Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

I bet them tyres werent cheap.

PaulinhoT

Not that bad, although I've only done 50 miles on them so far, so haven't really had the chance to test them

PaulinhoT

Well folks I've not got much of an update, but I decided to spend a little time cleaning my wheels today. I wanted to take the wheels off and do them one by one, but my plans of taking tomorrow off (Bank Holiday Monday) isn't going to happen, so I need my car in the morning.

Dirty wheels.



I don't know how many of you have one of these, but they are brilliant.



Basically they allow all of the dirt to float to the bottom of your bucket, and thus not contaminating your cleaning cloth a little crazy for my tired old wheels, but I enjoy it



So to start with I gave the wheels a simply wash with some car shampoo. This allowed me to get most of the dirt off of the wheels, before I gave them a real going over with some Bilberry cleaner.



This was the first coat, where upon I used a brush to work it into all of the corners of each spoke. Then I sprayed it on and allowed it to soak for about 5 minutes.



After this I rinsed each wheel down making sure all of the chemical was removed. Then once I had used my microfiber cloth to dry each wheel, I sprayed them over with some Auto Glym product to seal the wheel.



In all honesty the wheels need a refurbishment or maybe I will make them my winter wheels, and treat myself to some nice new ones with sticky tires for the summer

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

I hate cleaning these wheels. Ive thought about putting my momo arrows on my ST17O.

PaulinhoT

They are a real pain to clean, and I would like to change mine at some point. I've not seen any Momo Arrows for a few years

STeve

iTrader: (11)

only reason I am keeping my 5 spokes is wheel cleaning as the oz is strictly for shows lol

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Steve this is one of the reasons i wanna put my momos back on cause they will be easy to clean.

PaulinhoT

So the sun is out, and I'm off work today, I've done the gardening and thought I would put my open filter system back on. Mainly because I miss the sound it makes

Have to love a little bit of hose


Before:


After:


This really is a 10 minute job now, the only difference this time is that I've left the OEM cold air feed connected and not fitted my blue pipe work through the lower grill. I'm going to see if it runs any different, but I suspect it won't. What I "may" do is use the outlet of the oem cold feed and make an enclosure box/heat shield for it

The other thing I noticed is a couple of tiny bubbles on my rear arch, the underside has already been treated, so will take a proper look soon.



Time to replace it ? or try and find some wide arch bodge

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Does the cone filter sound any good.

I would put one on mine if there was any gains in power.

I think ive got a faulty fuel pump on my ST17O. My back arches are bubbling a bit too. I hate rust lol.

PaulinhoT

The filter on mine sounds rather noisy but it is rather large I want to fit a Grp A sized one to it, but I don't think it will fit in the location beside the battery. Oddly enough taking it to work and back today it felt a lot smother around the 3000rpm area, despite me feeling that it made that flat spot worse when I originally fitted it, so go figure, I've no idea why that is so ? could of just been because it was cold this morning.

The faulty fuel pump sounds a pain, but are known to cause problems (according to the internet). Rust is a bloody pain, although in fairness they are the smallest of bubbles, but just knowing it's coming through is a pain

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Ive noticed now when the engine is cold the engine will pull through the rev range right to 7k but when warm the engine struggles to pull from 4k onwards.

I remember years and years ago i changed the fuel pump on my mams mk1 1.6 16v focus on her drive. I had to move the exhaust out the way and drop the tank.

H3lsing

I would do the fuel filter first before removing that pig of a fuel pump. Unless your sure the pump isn't doing it's job properly.

PaulinhoT

So the sunshine is back, and I was out this morning briefly doing a few jobs on my ST170, and although my project isn't really moving along very quickly, I'm enjoying the little jobs I do as and when I can

One thing I wanted to do as direct the cold air feed a little more towards the cone filter, so I used a bit of air ducting tube and curved it around at a right angle. Now I'm sure it will make little to no difference, but this is all temporary until I can work out what I am really going to do



The other little job I wanted to do was the gear knob, as some of the black in the numbers had worn away.



So having removed all of the black, I painted the top of the lever in a bright yellow



I then picked the remainder off, and lightly sanded it before adding a clear coat to the top.



Now I'm not to sure what has happened, but the clear coat seems to have a little "off", surely not due to the amount of heat in the car ? more than likely my mistake somewhere along the line. But I will rung it for a week, then sand it back next week and redo it

H3lsing

Looks fine unless your a bit ocd about it but I wouldn't. i taught you might feed the cold air directly into the end of the cone filter.

PaulinhoT

That is a better idea, cheers, I hadn't really thought of that

PaulinhoT

After going into work this morning, I thought I would do a couple more little jobs I've wanted to do for some time now.

I wanted to changed the fog light surround to black, along with the grills, so I decided to take them off and give them a bit of black treatment

The areas behind needed a clean





Removed and cleaned up.


I gave these a light sanding to give the paint something to hold onto.


Masked up the grill



Then oddly none of the rest of the photos I took on my phone were saved ? So I only have this one



Also the blue bits I did on the fog surround actually got wet, it was lovely and sunny out, I sprayed them in the garage, let them drive for a bit. Then moved them outside in a box to "air", and when I looked around It was raining typically for about 2 mins so they have tiny dots on them lol.

JC600

Looking good mate.

PaulinhoT

Cheers, hoping this weekend is dry to, so I can do a few more bits

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Tip top. Your head light lenses could do with a buff or replacing.

PaulinhoT

Yeah I only had them done a year ago hopefully I can take a look this weekend

PaulinhoT

So another weekend comes around, and it's been an odd day so far, but I have managed to do some of the little jobs I planned on doing last weekend all be it for the weather to change.

First job was to clean off some bird poo which I hate lol, but next job was to work on cleaning my headlights. I used a Meguiars headlight restoration kit, and it's a lot better than it was.







The next part of the plan was to take off the scuttle panel and spray it, and I started to undo the clips and remembered it was stuck to the windscreen so I took a quick look at the pollen filter and that needs changing to, so I clipped it back down and will order the filter at work on Monday. So not much of an update, but tomorrow in-between the BTCC races I want to take some measurements for my hosing and ducting

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Tip top matey. I could do with painting my grill and the bumper is in a bit of a state too.

PaulinhoT

So a long overdue update regarding my ST170'ish.

A couple of days ago I had to use a Mk1 1.6 Zetec Focus for about 20 miles, and although the car lacked a little punch compared to my ST, it wasn't actually a massive off set in power, which got me thinking, how down on power is my car ? yes it's quicker, but it didn't feel hugely different and certainly not 70+ bhp more than the 1.6 (factory figures).

So I made a decision to get my car onto a rolling road and get a base figure, and however far off it was from 170bhp, I would do my best to get it back to wear it "should" be. Now the only thing was I wanted to get the engine management light off as it's been on for a long time now (although the car runs really well).

When I had the car originally the EML came on, and it was diagnosed as being the Intake Manifold Runner Control being at fault, so as posted very early on in my thread, I took it apart a few times, and fixed it a couple of times, but seeing as the light remained on, well this Sunday I thought I would take another look to make sure it was fine and still working.

I got my girlfriend to start my car whilst I observed the IMRC, at which point the cable pulled tight (towards the radiator) and upon her revving the engine really high (over 5k) the cable and mechanism worked fine.

This made me believe that despite the car running pretty well (flat spot aside), maybe it just needed the usual things, i.e. plugs, coil pack, oil change, etc and having looked at the history of the car, it was done about 7000 miles ago, and due to lots of short trips I thought I would get it changed anyway.

So at lunch time today I had the mechanic take the fault codes from the car and print them off for me, so I could then get them sorted out and get a base reading on a rolling road.

Well the car came up with two codes, the first being P0420 which relates to the catalyst.



I kind of figure on this one, as the exhaust and catalyst was on the list of things I planned on changing, although it's emissions on the MOT in April were fine.

The second code, which I hadn't expected was P1381 which is related to the variable cam timing being over advanced ?



I didn't really have time at lunch to talk through this one, but the cambelt etc was done 4 years ago, but less than 10k ago, and the drive belt and lower pulley about 10 months ago. So although that doesn't seem that long ago, again I had kind of thought maybe I should get it changed ? and as I wanted to change the front cam pulley(?), I could get it all done at the same time, but I can't really see how the timing could be wrong ? or doesn't it actually mean that ? because if that's the case, it's been like it for 3 years, and if the belt had jumped, surely the car would of lunched itself by now ?

The car pulls pretty well, has two flat spots around 3000rpms and 5000rpms but these aren't really flat spots, they feel more like soft changes which I always thought was IMRC related. The car will idle all day long, and returns an average of around 22-25 mpg (less if it's pushed on a little). It doesn't smoke or burn oil, I've only topped it up about once in around 7000 miles, plus I use high quality 5w30 oil from the Ford garage.

Can anyone shed any advice as to what this code is actually related to ? thanks.

Freeked

P0420 is well known in the Focus ST170/SVT world...it's related to the lambda sensor or the cat being broken. One of the two...but I would try to change the lambda sensor first...and later fit a new cat or a decat pipe.

P1381 is know to be related to a not so correct procedure in changing the timing belt. There is a way to fix this that I found in another forum community. If you need it, I can PM you with the link.
It does not involve replacing the timing belt but...I it was me...I would change everything and do the correct procedure.

STeve

iTrader: (11)

feel free to add the link on here, I have only seen this once where the cam pulleys needed to be loosened at time of new belt installation to re-centre the timing

PaulinhoT

I'm happy to get the timing belt changed, along with all of the other parts needed, but are there any options on "upgrading" the parts ? In addition to this, the same goes for the catalyst, what are the best options, or the best known replacement.

Thanks again for the info

Today the mechanic said he thinks maybe the timing belt could have stretched

STeve

iTrader: (11)

I replaced most of my parts through boredom rather than need tbh, I would not go for a decat tbh even though they are cheap a decent sports cat or a half decent aftermarket cat is better than a knackered OE one as they crumble internally regular as I see it all the time when breaking 170s, the belt I went for was gates racing blue timing belt kit came with idler and pulley

this link is helpful for code p1381

http://www.dj-sures.com/GraphicFiles...%20Timing.html

PaulinhoT

Thanks for the information and link I will have a read, and I will also do some research on sports cats and look into the gates timing belt and kit, thank you D

Wilde_UK

Watching this closely as I'm on the hunt for a decent sports cat for my ST170 too!

Freeked

Well, the only way to do it without removing major stuff from the engine, is this way:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/4719247-post18.html


This is the normal procedure that comes in Ford Etis...but in my case with the engine apart, you should do it as I linked above...to kind of "reset" the intake pulley and avoid the ECU throwing a code. It's the safest and easiest way I found.

I've also upgraded to the Gates Racing timing belt and kept the Ford idler and tensioner...people over the pond say it's the strongest and most of them run them. Even the turbo guys...

As far for the cat, agreed on them crumbling inside...and from what I've read people that removed them and used a decat, gave the car a tune and it was miles better. The thing is...on this cars, everything that you do to the car, regarding exhaust or intake, a tune up is a must!!
A well know tuner in the US, told me if you run 3'' exhaust from the manifold to the back and with a tune, only with that...the car would see almost 7whp and someone supported that with a dyno chart...(I'll try and find that thread...).

Freeked

Here it goes: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/f...-inch-exh.html

What most people say is that, only the 3'' exhaust is a certain lost in torque and hp, if not tuned correctly.
I'll let you all read and make your conclusions

PaulinhoT

Well again not much of an update, but I'm really busy at work with virtually no time off, but that's a good thing

I was off today so spent a little time putting a wet rag over the car, in a hope to remove some of the dirt.

Dirty wheels



A quick spray with some Wilberry wheel cleaner



A little brush work and a rinse off



Then the tyres



I may order a new badge, as this ones starting to go a little pink.



I then ended up washing the whole car, and will hopefully do the interior tomorrow

mattxr3i

Cam timing being out will affect power so worth getting it re-timed at the very least. Shouldn't take long either so not that expensive and it will get back the lost power and make it smoother.

JC600

Looking good mate

PaulinhoT

Thanks, I will have a chat with the mechanic tomorrow

mattxr3i

On my 1.8 I was struggling to get power out of it and the cam timing was half a tooth out, made a real difference.

Forgot to say, nice car btw - Capri Blue?

PaulinhoT

It is Capri Blue, and thank you I know everyone says 170's aren't that quick, but mine just doesn't feel crisp, if that makes any sense.

In a couple of weeks time, I should have a few days to be able to go through it all, but I will get them to check the timing first, as the cam belt was done about 7-9k miles ago.

PaulinhoT

So another month has gone by, well flown by to be honest, I shouldn't complain as work has really been busy, and I only saw 4 days of August but that's o.k. more money in the bank as they say.

Not much of an update (again), although I spent a few hours today giving parts of the car a clean, and I was planning on trying out some new wax, but the daylight vanished, so it will have to wait until tomorrow.

In the photo below I removed the number plate to clean behind that, as it's something I hadn't don't before, it also gave me better access to the number plate light etc.



(I was tempted to remove the little bit of foam, but thought best not to).

Next was to clean behind the rear lights, which is something I planned on doing last summer, but never got the chance.

This is behind the driver side rear light, which wasn't that bad.



After a quick clean.



I then tackled the near side rear light.



This area had a massive clump of dirt , I suspect it's been hidden away for years, It's now cleaner.



I'm much happier now it's been done, I followed this by washing the car, then removing 99% of the tar stuck to the sides, followed by a clay. I then washed it down again, by which time the light was getting bad, so I dried the car off, and put some wax just on the roof and the bonnet.



On Sunday the plan is to do the rest of the exterior, followed by a vacuum and dust inside and if I get time I will do the wheels along with the tyres and glass.

PaulinhoT

So today the cleaning continued on the list today was a little more clay work, but I dropped my clay bar whilst I was working on some tar marks near the wheel arch, so sadly that put an end to that

I did do the interior, gave it all a dust and a vacuum, and wiped over all the controls and switches. I then set about doing the glass, as last time I forgot to do the tops of the windows, so I did that first.



After I had cleaned both the inside glass and the outside glass, I then went over it all with some Rain-X, as I find it a really good product, and a good investment.



If you've not tried it, then I can highly recommend it

I then gave the car a complete wax with my MadWax, I find it so easy to work with, and a great product given the price. Apart from my paint issues and marks, it came up a real treat.



After this I did a little work under the bonnet, and tyres etc, then checked things like oil and screen wash etc. So all in all about 6-7 hours in total spent cleaning the car this weekend

Now I have to sit down and look at some parts i.e. exhaust and timing belt etc.

JC600

Looking good mate