jon_d_h

Hi all

I have fitted a new timing belt and tensioner to my sapphire cosworth engine which is not in my car at the moment. Since fitting it, I have got hold of the cosworth manual and looked at the timing marks on the pullys and have a feeling that the distributor pully is out by 1 tooth. As this is the first engine I have done with a distributor pully :/. So piston 1 was tdc, the 2 cam pullys arrows pointed a teach other (not perfectly parrallel?? Is that ok?) and the crank pully key way was at the top of the crank shaft. On removing the belt, I noticed the distributor pully which was sort of pointing 10 o'clock (the manual says it should be about 2 o clock).

So put all back together and turn engine and am looking at rotor arm and when piston one is at tdc, the rotor arm is well onto the point for the ht lead going to piston 1. I feel I have the distributor pully 1 or 2 teeth out?? And it is 90 degrees out to what the manual is saying? It is as if the distributor has been moved 90 degrees away from where the manual says.

How can I tell and how can I set up the position of the distributor?

Thanks

tony66

iTrader: (7)

no 1 piston @ tdc assuming basic belt timing correct
rotor arm should point to no 1 on dist cap-iirc there is also a notch on dizzy body to line up rotor arm with-its marked on the timing sprocket for dizzy too

jon_d_h

Hi there, my rotor arm does point to no 1 point but is well onto is as if it would fire too early that is why I think it is 1 or 2 teeth out. i can't tell how to accurately line the rotor arm up with the mark on the dizzy as the rotor arm is about 10mm wide. Or do I just line it up with the Middle of the arm?

tony66

iTrader: (7)

middle thereabouts will do nicely
remember and use correct timing mark on bottom pulley[the lump]
-looking through the dizzy drive there is a pointer arrow on the drive sprocket-i assume you are using that
turn it over twice by hand it may well line up better with belt settled-and you can check for interference
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...oZ9yzxZIh254zA

jon_d_h

Right, here are where my pullies are. The cam shafts point at each other but are not perfect as they both point up slightly. The crank looks to be out comparing it to the diagram you have provided but im pretty sure this is where it came off as when i took the belt of, the cams and crank were solid :/ and the distributor is way out compared to that diagram but it hardly moved when removing belt. mine points about 10 oclock but inside the cap, the rotor arm looks to have just gone past the mark so I think this needs moving back anticlock wise so the rotor arm is just coming up to the mark????

Any help/advice

Thanks

Cossy Mike

iTrader: (4)

Pull the dizzy out of the block and turn it 1 tooth and push it back in, it should re align with the scribe mark on the casing.

The teeth on the dizzy shaft aren't straight they are curved.

The dizzy can technically go in anyway as long as the rotor arm lines up with the scribe mark.

Cossy Mike

iTrader: (4)

Also the tooth on the dizzy pulley should be around 2 o'clock, it'll line up on a half moon on the casing behind it. Then drop your dizzy shaft in the block....

tony66

iTrader: (7)

check your woodruff key etc is ok in crank-bottom pulley looks wrongly timed
you can measure tdc with a gauge to be sure

jon_d_h

Ok, so before I removed it, I marked up where the crank and cams were and they went back together as it came apart. This confuses me as to me they look wrong to the timing marks. I can see how the distributor is out so I will re-align this on the pully and have it so that it just makes the scribed mark as it turns clockwise??

So should I get all the shafts into a position where they all point to where they should? Do the cans lol as if they are a tooth out to each other too?

The key ways have no play in them and the engine does turn over without any problems.

tony66

iTrader: (7)

i would do it as it should be-some cams require timing set up differently but if yours are std i would set it up as per factory marks,its not far away atm
looks like somebody has had it timed up to wrong mark on bottom pulley and has perhaps been messing with dizzy
once you have done this i would check the leads are correct order on cap too prior to firing it up..

jon_d_h

Thanks for all help and advice. Timed up now spot on. Everything aligned.

Cheers

Jon

Non custom

Make sure the oil pump drive wheel also has the pointer on the dot otherwise your pistons won't get cooled down by the spray bar
Shown as aux in pic below

And as said beforehand crank pully looks off there too

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mano...Marks.jpg.html

col93saphcos

iTrader: (2)

as said crank looks wrong,should be on the lug not the v,
col

jon_d_h

I'm a bit confused with this :/ the aux pully on mine is for the distributor. Does it also do the oil pump? I don't actually have a dot on mine but can see by the photos where it needs to point.

Non custom

The aux drive is what rotates the distributor and also the drive for the oil pump

The aux wheel has an arrow like the cam wheels do when you look closely at the pointer arrow on the aux wheel it will line up with a raised circle on the cover behind wheel

Once this and everything else is lined up make sure the rotor arm in dizzy points to the notch cutout in the body of the dizzy if not twist dizzy slightly with cap off till it does
Rotor arm should be on no1 when fitting cap on then

Hope this clears it up a little

Cossy Mike

iTrader: (4)

If you pull the distributor shaft out of the block and look down into the block you'll see the oil pump drive.

It's a female Allen head. The bottom of you distributor shaft will be the same.

There should be a bar to connect the 2 together. It'll look like and Allen key but without the right angle on it.

This is how the aux pulley in turn, drives the oil pump.

megatron-uk

Very interesting! We're just fitting new pulleys and timing belt and have the same issue with the cam pulleys - when aligned as they should be, the belt doesn't fit.

Is there a definitive answer as to why the camshaft pulleys don't line up?

tony66

iTrader: (7)

looks a tooth out on one of top pulleys[half tooth on each?]-use a tie wrap to hold both together while setting
beware if using aftermarket cams as they sometimes dont get timed as standard.
did mine on a completely standard engine a few weeks ago it lined up far better than that tbh

Cossy Mike

iTrader: (4)

You need to put tension on the cam pulleys to bring them in....

Ie: exhaust side turn clockwise and inlet anti clockwise.

It's easier to do it with the cam cover off as it has a hex on the cam to get a spanner on.

When its timed up you find 8 valves fractionally open