scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

well I picked this up last Sunday and towed it home

with my van and the dolly.

its a 1972 Chrysler ch 360 but with a 318 2bbl carb engine.

Australian import rhd which is the main reason I bought it.






I have been checking through the history and the engine was changed
in 1996 to a 318 5.2 litre v8.

ive sorted the exhaust out il add pics and details of that later.

the transmission wouldn't shift if getting on it hard so I dropped the pan off.




it should have about 9 pints of oil in it, it had 1 pint !

and after reading up about what it was the accumulator adjuster had come loose and the adjuster had backed right of and was bashing its way through the pan !


I then hooked an oil pressure gauge and found 5 psi hot idle, 25 psi max revving !
not good so off came the sump.




oil pickup was badly blocked with sludge and old gasket so I fitted new melling stock pump and pick up but oil pressure remaind the same





so ive pulled the sump off again and the inlet and both heads.





the whole engine is a big sludgy mess far worse than ive ever seen.

12 of the 16 lifters were seized open so I stripped and cleaned and freed them all off.
pulled the big ends and they look good and as far as I can tell standard size.

I pulled the mains and there 10 thou under and they are absolutely shot !

crank is marked everywhere but still round I think, once I dropped the caps the bearings were loose in the caps but havnt spun, upper bearings havnt deformed at all.

the rear most main has a oil groove all the way round so I have an original area of crank to measure from. the crank has worn 4 thou all the way around but the area which has no wear is 2.490" which is the exact size of the main bearings at 0.010" grind !

it appears to me the crank has been ground and not left any clearance or maybe 0.0005" at best !
I don't have time to pull the engine and get the crank ground as harvest is just around the corner so im gonna roll in a set of new mains and a high volume oil pump aswell with 25% more flow and hope for the best.

the engine wasn't knocking just low pressure hot.


that's the story so far im gonna order the parts on Monday and get her back together next week hopefully.


im now looking for another 318 engine so I can build it up with high comp pistons and ported heads with a high rise intake and 4 bbl carb so I can drop it in when it gets painted.

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

Looking forward to this one, maybe a huge charger through the bonnet as well?
Rich

bull-turbo

Looking forward aswel. When my 3dr is finished I want an American pickup old one as my dad has Chevy silverado which has been to a custom shop before import. Pm me if you need to now any shops to get stuff as mite be able to help mate

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I have looked at the superchargers but the kit is about Ł4000 by the time its here !
they are a very low compression engine though around the 8.5-1 cr, so a good healthy stock engine would enjoy some boost and would be good efi.
or i could up the compression with some keith black zero deck pistons to get it in the 10.1 cr area, get a suitable cam kit and a head clean with bigger valves and run na.
the stock 318 on 2 bbl is only about 170 hp 270 lbft so not exactly a power house but then at 8.5-1 cr im not surprised tbh.
theres strokers available or they made a 440 ci mopar aswell im not sure what im gonna do yet i just want to try and get it going and get it moted before harvest at this stage.

cool thanks. reel steel have been helpful and well priced so far, il be on to them tomorrow for gasket set, mains and a hv oil pump.

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

You could get a brand new LS3 for Ł4500 with 440bhp out the box.
Ł4000 for a charger kits seems alot but then i've never really looked into it.
Rich

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

the engine must stay mopar.

they are very expensive for a proper full supercharger kit for a mopar, would be cool though like like the mad max falcon

I have been reading this article

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...t/viewall.html


basically they take an engine identical to mine just with headers instead of manifolds and it makes 187 hp, 305 lbft on an engine dyno.

they then simply add high comp pistons to the stock rotating assembly, a high lift cam with bigger valves and a little head porting with 3 angle valve seats, toped of with a 4bbl intake and 650 cfm carb.
it then runs 324 hp, 365 lbft but most importantly it holds over 300 lbft from 2500 - 6000 rpm !

i don't want silly power but 300hp, 300lbft would be nice and give it the power the muscle cars of the era had.

i want to get it going and do a few miles in it and make sure the driveline is all ok so i know what needs rebuilding when i strip it for paint later this year.

theres always the turbo option aswell but id have to go efi i wouldn't fancy carb blow through, supercharging is what i like but its not in the budget unless i can find a second hand kit maybe, and it would have to be an overhead roots type sticking out of the bonnet

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

the exhausts where quite bad on the car bodged up and rattling.

they started out like this from the rear








so I cut away all the rear pipes as they where rotten and rubbing on the leaf springs.

also silencers where rattling so I removed the inner skin then rewelded them.





I got 2 metres of 2.5" stainless exhaust



rerouted the rear pipes up

and around the leaf springs and left 3" out the back to keep within the bumper line.

there all measured up dead level and square to each other.

also gave the rear panel a quick polish





the mains are bad the crank is well worn and I think probably beyond a grind in one

area and some of the cause has been overheating I think.

the rad fan was to small and approx. 1.5" away from the rad with no shroud !

and the water temp sensor is the wrong one so normal range is actually overheating,

plus the rad cap doesn't seal !

so ive ordered a new rad cap and fitted a 16" fan today tight to the core

the old tiny fan





and the new much bigger fan central to the rad and touching it pulls hard through
the core now





block is all cleaned up and ready to go




complete gasket set, high volume oil pump and new mains will be here tomorrow.

im going to fit the new mains and pump, get the sump on then prime the pump with

my drill. last week we were making 45 psi cold.

as long as we make more than that at the same drill speed I will build the engine

back up and just try it.

but if I don't see more than 45 psi im not gonna bother as its a complete waste of

time. fingers crossed it works and I can get a little use out of it.

ive possibly found a 318 engine for sale, if I can get it for the right money il buy it

and start building the 350/350 motor I want for it.

wish me luck, I think im gonna need it lol

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

long busy day today but made some progress I think.

all my bits arrived by 9 am today real steel are awesome next day am delivery and always have stock.





so we put all the mains in and the 25% higher flow oil pump.





had a bit of a nightmare the oil pump wouldn't prime being run of the drill so had to

pull the sump AGAIN and we primed it, then fitted it and drill primed it again with the

sump off and all was good.

it made 55 psi priming and I think it was just hitting the pressure relief valve then as it made 55 psi by half drill speed roughly.

so we got the heads on





I then cranked it by the starter til we got oil upto the rockers, cranking oil pressure cold is now 40 psi, up from 20 psi.


got the intake on and carb, and I removed the 91c stat and fitted a 71c stat the 20c drop in water temp should help keep the oil temps down.





if I get time I may get it running tomorrow, I definitely have more cold oil pressure

so far but what that will relay to hot we shall have to wait and see .........

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Cool car this. I will keep on looking for your updates.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

thanks, it sounds lovely now aswell exhausts are bang on


shes all up and running, oil pressure 25 psi hot idle, 45 psi on throttle.

its still getting hot though so ive now ordered a 16" pacet pro fan.

the new fan will take me from 90 cbm/h to 3900 cm/h same as chevy has.

it runs much better now aswell now the valves are opening fully.


BUT the is a little knock sometimes if the idle drops to low and the oil

is hot, but there was lots of rattles from the exhausts and flywheel cover before so it may of been knocking I just couldn't hear it.

gearbox is now working perfectly aswell.

ive got a 70c stat in and gonna fit the biggest most powerful rad fan

money can buy to keep the engine as cool as possible.

if the oil stays cool enough the knock isn't audible at all, I also have some

20w 50 oil to put in now that will help also.


got some air con to tackle now aswell next week.

I want to build the car and get it moted and use it and make sure its all

ok, then strip and full paint with new engine im gonna build.


more updates and pics some time next week.

AJC

iTrader: (6)

Good work

botters

iTrader: (2)

nice love a bit of mopar, you still got the datsun?

botters

iTrader: (2)

ignore that just seen its still in your sig

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

well been super busy on the old girl.

first off the heater and air con consisted of everything pretty much knackered and

just blowing levels of hot air and never switching off lol.

it was all cobbled in stuff so we just ripped the lot out.

so we ripped all this out





to replace all of that with this little beauty







once removed we found a big rusty hole that had been filled with mastic where

the cold air feed was.

this will all be metal repaired and seam welded when the shell is striped and painted.

but this is first build up and mocking so we just cut some alloy and riveted into place

for now just to seal it up and make it motable.


big rusty hole could almost get my head in it lol





quick fix for now to seal it up.





I then set about making brackets and mounting the compressor on the engine,

the drier and pressure switch and the new 16" kenlowe fan, ive also got an 8"

fan on order to sit next to it to keep it cool.







removed the rad to get the air con rad in there, just gotta mount it to the engine

rad now and order the hose lengths to make the pipes with.





the wiring diagram I got with it was for a completely different control unit.

but ive figured it out in the end. ive wired it all up the heat side is either on or off but I can regulate that with fan speed, but the air con is thermo control which is good.

I have mounted the control unit in the hole where the original controls where BUT

the unit will only fit upside down ffs ! it just cannot fit right way up as the fuel gauge

is in the way. but its in and works so its a start and it doesn't look to out of place.





also fixed the fuel gauge the gauge was shorting on the body so ive just insulated

it from the inside out and its fine now.

heres a pic of the heater/air con unit mounted under the dash.




that's a view looking through where the glove box would be.

I cant belive how much space is in there now, it was literally full before with all the cobbled in crap.

its very close to being road worthy I think

also stayed up late lastnight to bid on an edelbrock performer intake and edelbrock

4 barrel carb there Ł600 here new I won them both used for Ł70 on ebay America

its the same carb as on my 327 chevy which I can rebuild with my eyes closed and

I have all the parts on the shelf

I have also enquired about shipping on a stroker kit that will take me from my cast piston 5.2 litre 8.5 - 1 cr upto forged pistons 6.5 litre 11 - 1 cr

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

shes had a few pulls now





plenty of bottom end grunt but its all gone by 3000 rpm due to the tiny 2 bbl carb lol
considering how knackered the engine is it pulls quite well tbh

jamie's

the fan belt looks a bit like its turned inside out,
cant beat the sound of a big old carb'd v8

Chaz888

Be nice if you keep it NA I had an sd1 engine taken out to 3.6 with hi comp pistons and a bit more with head skims then done my own porting and fitted a brock 4 barrel and tube manafolds and it made one fekking fast MGB ! ah the joys of an old school V8 .

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

lol its got a funky old notxhed top v belt on it, thatl be going soon for a longer belt to wrap around and spin the air con compressor to.
and the noise is music to my ears

she is staying na ive decided. I have edelbrock performer intake and 4bbl carb on the way.
im picking up another 5.3 motor tomorrow to rebuild, ive just got to decide on the spec, im tempted to just rebuild the bottom end but fit a performer cam and polish heads and my intake/carb and leave it at that.

I must retain the from idle grunt it has

gjh

Cannot fault your taste in cars!! Another really cool project here, will keep an eye on it.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

cheers I like random old stuff

one of my drivers picked this up for me today




I paid Ł155 for the lot ! bargain imo


so we spent 2 hrs this afternoon stripping









there was signs of water in one pot but the engine was sat outside with no intake or carb on it so im not sure how its got there yet.

but anyways after inspection the crank journals are standard, the shells are worn and the crank will want a grind but its looking all useable as are the bores.

my plan now is strip to bare block and send away for crank grind, rebore and full balance with the new pistons im gonna have, I gotta decide on a compression ratio I can run either 9.5 or 11 those are the choices of pistons I have.

my main concern was the crank and block which appears to be ok so im happy at Ł155 for the lot.

I just need to try and discifer why there was slight rust in one pot !

jamie's

if staying n/a i'd say go with the 11-1 comp, give it better responce etc
we've got decent enough fuel here, and our emissions regs are easy enough on something that age
not like the yank v8's, they need to run such low comp ratio's due to their strict emissions laws and crap fuel
high comp, big lumpy cam, nice intake, big carb and stainless exhausts= mega sounding car
old school tuning on old school car

Chaz888

My V8 was running 11:1 and I got a brock carb kit to fine tune it and got in running very nice, think i still got the kit if it any use to you.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I am very tempted by the kb 399 pistons for 11.1 cr but I don't want to end up building a grenade lol im only gonna be running stock crank and rods and crank is gonna be on 30 thou grind, also im running old cast heads aswell.
im undecided yet but those are my options 9.6 or 11 cr.

ive made some more progress with it.

front cover off timing chains a little loose ! lol




crank has some wear and a few grooves I have measured 11 thou under in the worst spot I could find so im just gonna buy 30 thou under bearings and that is that, same with bores 30 thou coming out aswell.




undone the mains cap and number 4 fell in half !
thank god I stripped it and didn't try running it, it wouldn't of been long and it would of eaten itself as bad as the motor in the car now !





crank and cam out on the floor, cam and lifters are all junk im going 268h comp cams kit which is biggest cam recommended for stock conv stall.




piston pins are press fit so I got the all off in my press.





cylinder heads all stripped now soaking in my cleaning bath.
I will clean the heads and block tomorrow with my pressure washer.





I bought some good used mains caps from the states there on there way.
ive contacted ivor Searle who are happy to do all the machineing I want doing.

so im gonna take them my rods, arp rod bolts, 30 over pistons once I decide what I want, 2 heads, a set of valves and the block.
il also take big ends, mains and cam bearings.
im gonna get everything tested for cracks if where all good they can fit the pistons and rod bolts then resize the rods, grind crank, resize all the mains aswell and bore block 30 over and lastly remove and fit the cam bearings as I cant be arsed to make something to do them with lol.
il get a valve job done and block and head faces checked for perfect square and that's it.
I havnt had a quote yet but I hope it should be within Ł1000 ish.

ive never really have to do a lot of this as the old cats very rarely fail its usually piston failure and there wet liners so its just fitting new pots and plugs. question is how close is my Ł1000 guess ?

Chaz888

Think your 1000 is about right I got the sd block sorted for about Ł800 that was pistons ,mains ,cam chain an followers gaskets and machine work

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I should be well happy then im planning on Ł1000 just for machine work and balanceing, all parts are extra.

jamie's

shouldn't be as much as a grand just for the machining

Mark V8

iTrader: (2)

My mate had one of these Australian chargers and pinched the 360 engine for his MK3 Zodiac

I machined and fitted the bottom half of a Weiand tunnel ram intake to take a 3/4" ali plate and stuck a GMC V6-71 blower on top with two double pumper Holly carbs and a big scoop!

It looked crazy being so tall but unfortunately never ran as he sold the car before it was finished

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

You were lucky you found that bearing cap.Keep the updates coming.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

sweet the cheaper the better leaves me more for other parts

I quite like the Chrysler chargers except the front end, theres one on ebay now tidy but not mint and not finished and its Ł12500 !
bit rich for me and could easily be in the same boat as I am now if the engines done a million miles like most of them have

mmmm id love a blower for the mad max look but the budget isn't gonna stretch there.


it was mate I did consider just slapping it in aswell, if I had of done id of been in exactly the same boat again with an unusable crank, I gotta get this one checked but I think its ok.

ive been hard at it all morning.

ive had 4 broken bolts to remove, 2 welded out 2 had to be drilled.






so I cleaned the block up






and the heads I cant see any cracks anywhere but I will get it all tested.





fuel gauge doesn't work so ive pulled the sendor from the tank and I think the resistor is knackered, ive now gotta try and source one which is proving difficult so far

the joys of messing with rare cars I guess

my compression is going from 8-1 upto 9.6-1 or 11-1, cam profile going from 0.39 lift, 240 duration to 0.45 lift, 268 duration and from a 350 cfm 2 barrel carb and intake to a 600cfm 4 barrel carb and intake.
I should go from 280 lbft, 180 hp upto 350 lbft 290 hp which I will be more than happy with and have a rev range of 1500 - 5500 rpm.
I don't want a screamer I just want a nice broad power band torque lump.
that's the wildest cam I can run to retain bottom end and not need adjustable rockers.

I can get all the clevite bearings next day big ends, mains and cam bearings Ł100 the lot, arp bolts Ł60 again next day, main caps are on the way I just need to decide on these pistons and get them ordered from the states I just cant decide I want 11-1 but I want it to be reliable which makes me sway towards the 9.6-1 pistons ?

Chaz888

11 -1 should be fine if that seem's to much you can clean up the chambers and drop the comp a bit, also level the valve seats is a good move yet again droping the comp a bit as Im sure you know you have to cut to the lowest seat then cut back angles on seats and valves this was done on mine an she ran as a daily for six years at 10 thou per year.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

well I made a small mistake on the heads cc.
I thought they were 64cc but there actually 62cc.
according to keith black my options are now 9.8cr or 11.3 cr, plus I am going to have the block and head faces machined flat so a couple of thou of each I guess. im gonna have to go with the kb167s as I could be getting near 10.1 cr anyways.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Cool progress matey.Do you never have any chill out time lol.

Fingers crossed for getting your fuel gauge to work.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I did today mate went out for Chinese buffet lunch with friends/kids.
took the skyline out made a 10 year olds day today aswell he was going crazy bless him. didn't launch it though not today temp got higher than ive ever seen 90d at speed water temp at wot.

im waiting to hear back from an Australian supplier if they can supply me with a new resistor for the sender.

Chaz888

Ha ok dude well maybe best to go with the 9.8 's then and up the comp by face an deck skims Id still go for the three angled seats an valves as your gain good flow and port work will be a worth wile effort ,there big pot's an you only got a single valve to fill em with !

DaxRiders

RHD ? it's strange for a american car.

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

That's because it's an Australian import

Rich

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

well this little beauty turned up the other day




so I cleaned t all up, stripped the carb and cleaned it all out, it had some moisture in there took a couple of hours but its all good as new now.







new resistor is now on route from Australia for fuel tank sender.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

well ive had a bit of step backwards now ffs !

I noticed a bit of welding under the inelt in the water area under the thermostat, its been damaged at some point and welded up.
so I thought I better pressure test it and its pissing water out in 2 places !
gotta get onto my welder now who done manifold and ask him to weld it as I have no alloy welding equipment.

pistons are now ordered and on there way hyperuetic keith blacks kb167s 0.030 over and should give a cr of around 9.7

mark

Any updates did see you post this on fascebook dident know it was a 4 door

Red16

You always seem to pick interesting project vehicles, that bearing cap is shocking! Really lucky you didn't run it!