330ci Sport - repainted
01-05-2013, 08:41 PM
#1
330ci Sport - repainted
As theirs as many BMW owners as Ford on here i'm going to view a facelift E46 M sport over the weekend can anyone give info on any problem area's prone to failing or wearing fast etc
Mucho appreciated
Mucho appreciated
Last edited by BRAMMER; 22-09-2013 at 07:32 PM.
02-05-2013, 01:03 PM
#2
I have one, where to start.
Make sure it gets up to temp quickly, as in half way within a couple of minutes.
Otherwise it needs a thermostat, 50quid and half an hour to change.
Crap handbrakes, will need shoes and discs on rear to sort that, takes about two hours at a cost of around 100quid in parts.
Front brakes are known for warping, again not a big job, but 100quid minimum on parts.
Vague steering, this is a rubber coupling that goes soft, no idea on cost, dealer part only but would take about half an hour to change.
Rust on all arches, the lips hold dirt in badly.
Vanos rattle, pain in the arse I'm afraid, but diy isn't costly.
Exhaust should be quiet unless you give it some beans, if it stays quiet, then the exhaust valve has failed. Easy fix, hit valve with screwdriver through tailpipe and force to stay open. Better performance and sounds better anyhow.
Remotes can fail, batteries charge of an induction whilst in barrel, see someone to get battery replaced, about 20 quid a pop, that's if the controller under the dash hadn't failed.
Heaters can stop working, this is the resistor in the air stream, pain of a job, but costs about 50 at most for the part.
That sounds bad, not even covered cracked rear subframes yet.
However these are all wear and tear jobs really, cracking motor none the less. Mines great and such a dream to drive, I recommend remapping though, not much more power, but response is far superior.
Make sure it gets up to temp quickly, as in half way within a couple of minutes.
Otherwise it needs a thermostat, 50quid and half an hour to change.
Crap handbrakes, will need shoes and discs on rear to sort that, takes about two hours at a cost of around 100quid in parts.
Front brakes are known for warping, again not a big job, but 100quid minimum on parts.
Vague steering, this is a rubber coupling that goes soft, no idea on cost, dealer part only but would take about half an hour to change.
Rust on all arches, the lips hold dirt in badly.
Vanos rattle, pain in the arse I'm afraid, but diy isn't costly.
Exhaust should be quiet unless you give it some beans, if it stays quiet, then the exhaust valve has failed. Easy fix, hit valve with screwdriver through tailpipe and force to stay open. Better performance and sounds better anyhow.
Remotes can fail, batteries charge of an induction whilst in barrel, see someone to get battery replaced, about 20 quid a pop, that's if the controller under the dash hadn't failed.
Heaters can stop working, this is the resistor in the air stream, pain of a job, but costs about 50 at most for the part.
That sounds bad, not even covered cracked rear subframes yet.
However these are all wear and tear jobs really, cracking motor none the less. Mines great and such a dream to drive, I recommend remapping though, not much more power, but response is far superior.
02-05-2013, 01:44 PM
#3
Advanced PassionFord User
I've got the 330ci Convertible and so far its been great (touch wood)
Few things I've had to do are..
- Front brakes as they were warped
- Rear brakes need doing plus handbrake isn't great.
- Front wishbone rear bushes I think? They were perished.
One thing I really need to do is get the car tracking and wheel allignment sorted and see if that sorts the 'wandering issue' that these cars are prone to.
On the convertible if it rains heavy I get a build up of water in the gully where the roof meets the windscreen on the drivers side, this causes water to drip onto the seat occasionally but can be cured with putting a bit of vaseline or similar up where it collects.
Cracking cars though, sound great when you open them up around 3000rpm get a nice deep roar.
Few things I've had to do are..
- Front brakes as they were warped
- Rear brakes need doing plus handbrake isn't great.
- Front wishbone rear bushes I think? They were perished.
One thing I really need to do is get the car tracking and wheel allignment sorted and see if that sorts the 'wandering issue' that these cars are prone to.
On the convertible if it rains heavy I get a build up of water in the gully where the roof meets the windscreen on the drivers side, this causes water to drip onto the seat occasionally but can be cured with putting a bit of vaseline or similar up where it collects.
Cracking cars though, sound great when you open them up around 3000rpm get a nice deep roar.
02-05-2013, 02:02 PM
#5
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Try to get one with a manual gearbox if you can as the auto boxes are known for failing and can be costly to fix. As mentioned above, these can rust a fair bit. Main places to look are all 4 arches, front of bonnet around grills, and above the rear number plate on the boot. Also get a mileage check done (VOSA, etc) as there are a few clocked E46's out there. Apart from the above they are brilliant cars.
02-05-2013, 02:24 PM
#6
Advanced PassionFord User
We got a M Sport SALOON on a 02 plate. 330i.
They drink oil. BMW say anything over 1000 miles to a litre is fine. You will struggle to tell this but check for signs of smoke if it is burning alot!
Rust on the arches
Front light washer jets fail, most disconnected now I expect
Sign of the heater fan problem... The fan will pulse until you turn it right up to full power then it will work fine
If you corner in the car and it feels like the traction control is coming on, this will be a speed sensor on one of the wheels. Turning the traction control off will stop this.
Thermostat as above, ours is new and still takes around ten minutes to heat up
If you find it is wondering with the road like ours is, apparently changing the front rear trailing arms helps... but not had it done. It has passed two mots like this. Its a very common problem with the E46 as it is heavy.
Do not be afraid of the miles on the engine. Ours has 170,000 on the clock and ticks like a watch. Make sure everything around it has been changed, brakes, suspension etc.
I took ours out at the weekend and was seeing 46 MPG at 60mph and achieved 40MPG over a 400 mile trip. I got nearly 500 miles to a tank in a 330i.
You will no doubt feel the gearbox is odd when trying to select gears from cold. This is a couple pound grommit but it is a box out job. It feels like the car cannot make its mind up to select a gear. So you will go for third and accidently get 5th. Sounds worse than it is,within ten minutes of driving it you will automaticly comensate for it
They drink oil. BMW say anything over 1000 miles to a litre is fine. You will struggle to tell this but check for signs of smoke if it is burning alot!
Rust on the arches
Front light washer jets fail, most disconnected now I expect
Sign of the heater fan problem... The fan will pulse until you turn it right up to full power then it will work fine
If you corner in the car and it feels like the traction control is coming on, this will be a speed sensor on one of the wheels. Turning the traction control off will stop this.
Thermostat as above, ours is new and still takes around ten minutes to heat up
If you find it is wondering with the road like ours is, apparently changing the front rear trailing arms helps... but not had it done. It has passed two mots like this. Its a very common problem with the E46 as it is heavy.
Do not be afraid of the miles on the engine. Ours has 170,000 on the clock and ticks like a watch. Make sure everything around it has been changed, brakes, suspension etc.
I took ours out at the weekend and was seeing 46 MPG at 60mph and achieved 40MPG over a 400 mile trip. I got nearly 500 miles to a tank in a 330i.
You will no doubt feel the gearbox is odd when trying to select gears from cold. This is a couple pound grommit but it is a box out job. It feels like the car cannot make its mind up to select a gear. So you will go for third and accidently get 5th. Sounds worse than it is,within ten minutes of driving it you will automaticly comensate for it
02-05-2013, 02:29 PM
#7
Advanced PassionFord User
Also when you put the drives windows down, listen for a knocking or a ticking noise. Hard to explain but you will hear it. This is a sign the window mech is going. The motor will be OK just the mech, we bought a new one for around Ł100 from BMW and I fitted, pretty easy to do, getting the door card of is the hardest part as they are really well built. Get one with as much spec as you can, HK is really good in ours (Harmon Kardon) and the bi xenon lights are really good too. Auto lights, auto wipers, climate control, air con, steering wheel control, cruise control, split folding rear seats, parking sensors, bluetooth phone and no doubt still more. Really nice car, best I have bought. Also check the rear number plate lights work and the boot release. These are known to fail, had to replace ours as one of the bulbs would not work. Found the part cheap but if you was buying new from BMW your looking at a couple hundred including paint.
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03-05-2013, 03:51 PM
#8
Again cheers - i've my eye on two car's but completely different.
First is a silver 52 reg 330 ci, 150k on the clock but very very tidy and full service and is described very well for Ł3000 and has every extra you can get for one it's got a complete pack, completely mint exterior inc wheels in shadow chrome and like new interior just high miles but been an enthusiasts car for the past 6 years
The second is a Black 53 plate 330 ci facelift with 105k for Ł4k
The second appeals due to facelift and 6 speed but the first is easier on the pocket and is matched in condition
First is a silver 52 reg 330 ci, 150k on the clock but very very tidy and full service and is described very well for Ł3000 and has every extra you can get for one it's got a complete pack, completely mint exterior inc wheels in shadow chrome and like new interior just high miles but been an enthusiasts car for the past 6 years
The second is a Black 53 plate 330 ci facelift with 105k for Ł4k
The second appeals due to facelift and 6 speed but the first is easier on the pocket and is matched in condition
03-05-2013, 05:01 PM
#9
i have no idea how you could get 40mpg, best i've had was 28mpg average over a week of being aware of mpg.
window mech is another mentioned item i've had and the rebuild kits do work to save more money, but they really aren't ready to fit.
really are cracking cars, my misses is driving mine today, dead keen to get her hands on it again. it's only a 51 plate, so re facelift, but not much in them. i'm on 94k now and does feel tight.
i'd go for lower miles, i know it doesn't mean it's in better nick, but easier to sell on so could be worth spending a little more.
window mech is another mentioned item i've had and the rebuild kits do work to save more money, but they really aren't ready to fit.
really are cracking cars, my misses is driving mine today, dead keen to get her hands on it again. it's only a 51 plate, so re facelift, but not much in them. i'm on 94k now and does feel tight.
i'd go for lower miles, i know it doesn't mean it's in better nick, but easier to sell on so could be worth spending a little more.
04-05-2013, 06:38 AM
#10
Advanced PassionFord User
I looked at three. Two with under 100k and ours on 150. The others were fucked. Miles means nothing on these.
Check for uneven tyre wear. Inside walls will show problems.
Check for uneven tyre wear. Inside walls will show problems.
04-05-2013, 11:33 PM
#11
Got the car today - bought the older car with 155k on the clock, has a few marks here and there mainly age related but other than that it's unreal condition - drives well but odd, need to get used to it.
Got pulled on the way home with no tax but was let on my way by an understanding traffic officer as i have no way of taxing as if ordered online it would go to registered keeper not me so i'll sort it Monday.
Got pulled on the way home with no tax but was let on my way by an understanding traffic officer as i have no way of taxing as if ordered online it would go to registered keeper not me so i'll sort it Monday.
13-05-2013, 07:31 PM
#14
1. Gearbox oil? BMW oil castrol synthetic long life 75 w 90,
oilman says Fuchs TITAN SINTOFLUID SAE 75W-80 or many on bmw forums say Redline D4 atf
2. programming an additional second key (one keeps cancelling the other when i turn key once, hold top button and press middle 3 times) so only have one key and the missus needs the other one doing
Heres the car
13-05-2013, 08:42 PM
#17
Advanced PassionFord User
Very nice mate.
From my experience with BMW. It is best to stick with what BMW say. I went for aftermarket diff oil in a M3 and it made the diff judder. I put the proper BMW oil in and within ten miles it was silent and working fine.
From that day I stuck in what they said. Cost a little bit more but it is the right stuff for the car.
As for the key, sadly with this kind of thing, you need a computer to do the work. My local specialist had to borrow the machine used for keys etc from our local BMW dealer to resolve some issues. Its bloody expensive kit so might be a dealer only unless it is something silly.
I am sure the keys auto charge when in the ignition, maybe the battery is on its last legs or something? hard to explain.
We have never had any problems with our keys. I know you can get some software to run on a laptop that allows you to turn stuff on and off, things like folding mirrors to fold etc when locking, lights flash when alarming the car, windows up and down on the press of a button etc etc loads of stuff. I use E46Zone. Good website, lots of very helpful people and most know how to resolve the bulk of issues.
From my experience with BMW. It is best to stick with what BMW say. I went for aftermarket diff oil in a M3 and it made the diff judder. I put the proper BMW oil in and within ten miles it was silent and working fine.
From that day I stuck in what they said. Cost a little bit more but it is the right stuff for the car.
As for the key, sadly with this kind of thing, you need a computer to do the work. My local specialist had to borrow the machine used for keys etc from our local BMW dealer to resolve some issues. Its bloody expensive kit so might be a dealer only unless it is something silly.
I am sure the keys auto charge when in the ignition, maybe the battery is on its last legs or something? hard to explain.
We have never had any problems with our keys. I know you can get some software to run on a laptop that allows you to turn stuff on and off, things like folding mirrors to fold etc when locking, lights flash when alarming the car, windows up and down on the press of a button etc etc loads of stuff. I use E46Zone. Good website, lots of very helpful people and most know how to resolve the bulk of issues.
13-05-2013, 09:09 PM
#19
As for the key, sadly with this kind of thing, you need a computer to do the work. My local specialist had to borrow the machine used for keys etc from our local BMW dealer to resolve some issues. Its bloody expensive kit so might be a dealer only unless it is something silly.
I am sure the keys auto charge when in the ignition, maybe the battery is on its last legs or something? hard to explain.
We have never had any problems with our keys. I know you can get some software to run on a laptop that allows you to turn stuff on and off, things like folding mirrors to fold etc when locking, lights flash when alarming the car, windows up and down on the press of a button etc etc loads of stuff. I use E46Zone. Good website, lots of very helpful people and most know how to resolve the bulk of issues.
I am sure the keys auto charge when in the ignition, maybe the battery is on its last legs or something? hard to explain.
We have never had any problems with our keys. I know you can get some software to run on a laptop that allows you to turn stuff on and off, things like folding mirrors to fold etc when locking, lights flash when alarming the car, windows up and down on the press of a button etc etc loads of stuff. I use E46Zone. Good website, lots of very helpful people and most know how to resolve the bulk of issues.
When i got home i tried the other key and nothing so checked online and did the coding and the other key worked but the original had stopped - so every time i code one it cancels the other
both keys are charged just won't code both.The upgrade pack sheet has:
0534: CLIMATE CONTROL
0338: SPORTS PACK 2
0302: UPGRADE ALARM SYSTEM
0459: ELECTRIC MEMORY SEATS
0502: HEADLIGHT WASHERS
0651: MD DRIVE
0672: 6 DISC CD MULTI CHANGER
0210: DYNAMIC STABILITY CONTROL
0226: SPORTS CHASSIS TUNING
0249: MULTI FUNCTIONAL STEERING WHEEL
0354: GREEN TINT WINDSCREEN
0403: ELECTRIC SUNROOF
0431: AUTO DIMMING REAR VIEW MIRROR
0481: FULL M SPORT BLACK LEATHER SEATS
0508: REAR PARKING SENSORS
0521: RAIN SENSORS
0522: XENON HEADLIGHTS
0661: BMW BUSINESS RADIO
0674: HARMAN/ KARDON SOUND
0710: M SPORT STEERING WHEEL
0716: M SPORT EXTERIOR PACK 2
0789: UNMARKED 18 INCH MV ALLOY WHEELS INCLUDING STAGGERED FACTORY TYRES
0441: SMOKING PACKAGE
0785: INDIVIDUAL CLEAR FLASHING LIGHTS
13-05-2013, 09:27 PM
#20
you need to change the indicators to clear ones, will look much nicer, i'll get a pic of mine and you'll see what i mean.
as for keys, they have rechargeable batteries inside, when they die, they die and need replacing.
you can do it yourself, but i tried and damaged the circuit in one so just got a local place to do the other and fix the one i damaged whilst opening.
costs about Ł20-30, but you will have to code it to the car.
if you search key coding for e46, you'll find instructions to do it.
you do need to code all keys at the same time otherwise you'll lose the non reprogrammed keys which is what has happened
as for keys, they have rechargeable batteries inside, when they die, they die and need replacing.
you can do it yourself, but i tried and damaged the circuit in one so just got a local place to do the other and fix the one i damaged whilst opening.
costs about Ł20-30, but you will have to code it to the car.
if you search key coding for e46, you'll find instructions to do it.
you do need to code all keys at the same time otherwise you'll lose the non reprogrammed keys which is what has happened
13-05-2013, 09:35 PM
#22
you need to change the indicators to clear ones, will look much nicer, i'll get a pic of mine and you'll see what i mean.
as for keys, they have rechargeable batteries inside, when they die, they die and need replacing.
you can do it yourself, but i tried and damaged the circuit in one so just got a local place to do the other and fix the one i damaged whilst opening.
costs about Ł20-30, but you will have to code it to the car.
if you search key coding for e46, you'll find instructions to do it.
you do need to code all keys at the same time otherwise you'll lose the non reprogrammed keys which is what has happened
as for keys, they have rechargeable batteries inside, when they die, they die and need replacing.
you can do it yourself, but i tried and damaged the circuit in one so just got a local place to do the other and fix the one i damaged whilst opening.
costs about Ł20-30, but you will have to code it to the car.
if you search key coding for e46, you'll find instructions to do it.
you do need to code all keys at the same time otherwise you'll lose the non reprogrammed keys which is what has happened
Also i know it's going to sound odd but how do you program the keys at the same time - do you have to turn each key one click remove then programme them together like that as i've tried to do them one after another really quickly
Last edited by BRAMMER; 13-05-2013 at 09:36 PM.
13-05-2013, 10:02 PM
#23
smoked ones for the win like this:
and black kidney grilles, mine were painted and i've done them again due to stone chips, just waiting for some properly done black ones to arrive, cheap mod.
programming more than one key is described in the manual i think, follow info on this link:
http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/1...s-to-your-car/
and black kidney grilles, mine were painted and i've done them again due to stone chips, just waiting for some properly done black ones to arrive, cheap mod.
programming more than one key is described in the manual i think, follow info on this link:
http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/1...s-to-your-car/
13-05-2013, 10:25 PM
#25
smoked ones for the win like this:
and black kidney grilles, mine were painted and i've done them again due to stone chips, just waiting for some properly done black ones to arrive, cheap mod.
programming more than one key is described in the manual i think, follow info on this link:
http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/1...s-to-your-car/
and black kidney grilles, mine were painted and i've done them again due to stone chips, just waiting for some properly done black ones to arrive, cheap mod.
programming more than one key is described in the manual i think, follow info on this link:
http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/1...s-to-your-car/
I tried that guide and it's useless for me as it just cancels the previous key
13-05-2013, 11:09 PM
#28
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its normally the key that fails if it locks off the key after a drive and doesnt work when you go back to it
always thaught it was BMW only at Ł200 a pop too
E46`s suffer with ABS modules failing giving random fault codes, multiple sensor failure, or brake pressure sensor faults as this is all internal, but remove, send off and refit repaired (dry joints normally)
worn bushes all over suspension
worn rear diffs if driven hard, clonking on drive takeup
clocks fail, loosing half of the facia, BMW only and 600+ (may be cheaper now, jump starting also spikes them!)
rear light clusters, take the plugs off the cluster, they currode like old sierras, BMW sells a repair kit, its a load of wires and terminals and chop out/repair and rebuild plugs
timing chains/tensioners fail over time
air leaks arround manifold area, need a good smoke tester to locate, regular emissions fail with high lambda circa 1.500+
harmonic dampers fail too, DO NOT unbolt the single bolt crank pulleys, this drops tension off the chain and cams jump!
wiring to outside temp sensor fails (located in either bumper brake duct)
heater resistor (hedgehog) fails causing flat battery
VERY VERY VERY hot, do not touch, leave battery off for minimum 2hrs
5 min job to replace though, dead easy
propshaft centre joints wear out, again clunk/knock on drive takeup
rear prop CV joints wear out and prop/joints twist and break the coupling seals, grease on diff joint is telltale sign
rear springs snap like twigs, again 5 min job on a ramp
rear brakes, as stated, handbrake is in rear disc, rarely used unless applied to a stop, 20 mins to change full braking system on rear
make sure a/c condensor has no currosion in lower half and corners
oil leaks from cam cover, sump gasket and headgasket!
thats all for now,
pm me if you ever need any help
Sean (master tech )
always thaught it was BMW only at Ł200 a pop too
E46`s suffer with ABS modules failing giving random fault codes, multiple sensor failure, or brake pressure sensor faults as this is all internal, but remove, send off and refit repaired (dry joints normally)
worn bushes all over suspension
worn rear diffs if driven hard, clonking on drive takeup
clocks fail, loosing half of the facia, BMW only and 600+ (may be cheaper now, jump starting also spikes them!)
rear light clusters, take the plugs off the cluster, they currode like old sierras, BMW sells a repair kit, its a load of wires and terminals and chop out/repair and rebuild plugs
timing chains/tensioners fail over time
air leaks arround manifold area, need a good smoke tester to locate, regular emissions fail with high lambda circa 1.500+
harmonic dampers fail too, DO NOT unbolt the single bolt crank pulleys, this drops tension off the chain and cams jump!
wiring to outside temp sensor fails (located in either bumper brake duct)
heater resistor (hedgehog) fails causing flat battery
VERY VERY VERY hot, do not touch, leave battery off for minimum 2hrs
5 min job to replace though, dead easy
propshaft centre joints wear out, again clunk/knock on drive takeup
rear prop CV joints wear out and prop/joints twist and break the coupling seals, grease on diff joint is telltale sign
rear springs snap like twigs, again 5 min job on a ramp
rear brakes, as stated, handbrake is in rear disc, rarely used unless applied to a stop, 20 mins to change full braking system on rear
make sure a/c condensor has no currosion in lower half and corners
oil leaks from cam cover, sump gasket and headgasket!
thats all for now,
pm me if you ever need any help
Sean (master tech
)
14-05-2013, 03:31 PM
#30
Regular Contributor
I've got a 330ci Clubsport. Can't fault it really
Spent a small fortune on it but thats just been routine maintanence!
Also get PA soft 1.4 for fault diagnosis. Saved me a fortune usuing this and not BMW/indi Garages!
Spent a small fortune on it but thats just been routine maintanence!
Also get PA soft 1.4 for fault diagnosis. Saved me a fortune usuing this and not BMW/indi Garages!
14-05-2013, 05:15 PM
#32
as for M badges, they'll put them on anything, i just don't see the point unless it's a proper M car.
14-05-2013, 05:20 PM
#33
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
If a 6 pot e46 it using a fair amount of engine oil, then the CCV set up needs changing. best part of a working day to do, although can be done without taking the I/manifold off.
14-05-2013, 06:03 PM
#34
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
I've a 330 m sport cab. And have had the breathers replaced inc the ccv.
The car had done over a 100k and were splitting and brittle. Car now runs smoother and feels better and alittle better on fuel
The car had done over a 100k and were splitting and brittle. Car now runs smoother and feels better and alittle better on fuel
14-05-2013, 06:18 PM
#35
Advanced PassionFord User
I am thinking of buying a late model low mileage one. Found a few with great spec and sub 50k mileage for around Ł7k which is a bit of a bargain.
Performance felt a bit slow mind, 231hp and it really didn't feel much different to the 140hp A3 I am running at the moment (both auto - bmw steptronic and audi s-tronic).
But this isn't really a problem and it was really comfortable which is what I look for these days.
Performance felt a bit slow mind, 231hp and it really didn't feel much different to the 140hp A3 I am running at the moment (both auto - bmw steptronic and audi s-tronic).
But this isn't really a problem and it was really comfortable which is what I look for these days.
14-05-2013, 08:08 PM
#37
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
14-05-2013, 09:45 PM
#40
mine round town on the aggressive map sees about 22-23mpg on the economy map it's 25-26mpg.
right footing it everywhere makes it go down to 18 though.
never seen more than an average of 30mpg on a motorway run at 70-75mph though, the split in intake hose may have an effect on this as it won't be metering correctly and running too lean.
a remap is well worth it though, really sharpens up throttle response and gives a little more economy back, at a price though, but with mine i can change between more response and power with the more economical one that is better than factory in response.
right footing it everywhere makes it go down to 18 though.
never seen more than an average of 30mpg on a motorway run at 70-75mph though, the split in intake hose may have an effect on this as it won't be metering correctly and running too lean.
a remap is well worth it though, really sharpens up throttle response and gives a little more economy back, at a price though, but with mine i can change between more response and power with the more economical one that is better than factory in response.
