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All looks good, it would be nice to do a side by side comparison
iv done a 0 to 70 vid of this so il have to do one in my standard one tto and make a vid paul
Originally Posted by kyle_st200
Can't believe how much quicker that revs!!! I always found these zetec engines slow revving wish I'd done that to my st170 when I had it. Loving this looks a good bit of kit
thanks it does make a difference. wish i did it a few wks ago before silverstone lol
That sounds fooking awful. What the fook is causing that.
its the solid flywheel and unsprung clutch. aparently its normal . with the lighter flywheel its not ticking over so smooth and it hunts so the i think its the jerkiness of it causing either the clutch to chatter on flywheel or the gearbox to load and unload. iv heard both reasons given but i dont know which is correct. if i raise the idle it wont be as bad.
Originally Posted by PaulinhoT
Sounds just like my car oh wait, I have a dual mass
the dmf i took off had lots of play in it but was silent on the car.
i raised idle to 950rpm and chatter noise is hardly anthing compared to 850rpm
took it out for a tidy drive earlier and its feeling fast. from what i was reading about lightened flywheels they gain most bhp @wheels increase in 1st then is decreases every gear you go up. 1st gear is rapid now. just a shame i dont use it on track lol. i had a push back in the seat feeling which is not normal for these cars. id say im happy with it.
Last edited by The Underdog; 22-09-2014 at 08:44 PM.
Do you have to change the brank end float on these when doing a dmf like you do on pd130 vw engines? As surely you'll be stressing your crank more if it does require a different one? Or was a dmf a ford gimic for the petrol engine?
its a bloody good mod for alittle bit of time and a bead of weld, wondering where you had been hiding?
if i hadnt seen you do it i wouldnt have known how easy it is. thanks
Originally Posted by SMILER258
Do you have to change the brank end float on these when doing a dmf like you do on pd130 vw engines? As surely you'll be stressing your crank more if it does require a different one? Or was a dmf a ford gimic for the petrol engine?
Fantastic work as always though.
i just swapped dmf for a solid didnt do anything else. dont know anything about vw engines though.
Love this thread. Have read it a couple of times when I bought my 170. I'm doing pretty much the same as you. I sold my MK2 ST to buy a ST170 for the track.
I've had mine a couple of months and done a few things with loads of plans. I've done:
-BC BR coilovers
-Near enough full interior strip
-TD pro race wheels
-AC pump removal and shorter aux belt
-Exhaust manifold wrap
-Gutted out cat
-Corbeaus waiting to be fitted
thanks glad to hear its been of use to you. yours looks good. how are you getting on with it on track. looks like you may need to change the sump soon. car looks in very good condition though. just curious what settings you run your shocks on, i found 15 on front works best for me and 22-27 on rear depending on track.
Cheers. Yeah I will start one at some point. I've only used it once and it was near enough standard apart from strip and AC removal. I was quite surprised how good it was and so we're my friends. The brakes are very good. No fade at all. All I've got there is 5.1 fluid. I'm unsure of BC settings yet as I haven't been on track with them fitted but will for sure will try yours. I'll have another look at the sump, I thought it looked alright. The car has done a few miles but its perfect for track. I felt a bit guilty ripping it up as its top spec fully loaded. Cheers
my sump was similar looking and went downhill fast. once it started to leak it went bad quickly. very common on these.
i felt a bit bad ripping mine apart as it was a good car. but slowly that faded and soon the grinder came out and i hacked it up some more lol
also sorry its 17 clicks on front not 15. experiment with what suits you though. i find that part of the enjoyment of the track day personally making changes and going back out and feeling the difference.
i let my nephew drive so softened rear to 15 so it was a little safer for him. i forgot to reset back up and the difference is big. just bear in mind the stiffer you run the rear apposed to the front the more chance of the back end sliding out.
Last edited by The Underdog; 20-12-2014 at 10:23 PM.
All depends on time really mate, will try and use it as a shake down day, but got a lot to do before then and a lot of money to spend��
But will be there no matter what
my sump was similar looking and went downhill fast. once it started to leak it went bad quickly. very common on these.
i felt a bit bad ripping mine apart as it was a good car. but slowly that faded and soon the grinder came out and i hacked it up some more lol
also sorry its 17 clicks on front not 15. experiment with what suits you though. i find that part of the enjoyment of the track day personally making changes and going back out and feeling the difference.
i let my nephew drive so softened rear to 15 so it was a little safer for him. i forgot to reset back up and the difference is big. just bear in mind the stiffer you run the rear apposed to the front the more chance of the back end sliding out.
OK mate I'll bear the sump in mind.
What oil are you running in yours?
I'll probably head out next with 10 front and 10 rear and work from there I think. Suspension is a big learning curve for me.
All depends on time really mate, will try and use it as a shake down day, but got a lot to do before then and a lot of money to spend��
But will be there no matter what
hopefully we can both make it. look forward to it
Originally Posted by track.focus'd
OK mate I'll bear the sump in mind.
What oil are you running in yours?
I'll probably head out next with 10 front and 10 rear and work from there I think. Suspension is a big learning curve for me.
I've been blackening my xenon's this evening
Lewis
iv been using 5w30 but i have racing 5w40 to go in for next yr
so some new things fitted. last year on a wet track day i had a nightmare with a misting screen as i got rid of heaters. so i came up with a cheap and lightweight alternative.
A 4inch bilge fan and adjustable switch controller.
a cover made out of a roof vent. it draws air from the factory position.
cool mod, wat where the costs?
been thinking of a similar set up.
Fan was £16 and switch £7. I bought a similar switch but blew it cos it was only 3amp and fan is 6amp. Both bought on eBay. This is switch link. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/351259650309?nav=SEARCH
Can I ask, whilst you messed around with the seat rails, did you see a way of lowering the oem seats ?
It would be very difficult to lower the stock base and keep the height and slider adjustment. It would need a clever brain and some time and effort. I'd say not an easy job.
hi mate iam sure your meant to be using a sprung clutch cover if you go solid flywheel. when i phoned ttv they sell the whole kit for around £500 notes including the cover plate , clutch rated to 230ftlbs and the lite flywheel.
it sounds like it still spinning which will only lead to wearing the clutch out and maybe even overheating and smashing the plates off , or scoring your new flywheel and damaging the face.
very impressed with how it revs so i will be going down the ttv route.
hi mate iam sure your meant to be using a sprung clutch cover if you go solid flywheel. when i phoned ttv they sell the whole kit for around £500 notes including the cover plate , clutch rated to 230ftlbs and the lite flywheel.
it sounds like it still spinning which will only lead to wearing the clutch out and maybe even overheating and smashing the plates off , or scoring your new flywheel and damaging the face.
very impressed with how it revs so i will be going down the ttv route.
cool car keep up the good work
cheers paul
Thanks. When you say still spinning what do you mean? I did a little research on going insprung and many have done it on other cars with no issues. I also read many race cars run insprung and the spring damping is mainly for refinement and comfort. I don't completely know whether it's ok or not but time will tell.
so after having problems with my battery wiring being too weak iv upgraded to 365amp 50mm cable.also fitted kill switch to save battery drain from alarm.
19-09-2014, 07:16 PM
oh wait, I have a dual mass 
. with the lighter flywheel its not ticking over so smooth and it hunts so the i think its the jerkiness of it causing either the clutch to chatter on flywheel or the gearbox to load and unload. iv heard both reasons given but i dont know which is correct. if i raise the idle it wont be as bad.
