johnwilks

hi
I have only had my 1989 2wd sapphire cossie a few weeks, my mate has owned it since new and i have worked on it over the years for him,now it is mine it is a brodie brittain racing build, 480 hp full rebuild to suit, t-4 turbo, runs 19psi high 12 psi low, it has done 79k from new, 3 rebuilds in its life and only got used for holidays to germany and the odd day trip,
still trying to work out exactly what mods have been done, I remember in 1990 when he went to buy it, a company director had bought it new from ford, and had it delivered to bbr, and then his company went bust and he couldnt pay the bill, so my mate got a38k car for 20k my mate was listed as the 2nd owner although it was brand new, at that time it was 404hp,
it has laid in a heated garage for 4yrs, only started now and then to circulate oil etc, when i went for it, it started ok but with top end clatter for a good 10 mins on tickover, no oil seemed to be getting to the head, it did calm down so i went the 8 miles home slowly, by then it was as it should be, quiet, but i noticed the temp was above middle, about 'm' on normal, it had full water which circulated well ,I checked this before I set off, my mate has fitted an ally intercooler and radiator with twin fans, but he re-used the old fan switch and stat,
my questions are
what do i need to do to as a must?
i will put Silkolene Pro S 10w 50 oil, filter change, and change the stat to 82 degree one and fan switch to uprated one,
i want to change the cam belt and tensioner but dont know the best to fit, do i need an uprated belt as its 480hp or does the gates group 'A' do ok
it is also using champion c59c plugs which were aways prone to fouling,
are irridium better as ive heard of the electrodes melting and doing in the pistons
i have put it straight into my garage and wont run it again until i do the changes listed and anything else you can tell me about
thanks

Alvyn

iTrader: (1)

m8 I'm NOT trying to piss on your fire etc BUT 480 bhp on a T4 running 19psi ????? the Engine's needed 3 rebuilds and has ONLY been used a fraction of the time???? I'd be asking why has it needed to be rebuilt so often?

regarding the noisey tappets they WILL be like that as they will need to be run for a few miles so they can will fill up!

wouldn't change the state to an 82 either! there is a mod wire loom you can get for twin fans also! have fitted original or after market cam belts with no issues on either tbh!

johnwilks

hi
probably just my wording, whenever he sent it to BBR for a major service or when he got bored basicly he sent the car down to get upgrades, and when i read the reports of work carried out, they almost strip the engine down and inspect it top to bottom and then fit new seals/gaskets etc as they go, it has been 404 hp since it was first done, with the 2 stage switch, in 2005 it got the h/c pistons and 4x4 block, top end is now ok for unleaded, again complete rebuild, not due to any problems, he gave me the car to use for 2-3 years at about 1995 -98 when i gave it back he put it in for a turbo rebuild and strip and inspect engine, so not pissing me off, just the impression i gave,
is there any reason why I wouldnt change the stat, as im concerned that higher temps have only started since he fitted ally radiator and intercooler, he fitted silicone hoses as well, I think I need the fan switch as the fans seem to go on too long, I thought the 82 degree stat would be the logical one to fit? would be interested in the wiring mod, as it is just joined onto the old wiring.
could it have an air lock or something, it is just running a lot hotter than it used to, also it gets there even on tickover really quickly, i have just got insurance so will get it mot'd/tax then i can start looking about it for anything else needing done
will go for gates belt and tensioner,
thanks
john

tabetha

I use a 88C stat, 82C is too cold imo.
Fitment of the better alloy rads won't cause higher running temps, the stat controls this, but due to various reasons, a complete fuck up was made by ford in the choice of the fan switch, the hysterisis of which is massively too vast, ie it covers way too large a range, a span of 3 to 4C is perfectly fine, they span 13C, the "mod" type one stu/msd supplies spans 92C to 88C.
The fans stay on way too long on what was even when new a weak/overloaded wiring system, so they burn out fuses/holders/wires.
The cure is a complete fan loom rewire, ie either diy your own or buy a aftermarket one.
I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge reading they lie nearly as much as gordon brown!!
My gauge can be anywhere from m to n when the fans cut in, but I know 100% that is is at the same temp at those readings as mine is ecu controlled from the(ecu) cts sender not a fan switch.
Having a lower temp stat will not cure any hot running problems caused by engine faults.
Aftermarket belt kit like QH, or Dayco are fine, belts are rebadged gates, made at the old welly factory, as Gates do wellies as well!
tabetha

johnwilks

Thanks for info, so do you reckon i should try just the fan switch first of all, I was amazed at how quickly it got up to temp, im talking minutes 3-4 tops,
will do the wiring mod and fuel pump mod, also fit belt and adjuster pulley so will see how it goes, I would like to fit temp and pressure gauges pillar mount and where the rad/cass amp used to sit, will make up a plate for 3 and the rest on the pillar, that should give 5 or 6 gauges, ive got a turbo one on the dash which i will change and relocate, but will need to find out what adapters i will need for the readings,
I would like to fit
oil press
oil temp
air charge temp
coolant temp
turbo boost
any ideas on where to fit gauges on the system and what adapters i will need? and any other important ones I should fit?
john

tabetha

Different people have different ideas, my idea is as little distraction as possible, so I'm not into gauges, but consider OIL temp and pressure the vital ones to have.
A lot put in place of the centre vents three gauges, personally my vents here are used 100% of the time for fresh air so will keep mine.
I did think that I might make a "box" type thing to sit on top of the dash above heater vents at same angle as dash there so pointing towards driver with gauges in.
I always go for lecky gauges so saves having oil flowing into car to gauge, 1 less potential leak point.
Adaptors etc will vary from gauge to gauge, wouldn't bother with air temp myself, or most of the others, even though I have in the past and still have them.
tabetha