simontrayler

Hey guys,

Just picked up my Series 2 RS Turbo today from Manchester... Good 190 mile trip home... Lets say it was eventful!

The car runs sooooo hot, sits right below the red majority of time and sometimes it was up over the red... Scary stuff as I know they don't like getting that hot. The car already has twin fans fitted which I am going to fit a manual override switch onto tomorrow, I have already dropped some more anti freeze into the header, anyone have any other suggestions to keep her cool please???? (already has bonnet lifters also!)

The minute I come on boost and give it some beans, the temp just goes up, fast :-S Last one I had did that a popped a core plug and split the block (1900 Power engineering CVH, and that was on the way home from collecting that too!)

Any help would be awesome, I just want to drive it but am not going to running that hot. I 2.1's do run warm, but over the red!!

So, will having the fans on a switch help? Anyone done anything else? Help.

Also as a final quick one, any recco's on what HT Leads to get for her. One kept popping out on the way home and when I looked it was, errr, screwed...

Thanks all )

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

I take it you just bought my bro's old s2 from Dan in manchester, we sold this car a few months ago to him, i did all the body work and engine build, it NEVER ran anywhere near the middle of the gauge, but then i do know the buyer replaced the gauges as the fuel gauge stopped working, best thing to do is give it a boot and then pull over, pop the bonnet and check all hoses are hot and not to pressurised etc and that the fans are coming in and out ok, no condensation from the exhaust when its hot, not oil residue in the header tank or within the oil filler cap, if all this is ok i would say the gauge is reading wrong, there's no need to start messing with something that isnt broke like putting over ride switches etc in it. As for the plug leads its already running motorsport leads so if its the coil lead is popping out the dizzy just open the end of the lead connector up with a pair of pliers so its a tighter fit, job done.

Ben26

the first thing i would do is make sure the termostat is opening , if in doubt just run it without one and see what happens.


what rad are u running ?

luke19790_3

try a different gauge, ford ones do lie

simontrayler

Hi mate,

Yeah it was off Dan! Nice to chatting with the man who built it I must say

Okay understood. There is a slight bubble on the top rad silicone hose to thermo housing which may not be helping... I have new one arriving Monday to pop on. I actually broke down on the way home yesterday too as the petrol gauge was reading a quarter of tank out :-S

So I recon the the temp and fuel gauges are buggered... New set I think with some new HT leads and the hose changed, lets hope she runs at the right temp then... Dan did say that she always ran hot with him too... I thought it wasn't right.

The HT leads have seen better days if I honest, we cant even get one of to stay on and we have tried pliers and even taking the rubber of the end carefully and seeing if it will. It won't :-( Ow well, leads arent the end of the world!

She kicks out a cloud under load but its just excess fuel I think, no sign of blue smoke!!

As you built her mate, any danger you could just confirm the spec of the engine/turbo again etc for me again please? Always nice to hear from the horses mouth

Lastly, you did an amazing job putting that car back together again. A credit to you!

She going in next week to have to few bubbles on the roof done and on the skuttle, plus being treated to some Morettes and 90 spec front and rear

I will also check the thermostat, cheers guys, lets hope this sorts the problem!! Rad is Air-tec

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

I would say if there gonna do the roof again is to drop the roof lining and spray/brush as much of that rust eater you can on the inside of the roof as that’s gonna be where is stemming from, i would try an independent gauge for the temp just wire one up and run it inside the car just temporary to make sure its ok, i personally think it should be as the standard gauges where naff when my bro had it. The engine spec was 2ltr zetec bottom with 86mm xe pistons, new oil pump, bearings, arp bolts, massive ported head with an rpm cam, sitech racing multi layer steel head gasket and head bolts, stage 3 .48 garret turbo, grs cooler, airtec rad, -31 actuator, chipped ecu's, 4 paddle clutch with the mk5 clutch peddle conversion

simontrayler

Coswurv,

Your the man... Yeah I recon its just a combination of silly things. As I say I change the gauges, hose etc and I recon she will be okay... Just naff/old gauges!!

Cheers mate, feel a lot happier and safer after speaking to you...

So I guess you work on RS's/Cossie's for a living then?

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

No mate ive just been involved with cars and reasonable tuning for a good few years, i think you should be ok, if you need any help with it etc just ask im sure your not that far away from me.

simontrayler

Cheers buddy that means alot! well you clearly know your stuff

Yeah I'm pretty close to you actually buddy, Im in Hertfordshire which isn't that far from Oxford.

My names Si by the buddy, whats yours as I'm sure its not Coswurv? Although that may be kinda cool, ha ha

RSricRS

iTrader: (2)

Your gauge will be reading wrong, mine is the same it always worried me but when i had the car mapped the pectal monitor was reading much lower temps than the gauge was.

If your car was above the red it would fuck the header tank cap right off!!!

New set of clocks mates.

simontrayler

Cheers everyone, seems you all agree which is good news and as such I have purchased a mint set of new clocks off fleabay for Ł40 delivered

simontrayler

Coswurv, quick question if I may mate... Dan has told me the engine you built is designed to run 20psi with ease. At the moment its only running at 11.5psi so I was going to take it to a mate of mine who has a rolling road (works in La Mans as an engineer and knows RS's inside and out!) and get the boost turned up to 20psi.

Was this your intention also and as you built the engine, do you personally think this is a wise move? Will the engine take it? Just after your opinion as who knows it better than you (for now!)

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

Well the best bet is to have it set up on the rr to see how much boost the fueling can cope with as thats going to be your main obsticle, i personally think the components and turbo is good for it, i dont think without some kind of 5th injector it will run 20psi i maybe wrong and im sure someone will correct me, your next issue will be gearbox i would think.

simontrayler

OKay cool .Yeah I've been told the management maybe an issue, but we are going to get it to run as much boost as it can with the current management/fuelling then my buddy is going to source some kind of Pectal management to go on, T2 or T4 he tells me, with the relevant bits and we will put some managment on there!

Yeah, knew the box would be the next step. This chap also knows how to build gearboxes and we have a friend who works for Quiffe who has said we can have we need at cost Should be go to go then...

simontrayler

Hi guys,

Right, still trying to get this temp issue in hand! I've put a new set of clocks in it now, same problems! I've replaced the coolant hose that was leaking now too. The fans are cutting it and I'm not even sure if its running as hot as the gauge indicates, as has been said, it would fuck the header cap straight off!

So what would you try next please? Why is the temp gauge all over the place, normally at the top of it too.

Help please

simontrayler

I've already bought an Oil cooler thats on route too... Just so you know

Canada1

I suggest you perform (or have a shop) pressure test your cooling system.
This will tall you if you have a faulty head gasket as well.
Fluctuating temperature is usually a faulty temperature gauge or sender - or a leaking head gasket.