Mondeo TDCI - Flashing Glow light?
13-11-2009, 09:29 AM
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Mondeo TDCI - Flashing Glow light?
Hi Peeps,
I have a mondeo mk3 tdci on an 04 plate and the diesel glow plug light has started to flash, also the engine warning light is on permantly
It started when I overtook someone yesterday, and it just lost all power and then the above lights came on. I think the ecu must have cut power to the turbo as it doesnt seem to be boosting since the lights came on, it is definatly nothing to do with the turbo
Any ideas what it could be?
How do I reset the ecu myself?
Cheers in advance
I have a mondeo mk3 tdci on an 04 plate and the diesel glow plug light has started to flash, also the engine warning light is on permantly
It started when I overtook someone yesterday, and it just lost all power and then the above lights came on. I think the ecu must have cut power to the turbo as it doesnt seem to be boosting since the lights came on, it is definatly nothing to do with the turbo
Any ideas what it could be?
How do I reset the ecu myself?
Cheers in advance
13-11-2009, 09:46 AM
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I belive its an injector problem, does it struggle to start from cold and smoke a bit??
Reason is i had an 03 TDCI and glow plug light flashed like that for no reason, turned out was an injector
Reason is i had an 03 TDCI and glow plug light flashed like that for no reason, turned out was an injector
15-11-2009, 06:54 AM
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update... Took the car to Stoneacre Ford yesterday so I could get a diagnostic, after an hour of them looking at my car and Ł60 lighter they said
"there is no definate fault code, we think it might be a blocked catalist or a knackered turbo or actuator"
I asked why they thought that and he said "it doesnt seem to be blowing enough"
They didnt give me any fault codes and had no problems taking my Ł60 off me to leave me none the wiser? mint.
"there is no definate fault code, we think it might be a blocked catalist or a knackered turbo or actuator"
I asked why they thought that and he said "it doesnt seem to be blowing enough"
They didnt give me any fault codes and had no problems taking my Ł60 off me to leave me none the wiser? mint.
16-11-2009, 08:41 AM
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Thats was nice of them, if you rev the car up and hold it a 3k can you feel the car shake quite bad, Ford mechanic showed me this as mine was giving same symptons you are talking about, hold it at 3k and see what happens if it starts shaking badly its what i said above, might not be but am just trying to help.
16-11-2009, 08:49 AM
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I had the EXACT same thing on my Vivaro Van (renault laguna turbo diesel engine) The glow plug light flashes and theres no power in the engine like the turbo wont spin up!
I took it into vauxhall and they wanted to book me in and nick all the money out of my wallet !!!
I changed loadsa stuff, but nothing helped... until i changed the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, then it was fine.
I'd try that first !!!
I took it into vauxhall and they wanted to book me in and nick all the money out of my wallet !!!
I changed loadsa stuff, but nothing helped... until i changed the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, then it was fine.
I'd try that first !!!
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16-11-2009, 09:19 AM
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i had this on the way to devon last year....even posted in here to get any ideas..
i took it to a small ford garage in devon and he said they have loads of these problems...took off the plastic engine cover, noticed that one of the injectors had a tiny leak and just tightened it and i kid you not it fixed it !!!!!!
i would honestly have a look at that, you wont notice a leak dripping from the bottom so you need to take the cover off
i took it to a small ford garage in devon and he said they have loads of these problems...took off the plastic engine cover, noticed that one of the injectors had a tiny leak and just tightened it and i kid you not it fixed it !!!!!!
i would honestly have a look at that, you wont notice a leak dripping from the bottom so you need to take the cover off
16-11-2009, 05:21 PM
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Thanks to everyone for your help 
, I have really been pulling my hair out over this one!
I think I will change the MAF Sensor and MAP Sensor next and see how I go after that.
I have already cleaned the EGR Valve and It doesnt apper to be sticking. I have looked at the injectors and cant see any fuel leaks but will make sure they are tight.
I have also checked all the turbo pipes for splits and leaks so have ruled that out too.
Will post my findings! thanks again.
, I have really been pulling my hair out over this one! I think I will change the MAF Sensor and MAP Sensor next and see how I go after that.
I have already cleaned the EGR Valve and It doesnt apper to be sticking. I have looked at the injectors and cant see any fuel leaks but will make sure they are tight.
I have also checked all the turbo pipes for splits and leaks so have ruled that out too.
Will post my findings! thanks again.
16-11-2009, 08:45 PM
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I would be trying to find a decent garage by you that do diagnostic work, sounds like your friendly ford dealer aint clued up. Couple of suggestions airflow EGR very common had one the other day that wouldnt start because of that was chokeing the engine. Also intresting what ford said turbo fault, im pretty sure you will have a variable vaine turbo on yours, ive none them stick and cause a slight over boost this then knocks the power right back. If i were looking at it would be using fault codes and live data on a road test, shame they didnt give you any fault codes, see if they have got any, if the lights were on it will have stored some
16-11-2009, 10:01 PM
#12
i had glow plug light flashing on a jag x type with fords tdci 130 engine, lack of power also, that had a turbo related fault code, it was the electronic stepper motor that controlles the turbo waste gate, didnt have a faithful actuator this one. turned out i had to change the turbo aswel because you couldnt buy the motor on its own. fitted and all ok
17-11-2009, 07:56 AM
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Took the car down to a local garage of mine and they hooked it up to a diagnostic machine and it gave the fault code p2263 which is apparantly "turbo/supercharger boost system performance"
I think the common things to check for this are mainly what has been said on this thread
EGR Valve broken or clogged with soot
Turbo Pipes split
Actuator or Turbo
MAF Sensor
MAP Sensor
Air filter clogged
Exhaust Catalist blocked or obstructed
If I drive the car and turn the ignition on and off while its in motion, for about 3 secounds before the ecu has time to register the fault again the car jumps back to life and the turbo spins up etc, so im guessing from this its not a mechanicle fault with the actuator or turbo.
Going to clean the MAP and MAF sensors tonight and see how I go from there, will post my results later.
thanks again
I think the common things to check for this are mainly what has been said on this thread
EGR Valve broken or clogged with soot
Turbo Pipes split
Actuator or Turbo
MAF Sensor
MAP Sensor
Air filter clogged
Exhaust Catalist blocked or obstructed
If I drive the car and turn the ignition on and off while its in motion, for about 3 secounds before the ecu has time to register the fault again the car jumps back to life and the turbo spins up etc, so im guessing from this its not a mechanicle fault with the actuator or turbo.
Going to clean the MAP and MAF sensors tonight and see how I go from there, will post my results later.
thanks again
17-11-2009, 06:45 PM
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i had glow plug light flashing on a jag x type with fords tdci 130 engine, lack of power also, that had a turbo related fault code, it was the electronic stepper motor that controlles the turbo waste gate, didnt have a faithful actuator this one. turned out i had to change the turbo aswel because you couldnt buy the motor on its own. fitted and all ok
17-11-2009, 08:16 PM
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If you have no luck with what you are trying would it be possible to post some pics of the turbo? Is there a small grub screw on the turbo that stops maximum travel of the actuator? The last couple ive had ive given this about one turn to reduce the travel on the actuator and this has fixed the problem. But without seeing it im partley guessing hope this helps
29-11-2009, 06:37 PM
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Just thought id post an update incase someone else has this problem.
Turned out the connector that plugs into the turbo electronic actuator needed a clean! like forevaford said the problem mainly lies with a faut on the actuator
luckaly in I didnt have to replace it, cause ford dont sell them separate, you have to buy the turbo as well.
Have to say a big thanks to stoneacre at goole who couldnt diagnose the problem after 2 hours and still taking my 60 quid for the privalage, not even giving me the faut codes either and then left me with a couple of new dents in the rear door. complete fucking useless monkeys
Turned out the connector that plugs into the turbo electronic actuator needed a clean! like forevaford said the problem mainly lies with a faut on the actuator
luckaly in I didnt have to replace it, cause ford dont sell them separate, you have to buy the turbo as well.
Have to say a big thanks to stoneacre at goole who couldnt diagnose the problem after 2 hours and still taking my 60 quid for the privalage, not even giving me the faut codes either and then left me with a couple of new dents in the rear door. complete fucking useless monkeys
30-11-2009, 09:56 AM
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Hi there, had the same problem while driving in ROI. Didn't turn out to be the same thing though. Luckily I was in a town named Portumna on the North Tip/Galway border, the guy from the Ford dealer there had a quick look and then simply drained the fuel filter. The stuff that came out was "sticky", however, it worked and the motor ran fine. He told me to get the filter changed ASAP which I did and have had no further problems
30-11-2009, 10:27 AM
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Yep the fuel filter was the first thing I changed
The other things to check are:
EGR knackered / sticking valve / cleaning it
Map Sensor - faulty / needs a clean - use electrical cleaner and cotton wool, be carefull as to much presure can break it.
Its located on the boost pipe going to the left had side of the intercooler as you look at car from the front
Maf Sesor which is on the air filter box
Cleaning the air filter to make sure its not restricting airflow
Blockage in the Cat converter or exhaust
Split Boost Pipes
Buildup of soot on the varaible vane turbo - detach the arm from the actuator and see if it moves freely
Plug going to electronic actuator needs cleaning ( sorted mine )
Electronic Actuator Broken - you cant get these seperate from ford, you have to buy the full turbo and actuator! I have read that some people just change the actuator if you can get hold of one seperate somehow, and have just swaped it over and had no problems.
Hope this information might help someone with the simular problem
The other things to check are:
EGR knackered / sticking valve / cleaning it
Map Sensor - faulty / needs a clean - use electrical cleaner and cotton wool, be carefull as to much presure can break it.
Its located on the boost pipe going to the left had side of the intercooler as you look at car from the front
Maf Sesor which is on the air filter box
Cleaning the air filter to make sure its not restricting airflow
Blockage in the Cat converter or exhaust
Split Boost Pipes
Buildup of soot on the varaible vane turbo - detach the arm from the actuator and see if it moves freely
Plug going to electronic actuator needs cleaning ( sorted mine
)Electronic Actuator Broken - you cant get these seperate from ford, you have to buy the full turbo and actuator! I have read that some people just change the actuator if you can get hold of one seperate somehow, and have just swaped it over and had no problems.
Hope this information might help someone with the simular problem
10-12-2009, 08:25 PM
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This seems to be a very similar problem to the one I've had these last few weeks on my Mondeo 52 plate TDCi 130 bh (only bought 8 weeks ago.. gutted!!).... it used to cut out every so often but then suddenly lost all power whilst being driven and the glow plug light has been flashing ever since.
The symptoms are complete loss of power, slight smoking from exhaust, sounds and runs rough as hell when just started and cold, no response from the accelerator pedal for the first few seconds, and (possibly coincidence) but the windows and air conditioning buttons have been playing up. Will reach good speeds but will take forever to get there, and I don't even think about overtaking anymore!
It's been to 2 garages so far. First one said it had P code P2336(?) Knock sensor, and also said the fuel injector for cylinder 1 had to be reinputted because it had been lost. The second garage said an earth lead was corroded and replaced and the P codes were this time; P1665 (FIP - fuel injector pump communication with ECM) and P1664 (FIP - fuel injector pump malfunction).
They also said that the glow plug light is seperate from the ECM light (which is not flashing) and therefore it's not likely to be in Limp Home mode, as was suspected, and that it is probably a real loss of power somehow.
Reading these threads there are lots of things that could be causing this fault but all seem to have slightly different symptoms, things to look at:
Turbo actuator plug
Injector codes - do we need to input all 4 instead of just the 1?
MAF sensor
MAP sensor
EGR valve
Injector leak
Turbo pipes split
Actuator
Air filter clogged
Exhaust cat blocked
Accelerator pedal
There seems to be a lot of things to change there without knowing which will make a difference. Can anybody please help me figure out where on earth to start???
The symptoms are complete loss of power, slight smoking from exhaust, sounds and runs rough as hell when just started and cold, no response from the accelerator pedal for the first few seconds, and (possibly coincidence) but the windows and air conditioning buttons have been playing up. Will reach good speeds but will take forever to get there, and I don't even think about overtaking anymore!
It's been to 2 garages so far. First one said it had P code P2336(?) Knock sensor, and also said the fuel injector for cylinder 1 had to be reinputted because it had been lost. The second garage said an earth lead was corroded and replaced and the P codes were this time; P1665 (FIP - fuel injector pump communication with ECM) and P1664 (FIP - fuel injector pump malfunction).
They also said that the glow plug light is seperate from the ECM light (which is not flashing) and therefore it's not likely to be in Limp Home mode, as was suspected, and that it is probably a real loss of power somehow.
Reading these threads there are lots of things that could be causing this fault but all seem to have slightly different symptoms, things to look at:
Turbo actuator plug
Injector codes - do we need to input all 4 instead of just the 1?
MAF sensor
MAP sensor
EGR valve
Injector leak
Turbo pipes split
Actuator
Air filter clogged
Exhaust cat blocked
Accelerator pedal
There seems to be a lot of things to change there without knowing which will make a difference. Can anybody please help me figure out where on earth to start???
24-12-2009, 07:55 AM
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Quick update:
After thinking I had fixed my car by cleaning the connector that goes to the actuator the problem had returned
After having a independent chap have a look at it, it turned out to be the OXYGEN SENSOR in the exhaust!
dont know why evans halshaw at goole didnt find the problem after hooking up their laptop??? and taking my 60 quid and leaving me none the wiser, but telling me they need to rebook the car for further investigation ŁŁŁŁ, and then telling me the flywheel was knackered?? ( clearly just out to make as much money as they can )
After looking at all the different forums to self diagnose the problem myself... this is the one thing that none of the forums have said to check...
SO CHECK THE OXEGEN SENSOR TOO! my problem solved
After thinking I had fixed my car by cleaning the connector that goes to the actuator the problem had returned
After having a independent chap have a look at it, it turned out to be the OXYGEN SENSOR in the exhaust!
dont know why evans halshaw at goole didnt find the problem after hooking up their laptop??? and taking my 60 quid and leaving me none the wiser, but telling me they need to rebook the car for further investigation ŁŁŁŁ, and then telling me the flywheel was knackered?? ( clearly just out to make as much money as they can )
After looking at all the different forums to self diagnose the problem myself... this is the one thing that none of the forums have said to check...
SO CHECK THE OXEGEN SENSOR TOO! my problem solved
22-01-2010, 07:13 PM
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22-01-2010, 11:35 PM
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Had 1 in work the other day.. glow plug light flashing and engine quite "knocky" hooked up IDS, cant remember fault code but basically it told me to re-programme the injectors and check for a PCM update, (which there was an update available) do both of these and if DTC still occurs, replace the required injector! (was cyl 4) carried out the PCM update and reprogrammed injectors, now sweet as a nut!
08-11-2012, 10:40 PM
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glow light flashing
just fixed very same problem in 03 car today the prob is the injectors are faulty they are over supplying fuel need to be changed 2prob becauce the heaters are being flooded they can burn out also needing to be chaned at the same time dont forget injectors need to be recoded new or secondhand hope this is some help
16-12-2012, 11:20 PM
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it used to cut out every so often but then suddenly lost all power whilst being driven and the glow plug light has been flashing ever since.
The symptoms are complete loss of power, slight smoking from exhaust, sounds and runs rough as hell when just started and cold, no response from the accelerator pedal for the first few seconds
The symptoms are complete loss of power, slight smoking from exhaust, sounds and runs rough as hell when just started and cold, no response from the accelerator pedal for the first few seconds
23-04-2013, 04:43 AM
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I have an 06 Mondeo TDCi that I bought about 2 years ago and it was fine up till recently. Then the engine started to run rough at idle with a LOT of vibration/knocking and some black smoke from exhaust when accelerating usually in 1st or 2nd gear. Then the airbag light came on and the glow plug light started flashing (then stopped). Next whilst on the motorway the glow plug light started and engine lost power (into limp mode). SO I took it into the Chichester Ford garage and they put it on diagnostics (Ł96 inc.) and gave me the following advice -
Airbag light would require a replacement sensor assembly for seatbelt - Ł200
Glow plug and power issue, could try a replacement fuel filter - Ł200
May need replacement injectors - Ł1,000
They did update the ecm and reprogramme the injectors - they said.
I wasn't keen. On someone's advice, I had a look at the sensor and fiddled with the wires to it under the passenger side seat. Airbag lamp has gone off.
However was driving down the motorway yesterday in middle lane and glow plug lamp came on and engine went off :-( , had to chuck on hazards and indicator and coast into inside lane (cheers to the artic driver who let me in) and onto hard shoulder. Turned engine off completely and then immediately restarted and it was ok (for the moment). Not keen on losing power/control at 75mph.
Already had it booked for a full service (replacement fuel,oil and air filters) this week Ł130 excl (in your face Chichester Ford) with my local garage and planning on cleaning egr valve on weekend. See how that goes.
Airbag light would require a replacement sensor assembly for seatbelt - Ł200
Glow plug and power issue, could try a replacement fuel filter - Ł200
May need replacement injectors - Ł1,000
They did update the ecm and reprogramme the injectors - they said.
I wasn't keen. On someone's advice, I had a look at the sensor and fiddled with the wires to it under the passenger side seat. Airbag lamp has gone off.
However was driving down the motorway yesterday in middle lane and glow plug lamp came on and engine went off :-( , had to chuck on hazards and indicator and coast into inside lane (cheers to the artic driver who let me in) and onto hard shoulder. Turned engine off completely and then immediately restarted and it was ok (for the moment). Not keen on losing power/control at 75mph.
Already had it booked for a full service (replacement fuel,oil and air filters) this week Ł130 excl (in your face Chichester Ford) with my local garage and planning on cleaning egr valve on weekend. See how that goes.
12-06-2013, 01:39 PM
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Ford Focus Diesel - intermittent fault
I have a similar problem - my Focus diesel runs fine, pulls well then suddenly loses power and engine cuts out. So far all I need to do is restart and it will be okay again for many miles. Had car serviced and diagnostics run and no fault code reported.
22-09-2013, 05:24 PM
#31
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Brother in laws jag has very similar symptoms to this. His turbo is mechanical actuator. Hes changed EGR and no better. Anyone got any fresh ideas to try?
22-09-2013, 07:33 PM
#33
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P0251 is a fuel metering error.
Can be caused by excess leak back on injectors, blocked fuel filter, crimped or blocked fuel lines, faulty inlet metering valve. Or in some cases fuel pump. It needs diagnosing properly with leak off tests on the injectors and fuel pressure tests on live data.
If you search P0251 on here there's loads of threads about it. Some info from TSB 46/2005
Can be caused by excess leak back on injectors, blocked fuel filter, crimped or blocked fuel lines, faulty inlet metering valve. Or in some cases fuel pump. It needs diagnosing properly with leak off tests on the injectors and fuel pressure tests on live data.
If you search P0251 on here there's loads of threads about it. Some info from TSB 46/2005
P0251 (Fuel metering valve (IMV) control error)
Symptoms:
• Extremely poor engine performance - glow plug warning lamp flashes.
• Engine cuts out - glow plug warning lamp flashes.
• Engine will not start.
Cause:
• The fuel rail pressure demanded by the system cannot be achieved without the IMV opening beyond the tolerance specified for that pressure.
• NOTE: The fault descriptions listed below should be worked through in order.
1. Restriction in the low-pressure fuel system, which could be caused by a blockage of a fuel line or the fuel filter, or a damaged fuel line. For additional information, refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-04, Diagnosis and Testing for a blocked filter.
2. Air in the low-pressure system: Check using transparent hoses (see TSB 107/2003) or remote feed the fuel injection pump with a filtered proprietary fuel supply to eliminate the vehicle low-pressure fuel system entirely. Leaking fuel lines or connections can cause air in fuel.
• NOTE: When using transparent hoses a small amount of air in the fuel system is normal due to a permanent bleed hole in the fuel filter. Recirculation of fuel will occur through the fuel filter until the temperature of the return fuel is over 40°C (hence any air in the system will re-circulate until the fuel is above 40°C and is being returned to the fuel tank).
3. Faulty fuel injection pump, transfer pump part, or pressure control valve. Fuel injection pump internal transfer pressure needs to be at least 6 bar to achieve high pressure chamber filling (to generate the required fuel rail pressure). Check the following (if the engine does not start):
Remote feed the fuel injection pump with a filtered, proprietary fuel supply. If the engine will start when the fuel supply is pressurized or held above the fuel injection pump intake (gravity fed), but will not start when the fuel supply is not pressurized or held below the fuel injection pump intake then it is likely that there is a fault with the internal transfer pump (i.e. not able to draw fuel).
4. Faulty fuel injection pump - high-pressure part or inlet metering valve (IMV):
Carry out a guided fuel pressure test diagnosis with the aid of WDS (symptom "No engine start" or "Poor driveability").
cautionCAUTION: Do not crank the engine for more than 5 seconds. The fuel injection pump will be damaged with long or repeated cranking and no transfer pressure.
Check the fuel pressure (with the ignition ON, engine OFF) (it should fluctuate between 4 and 10 bar maximum). If a default fuel pressure of 2000 bar is displayed then there is an electrical fault on the fuel pressure sensor (connector, wiring etc.).
Check the fuel pressure at the moment the engine starts (target value = 300 bar ± 50 bar).
Check the fuel pressure at idling (target value = 250 bar ± 40 bar).
5. Injectors:
Perform a return quantity test using the WDS guided diagnostic. This test uses special tool 310-129 (see TSB 106/2003). If high return quantities are experienced, check a sample of fuel from the FIP return for black metallic swarf . Go to the next step.
6. Swarf in the system:
Despite improved materials it is possible there may be swarf in the system, without the fuel injection pump being defective. A sample of fuel should be collected from the fuel injection pump return line. If this sample contains over 5mm diameter of black metallic swarf please refer to TSB 42/2003 for appropriate action. First run through all of the other system checks (as described above).
Symptoms:
• Extremely poor engine performance - glow plug warning lamp flashes.
• Engine cuts out - glow plug warning lamp flashes.
• Engine will not start.
Cause:
• The fuel rail pressure demanded by the system cannot be achieved without the IMV opening beyond the tolerance specified for that pressure.
• NOTE: The fault descriptions listed below should be worked through in order.
1. Restriction in the low-pressure fuel system, which could be caused by a blockage of a fuel line or the fuel filter, or a damaged fuel line. For additional information, refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-04, Diagnosis and Testing for a blocked filter.
2. Air in the low-pressure system: Check using transparent hoses (see TSB 107/2003) or remote feed the fuel injection pump with a filtered proprietary fuel supply to eliminate the vehicle low-pressure fuel system entirely. Leaking fuel lines or connections can cause air in fuel.
• NOTE: When using transparent hoses a small amount of air in the fuel system is normal due to a permanent bleed hole in the fuel filter. Recirculation of fuel will occur through the fuel filter until the temperature of the return fuel is over 40°C (hence any air in the system will re-circulate until the fuel is above 40°C and is being returned to the fuel tank).
3. Faulty fuel injection pump, transfer pump part, or pressure control valve. Fuel injection pump internal transfer pressure needs to be at least 6 bar to achieve high pressure chamber filling (to generate the required fuel rail pressure). Check the following (if the engine does not start):
Remote feed the fuel injection pump with a filtered, proprietary fuel supply. If the engine will start when the fuel supply is pressurized or held above the fuel injection pump intake (gravity fed), but will not start when the fuel supply is not pressurized or held below the fuel injection pump intake then it is likely that there is a fault with the internal transfer pump (i.e. not able to draw fuel).
4. Faulty fuel injection pump - high-pressure part or inlet metering valve (IMV):
Carry out a guided fuel pressure test diagnosis with the aid of WDS (symptom "No engine start" or "Poor driveability").
cautionCAUTION: Do not crank the engine for more than 5 seconds. The fuel injection pump will be damaged with long or repeated cranking and no transfer pressure.
Check the fuel pressure (with the ignition ON, engine OFF) (it should fluctuate between 4 and 10 bar maximum). If a default fuel pressure of 2000 bar is displayed then there is an electrical fault on the fuel pressure sensor (connector, wiring etc.).
Check the fuel pressure at the moment the engine starts (target value = 300 bar ± 50 bar).
Check the fuel pressure at idling (target value = 250 bar ± 40 bar).
5. Injectors:
Perform a return quantity test using the WDS guided diagnostic. This test uses special tool 310-129 (see TSB 106/2003). If high return quantities are experienced, check a sample of fuel from the FIP return for black metallic swarf . Go to the next step.
6. Swarf in the system:
Despite improved materials it is possible there may be swarf in the system, without the fuel injection pump being defective. A sample of fuel should be collected from the fuel injection pump return line. If this sample contains over 5mm diameter of black metallic swarf please refer to TSB 42/2003 for appropriate action. First run through all of the other system checks (as described above).
Fuel pressure outside the specified range
• The engine management system continually compares the fuel pressure request (calculated by the system) and the actual fuel pressure in the fuel rail (measured by the fuel pressure sensor).
• If the system is working properly, the two parameters will be within ± 50 bar of each other.
• If the difference in pressure exceeds ± 50 bar then the injected fuel quantity is set to 0 and the engine cuts out or can no longer be started. If the requested fuel pressure is for example 350 bar, but the currently measured pressure is only 290 bar, then the engine will cut out after a certain time. This time is reduced at higher engine speeds. If the requested pressure is achieved within this time then the calculations are started again.
• The reason for this is that if the pressure difference is outside the tolerance, it is no longer possible to carry out a controlled injection process.
• The cause may be faulty fuel pressure measurement or faulty fuel metering; however, it is also possible that there could be a leak at the injector solenoid valve.
• If there is a leak at the injector solenoid valve, the fuel that has leaked will be conveyed via the leaking solenoid valve into the leak-off pipe.
• This means that the quantity of leak-off fuel being fed into the fuel return system via the leak-off pipe will increase.
• This increase in leak-off fuel can be measured with the aid of a special tool (one measuring container for each injector) which is connected to the leak-off pipes of each individual injector.
• After carrying out the measurement as specified (see current Workshop Repair Manual), it is possible to tell from the individual quantities of leak-off fuel whether there is a leak at the injector solenoid valve and which injector it belongs to.
• A difference of more than +50 bar might indicate a blocked injector. A blocked injector is not able to open fully as required.
• This means that it is not possible to fully reduce the pressure in the fuel rail as calculated. If the pressure difference is more than +50 bar, the injected fuel quantity is set to 0.
• The engine management system continually compares the fuel pressure request (calculated by the system) and the actual fuel pressure in the fuel rail (measured by the fuel pressure sensor).
• If the system is working properly, the two parameters will be within ± 50 bar of each other.
• If the difference in pressure exceeds ± 50 bar then the injected fuel quantity is set to 0 and the engine cuts out or can no longer be started. If the requested fuel pressure is for example 350 bar, but the currently measured pressure is only 290 bar, then the engine will cut out after a certain time. This time is reduced at higher engine speeds. If the requested pressure is achieved within this time then the calculations are started again.
• The reason for this is that if the pressure difference is outside the tolerance, it is no longer possible to carry out a controlled injection process.
• The cause may be faulty fuel pressure measurement or faulty fuel metering; however, it is also possible that there could be a leak at the injector solenoid valve.
• If there is a leak at the injector solenoid valve, the fuel that has leaked will be conveyed via the leaking solenoid valve into the leak-off pipe.
• This means that the quantity of leak-off fuel being fed into the fuel return system via the leak-off pipe will increase.
• This increase in leak-off fuel can be measured with the aid of a special tool (one measuring container for each injector) which is connected to the leak-off pipes of each individual injector.
• After carrying out the measurement as specified (see current Workshop Repair Manual), it is possible to tell from the individual quantities of leak-off fuel whether there is a leak at the injector solenoid valve and which injector it belongs to.
• A difference of more than +50 bar might indicate a blocked injector. A blocked injector is not able to open fully as required.
• This means that it is not possible to fully reduce the pressure in the fuel rail as calculated. If the pressure difference is more than +50 bar, the injected fuel quantity is set to 0.
Last edited by GVK.; 22-09-2013 at 08:20 PM.
22-09-2013, 08:59 PM
#35
PassionFord Post Whore!!
It's the most common fault code on the TDCI Delphi system.
Cheapest fix is fuel filter if you're lucky.
If you're not it's injectors at Ł300 each if buying from Ford.
Or a fuel pump at Ł400 minimum.
Cheapest fix is fuel filter if you're lucky.
If you're not it's injectors at Ł300 each if buying from Ford.
Or a fuel pump at Ł400 minimum.
27-09-2013, 02:39 PM
#36
Part of the Furniture
Join Date: Jul 2007
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I just replaced my EGR valve with a jaguar one as it only cost Ł150, ford wanted over Ł300!!
On the Euro IV mondeos the EGR causes many running issues which get diagnosed as injectors, the EGR is linked to the turbo actuator and cooling fan so can bring up confusing fault codes.
Mine was bringing up the flashing glow plug light and had no boost whenever I floored it, changing the EGR sorted it, my friendly ford dealer told me it was injectors!!!
On the Euro III engines the EGR and actuator are vacuum controlled. Many of the running issues on these are down to the vacuum pipe chaffing on the engine cover until it has a hole in it, then the turbo wont kick in and excessive smoke etc.
On the Euro IV mondeos the EGR causes many running issues which get diagnosed as injectors, the EGR is linked to the turbo actuator and cooling fan so can bring up confusing fault codes.
Mine was bringing up the flashing glow plug light and had no boost whenever I floored it, changing the EGR sorted it, my friendly ford dealer told me it was injectors!!!
On the Euro III engines the EGR and actuator are vacuum controlled. Many of the running issues on these are down to the vacuum pipe chaffing on the engine cover until it has a hole in it, then the turbo wont kick in and excessive smoke etc.
01-10-2013, 01:46 PM
#37
Virgin
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Carmarthen
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Hi guys can u help me.
I was having a problem with my 04 mondeo due to lack of power. I found out it was because of a big rip in the pipe conected to the EGR VALVE i have since replaced the pipe and cleaned the EGR VALVE also. Every thing was fine untill today when i was going up the motor way and the glow plug warning light started flashing then a complete loss of power. I stopped and re started the car and every thing was fine again till i put my foot down and went over 3 thousand revs and again same prob.
CAN ANY ONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!
I was having a problem with my 04 mondeo due to lack of power. I found out it was because of a big rip in the pipe conected to the EGR VALVE i have since replaced the pipe and cleaned the EGR VALVE also. Every thing was fine untill today when i was going up the motor way and the glow plug warning light started flashing then a complete loss of power. I stopped and re started the car and every thing was fine again till i put my foot down and went over 3 thousand revs and again same prob.
CAN ANY ONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!
17-02-2015, 10:04 AM
#38
Virgin
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Location: Essex
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Another glowplug warning light problem
I have a Mondeo 2002 diesel on which the glowplug warning light started flashing as I was driving home. No other warning light appeared and the car seemed to run normally. I was only on small country roads so I can't say if the performance may have been affected at higher speeds.
This morning I checked the supply to the glow plugs. The 12V appears when switching on the ignition. After the usual amount of time that the glow plug light would go off, it flashes instead and the 12V supply cuts off after a further 10 seconds or so.
I tried starting the car a couple of times and it did fire but wouldn't continue to run. since the car has always started immediately I assumed that the plugs must be working normally, and that if one plug had failed the engine would start without too much difficulty. It seems unlikely to me, given the previous ease of starting, that it's a glow plug problem. If I knew what resistance to expect on each plug I could check that.
I note various possibilities are given above and would appreciate advice on what steps are appropriate in my case.
This morning I checked the supply to the glow plugs. The 12V appears when switching on the ignition. After the usual amount of time that the glow plug light would go off, it flashes instead and the 12V supply cuts off after a further 10 seconds or so.
I tried starting the car a couple of times and it did fire but wouldn't continue to run. since the car has always started immediately I assumed that the plugs must be working normally, and that if one plug had failed the engine would start without too much difficulty. It seems unlikely to me, given the previous ease of starting, that it's a glow plug problem. If I knew what resistance to expect on each plug I could check that.
I note various possibilities are given above and would appreciate advice on what steps are appropriate in my case.
17-02-2015, 11:27 AM
#39
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Hayminster, When the glow plug light starts flashing when you drive your car, it signals a fault anywhere in the injection system, but the glow plugs.
I would get the fault code(s) read with a Ford specific code reader.
I would get the fault code(s) read with a Ford specific code reader.
21-02-2015, 10:51 AM
#40
Virgin
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More info
I checked the glowplugs this morning. I couldn’t believe it , but I got an open circuit reading. Surely they could not all have failed. I put a meter in series and found that, sure enough the current reading was zero - they really had all failed! Why on earth did the car always start so easily??
I found two old working glowplugs left over from changing the set on a Vauxhall Astra I used to own and lashed them to the supply. They got nice and red hot, but the glowplug light still flashes. So much for my theory that if the plugs had all failed the light would flash.
I found two old working glowplugs left over from changing the set on a Vauxhall Astra I used to own and lashed them to the supply. They got nice and red hot, but the glowplug light still flashes. So much for my theory that if the plugs had all failed the light would flash.
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