cosimworthit

Help Urgently Required at the end of my tether

I decided after seeing a rebuilt engine for sale to treat my car to a fresh engine so i didnt have to worry about it going bang.

Well heres my story and your help would be much appreciated.

Engine 1 Head rebuilt with new guides valves oils stem seals and a skim block rebored to 0.5 with new mahle pistons all done at a reputable garage with receipt. Fitted small escos head gasket Happy days slipped her in and ran with cheap oil for 150 miles and no antifreeze. Changed oil added antifreeze done another 50 miles. Spotted a bit of smoking from the t34 and took front pipe off to see a smear of oil in the turbo intake. Took it to a tuner who said seal were probably going on it sourced a sencond hand unit with little miles on it. Took it easy for a few miles to check all ok took it out for a session and with in 10 mins of hard driving she spat all her water out and done a head gasket. This overheated as well so got it home stripped it down sent head away and found a crack in exhaust port 3 behind a bottom stud which was removed for the skim.
Welded and pressure tested light skim block inspected all ok fitted back up this time with a group a reinz gasket. Caution taken so new temp sender fitted,new rad fan sensor,new therostat,new water pump and temp guage fitted. Started her up and all crisp again took it down the road did a few miles and gave her some boost within seconds spat the water out and majorly done the head gasket this time blowing every port chamber the lot.
Pulled her back apart and found a crack between three and four in the block thought yippie at least i know the problem now. Found a breaker with a rebuilt short motor again with a receipt 0.5 fresh engine done 5k put my head on from the old engine with a group a reinz started her up and again sweet drove it all the way to ford fair taking it easy and noticed a slight missfire. Got it home cleaned dizzy and plugs found one of the scres ontop of the plugs loose tightened it up and took her out we were at full boost for a few seconds when i heard a loud bang from under the engine it had blown a pipe off the inlet manifold which it has done a few times evey since i have changed the engine. Fitted her back up with a cable tie off we went again within 4 miles of heavy boost max 18psi she spat the water and done another head gasket.


Help help help

To summerize the only thing remains on the car original is alloy pace rad which i had checked for blockages at a rad shop as water was a bit brown from original lump.

Only done a head gasket since this turbo was fitted and this still remains

Still using head form first engine i bought and when pressure tested only done cold not hot.

Run stage 3 currently boost turned down to 18psi ever since first engine fitted untill happy and was going to get it set up.

Keeps blowing off inlet pipes like to the 3 bar map sensor and had to cable tie them all up as i did one another would blow off and so on. When under full boost!!!!

Could the turbo have a crack in exhaust side and be leaking and pressurising water system

Could it be the head when warm a crack opening up and wasnt spotted because pressure tested when cold!!!!

Am i unlucky and got another cracked block!!!!!

Please someone help whats the best way to get closure once and for all as running out of money now and can only afford one more fix then i am going to have to sell up!!!! or break


Cositsnotworthitanymore!!!!!!

Sorry for any spelling or bad grammer as its late and i am falling asleep

jacko

check thermostat and rad and make sure thermo opens ant that the rad is free flowing

DAN400

iTrader: (3)

that would put anyone over the edge,as above check the rad again, whats the temp gauge sayin when this happens ??

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

as said above, there could be cause for damage in the turbo core, but this would generally cause water and oil to mix, not so much air into coolant.
did you have the block skimmed before rebuilding?
these can warp sometimes.
personally i'd be changing head, it seems to be the only thing not changed throughout, the repair might not have gone as well as thought.

silky16v

iTrader: (1)

what u using to bolt the head down with?

standard bolts or Head stud & nuts

does the car overheat when ticking over if left or does it only do it when driving/under boost

if ya boost pipes are blowing off they ain't fitted correctly (using cable ties to secure them ain't gonna work)

if its the small bore pipework for the map sensor and FPR using cable ties is fine

cosimworthit

temp guage is running at 90 degs and goes to 100 when using harder then it just spikes and shoots up to 110 and the water is out.

Was a recent short engine i bought that had had no problems put a straight edge on it looked fine so didnt bother skimming block

Using standard head bolts from matt lewis says there fine for up to 400 bhp

Car fine no overheating on tick over you can drive it reasonable hard its ok its jsut whn you go for 5mins or more hard on the turbo and it does it like on a track day once its spits its water out it has done a head gasket. So fit new gasket drive it hard for about 3 miles and its blown a head gasket and all water is out. I drove it all the way to ford fair no problems over 100 miles didnt want to break it on the way there and miss it.

Its only the small bore pipes blowing off all the silicone boost hoses are jubileed on

Cheers

Ian

dom123

iTrader: (1)

i'm thinking this is nothing to do with the engine, i think it could possibly be a wiring fault if one of the injector wires randomly shorts against a earth the injector will hold open this will fill you bore up in seconds with fuel then as the piston comes up the pressure of the fuel siting on the piston blow the head gasket on the water way or worse breaks the block.

this happened to me!! i had a fucked l8 which was filling pot 3 with fuel the car will still drive at the point it causes a missfire its too late the gaskets gone! i blew a 4layer wrc gasket.