Project UNDERDOG St170 Track Car
#1
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
Project UNDERDOG St170 Track Car
hi all. just thought id start my own thread on my st170 that i will slowly be turning into a track car. its really a budget build so most parts will be sourced second hand. lack of funds dictate.
so i picked this up a few wks back a silver 53 plate with 109k on clock. say hello to the "underdog" lol
ive already bought some parts and done some work which il post pics of later so thanks for looking in.
so i picked this up a few wks back a silver 53 plate with 109k on clock. say hello to the "underdog" lol
ive already bought some parts and done some work which il post pics of later so thanks for looking in.
Last edited by The Underdog; 19-05-2018 at 08:57 PM.
#4
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
Project UNDERDOG track car ST170
thanks both. iv got simple plans as money is tight but it will be stripped out, coilovers, polybushes. uprated discs pads, air filter, exhaust.. vernier on exhaust cam. possible cage if i can find one used or may make one.
iv already cut off old exhaust
picked up a used powerflow longlife for Ł65 of the bay.
it was tight on the left side so melted bumper so adjusted it today but need to tidy up bumper cut out now.
picked these up from ebay a few wks back
no plans to fit them until i can afford polybushes. but will be soonish.
iv already cut off old exhaust
picked up a used powerflow longlife for Ł65 of the bay.
it was tight on the left side so melted bumper so adjusted it today but need to tidy up bumper cut out now.
picked these up from ebay a few wks back
no plans to fit them until i can afford polybushes. but will be soonish.
Last edited by The Underdog; 19-05-2018 at 08:39 PM.
#6
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
Its got the soggy passenger floor problem so tried repairing the pollen filter seal.
this is how it looked
black silicone all over didnt look nice and didnt work
cut this old silicone off and left with this
cut it back to the glass after this pic so no sealant was left.
i tried re sealing it with clear silicone but it didnt stick so im going to have to try and find out how to seal it properly.
any ideas or help would be appreciated please? stupid ford design to be honest.
this is how it looked
black silicone all over didnt look nice and didnt work
cut this old silicone off and left with this
cut it back to the glass after this pic so no sealant was left.
i tried re sealing it with clear silicone but it didnt stick so im going to have to try and find out how to seal it properly.
any ideas or help would be appreciated please? stupid ford design to be honest.
Last edited by The Underdog; 02-12-2012 at 08:18 PM.
#7
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Yeah just buy the foam seal that ford use lol. Its supposed to be replaced on every service anyway, Fits underneath, Only a couple of Ł!
At worst you'll have to replace the cover if its been warped or cracked, but would only cost buttons from a scrappers or ebay, not that much new from ford either.
At worst you'll have to replace the cover if its been warped or cracked, but would only cost buttons from a scrappers or ebay, not that much new from ford either.
Last edited by atm; 03-12-2012 at 06:35 AM.
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#11
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
my budget acellera tyres were not in the best shape after a few runs. the grip was poor to be honest but still had lots of fun on track.
some pics
some pics
Last edited by The Underdog; 04-12-2012 at 06:44 AM.
#13
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Thread Starter
first time at llandow and its very hard on front lefts. they were in good shape before i went on.
Last edited by The Underdog; 04-12-2012 at 06:46 AM.
#14
st70 build underway
Will look forward to updates on this. I have the bc racing coilovers on my st170 and they have served me well on track so far. You do have to modify the turret tops on the fronts to allow access to the adjustable top mounts as you cannot adjust them without trimming. Design flaw IMO but they handle well.
#15
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
Will look forward to updates on this. I have the bc racing coilovers on my st170 and they have served me well on track so far. You do have to modify the turret tops on the fronts to allow access to the adjustable top mounts as you cannot adjust them without trimming. Design flaw IMO but they handle well.
how much did you lower yours by?. im thinking of 30-35mm.
how did you modify your turrets did you put slots in them. thats what im thinking.
im planning on a full tidy up and paint underneath when i change the bushes.may start it in the hols. im not planning on concours clean but hoping for very clean.
itching to get started. just need time and money, oh and dry weather as i aint got a comfy garage
#16
st70 build underway
mine is down around 65mm over standard which is as low as it will go without causing real problems although it scrapes if it goes over curbs or humps to fast the front lower strut brace and rear sway bar also ride low with the ride height
some pics of ride height if you are interested currently sitting on road tyres
quick spec from the list I did when I was trying to sell it in case it gives you some ideas as most of the parts fitted were down to people giving me advice and help
BC racing coilovers with adjustable top mounts can be cornerweighted and adjusted for camber
Coilovers set up for optimal handling at Jamsport
Dampers can be adusted on the car with top adjusters front and rear
Rear upper Jamsport strut brace bolted into rear wings
Rear lower whiteline adjustable sway bar
Front eibach arb
Omp front lower strut brace
E-tech front upper strut brace
Eibach rear camber bolts
Magnex 4" catback stainless exhaust
Miltek decat pipe (mapped to run without EML coming on)
Alternative scorpion sports cat (for MOT)
Exhaust is loud and pops and bangs not suitable for anyone who wants a quiet car noise tested at 102DB at last test
Dreamscience stratagem handset
Currently mapped on RACE95CAIS map which allows you to run a decat without putting EML light on
Can be run on RACE97CAIS which adds to the power for track use but does not help MPG
K & N typhoon induction kit with heatshield
exhaust cam retimed for acceleration
Scangauge hardwired with OBD splitter cable to allow use of 2 OBD devices
Goodridge braided hoses front and rear
Front black diamond combi drilled and grooved discs
Front ferodo racing ds2500 pads
Motul race fluid
Cobra monaco pro drivers and passenger front seats (in FIA date)
Cobra evo (trs) 5 point FIA spec 4" harnesses for driver and passenger (in FIA date)
OMP wrc steering wheel
OMEX rev limiter with launch control with cowling mounted button
pro race 1.2s with r888's and oz superturismos with v7oa's
probably more that I can't remember
st170s get a lot of criticism as they are fairly slow and not particulary impressive but I have had a great deal of fun in mine and the reliability has never let me down on track
rear mounts (adjustable on the car)
front mounts
you can see where the turret has been trimed slightly to allow the adjustable top mount to be accessable. They can just bolt straight on but if you don't trim the turret you cannot adjust the camber once they are on the car hence the design flaw
I did initially have some concerns about the trimming but it was all set up by Jamsport who I trust and it handles spot on when cornering hard.
If I still have it next year it will be getting a full cage fitted as I have been taking it very easy on the track without one.
al
some pics of ride height if you are interested currently sitting on road tyres
quick spec from the list I did when I was trying to sell it in case it gives you some ideas as most of the parts fitted were down to people giving me advice and help
BC racing coilovers with adjustable top mounts can be cornerweighted and adjusted for camber
Coilovers set up for optimal handling at Jamsport
Dampers can be adusted on the car with top adjusters front and rear
Rear upper Jamsport strut brace bolted into rear wings
Rear lower whiteline adjustable sway bar
Front eibach arb
Omp front lower strut brace
E-tech front upper strut brace
Eibach rear camber bolts
Magnex 4" catback stainless exhaust
Miltek decat pipe (mapped to run without EML coming on)
Alternative scorpion sports cat (for MOT)
Exhaust is loud and pops and bangs not suitable for anyone who wants a quiet car noise tested at 102DB at last test
Dreamscience stratagem handset
Currently mapped on RACE95CAIS map which allows you to run a decat without putting EML light on
Can be run on RACE97CAIS which adds to the power for track use but does not help MPG
K & N typhoon induction kit with heatshield
exhaust cam retimed for acceleration
Scangauge hardwired with OBD splitter cable to allow use of 2 OBD devices
Goodridge braided hoses front and rear
Front black diamond combi drilled and grooved discs
Front ferodo racing ds2500 pads
Motul race fluid
Cobra monaco pro drivers and passenger front seats (in FIA date)
Cobra evo (trs) 5 point FIA spec 4" harnesses for driver and passenger (in FIA date)
OMP wrc steering wheel
OMEX rev limiter with launch control with cowling mounted button
pro race 1.2s with r888's and oz superturismos with v7oa's
probably more that I can't remember
st170s get a lot of criticism as they are fairly slow and not particulary impressive but I have had a great deal of fun in mine and the reliability has never let me down on track
rear mounts (adjustable on the car)
front mounts
you can see where the turret has been trimed slightly to allow the adjustable top mount to be accessable. They can just bolt straight on but if you don't trim the turret you cannot adjust the camber once they are on the car hence the design flaw
I did initially have some concerns about the trimming but it was all set up by Jamsport who I trust and it handles spot on when cornering hard.
If I still have it next year it will be getting a full cage fitted as I have been taking it very easy on the track without one.
al
#18
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
thanks aj my next question was gona be have you got some pics so you read my mind. have you had a rolling road to see what BHP your getting? im planning on vernier in time but what do you think of it? notice the difference? and are you running it -6 degrees?
sorry lots of questions.i may be pestering you in future as i have lots of Qs.
nice spec you have though.
nev i can see you enjoyed cocking a wheel at llandow, lol. first time for me there even though i live very close. always put off by it because its a small track and didnt think it would be that good but i was wrong, i had great fun there.
sorry lots of questions.i may be pestering you in future as i have lots of Qs.
nice spec you have though.
nev i can see you enjoyed cocking a wheel at llandow, lol. first time for me there even though i live very close. always put off by it because its a small track and didnt think it would be that good but i was wrong, i had great fun there.
#19
st70 build underway
not had it on a rolling road although I imagine it is probably just over the claimed standard power as the recorded 0 - 60 is just under the manufacturer claimed time. The car handles far better than it goes.
the only mod which actually gave me a real noticable difference was the remap which made it pull a fair bit harder.
from what I have read the exhaust cam vernier does not actually add power in itself it simply means that you can advance or retard the timing by adjusting the pulley on the car without taking the cambelt off. from what I have read most people who fit the aftermarket vernier simply retard the timing when fitting it and then never adjust it again. I had the timing retarded by 8 degrees with the standard pulley which gives the same benifit without buying the aftermarket one. Although a piper or kent one is cheap I don't think they are worth buying TBH.
the best modification I did to mine was the bucket seats and harnesses and grippy steering wheel
I went round silverstone driving a standard st170 and the seats were rubbish for suport in the corners. The bucket seats and harnesses give you far more confidence in the corners and you are supported and don't slide around. I have also had a few spins in it and have always stayed secure in the seats although it will be getting a cage before going back out on the bigger tracks.
if I can help out with any other queries would be happy to although most of the knowledge I have has come from advice from others who have helped me out.
I have been to Llandow a few times and really enjoyed it.
the pics of the white car look great and have enjoyed reading the build thread on it.
al
the only mod which actually gave me a real noticable difference was the remap which made it pull a fair bit harder.
from what I have read the exhaust cam vernier does not actually add power in itself it simply means that you can advance or retard the timing by adjusting the pulley on the car without taking the cambelt off. from what I have read most people who fit the aftermarket vernier simply retard the timing when fitting it and then never adjust it again. I had the timing retarded by 8 degrees with the standard pulley which gives the same benifit without buying the aftermarket one. Although a piper or kent one is cheap I don't think they are worth buying TBH.
the best modification I did to mine was the bucket seats and harnesses and grippy steering wheel
I went round silverstone driving a standard st170 and the seats were rubbish for suport in the corners. The bucket seats and harnesses give you far more confidence in the corners and you are supported and don't slide around. I have also had a few spins in it and have always stayed secure in the seats although it will be getting a cage before going back out on the bigger tracks.
if I can help out with any other queries would be happy to although most of the knowledge I have has come from advice from others who have helped me out.
I have been to Llandow a few times and really enjoyed it.
the pics of the white car look great and have enjoyed reading the build thread on it.
al
#21
PassionFord Post Troll
Can't wait for next years track days, will be good to see a few more focus out, there are a underrated, you get them set up well and there as good as you can get in a fwd set up.
#23
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
yeh aj i agree about seats. i want some buckets in time but wont be straight away. at turn 1 of llandow by the tower i was sliding onto the drivers door a few times and it aint a good feeling.
my plan is to get a harness first using standard seat for a while and hope this will hold me in better. aj was you at llandow the same day as me on 29 sept. your car seems familiar?? really appreciate any advice or tips so keep them coming. your setup is what im aiming for long term. id love nevs car as that thing looks awesome specced but my wife has got me in a headlock with my spending already lol
nev the focus is an awesome handling car in my opinion. my brother has had a clio 182 and 172 cup and now has the civic type r in the vid i linked and he thinks the st170 is better handling than all of them. definately underated cars.
thanks to all who have posted and feel free to give me any advice you can. cheers
my plan is to get a harness first using standard seat for a while and hope this will hold me in better. aj was you at llandow the same day as me on 29 sept. your car seems familiar?? really appreciate any advice or tips so keep them coming. your setup is what im aiming for long term. id love nevs car as that thing looks awesome specced but my wife has got me in a headlock with my spending already lol
nev the focus is an awesome handling car in my opinion. my brother has had a clio 182 and 172 cup and now has the civic type r in the vid i linked and he thinks the st170 is better handling than all of them. definately underated cars.
thanks to all who have posted and feel free to give me any advice you can. cheers
#25
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
we were both on the same make of budget tyres too. next time im gona be better prepared
Last edited by The Underdog; 07-12-2012 at 05:57 PM.
#26
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Thread Starter
im after some advice about what to do to clean up underside please?
i dont want to strip back to bare metal has i havent got the patience or facilitys but want it looking as good as it can be.
all the suspension is being stripped of to replace bushes and luckily my mate has his own powdercoating machine and sand blaster so all the black parts are getting some real love.
as for chassis i would like to just treat rusted areas then aerosol silver over the whole bottom but searched and dont know whats the best way to do this and what to use.
iv searched loads of old threads and most say strip to bare metal but surely theres an easier way i can paint over 90% of whats already there?
heres some pics i quickly took in the dark with a torch so not the best.
i dont want to strip back to bare metal has i havent got the patience or facilitys but want it looking as good as it can be.
all the suspension is being stripped of to replace bushes and luckily my mate has his own powdercoating machine and sand blaster so all the black parts are getting some real love.
as for chassis i would like to just treat rusted areas then aerosol silver over the whole bottom but searched and dont know whats the best way to do this and what to use.
iv searched loads of old threads and most say strip to bare metal but surely theres an easier way i can paint over 90% of whats already there?
heres some pics i quickly took in the dark with a torch so not the best.
Last edited by The Underdog; 07-12-2012 at 06:15 PM.
#28
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Thread Starter
i am planning on stripping back the rusted areas but i just dont want to strip the whole underside when its in good shape as it is. i looked at por15 for putting over rusted areas when i clean them back but would this acid etch key the rust free parts so i can spray over it all and it not peel off?
#29
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
done as much research on por15 as i can find so now my plan is to grind/wire wheel on drill all the rust areas then clean with marine wash. then prep and ready (metal ready) on the rust.
non rusted areas will be wire brushed or sanded to key then marine washed then the whole underside will get silver por15 paint.
the black suspension bits may get done candy red powdercoat which my mate suggested and i kinda like the idea.
hope to crack on in next few wks.
non rusted areas will be wire brushed or sanded to key then marine washed then the whole underside will get silver por15 paint.
the black suspension bits may get done candy red powdercoat which my mate suggested and i kinda like the idea.
hope to crack on in next few wks.
#30
st70 build underway
yeah mate went a few times earlier in the year that was the last one we went to. It is a bit of a trek from birmingham but worth it. It was a good day out. will probably come up a few times next year as well.
#31
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Thread Starter
day off work so made a start by stripping off rear subframe, rear bumper and arch liners. just took a load of pics so will pop them all up.
#33
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
Looks to me like you've got away lightly with the state of the floor! I got a real scare when I pulled my rear wing liners out! Still, nothing an hour with a wire wheel in a hand drill couldn't sort
Keep up the good work
Keep up the good work
#34
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
im sure i read a post from you a little while back about when you removed liners, and that got me a little scared about what i would find on mine.
luckily its sound as a pound. some surface rust areas but arch lips are solid with no rust at all. underneath also is very good for a 9 yr old ford.
many moons ago i bought a saph cosworth and that was 9 yr old at the time and in comparison to this it was dog ruff and needed chassis welding.
got por15 , marine wash and metal prep on order so after that goes on it should be ok.
my mate has ordered me some marine blue powder coat that he will be doing on subframe and suspension parts too.
think im gona peee myself
#38
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Thread Starter
yeh weather was great that day too and some nice cars on track. maybe see you at llandow next year again then. hope to do pembrey and castle coombe too.
#40
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Thread Starter
had a mare trying to split all the parts off the subframe. ended up doing this to most of the bolts.
even on some of the bolts i could bet undone the shaft was seized to bush so still had to cut them and both sides of each bolt to get the arms out.
i was able to push bush out of these arms but if you look at the next 2 pics are the outer metal parts of the bush still stuck in or is this a part of the arm???
iv not got my new poly ones yet so not sure whats what?
also as i bought the coils used of the bay i was wondering if i got the right rear springs when i took old springs off. the size diff is huge?
thanks for loooooking
even on some of the bolts i could bet undone the shaft was seized to bush so still had to cut them and both sides of each bolt to get the arms out.
i was able to push bush out of these arms but if you look at the next 2 pics are the outer metal parts of the bush still stuck in or is this a part of the arm???
iv not got my new poly ones yet so not sure whats what?
also as i bought the coils used of the bay i was wondering if i got the right rear springs when i took old springs off. the size diff is huge?
thanks for loooooking