Iain Mac

I think I have stumbled across a pair of 24v engines that I could put in the Sierra but which should I go for?

The BOA has the engine loom and ECU. The BOB is just the engine (I don't want the autoboxes, though they are still attached) as I will be using my 4x4 box, so know I'll need to use my current sump with oil pickup and two returns to be added.

Neither have run for years and are being sold as seen. The BOB has lost the V6 Cosworth engine cover and I haven't actually seen the BOA yet.

I'm really not that fussed about more power and the economy is neither here nor there.

From what I've read, the BOB is a more powerful and stronger engine but needs the BOA ECU or aftermarket management and I think the seller will mix and match, but how do I get past the thing that looks for the autobox?

Anyone have real-world experience of these?

And what sort of money should I be looking to pay?

Cossiemainful

iTrader: (1)

The BOA is more solid IMO, better chain drive, better loom etc.
But you can use some BOB parts like the cams etc. fore more power.

Ford improved the BOB chain drive from 1998, so make sure the engine is from a 1998 Scorpio.

Iain Mac

Well I finally pulled the trigger and bought a BOB from a 1998 Scorpio but...the engine was removed by a cut-everything engineer so I will need some guidance on what vacuum pipes, water hoses and cables need to go where. Car will come off the road late October then i have allwinter to swap gearbox, flywheel, 4x4 sump etc.

I do have the ECU but I've read that it will be looking for a signal from a non-existant autobox and probably PATS will be a PITA so is it best to go for an aftermarket ECU? If so, anyone selling one or have any recommendations? How much should I expect to pay

jsa

PM dave on eectuning to see where he got to.

http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopi...7593b73a9fc1db

mk22door

It would be cheaper to find a BOA ECU and engine loom.

You wont control the VIS from that but could run a stand alone window switch to trigger & disable it.

I have a BOA'd 4x4 sump etc if you need any parts.

I might have a spare BOA ECU for you seeing as though you are one of the good ones, but no loom i'm afraid.

I assume you mean that you have a BOB ECU?

If so you will have trouble from the PATS system not letting you start the car etc.

As for the auto box thing, my 4x4 BOA only stalled a couple of times in two years, and I don't know if it was to do with that or not? You do read of some people having trouble though, guess you'll find out

dojj

iTrader: (3)

The stalling is from the brake on/brake off switch, as said, some have untold issues and others non at all

Iain Mac

I've spent this afternoon making space in the garage and have split the autobox and wheeled it out the back. Can't imagine anyone wanting it but it weighs a bit so could be heading to the scrappy.

I'll be taking the aircon pump off and the exhaust heatshields are history - bent, bashed, rotten.

Any ideas where I can find info about what the various cut pipes and hoses are meant to do? I suspect some of them aren't needed but I'd prefer to fix these while the engine is out.

My big worry right now is the wiring. The wiring loom to the gearbox looks like it was pinched against the bulkhead and a number of the wires are opened up. But this loom goes up the back of the engine and disappears under the inlet manifold, then it looks like a bigger bundle of wires comes out the front...



...where the cables have all been chopped! At least I know why I couldn't find the bulkhead plugs

I'll come back to you re the BOA ECU if I can't find a loom with an ECU. There is one on ebay but it doesn't look complete - I think it is only the injector wiring?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2821198883...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have a spare 12v engine that is donating the 4x4 sump and I know I need to drill and tap for the oil returns. I will take the oil pickup pipe from that too, along with the flywheel - is there anything else I need off that engine?

The 12v heads were skimmed before I put it all together but that was 10-15 years ago and I've never run it again since then so, unless anyone wants anything from it I reckon I'll be scrapping that too.

One more Q: will the XR4x4 rev counter work with the 24v? I took the instrument cluster but it is the later one with LCD screens on both rev counter and speedo so I'd rather not use it. Would an earlier 24v rev counter work?

dojj

iTrader: (3)

on the sump side you will ned to tap for the oil returns, ford did them under the oil line but the heads sometimes hold lots of oil and it needs a quicker way to come back so most put them in the front part, but this will foul the steering pipes

get a complete engine loom to the plugs

you can then splice into your pulugs if you have a 90 spec car and abve

you will need the clutch, flywheel, stater, flywheel bolts, clutch cable, pedal box from the 4x4, don't forget to threadlock the bolts for the flywheel when you fit them

the 4wd pipe up pie is different, not hte pump, so if you can change that it's enough, but make sure it's not bent and make sure you can braze it back where it goings the bit with the bolts to prevent it from slipping down the pie and cauing oil starvation issues

the rev copunter should work if you tap the correct wire, but it's a twin plug on teh bulkhead you need to get the ffed from, white plug, so if you don't have that it might be an issue

the 12v uses the coil for the revs where the 24v uses the coil pack so you need to use one of them

i'm abit dissed so it mike mate more sense in the morning