My fitting new fuel lines became a resto
02-09-2013, 11:26 PM
#1
My fitting new fuel lines became a resto
Fuel p---ing all over the exhaust turned into a major job!
Biggest nightmare was removing the gallons of waxoyl I'd sprayed on 14 years ago. No tnice working under it and not mad enough to have a grinder spinning at 13,000 rpm inches from my face so all done with battery drills.
Coming on a pace and achieved quite a lot in the last month.
Most of the underside has had two coats of rusta bond (3 or 4 on the seams/edges).
Time & effort sanding to bare metal, cost of rust treatment and paint, realised was probably cheaper to buy new bits,... maybe not, track control arms of ebay needed 1.5mm ground off the bush liners to even fit the car
Biggest nightmare was removing the gallons of waxoyl I'd sprayed on 14 years ago. No tnice working under it and not mad enough to have a grinder spinning at 13,000 rpm inches from my face so all done with battery drills.
Coming on a pace and achieved quite a lot in the last month.
Most of the underside has had two coats of rusta bond (3 or 4 on the seams/edges).
Time & effort sanding to bare metal, cost of rust treatment and paint, realised was probably cheaper to buy new bits,... maybe not, track control arms of ebay needed 1.5mm ground off the bush liners to even fit the car
04-09-2013, 09:09 PM
#3
Think the guy thought I meant a petrol tank on a Blade as I finishe up with etching primer, a real nice Honda silver grey and laquer. Two pack with a clothes peg and a tail wind. Looks the dogs but not sure how durable it will be. Boot load to the powder coaters but may get a fright from the price 14 years ago
Anyone know the best grease for the ball end of the gear stick? Ready to rebuild with new stainless hardware
Anyone know the best grease for the ball end of the gear stick? Ready to rebuild with new stainless hardware
14-09-2013, 04:27 PM
#6
Well the paint plans changed when the price of the yacht paint doubled.
Decided to use Rustoleum combi cover. Bad plan, f----n horrible paint to use, like treacle to paint then runs like that Bolt man!
Print of suggested RAL 3020, another bad plan.
Would match Rosso Red nicely but against Radiant Red it looks like bright soddin orange. Sixty quids worth I've been well Tangod
Seems durable though so I'll give it all two coats of this then a coat of Radiant Red before the stonechip - a coat of what though I'm not sure, can't be two pack so maybe brushable synthetic?
Decided to use Rustoleum combi cover. Bad plan, f----n horrible paint to use, like treacle to paint then runs like that Bolt man!
Print of suggested RAL 3020, another bad plan.
Would match Rosso Red nicely but against Radiant Red it looks like bright soddin orange. Sixty quids worth I've been well Tangod
Seems durable though so I'll give it all two coats of this then a coat of Radiant Red before the stonechip - a coat of what though I'm not sure, can't be two pack so maybe brushable synthetic?
Last edited by Si74; 14-09-2013 at 07:55 PM. Reason: wrong RAL code
05-03-2014, 02:55 PM
#7
In a quandry?
Most of the underside has now had two coats of bonda rust followed by two coats of rustoleum combi color and two coats of synthetic radiant red.
A few hard to reach bits had the rusta bond over sprayed with coach enamel which the synthetic red doesn't like.
Since I made an arse of one rear wheel arch and will have to gravitex it, I'm hoping a thinned coat of gravitex over the coach enamelled bits will stop the synthetic reacting with it?
Main question though, is it really worth stonechipping the whole underside when it's already had six coats of paint?
Given it's not going to be used a lot, might it not be better just leave off the stonechip and be able to see any bits that needed touching up or will it be like sitting in drum when stones bounce of it.
Going to be a pita to stone chip it all and the have to give it at least two coats of the synthetic and I'm not even sure the gravitex will take to the paint that's already on.
Nearly all the new brake lines are made so thats one pain of job out of the way.
Need to finish painting the underside, two new front dampers and a pair of adjustable trailing arms and I can start putting it all together. Might get it on the road this summer.
Most of the underside has now had two coats of bonda rust followed by two coats of rustoleum combi color and two coats of synthetic radiant red.
A few hard to reach bits had the rusta bond over sprayed with coach enamel which the synthetic red doesn't like.
Since I made an arse of one rear wheel arch and will have to gravitex it, I'm hoping a thinned coat of gravitex over the coach enamelled bits will stop the synthetic reacting with it?
Main question though, is it really worth stonechipping the whole underside when it's already had six coats of paint?
Given it's not going to be used a lot, might it not be better just leave off the stonechip and be able to see any bits that needed touching up or will it be like sitting in drum when stones bounce of it.
Going to be a pita to stone chip it all and the have to give it at least two coats of the synthetic and I'm not even sure the gravitex will take to the paint that's already on.
Nearly all the new brake lines are made so thats one pain of job out of the way.
Need to finish painting the underside, two new front dampers and a pair of adjustable trailing arms and I can start putting it all together. Might get it on the road this summer.
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22-07-2014, 11:31 PM
#9
Five queries and no replies so just bashing on. New brake pipes a feckin nightmare as the 'garage ' made an erse of the last ones. Searched for hours to try and find a photo of how the brake pipes and fuel lines go as standard, to no avail. No big deal will run to suit.
Going to redo the fuel pump loom and given it's been fourteen years, going to drop the box and change the crankshaft oil seal. Sump gasket looks dodgy so will redo that.
Servo out for painting, new seals for master cylinder, may as well take out the steering rack too.
Job just grows arms and legs. Looks like it will be fifteen years since I've driven it? Going to redo all the wiring over the winter, if I can do a telephone exchange, I can do an escort, he says without much conviction
Can't post photos so take it I need to renew my gold membership, which I thought I'd done
Going to redo the fuel pump loom and given it's been fourteen years, going to drop the box and change the crankshaft oil seal. Sump gasket looks dodgy so will redo that.
Servo out for painting, new seals for master cylinder, may as well take out the steering rack too.
Job just grows arms and legs. Looks like it will be fifteen years since I've driven it? Going to redo all the wiring over the winter, if I can do a telephone exchange, I can do an escort, he says without much conviction
Can't post photos so take it I need to renew my gold membership, which I thought I'd done
23-07-2014, 06:29 AM
#10
[quote=Si74;6501223]Five queries and no replies so just bashing on. New brake pipes a feckin nightmare as the 'garage ' made an erse of the last ones. Searched for hours to try and find a photo of how the brake pipes and fuel lines go as standard, to no avail. No big deal will run to suit.
Going to redo the fuel pump loom and given it's been fourteen years, going to drop the box and change the crankshaft oil seal. Sump gasket looks dodgy so will redo that.
Servo out for painting, new seals for master cylinder, may as well take out the steering rack too.
Job just grows arms and legs. Looks like it will be fifteen years since I've driven it? Going to redo all the wiring over the winter, if I can do a telephone exchange, I can do an escort, he says without much conviction
Can't post photos so take it I need to renew my gold membership, which I thought I'd done[/quote
looks good. Mate they are sent to test us sometimes lol, my advice would be if its getting to much lock it away for a few weeks then go back that's what i do. Did you thin down the rustoleum?
Going to redo the fuel pump loom and given it's been fourteen years, going to drop the box and change the crankshaft oil seal. Sump gasket looks dodgy so will redo that.
Servo out for painting, new seals for master cylinder, may as well take out the steering rack too.
Job just grows arms and legs. Looks like it will be fifteen years since I've driven it? Going to redo all the wiring over the winter, if I can do a telephone exchange, I can do an escort, he says without much conviction
Can't post photos so take it I need to renew my gold membership, which I thought I'd done[/quote
looks good. Mate they are sent to test us sometimes lol, my advice would be if its getting to much lock it away for a few weeks then go back that's what i do. Did you thin down the rustoleum?
23-07-2014, 08:12 AM
#11
Some photos
The rustoleum was a bit thick so probably should have thinned it.
Bigger problem was it looked orange- so it's now had two coats of rustabond, two coats of rustoleum, two coats of synthetic radiant red then I decided best stonechip it, lol.
Then another two coats of radiant red, hopefully it will outlast me.
The rustoleum was a bit thick so probably should have thinned it.
Bigger problem was it looked orange- so it's now had two coats of rustabond, two coats of rustoleum, two coats of synthetic radiant red then I decided best stonechip it, lol.
Then another two coats of radiant red, hopefully it will outlast me.
05-08-2014, 10:20 PM
#13
Finally finished the underside apart from where the axle stands are. Back suspension all on. Brake lines done apart from missing the plates that retain the flexis into the dampers.
Have new stainless braided fuel lines but the wiring to the fuel pump is baffling me as to where it runs, seems to short to clip round either side of the tank? Going to put in a new loom to the pump so time for head scratching yet.
Since it won't be on the road this year, going to drop out the engine and box to tidy things cosmetically and redo all the seals that have sat for 14 years, be a shame to put on the new dampers, drive shafts etc and find the crankcase seal leaking onto the clutch! Trying to stay away from the engine as it's only done 4K miles since I rebuilt it but a burton stage 3 head and lightened flywheel, new clutch are lying in the garage along with all manner of cosworth management stuff, hmm where does want stop, just want to drive the damned thing.
Biggest problem is in picture 5. Same both sides of the lower screen. Anyplace else I would have had a bash at sorting it but this is way beyond my skills. Anyone give me a clue. Thought of buying a pattern panels and cutting the bad bits out but think it goings to have to be the coachbuilders as I don't want a bodge. No idea what's involved but hoping the whole friggin dash doesn't have to come out.
Shame as these are the only bits of rust on the car
p.s. went a bit mental with the stone chip on the arch lips but since it will be hidden by the body kit, reckoned a good thick coat was better than a thin tidy one, lol
Have new stainless braided fuel lines but the wiring to the fuel pump is baffling me as to where it runs, seems to short to clip round either side of the tank? Going to put in a new loom to the pump so time for head scratching yet.
Since it won't be on the road this year, going to drop out the engine and box to tidy things cosmetically and redo all the seals that have sat for 14 years, be a shame to put on the new dampers, drive shafts etc and find the crankcase seal leaking onto the clutch! Trying to stay away from the engine as it's only done 4K miles since I rebuilt it but a burton stage 3 head and lightened flywheel, new clutch are lying in the garage along with all manner of cosworth management stuff, hmm where does want stop, just want to drive the damned thing.
Biggest problem is in picture 5. Same both sides of the lower screen. Anyplace else I would have had a bash at sorting it but this is way beyond my skills. Anyone give me a clue. Thought of buying a pattern panels and cutting the bad bits out but think it goings to have to be the coachbuilders as I don't want a bodge. No idea what's involved but hoping the whole friggin dash doesn't have to come out.
Shame as these are the only bits of rust on the car
p.s. went a bit mental with the stone chip on the arch lips but since it will be hidden by the body kit, reckoned a good thick coat was better than a thin tidy one, lol
Last edited by Si74; 05-08-2014 at 10:22 PM. Reason: added a bit
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