Jppoy

My problem turned out to be a seized blower motor, I didnt realise the motor has 2 plugs into it, one top right near the resistor and the main power supply at the bottom I took the motor out and manually turned it a few times and a bit of wd40 problem solved. Thanks for the advice anyway.

pdfbt40

Don't forget to 'service' the pollen filter cover or you might be doing it again come Spring.

Martin

H Sz

Hi, could you help me if you can, please?

I have a Focus MK1 and blower fan started to do a weird thing. It starts but after a short time it just start to become slow then stops. We tried to find the root of the problem so we connected the fan to another car's battery (directly, without any switch) and the fan started, slowed down and finally stoped. What could I change? The whole fan part?

Many thanks in advance.

pdfbt40

Was the current rising as the blower fan slowed?

Sounds as if the motor is 'halfway' to being seized. Bearings are already tight and get hotter/tighter as/if its running.

Free off bearings if you can or replace with motor that spins freely.

Martin

H Sz

Honestly I don't know, but if it connected to the power source and you spin it with hand, it is unable to start again. But we found one of the carbon brush (from 2) very dilapilated. The second one is dilapilated, too but a bit less. Is it possible to buy carbon brushes for Focus and if yes, where to find them? We found them for siemens, bosh, valeo motors but we don't know who was the manufacturer of our motor.
Or should we change the whole motor? The problem is that this Focus is a hungarian one and the motors we found on e-bay for Focus MK1 does not look the same type. Mondeo's does or very close. And german web sites have the same type for Focus so I am just not sure that we can buy an appropriate one here. But without blowing car is dangeous, can become very hazy inside... this is why we thought that maybe repair would be better than a full change.
So we are a bit clueless, sorry and many thanks for your help!

Tomas_Fa

It looks my Focus is suffering from the same problem with a blown resistor box due to bad bearings in the blower fan, as it was quite squeaky when the lower speeds still worked.

The question is now if I should try to fix it myself or pay to have it fixed. It should anyhow not be too difficult to find a used fan replacement.

I have seen the nice pictures of where to find the resistor box but now I wonder if there is there someone who can get me a hint how to replace the blower fan. How do I access it?

gray84

hi..

ive got a few questions if you dont mind answering them please?

none of the settings on my fan switch work 123 or 4. but if i turn it from 0 to 1 i can here the AC pump start. so does thi mean my switch is fine?

also ive had a mess with the fan/motor and it turns but has resistance on it. it doesnt spin freely. would this be the reason why my fan doesnt work.

my resistor is fine as ive just got a new one.

thanks

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

It sounds as if you have a power problem, I assume you have you checked the fuse?

As has been said the fan can sieze, especially if it's got wet via the pollen filter etc and so this in turn blows the fuse.

Martin

PaulScorpio

I changed the resistor and still had no joy. I then changed the heater switch and all working now. Thanks to this thread

Venetian Fred

lol you do realise that you can get a screwdriver through the carpet below the glove box dont you??
No need to take the sticky tape to your tools

COOKIELS21

Can anyone help me please. My 2000 focus heater blower packed up the other day. Fault seems different to most others in that it worked fine in 1.2.3 but not on 4. Then it started working on 4 again. Did notice a rise in speed on 4 then stopped working altogether. Have tested resistor pack with a multi-meter. No problems. No apparent problem with wiring and no blown fuses but A/C loght does not come on. No water leaks from pollen filter, so I'm concluding either a siezed motor or faulty switch. Anyone know how to get access to the switch. I assume that the radio needs removing but how? Also, any idea how to remove the fan motor? I've got the glovebox out but can's see how to remove the motor casing. Any help would be gratefully received.

Venetian Fred

Hi mate,Have you checked the big AC fuse thats located in the engine bay?

COOKIELS21

Hi Fred. Thanks for this. Not sure which one you mean. Is it the black relay (R15) in the engine bay or R11? Thanks.

cha1981

hello...i seen what you said about the switch usually being the problem when theres no heating at all in a ford focus....mine just died,no blower at all and no ac,do you think i should focus on replacing the switch first before replacing the resistor pack??
any advice would be great....thank you.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

If you have a no blower situation at all then assuming the obvious fuse has been checked the problem I should think there is a power problem (As you say you have no A/C light either) so the switch as you say is worth checking.

If the resistor pack was faulty you would still have a fan on Pos 4

Martin

COOKIELS21

Hi there. Definitely check the switch. I wasted a whole load of time checking all the wiring, the resistor pack, took the motor out and bench tested it. Nightmare getting the fan out unless you have child's hands! All OK. Took the switch out and tested with multi-meter getting no response at all and noticed a tiny bit of burning on the plastic next to one of the contacts. Went to the Ford dealer. Not one in stock anywhere in Leeds (proving how often they fail) so had to order it. Put it in this evening (15 minute job) and it sparked into life straight away. Cost the best part of £23.00 which is outrageous, but at least the missus is talking to me again now the heater's working (her car). Your symptoms sound exactly like mine so I bet its the switch. If you have a multi-meter, you can also easily take the resistor pack out and test it, but if the resistor had gone, and the switch was OK, it would still run on 4. My money's on that dodgy switch. Hope this helps. Chris.

cha1981

ok,thanks martin and chris for your advice......i ordered a new resistor....ill order a new switch too,send the reistor back!!!....cheers both...
charlie

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

The fan has just started sqeeking on mine, appreciate it if anyone can tell me how to locate the fan, and get it out so that I can grease it up

cheers

PAUL

COOKIELS21

It's not easy unless you're 4'2 with tiny hands!!!

Disconnect the battery. Pull the passenger seat back as far as it will go then take out the glovebox so you can see better (three screws at the bottom). An inspection light is useful. In the passenger footwell, there is a felt cover at the bottom fastened onto the plastic fascia (three more screws). Remove this. Then remove the short plastic ducting that runs from the central block to the footwell. You can pull it out by hand. The fan is fastened into a plastic casing with three more screws at the bottom of this casing and fastened vertically. You'll need to more or less put your head in the footwell to see and remove the screws with a stubby phillips screwdriver. Remove the connection block also located at the bottom of the motor, then the whole motor and fan drops down into the footwell. It all goes back in reverse order. If there's any rusting, its likely that the seal between the windscreen and the pollen filter has gone as well so you may need to replace that. As I say, the difficulty is getting access to the thing. For me, putting it back was much easier than getting it out. If you search the other forums regarding this subject, someone has posted a useful pic. Hope this helps. Good luck! Chris.

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

appreciate you putting all that down for me saves me pulling bits off trying to hunt for it

cheers

PAUL

darju

Great thread, have read all of the advice in it.

Another heater giving off no air flow and am getting no warm air exiting vents at all in a MK1 1999 1.6 ghia , not sure of best next move.

Originaly heater only blew on 3 and 4. Then car was covered in snow several days over Christmas.

When heater failed wasn't sure if it was blower motor, resistor pack , switch or other. Since resistor pack probably wasnt working properly I swapped that out first. btw if you have a screw holding yours in a small ratchet worked well with access from behind the glove compartment rather than from under neath it.

Still no warm air on any setting.

There's no damp in the n/s footwell and pollen filters look ok .Not sure to look at blower motor next or blower heater switch next?

(took stereo out , couldnt see how to get to switch. is it unscrew the 4 screws by stereo housing and pull out the dash panel after removing the 3 dial knobs?)

cheers for any ideas!

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

I presume you now have a working blower on all settings as the resistor pack should have sorted this?

If you have no heat you first need to make sure the car is actually getting up to temp? If so then feel the pipes under bonnet going to and from the matrix with the engine @ running temp, they should both be hot to the touch. If not then look toward the heater valve or a blocked matrix which is uncommon unless the cooling system has been neglected.

Martin

darju

thanks for quick response Martin

Blower is not working on any setting after resistor pack replacement.

I got the car up to temp earlier, still nothing at all from the vents. doesn't even feel warm but with no flow rate.

I will go on your advice and take the car for a good spin to get it up to temp and will check the in/out pipe to the radiator matrix now and go from there..

awwaffic

Hi, been following this thread for a while, great info. My problem was heater fan working on 4 but not 1,2,3 settings. Got a new resistor pack and bingo just as described...worked great. BUT 3 weeks later its stopped working again (still works on 4) . I've read that it could be moisture in the duct (due to the pollen filter not being fitted properly??) or the wiring loom replacement?

Anyone got any suggestions on my next move?

Thanks

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You should still have Pos 4 working so check the relevant fuse first, what can happen as said is if the pollen filter is not sealed correctly water will leak past/through it onto the heater motor itself thus seizing it, this is what causes the fuse to blow, if fuse is good I would be checking the switch next.

Awwaffic, it sounds like you have been unlucky as it sounds like the resistor pack has gone again, I would take it back for a replacement, did you get it new?

Martin

awwaffic

Yeah it was new. I'll take it back.

Position 4 working fine.

Where is the pollen filter as a matter of interest? I will check the seal anyway.

Many thanks

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

The pollen filter is accessed from outside of the car and is accessed by removing the passenger side part of the scuttle panel (You will see where it's joined) there is a cap that has to be removed and a screw is underneath, the panel then unclips (Two clips) and the filter can be seen inside.

Martin

awwaffic

Great thanks for your help.

darju

Got the car up to temperature and both in and out pipe are hot to the touch.

Am thinking back along the lines of either the heater blower motor switch or the motor itself.

Does anyone know how to access the switch?

Am getting as far as taking the stereo out so far. Car is a 1999 1.6 Ghia

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Does the blower actually work?

Martin

darju

The blower doesn't work on 1,2,3 or 4

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I presume you have checked the fuse?

Martin

darju

hi Martin

checked fuse.

replaced heater resistor pack as heater only worked on 3 and 4 before it completly failed

checked in/out pipe to radiator were both hot to touch

not sure what route to go down next

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Yes then your right to suspect the switch, it should still work on Pos 4, I think once you removed the radio, the switch is accessible from there. There are four screws holding the facia in when you remove head unit.

Martin

OscarsFocus

An excellent solution that only cost .92p. Thank you so much for such an easy fix. No special tools needed, just a little dexterity and a dumpy crosshead. Total time 30mins. (You should try removing, fixing and replacing a Capri blower!!!) lol

Rauno

Hallo!
First of all, my apologies for my bad english, its such a rubbish!

My problem started ~week ago when the weather turned very wet +2,
before it was ~-5 to -22. Suddenly after ~20km driving my car on highway the AC/Heater panel went dark and air blowing stopped as well, had to open window. Replaced the fuse, everything worked fine for some time, but it still randomly keeps blowing the fuse.
So, few days ago i took out the heater motor, manually spinned it and it runs almost freely, but it stops littlebit too suddenly. I cleaned it with airflow (lots of black dust came out) put some oil as well as possible to bearings, but the spinning was same. So i installed the motor back and hoped tha maybe now its OK, but nothing... Next morning, after ~30km when i was dropping speed to turn off the road the fuse burned again...
Any ideas!?
Thank you very much!

and the car is 99 Cougar 2.0 Zetec

happyhunter1977

Good Afternoon all

i have just bought a S reg ford focus and there is no internal heating working, i have replaced a 30 amp fuse in the engine bay and nothing.

there is no sound of a fan working internally, i have heard this is a common problem, i am not sure where to start as i do not want to pay the cost of a dealer.

any one had this problem that could provide a step by step guide to resolving the issue would be a new best friend.

diagrams would be fantastic also.

thank you for any help in advance

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

If the blower does not work on any position at all then you have a power problem or worst case scenario the motor has gone, was the previous fuse blown and has the one you replaced it with? I would start by checking the switch itself, these have been known to fail and is where you should start by checking you have power to the switch, I should think you would have and it's the switch that is not transmitting the power to the motor.

Martin

Tomas_Fa

I had to replace the fan with it's motor, as the bearings were worn out. The guy in the garage said it's a common problem. The symptoms I had was that the speed control resistor box was blown (actually a thermo fuse) so the fan only worked at the max speed.
The car is a Focus -99 1.6

pdfbt40

happyhunter1977,

Go to start, do not collect £200 for passing GO...In other words ALL the required information is in this topic if you start from the top of page one.

1) For your problem, no fan at all, the most common fault is the switch itself.

2) Blower motors commonly fail because bearings get stiff because of water runs under an incorrectly fitted seal between scuttle cover and windscreen. That comes through the pollen filter. Motors can often be recovered using WD40 on the bearings after removal from the passenger footwell.

3) When the blower motor gets stiff, not enough air passes over the resistor pack used to slow it down, and a thermal fuse welded in the pack blows (~200 deg). Then the fan only runs on max speed - 4. Replace resistor pack or the thermal fuse with one from Maplin soldered in place.

Martin
E&OE