pauloopnorth

As above my 1600i now wont start - The car was always a great starter but during a recent spate of work on the car I have replaced the accumulator the fuel filter the banjo joints and nuts on the metering head and the air feed pipe to the throttle body from the metering head and the throttle body itself ,and it still started instantly but was idling very high , I then found that after it had been idling 10 - 15 minutes or so it would die , and would not start again till much later or usually the next day when it would start straight away again ,I tried reducing the revs by winding in the screw on the throttle body and this dropped the revs slightly ,but I found that the time the car was running before it started struggling and died was getting shorter
so I then adjusted the 3mm allen key mixture screw on the metering head just after the car fired up and as soon as I touched that it died and now will not even get close to firing up , Does anybody have any tips advice or wisdom ,other than getting the yellow pages out and finding a bosch specialist as it would be much appreciated

mk2grp1

a high idle could indicate you didn`t get a perfect seal when you replaced the throttle body, an air leak , ,
why change it anyway, have you fitted a bigger body ?

pauloopnorth

Fairly sure it was sealed correctly I used a new ford gasket and a new air feed pipe - and I changed it as the old one looked very old dirty and with rusted brackets and screws etc so I just wanted to freshen it up while I was doing the rest of the engine bay

XR2

Could have a lots of causes.

First you should check for spark after the engine died and take a look at the spark plugs. Dry/wet?

When they're wet there's something wrong with the ECU, the twin coils or the wiring.

When they're dry the K-Jetronic is the cause. ->
Don't think it's an air leak. Engine would run bad all the time and not just after 10 minutes.
Are the fuel lines connected correctly to the metering unit? Usually you can't do anything wrong, but I've seen a lot of things... Did you keep the fuel lines and the banjo connectors?
Have you forgotten to connect any connector of the wiring loom? Especially warm-up regulator, temperature switch AND: overrun cut-off valve and the sensor on the throttle body. OR: Did you mix up the connectors of some of these devices? Usually the'yre color coded.

tony66

iTrader: (7)

as above-check its a fuel issue first
then power up pump from independant source so it runs when you want...

remove injectors-depress plate-check for fuel/spray etc
could be a lump of rubbish in metering head or similar

just need to run through it all bit by bit-methodically

stephenb4506

process of elimination replace old parts one by one till it runs, if it still as ecu remember these are sensitive also check starter motor as the can cause restart problem when hot /you could also try lifting the the sensor plate slightly while someone turns the engine over this will lift the small piston like plunger under the metering unit allowing more than usual fuel to injectors /also be carefull here though, disconnect the battery if you have tried starting the car there should still be pressure in the system ,undo each bango (separatly)to see if you have fuel getting through use some rags as you undo each one .i would say ecu..is the culprit, then fuel relay (you can bridge this by connect terminal 30-87 on the relay if i remember )check first always be safety conscious...

pauloopnorth

Thank you to everybody that has offered advice ,but after trying most of the above and spending going on for a week fighting in one way or another with its faults I have decided its above my skill and knowledge level ,so I have booked the car in for some professional help ,hopefully it will get sorted that way