philwba

Please help
I have a 2010 Mk4 Mondeo 2000 TDCI 140BHP Zetec with 128,000 miles and full dealer service history.
The car is perfect except for a reoccuring problem.
Without warning, and for no apparent reason, the ESP light comes on and this is usually followed with engine malfunction and the car going into limp home mode.
It has happened about 7 or 8 times in about 3,000 miles and I have had a diagnostics which reveals U0001 (High speed CAN loss communication BUS) and U0415 (invalid data received from ABS)
The fault has occured 3 times at the same roundabout (which is strange) and only appears to happen at night (which is stranger)
The fault also has varying degrees of severity - sometimes the ESP light comes on and stays on and thats it - sometimes the ESP light is followed by the engine malfunction and going into limp home mode - sometimes the ESP light is followed by engine malfunction AND every light is flashing and every warning noise is bleeping and bonging and the car will only tick over - sometimes the EML is left on and other times nothing. The fault resets after turning the car off for a minute and restarting.
Anybody with any ideas or experienced a similar faulty
The fault usually occurs at 20-40MPH and at low revs - although it has happened going around the same roundabout 3 times it has also occured once on a smooth duel carriageway, going in a straight line at about 60MPH in 6th gear
Please help
Thank you
Phil
PS - On a cold morning or a cold evening after standing the car is a bit hard and lumpy at start up - it's fine after that - thought I'd mention it.

philwba

Anything guys? I'm desperate for some help - I love the car (except for this fault obviously) Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - Thanks

philwba

Ok, looks like nobody can help me, never mind I'll just sell it on - happy new year

GVK.

To be honest, with a fault that isn't repeatable, it would be hard to diagnose, it could be a fault in the ABS module, a fault in the high-speed can wiring/connectors,or even possibly a fault any of the other modules on the hi-speed can network.

Being so intermittent would make it hard work to diagnose 'confidently'.

philwba

Thanks for the post
To be honest I'm dont want to be paying for diagnostics to be told "theres a fault on your car but we're not sure what it is"
I thought someone else may have had something similar and could have given me some advice on what to look for 1st.
I've seen on other forums that it could be fuel/fuel filter - ABS sensor/speed sensor - Power control module/body control module - Jesus!!!
Thanks all the same I do appreciate it
Phil

GVK.

Replied to your pm.

GVK.

Be interested to see if any of the other hundreds of people who use Pf can offer any advice..

philwba

Fault codes Stored at last full diagnostics (early December)
Engine Managment
U0155 - Lost Comm with Instrument panel cluster IPC control module - No symptom intermittent
U0126 - Lost comm with steering angle sensor Module - No symptom intermittent
193D - Unknown
P2138 - Throttle position sensor/switch D/E voltage correlation - No symptom intermittent
P2125 - Throttle pedal poition sensor/switch E circuit - No symptom intermittent
P060D - Internal CM accelerator pedal performance - No symptom intermittent
U0129 - Lost comm with brake system CM - No Message, intermittent
U0135 - Ho2S heater control circuit (B1 S1) - internal fault - intermittent
U0135 - Ho2s heater control circuit (B1 S1) - short curcuit to ground pending
P0130 - Ho2s heater control curcuit (B1 S1) - open curcuit current
ABS
U0140 - Lost comm with body CM - No symptom intermittent
U0126 - Lost comm with steering angle sensor module - No symptom intermittent
Instrument Cluster
P1607 - MIL output circuit activation/sequence counter incorrect updated - event information - intermittent
U0422 - Invalid data received from body CM - event information - intermittent
U0401 - Invalid data received from ECM/PCM event information - intermittent
U0415 - Invalid data received from ABS CM - event information - intermittent
U0416 - Invalid data received from vehicle dynamic control module - event information - current

philwba

I know it looks a lot but the fact that the fault has occured 3 times at the same place (Beckingham roundabout at about 40MPH) indicates to me that it's a sensor or wire/connector that is detecting a fault at that certain angle/speed/pressure going around the island and is throwing up the other faults.
Eg - could the throttle sensor faults be due to the car going into limp home mode ?

The car drives great 99% of the time and has only happened about 7 or 8 times now in 4 - 5,000 miles (always at night (with headlights on?))
Any thoughts????

ste1806

All I can say is I had a similar problem with my focus, with the limp home and flashing lights dash like a disco. I removed the dash and cleaned the circuit board with cleaner from maplins and a toothbrush, and touch wood it has been fine since about 10 months.

GVK.

More codes than Bletchley park.

As said in PM, I would focus on the 'easy' stuff like the open circuit on 02 sensor first, and go from there.

Just to add, the U0416 code can be ignored unless car has VDM (electronically adjustable dampers)

'could' be an instrument cluster fault as the hi-speed can goes through it, but I'd start with the basics first. Also I'd check all connectors were possible that the hi-speed can passes through.

stuinweymouth

My 09 plate S-Max Tdci 2.0 was doing this intermittently at low revs and ESP light was on permanently.
I employed a mobile mechanic. This guy changed one of the 2 brake sensors (active/inactive) is the way he described it, recalibrated the steering as he said the steering wheel sensor was showing and changed a fuse to the ABS. Ł45 and touch wood hasn't done it since.

iantwj27

Hi would like to know whether you have solved the issue with your car?

I have sort of a similar problem with my Ford Focus 2.0 TDCI Mk2.5 yr 2010. Engine Malfunction, Transmission Malfunction, Check Engine Light and ESP light warning all came off out of nowhere and my mechanic is having a hard time to diagnose.

Sometimes the warnings will go off and the car is ok for a while and then the warning came off. Check for fault code only the EGR fault code came off. Which is weird.

May I know what you did to resolve your issue?

AD1987

Did this issue get resolved, because I have a similar issue with my 2011 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Zetec.
Had it happen twice in the last 6 months, got RAC out who just reset the fault and it is fine for about 2-3 months then happens again.

FAULTS:

System Type: ENGINE
Name: EOBD
DTC: U0415,Invalid data received - anti-lock brake system (ABS) control module

System Type: BRAKES
Name: ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM - DIAGNOSE
DTC: U0140,Lost communication with body control module
DTC: U0100,Lost communication with ECM/PCM "A"
DTC: U0126,Lost communication with steering angle sensor module
DTC: U0151,Lost Communication with Restraints Control Module
DTC: P1635,Tire/Axle Out of Acceptable Range

System Type: CHASSIS
Name: BODY CONTROL MODULE - DIAGNOSE TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING
DTC: U0001,High Speed CAN Communication Bus
DTC: U0100,Lost communication with ECM/PCM "A"
DTC: U0121,Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module

System Type: STEERING
Name: STEERING ANGLE SENSOR MODULE - DIAGNOSE
DTC: U0001,High Speed CAN Communication Bus
DTC: U0140,Lost communication with body control module

System Type: AIRBAG ELECTRONICS (SRS)
Name: AIRBAG - DIAGNOSE
DTC: U0001,High Speed CAN Communication Bus
DTC: U0121,Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module

mark826

Anybody thinking about maybe checking the batteries?

iantwj27

Hi, Yes it has been resolved. Faulty EGR motor. It seems that once it is spoiled it will trigger all the other sensors too as they can't get proper reading. Hence all the weird warnings.

Lesson here, sometimes u need to trust the computer.

Does the fault code for EGR pop out in your case?

fredos

same problems read bottom and is what sorted mine today
I have a 2011 Mondeo 1.8 TDCI 125BHP Zetec with 98,000 miles and full dealer service history.
The car is perfect except for a reoccuring problem.
Without warning, and for no apparent reason, the ESP light comes on and this is usually followed with engine malfunction and the car going into limp home mode.
It has happened about 7 or 8 times .
I have had a diagnostics which reveals U0001 (High speed CAN loss communication BUS) and U0415 (invalid data received from ABS)
The fault has occured lots times
The fault also has varying degrees of severity - sometimes the ESP light comes on and stays on and thats it - sometimes the ESP light is followed by the engine malfunction and going into limp home mode - sometimes the ESP light is followed by engine malfunction AND every light is flashing - sometimes the EML is left on and other times nothing. The fault resets after turning the car off for a minute and restarting.
Anybody with any ideas or experienced a similar faulty
The fault usually occurs at 20-40MPH and at low revs -
sometimes after it warms up it runs fine

been into garages lots of different suggestions but all seem wrong even told it was injectors at 1 point and i took me car back off em after trying to tell me it would take half a day to get injectors out and then send em off and another day to fit ,
so car chugged back home to drive 20 minutes later all injectors out and day after tested for under a Ł100 to be told injectors are all good{hey all resett now so money well spent and piece of mind garage says get them in and bring it up and we will diagnose it they did and told me it was a switch on the pump and it only around Ł80 and now it sorted
this is a belter of a garage service i would highly recommend as from start to finish they went straight to the fault and sorted it unlike the cowboys garages telling me i need a new fuel pump/injectors
im not sure if i can name the garage here but will reply to email if any1 needing the garage init is located in L407SD BURSCOUGH/ORMSKIRK
{FUEL PRESSURE SENSORS }and all good and running great -hope this will help others in same boat

Deltahero

This is quite stunning Phil; apart from the roundabout issue, this is exactly what's happening to my Ford Galaxy so I guess it's a Ford glitch. I've taken the problem to two local garages who've stuck the diagnostic tool on and have shrugged their shoulders, just suggesting a fuel filter issue, so I've had the filter changed twice. OK, there are minor differences. I can drive for 50 miles, keeping the revs under 2K and nothing happens, then overtake an even slower vehicle (Ford with same issue?) and the ESP light comes on, the car slowing quite violently, Some times the engine warning triangle comes on as well. I pull over, wait a minute and all's well. Prior to reading your issue, I was about to phone an expensive garage in desperation, knowing I'd spend a few hundred quid, and be told that in spite of the bill, there's nothing to be done, or spun a story. I've been through the replies to your original post and either I'm not up to some of the fixes, or I'm not confident they're similar enough, If you do discover what the issue is I'd kiss your feet as, like you I love my car but for this one scary fault.
Good luck to us both
Del

Steven Fox

I just read a thread that says canbus errors are a broken or corroded wire along the kickerplate drivers side footwell, you need to strip the tape off and pull the wires the canbus wires are the 2 twisted together...

Michael Garner

Hello di d u Eva find out wat the issue was Bec strangely I hav a warm none start issue wen once the car hits temp it won't start wen u turn it off an try to restart again not until the car has cooled bk down but also I've had the same recurring issues wiv the limp mode an esp light an now the limp mode is stook on permanently wiv engine malfunction an esp light on. It came out off it once a couple weeks ago wen I tried too giv it a little run an as soon as I went to turn it off after one last rev it came out of limp mode an I took the car bk out and it drove like the car I've always loved but trying to giv it a gud thrashing to clear any shit in the pipes it went straight bk in to limp mode again. It must only be a fuel filter or a sencer Bec for the car to go bk to driving perfectly it can't be nothing to damaging "I hope" any thoughts at all gud really be appreciated 🤗🤗🤗🤗

Michael Garner

Hello di d u Eva find out wat the issue was Bec strangely I hav a warm none start issue wen once the car hits temp it won't start wen u turn it off an try to restart again not until the car has cooled bk down but also I've had the same recurring issues wiv the limp mode an esp light an now the limp mode is stook on permanently wiv engine malfunction an esp light on. It came out off it once a couple weeks ago wen I tried too giv it a little run an as soon as I went to turn it off after one last rev it came out of limp mode an I took the car bk out and it drove like the car I've always loved but trying to giv it a gud thrashing to clear any shit in the pipes it went straight bk in to limp mode again. It must only be a fuel filter or a sencer Bec for the car to go bk to driving perfectly it can't be nothing to damaging "I hope" any thoughts at all gud really be appreciated 🤗🤗🤗🤗

Millkman74

I had this issue on my Ford C-max 2008, always on cold
mornings and would happen on the same road going to
work. The headlights would dim, then the ESP light and ABS light would come on followed by an engine Malfunction warning. Had to stop the car, switch off the engine (the turbo would wind down slowly and the interior lights would flicker).Gave it a minute, restarted and all was good.

I brought a cigarette lighter plug that displayed the Voltage.
I started the car on a cold night and put on the lights, heating, heating fan etc everything to simulate the travel
to work on a cold morning.

The car plugin showed me (before statup) that the voltage was at 12.6V and after startup at 14.6V which is about right. After a while I saw the voltage drop and rise like a
sinusoidal wave form (constantly dropping & rising) and the headlights dimmed with the voltage drop.

I started turning things off in the car and tried different combinations, in the end I discovered it was the internal heater element that was causing the issue, if I put on maximum heat.