fordjunky

Thanks martysmartie I was afraid of that. Guess I'm stuck with it. fordjunky

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Worst case scenario, just buy another motor?

Martin

Simon Unwin

hi all who reads this as newbie to this site and a new to owning a focus got a 2000 1.8 lx fan only works on four changed switch and resistor and wiring loom to resisistorand checked fuses have i missed any thing out to sort the problem out

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

No, if it works on position 4 and nothing else then the resistor pack is almost certainly the guilty culprit, I would make sure the replacement is not duff also!

Martin

pdfbt40

But........
As explained above, the failure of the resistor pack, or more correctly the thermal fuse in it, is rarely spontaneous. It will fail again quite quickly. Its a result of low airflow.
Thats due to a slow blower because the bearings are stiff. That's due to water coming through a badly sealed scuttle cover. A lasting solution is to fix all that.
Its described above and you've already demonstrated your ability to do the necessary work.

Martin.

Andy Nichols

ive got 03 plate focus and the blowers in the car dont work at all , ive tried changing the relays under the bonnet and the resister benhind the glove box but theres still no power going in to the 2 30A fuses under the bonnet , anybody got any ideas

pdfbt40

Look at the circuit some way above.
There are no relays in the blower circuit.
The only fuse is F64. Is it actually blowing ?
Have you disconnected the plug in the blower motor and checked, with a good F64 that you have 12v.
If it is blowing the fuse, it could be the motor is stuck due to water ingress. Remove the motor/fan and check.
Full details of rectification has been covered a few times above.

Martin

RRJ

I have a 56 plate Focus and my fan works on positions 3 and 4 but does not work in positions 1 or 2. The aircon light comes on in positions 1,2,3 and 4 and goes off in position 0. The fan sounds normal on positions 3 & 4. The aircon works fine. There doesn't appear to be any damp and the pollen filter was changed by my local garage on the last service 8 months ago.

I've read through all this thread and it seems my resistor is OK as it works on position 3. And I would have thought the switch is OK as the aircon light comes on - unless its on a separate pole.

Any advice on what to try first

Thanks
Richard

RRJ

I bought a new resistor pack and went to fit it, but it doesn't seem to be behind the glove box. I realised most of the posts here are about the Mk1 Focus, mine is a 2006 Mk 2. Can anyone tell me where I can find the resistior pack?

Thanks,
Richard

RRJ

It was behind the glovebox, right at the back on right. A liitle different from the photo of the Mk 1 fixing. I had to stick my head in to see it. I could only just reach the bolts at full stretch with my left hand working blind but managed it in the end.
The replacement works fine.

Solarboy

Hello - great thread,

Fans work when A/C on.

When engine idling, A/C off - fan(s) do not turn on. Dashboard temp gauge goes to half ... no more. But it is cool outside now...10 to 15degrees.

I pulled the Fan Control Resistor....could that be the problem? How to test it?

Here is a pic:

pdfbt40

Sorry, are you talking about the heater blower (in the cabin) or the radiator fan(s) in the engine bay.

The resistor in your picture is only relevant to the radiator fans. They are controlled by relays switch by the PCM. The resistor is in the circuit for fans at slow speed. The resistor is very low value, so its best to just do a continuity test to check it.

Martin

Solarboy

Thank you Martin.

Yes, referring to radiator fans .... they do not come on unless A/C is on.

What is the ohms range for testing? What else could be at the source of the problem of why the fans do not come on?

Thx

Eric

Pete Blake

Hi everybody hope you can help.
Focus 2002 1.6 Zetec

Every time I turn on the heater blower, even only on 1, the A/C condenser and both cooling fans kick in.

I haven't put the A/C on and it happens even when the engine's cold.

I've checked the fuses and they seem to be ok.

Its costing me a fortune in fuel when I want to de-mist the windscreen!!

Any ideas to what the problem might be?

Thanks

Pete

iansoutham

As mentioned MANY, MANY, MANY times in this thread, the a/c will come on when the directional control is set to windscreen, regardless of a/c button.

dimension1212

All

I've been reading through most of the replies in this thread regarding the heater fan problem. I have a 2004 Ford focus 2.0 Ghia (1998-2004 version) with the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC). Recently I noticed that the heated air from the vents suddenly turned cold after around 1/2 hour into the journey. To get the heat air back, I need to increase the temperature to the highest (H1). The fan speed is kept low throughout. Does anyone knows what's wrong with my heater/fan?

I would appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction regarding my problem.

ceebot

Hello

Really helpful thread, thanks. I am experiencing this same problem since my last full service. Looks like whomever did the pollen filter didn't put everything back properly and check the seal. Pollen filter is soaked through, air con now stopped working as well as Fans (except 4) and something extra: The Horn!

A bit odd, but does anyone know if the horn connects through any of this wiring that may have been damaged by water. Or is it a totally separate issue?

Service was only 2.5 months ago. But I suppose I can't really prove to the garage they made a mistake. They could just say I've tampered with it since then and it was me that caused the problem...

pdfbt40

Normal operation of EATC (not too subtile) firmware, especially in sunlight. Its compensating for the possible temperature gradient due to measurement point at knee level, and greenhouse effect of windows.

If you don't like it or feel its over compensating, close the vents manually ?

pdfbt40

There isn't anything common after power distribution to fuses between the heater circuits and the horn.

ceebot

Thanks very much for the reply. I'll have to investigate that further.
Edit: Turns out the horn is broken separately! But hey, that resistor worked wonders! Finally got some heat back for when the winter really kicks in Thanks.

tonyth

help, similar problem but my heater works on all four settings then after about a minute it gradually fades to nothing. If i forget to turn the switch back to 0 then i get a strange noise from under the dashboard which goes when i return switch to 0.... I can turn fans on and before it fades turn off for a min or so then back on and works ok but a nightmare to try and warm car...any ideas??

bullfrog

Hi

I was asked to look at my brother in laws ford focus 2001 no blower in any switch position, after following various threads on here, and checking to see if fuse F64 was intact and whether power was getting to the motor.

Thanks to novice-mech's diagram posted on here 7th May 2011, which made things ultimately clearer. I discover I don't even have power getting to fuse position F64 even with the ignition on.
Apparently everything else in the car is functional.
Any idea where Fuse F64 derives it's power?

Thanks

Jeremy (Bullfrog)

TrevorMcAlister

This is a great thread and very informative, helped me fix my problem at £0 cost.
Some months ago I had the issue of only setting 4 worked on the blower, so I replaced the resistor pack (£12 off ebay) and that got it working again on all 4 settings.
Just recently the blower stopped working on all settings, so after taking out the blower motor and confirming it was the cause of the issue by checking it on a battery charger, I was going to replace it with a second hand one off ebay for £30.

I then discovered you can remove the motor from its housing, there are 3 rubber lugs by the screw fixings, then it just pulls out with some wiggling.
It turned out that the only thing wrong with my motor was that one of the springs that holds the brushes against the arbiter had Brocken, I actually found a similar spring in the shed I could use as a replacement, otherwise you could probably buy one for less than a pound.
The motor in now fitted again and running without any problems, so it’s worth checking that the motor is not completely dead. Note: whilst you have got it out best to oil the bearings.

My dad took his ford focus to the garage two months ago to get the same repairer done and it cost him £370 inc VAT, £255 ex VAT for a brand new blower motor.
Sometimes it really does pay to do it yourself, although it did take me most of a day to sort it out.

pdfbt40

F64 is fed via the Ignition (on) Relay K41. The connections in the battery Junction box are usually metal strips, but some are wires. I suggest the first thing is a voltage or continuity check and clean the socket contacts.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

I assume this was tested with the ignition on?

Martin

bullfrog

As they say the clue is in the question - but thanks for the reminder.

Thanks pdfbt40 for the diagram I'll investigate further in the morning what's going on.

Thanks again much appreciated

Jeremy (Bullfrog)

bullfrog

Hi

Ok so connection from contact 5 of K41 (relay1) of the Battary Junction Box (Engine fuse box) to fuse F1 is perfect, but resistance check from contact 5 of K41 to Fuse F64 is measuring 1000ohms, so problem in/under the fuse box.

So any advice on how to dismantle the fuse box safely is welcome, it appears to be just plastic clips all around the outside and a hex head screw holding the upper part to the car, undoubtedly this will turn out more complex than envisaged.

I won't be able to carry out any further work until next weekend. Brother in law is away now to do decorating for his daughter(My niece).

Thanks again for all your help

Jeremy (Bullfrog)

r_holmes22

I've come across this thread today while searching for the cause/solution to my fan problem. Mine's slightly different from other on this thread in that my fan blows on all settings except position 2. Is this also most likely to be caused by a faulty resistor pack?

To confirm, I have a Focus TDCi, MK2 (2006) and the fan blows on all positions except for position 2 [edit], although it's hard to tell whether position 1 is working either; there is air coming out but does not seem any more than when on position 0. The air conditioning appears unaffected; it switches on at all fan speeds (although obviously doesn't blow any cold air out with fan set to position 2).

I'm at work right now so am not in a position to check for dodgy pollen filters, loose scuttle panels etc, but I've never been aware of any dampness in the passenger (or any other) footwell. I'll check the easy-to-access options this evening if I get a chance.

From the discussion above it doesn't sound like a blown fuse or a dodgy switch but I am loathe to fork out £20+ for a replacement resistor pack if it is unlikely to solve the problem.

What do you guys think? I'd be happy to supply more info if required.

katpat

Hi there,

Im new to the forum, but I have a question about my standard sedan ford focus' fan control I was hoping someone could help me out with. So heres the thing, it gets extremely cold here during the winter (talking anywhere from -20 to -40 or sometimes colder) and when it got chilly my heat/fan dial would stick. My husband got frustrated one day and forced it (against my pleas) and there was a snap and although the dial now turns, the heat/fan is stuck on floor. Now I have to figure out if this is something I can attempt myself (if its simple - Im a little mechanically inclined if I have to be) or if this is an expensive and lengthy endeavor for which I will have to take it in and get the whole sha-bang fixed.... if anyone possibly knows [what my poor little car now needs], Id be eternally grateful!!

Ian Scott Heriot

hi i have a problem with my 2002 ford focus my fuses have not blown and im not getting power to my 1234 switch or any of the other dials to do with the cooling/heating system I rang ford and they are not allowed to give advice over the phone help please

R3ACH3R

Hi guys,

I have been reading this thread now for a few weeks and have so far completed the following....

1. Changed the resistor for a New Maplins one.
2. Checked the fan movement, all ok no issues there.

However I now have all four positions were working, I am not getting any heat through the system though.



Can anyone please advise as to where I go next?


I have also recently replaced the timing belt, drive belt and water pump and filled the required amount of coolant back into the car, but still no heat. I am driving a Ford Focus Estate 03 reg 1.8 diesel

Clunky

I just discovered that my aircon seems to be active even though it's switched off. I assume that's not correct behavior - or does it do this when it is hot as it is today? Thanks.

Johnhorsley5

My 2000 Focus has a similar problem. The blower motor doesn't work on setting 1 but does on 2,3 & 4. Also the aircon light only comes on on setting 1. I can't see how this can be the resistor, as the sections of the are in series. Looks as though it may be the heater control unit. You thoughts ? Is it easy to replace?

Johnhorsley5

I had the same problem in that the fan would not work on setting 1. I replaced the blower resistor pack and it fixed it. I can't work out why, but it fixed it. I also found that by dropping one of the pieces of trim I could use a long screwdriver

Rib

I'm having an issue in that my heater blower doesn't wor at all on my 99 Focus.

I replaced the resistor network, I realise now unecessarily.

I have the motor out and while the bearing is not really free it does turn, but I will lube it before reinstalling it. I tried running the motor on a bench PSU but it doesn't turn, maybe because the PSU will only deliver an amp ?? If I connect the motor terminals to an oscilloscope & spin the fan I get a kick on the scop trace indicating that it is generating some power.

I have checked that I have V+ at the motor lead with the ignition on. but oddly I get this on both wires going to the motor, which, to me would seem to be the problem, but I'm not quite sure how this is happening looking at the diagram someone posted earlier on this thread. Can anyone shed light on whether this is normal, or if it's a fault where it would be likely to be happening ?