Question for carb masters, ford escort 1.6 cvh, weber 28/32 TLDM problems.
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Question for carb masters, ford escort 1.6 cvh, weber 28/32 TLDM problems.
Hello, recently i got a hold on Weber TLDM 28/32 with inlet manifold. It was taken from 1.4 1988 escort (mk4). But it was straight fit so i tired it out, but there are some problems with it.
1. First - When engine isnt fully warm opening choke results in engine dying, even if its 20 celcius outside. Plus it gathers some dew on choke valve.
2. Quickly pushing gas results in engine stalling and like "throwing" out some air back, nearly dying and after about 1 second lag it reacts, pushing it evenly everything is ok.
3. When engine is fully warm u can open choke (its manual) and engine dont die, but then floating RPM happen, they float from 1,300 to 800. Engine can even die sometimes and wont start until u close choke again.
I filmed what happens here are links:
When choke is closed, engine cold
When choke is fully opened, engine warm, floating RPM
Since im really bad with carbs i think i might have messed something up.
P.s Carb before was problematic "Ford VV" with automatic choke, I still have it so if all else fails there is no other way, looking for as much suggestions as possible.
Some photos, they are messy - sorry.
Carb close look
Overview of all the vacuum mess
Green color represents vacuum hoses going to brake "bubble" thingy and another goes to distributor.
All other color represent their original "connectors and hoses" colors which are there
Blue and Red hoses go to "Christmas tree" connector under the carb.
White is really strange i have no idea what it is doing and if its connected right, but i connected everything based only on their connectors and hoses colors
Close up of white thingy and its strange thingies.
1.
Strange connected mess, red hose goes up from "Christmas tree" connector and connects to vacuum from distributor, another green line goes to choke connector.
The green dotted line is the continuation of the green vacuum line from distributor which meets red hose in picture above and ends there.
The red/green one is connected to distributor vacuum.
What any of these colors mean - I have no idea. Any info would be gladly appreciated, because i suck badly at this.
1. First - When engine isnt fully warm opening choke results in engine dying, even if its 20 celcius outside. Plus it gathers some dew on choke valve.
2. Quickly pushing gas results in engine stalling and like "throwing" out some air back, nearly dying and after about 1 second lag it reacts, pushing it evenly everything is ok.
3. When engine is fully warm u can open choke (its manual) and engine dont die, but then floating RPM happen, they float from 1,300 to 800. Engine can even die sometimes and wont start until u close choke again.
I filmed what happens here are links:
When choke is closed, engine cold
When choke is fully opened, engine warm, floating RPM
Since im really bad with carbs i think i might have messed something up.
P.s Carb before was problematic "Ford VV" with automatic choke, I still have it so if all else fails there is no other way, looking for as much suggestions as possible.
Some photos, they are messy - sorry.
Carb close look
Overview of all the vacuum mess
Green color represents vacuum hoses going to brake "bubble" thingy and another goes to distributor.
All other color represent their original "connectors and hoses" colors which are there
Blue and Red hoses go to "Christmas tree" connector under the carb.
White is really strange i have no idea what it is doing and if its connected right, but i connected everything based only on their connectors and hoses colors
Close up of white thingy and its strange thingies.
1.
Strange connected mess, red hose goes up from "Christmas tree" connector and connects to vacuum from distributor, another green line goes to choke connector.
The green dotted line is the continuation of the green vacuum line from distributor which meets red hose in picture above and ends there.
The red/green one is connected to distributor vacuum.
What any of these colors mean - I have no idea. Any info would be gladly appreciated, because i suck badly at this.
#2
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
That "white thingy" looks wrong from what I can remember, think it should connect to the underside of the air filter but I could be wrong, pretty sure it shouldn't connect one part of the carb to another though as it looks as if yours does
Is it a Mk3 Escort, cos of the age can't you just throw all that Xmas tree crap away & keep it simple? Someone on here should know
Stating the obvious first job check you've got no air leaks
Is it a Mk3 Escort, cos of the age can't you just throw all that Xmas tree crap away & keep it simple? Someone on here should know
Stating the obvious first job check you've got no air leaks
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Thanks for reply ill check for vacuum leaks tomorrow.
What did you mean by getting rid of the "Christmas tree" thingy. Is it even possible? I have no knowledge of carbs so modifications for them are like magic for me
P.s yes its mk3 escort.
What did you mean by getting rid of the "Christmas tree" thingy. Is it even possible? I have no knowledge of carbs so modifications for them are like magic for me
P.s yes its mk3 escort.
#4
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
I thought by that you meant the emissions stuff, all those small-bore black rubber tubes around carb & air filter and by xmas tree meant the inch-or-so long union where they all connect together? Hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I've run fords fine before without all that
Not that it's really made any odds when I've had it before though think I just plugged it in wherever I could find places to plug it & made no difference...seal up any open inlets for tubes left on the carb or manifold though cos they'll weaken the mixture badly if left open
Not that it's really made any odds when I've had it before though think I just plugged it in wherever I could find places to plug it & made no difference...seal up any open inlets for tubes left on the carb or manifold though cos they'll weaken the mixture badly if left open
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Ok so i have some news, there was an open hole, where vacuum was - it had to go to the air filter box and another hose to the engine, now two problems got solved so easily.
It can run without choke even when cold now, RPM isnt jumping around, mixture screw started to actually its job.
Everything seems perfect, but one problem still remains - Pushing quickly gas results in engine dying or stalling, i checked the membrane and its fine, it should squirt gas but it does not and i have an idea its a vacuum problem.
(Blue one is connected to that membrane which should squirt the gas, when pushed hard, but i dont think its working and have no idea why.
It can run without choke even when cold now, RPM isnt jumping around, mixture screw started to actually its job.
Everything seems perfect, but one problem still remains - Pushing quickly gas results in engine dying or stalling, i checked the membrane and its fine, it should squirt gas but it does not and i have an idea its a vacuum problem.
(Blue one is connected to that membrane which should squirt the gas, when pushed hard, but i dont think its working and have no idea why.
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