to see if its chipped, have a look under the passanger side of the dash at the bottom of the ECU, the chips are plug in so you should see it if theres one in there
common faults are the green relay, so watch out for it if the fans stop working along with reverse light etc, if it does clean the pins on the relay.
i think you have the next common problem with the fan thermo switch plug, most people yank the plug off by the wires which break them internaly, so a new plug may be needed.
as for bad running problems, it does sound pump related, but a duff MAP sensor can cause that also.
other things to check, would be the water temp sensor in the back on the inlet manifold at the bottom, this is what tells the ecu what temp the engine is so it gives it more fuel etc to isdel right, its like a senosr for a choke if you want.
the other sensor is the air temp sensor, that is located just to the right i=of the throttle body, they can cause problems too.
as far as the TPS goes, it can cause bad idel problems when faulty, but it mainly causes flat spots, but the good news is, any EFI car that shares the same throttle bodie, thats any EFI cvh engine, the TPS is the same, so 1400 fiesta SI's, escort EFI xr3i's, xr2i's.
also, is the ecu chipped? if it is, remove the chip to see if it runs better, to see if its chipped, have a look under the passanger side of the dash at the bottom of the ECU, the chips are plug in so you should see it if theres one in there
#7
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Was it definately the TPS that you disconnected ??, as they won't run properly with this disconnected, i would try a new TPS or Map sensor.
My fan swich used to play us all the time, got to a point where i wired a switch in just incase !!!
A common problem not engine related : Also worth checking your gearbox mounts are ok, i remeber being stranded when they were worn and let the engine move enough for the alternator to wear through the water hose late one night !!, oh yeah plus the crossover pipe usually dents your bonnet !!
My fan swich used to play us all the time, got to a point where i wired a switch in just incase !!!
A common problem not engine related : Also worth checking your gearbox mounts are ok, i remeber being stranded when they were worn and let the engine move enough for the alternator to wear through the water hose late one night !!, oh yeah plus the crossover pipe usually dents your bonnet !!
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#8
After a day in many scrapyards, I collected:
- the connector that was missing in the thermostat
- a TPS from a '92 Escort RS2000 (not sure if it's compatible)
- fuel pump from a Fiesta RS 1800
Plus, I spoke to the mechanic that used to take care of the car, and he told me that the problem the diagnosis machine was telling was related to a bad fuel pressure regulator. The previous owner did not want to spent any more money on the car, so he sold it like it was. He also told me that the car has a new MAP sensor, new head gasket and a new turbo.
So, I'll start with the fuel pump, and see how it reacts. If I don't get any success, I'm changing the fuel pressure regulator for the POWER BOOST VALVE from Burtonpower.
Any car here fittted with this?
- the connector that was missing in the thermostat
- a TPS from a '92 Escort RS2000 (not sure if it's compatible)
- fuel pump from a Fiesta RS 1800
Plus, I spoke to the mechanic that used to take care of the car, and he told me that the problem the diagnosis machine was telling was related to a bad fuel pressure regulator. The previous owner did not want to spent any more money on the car, so he sold it like it was. He also told me that the car has a new MAP sensor, new head gasket and a new turbo.
So, I'll start with the fuel pump, and see how it reacts. If I don't get any success, I'm changing the fuel pressure regulator for the POWER BOOST VALVE from Burtonpower.
Any car here fittted with this?
#9
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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guys talking toss, there is no way a diagnosis machine can snese if the fuel pressure reg is naffed.
dont waste your time on a power boost valve, its a waste of time money and effort, the std fuel pressure regulators are adjustable, if the pressure is low then the fuel pump will be the cause unless someone has messed with the fuel reg already, if they have, then its a case of adjusting it up, but dont mess with it, you can make it run rich or lean.
if the diagnosis machine is reading a lean mix this is not due to the fuel reg, it will be the pump.
when my pump went, it worked still but pressure was very low and it ran like crap, fitted a upreated pump and it drove like a new car.
save yas money, a power boost valve is useless as you have a adjustable one already
dont waste your time on a power boost valve, its a waste of time money and effort, the std fuel pressure regulators are adjustable, if the pressure is low then the fuel pump will be the cause unless someone has messed with the fuel reg already, if they have, then its a case of adjusting it up, but dont mess with it, you can make it run rich or lean.
if the diagnosis machine is reading a lean mix this is not due to the fuel reg, it will be the pump.
when my pump went, it worked still but pressure was very low and it ran like crap, fitted a upreated pump and it drove like a new car.
save yas money, a power boost valve is useless as you have a adjustable one already
#11
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yeah no probs mate.
if it should turn out the fuel reg is naffed, (which i cant see) i have a spare in the shed which i can always sell ya
if it should turn out the fuel reg is naffed, (which i cant see) i have a spare in the shed which i can always sell ya
#12
New fuel pump, new fuel filter, same symptoms!!!
I try to mess with the fuel pressure regulator, and nothing new... and the RS2000 TPS is not compatible.
The fan problem is solved, though!
I'll post some pics and vids to show what's happening...
I try to mess with the fuel pressure regulator, and nothing new... and the RS2000 TPS is not compatible.
The fan problem is solved, though!
I'll post some pics and vids to show what's happening...
#13
This is the fuel pressure regulator, it had a wierd metal layer on top of the allen screw:
Then I removed the metal with a knife:
Was that metal layer supposed to be there?!
Now the vids:
1st one shows when I try to rev the engine: light trottle, I goes up; a little more, and it missfires.
2nd is when I plug the TPS and the engie starts losing revs till it stalls.
Sorry for the low quality of image and sound, but they were captured through a mobile.
Then I removed the metal with a knife:
Was that metal layer supposed to be there?!
Now the vids:
1st one shows when I try to rev the engine: light trottle, I goes up; a little more, and it missfires.
2nd is when I plug the TPS and the engie starts losing revs till it stalls.
Sorry for the low quality of image and sound, but they were captured through a mobile.
#15
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i would say you need a new TPS.
other than that it could be a faulty speed sensor.
tbh, a number of sensors could be to blaim, can you get a check done on it?
other than that it could be a faulty speed sensor.
tbh, a number of sensors could be to blaim, can you get a check done on it?
#16
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Try unplugging the engine temperature sensor at the back of the inlet manifold and see if it runs any better.
Do you have a multimeter? If so you can use it to test the TPS before you fork out for a new one.
Do you have a multimeter? If so you can use it to test the TPS before you fork out for a new one.
#17
Did you ever get this car fixed? I have the exact same problem. Hard to start when you do it get started it will not rev up just bogs out but if you unplug the tps it fires straight up and will rev up if your gentle with the throttle soon as you plug back in it dies any ideas? Iv tried changing the tps still the same
#18
10K+ Poster!!
Did you ever get this car fixed? I have the exact same problem. Hard to start when you do it get started it will not rev up just bogs out but if you unplug the tps it fires straight up and will rev up if your gentle with the throttle soon as you plug back in it dies any ideas? Iv tried changing the tps still the same
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