Another one going for 200mph!(full fia/msa spec caged racecar)

[RickyLee53]

You'd gone offline so thought i'd post it up in here. Thats the big cooler with the stock end tanks, looks like it needs some work, I've had an idea and will try it tomorrow if i get chance.

If you were logged in, you wouldn't be seeing this ad! Register your free account today, or log in if you already have an account.

[turbotoaster]

my new intercooler arrived today so i thought id chuck some pics up.

Now originally i had decided to go with a 70mm thick rs500 intercooler, the reason for this is that it would fit pretty well into the enginebay and is known to flow well for 700bhp.

When i was chatting to my manifold guy on msn he mentioned inlet/outlet sizes, i said well the standard cossie is 2.5inch throttle body and the rs500 was 3inch from what i had been told, so if its aimed at the 700bhp market then it will have 3inch pipes(it didnt say on the website) He recommended i check with them just incase.

I emailed them and they confirmed that they were infact only 2.5inch......since the outlet of my turbo is already being reduced from 3.5in to 3inch i didnt want to go down in size again, asking how much it would be to cut them off and weld in 3in he said £60-80, which would take the price of the cooler up to £370 which in my eyes was to much as i would have to make savings somewhere else to hit budget.

So then i looked at other options and come across this cooler i now have recieved.

They retail at £180 on ebay but luckily they had on that was on auction, with a bid of sniping i got it for £72!! Now i again need some work doing to it but its a big saving over the other cooler

the core is 600mmx290mmx120mm...yep its a thick one.

it has a larger overall capacity than the 70mm cooler and ive seen it push 900bhp in america so hopefully it will do the job for me.



big box arrives this morning!


woohoo, no damage anywhere


its rather thick


its also rather bloody heavy!


put in hotwater for 10mins to test for any air leaks, seems fine


compared to standard cooler

now just need to do some measurements to compare it on the car to see what needs to be modded to fit

[furry]

Originally Posted by ajamesc

standard e36m3s do 180 lol wear on earth did u get that from then? for a start there factory limited to 155 lol

early 93/94 models weren't limited, i had a 93 dakar in standard trim that hit 172 on Gps before i ran out of road.

[ajamesc]

Originally Posted by furry

early 93/94 models weren't limited, i had a 93 dakar in standard trim that hit 172 on Gps before i ran out of road.

how long was the road 5 miles!

[kitted_escort]

All the best with it

[turbotoaster]

thanks guys, just gotta cut the inlets off it now so i can back door it

[scoooby slayer]

any updates ?

[CossieRich]

Hope you havent given up. Great thread this

[MadRod]

Originally Posted by CossieRich

Hope you havent given up. Great thread this

No !!
Still work in progress im following it on another Forum, lets say a 'need more cash break' at the mo. I hope this lad does this .

[CossieRich]

Rod,

Is the thread on another forum the same as this one or more detialed? If so stick the link up mate

[warrenpenalver]

Ive told lee he needs to be more careful fitting parts and doing stuff for his attempt at 200mph than he was with the oil change a few weeks back:


we dont want any "oh shit" moments at 150mph +

[turbotoaster]

hi guys, sorry there hasnt been an update on this, i ordered my radiator yesterday to that will come on monday, they are normally £140 but managed to get one for £99 new so ill put pics up when i get that

also got a quick shift coming which might be here saturday, b&m replica but only costs £30 new

the next big update after those pics i would imagine will be the intercooler modded with the rad bolted to it, im expecting that will be next month though as ill need some pennies to pay for someone to customise it

[turbotoaster]

Little update, my quickshift arrived today, yes it wont have any benefits for top speed but just fancied one.



simple design



Its actually a B&M replica but its actually better than the real thing because the real ones are made out of aluminum, yes thats great for weight but there is a flaw in that the material isnt strong enough in my opinion, infact i snapped one in half at the drag strip so i know it isnt.

The replicas are made all steel so while they are heavier, they are also stronger.

ok time to install!!

stock


remove gearknob, just unscrews


remove covering


remove rubber sound deadening/wind resistance thingy


remove stick and bolts hold in, hit with hammer to break seal, becareful of gear oil going everywhere


pull plastic boot off original and fit to new quick shift


bolt new quickshift down with supplied washers and bolts


replace rubber covers, replace big plastic cover, reconnect switches, good as new


Well first impressions, my god!! Its so short and feels like im using a completely different box, gonna take some practice on the gear changes as it is very notchy, reminds me of a HKS dog box in a GTR that i once drove, it should settle down as i break it in but feels pretty mad at the moment!

Also taken all the slack out of the gear change so theres no movement at all

Will hopefully have another update on monday

[turbotoaster]

radiator arrived today so i did some marking up to see if my theory matched real life

Another ebay purchase


No damage


thickness of end tanks


thickness of core


Marking up placement


Pretty tight!!


Checking for leaks



One the issues with running an intercooler of 120mm thickness is that you struggle to cool the water temps due to the restriction of air getting to the radiator.

By only covering half the radiator with the rad you gain the benefit of a thick intercooler and alot of air passing though the rad, thats my theory behind why this should work so fingers crossed.

Just need to get my intercooler over the local aluminum welding place to cut it to my specs

[Autoflock Motorsport]

As an idea, what about putting the rad under the boot doubling as a diffusser? On top speed runs it would get more than enough air through it and free up a lot of space in the bay.
Just an idea

[turbotoaster]

thats an awful lot of pipework wouldnt you think.

how would that exactly work because you risk bashing it on a bump and racking it.

Also if it was positioned like a diffuser(rear end higher than front end) you would need to cut the rear bumper apart to be able to have the rad high enough that it wouldnt scrape on the ground.

I might be visuallising it completely wrong, if you could find me a pic of an example or draw me a little pic on paint or something i can get my head around it

[Autoflock Motorsport]

Originally Posted by turbotoaster

thats an awful lot of pipework wouldnt you think.

how would that exactly work because you risk bashing it on a bump and racking it.

Also if it was positioned like a diffuser(rear end higher than front end) you would need to cut the rear bumper apart to be able to have the rad high enough that it wouldnt scrape on the ground.

I might be visuallising it completely wrong, if you could find me a pic of an example or draw me a little pic on paint or something i can get my head around it

This exactly what I thought,

I can get a pic but will have to be very careful what I include in it as the car itself is competing in a few weeks and the new mods are extremely sensitive. I asked eaxactly the same question to the designers but they said it works and the positioning/angling of the rad means its out of the way of debris. I will be dropping the parts im doing off next week so I will take a good sneaky pic of the rad and its positioning. This is a full on track/race car so I dont know how it would fair on the road, but I bet this car frequently hits 180mph

[turbotoaster]

thanks very much, ill be interesting to see what it looks like, even if its just a quick drawing and there ideas about why they would go for this setup

Since the car will run 60psi base pressure of fuel and the engine will need 6000cc/min of fuel at peak power i worked out id need 360 litres per hour worth of pumping power.

now pumps that you see the specs for arnt rated for that certain fuel pressure.

A 305LPH flows 230LPH at 60psi so im gonna run 2 pumps to give 460LPH

These are gonna be both intank strapped together

ill be using a Y piece to connect the to pumps together inside the tank....2x -6 to a -8 Y piece

Then -8 fuel line running to a -8 fuel filter, then -8 fuel line to a Y piece with 2x -6 to split to the 2 fuel rails.

the primary rail will be running the original 550cc injectors(obviously at 60psi fuel pressure they will be higher, maybe 600cc)

the secondary rail will be running ID 2200cc injectors(at 60psi will be 2500cc)

the reverse will be the same as above as a Y piece will connect them back up together before heading to the FPR, that line will be -8

Through the FPR and a -8 return line back the tank.


I know that might not be written very well but this is my first go at setting up a fuel system and im not really sure the easiest way to explain it so i have included a picture.




If someone can give me some pointers and see if theres anything i have done wrong i would really appreciate it.


For refence the reason the the rails connect back together with a Y piece before going to the FPR is because ill be using the stock FPR and injectors for a while until i buy my rail/injectors/FPR at a later date, at that time ill send each injector rail outlet into the 2 inlets on the adjustable FPR

thanks

[turbotoaster]

Got bored today so decided to put the battery in the boot, it needed doing to make room for my intercooler/rad setup

Sorry for lack of pics going through it all but it was raining hard and didnt want to spend forever outside

removed from engine bay and ran live feed to rear of car



bolted tray down to chassis then built everything else back up, connect live and ran earth wire to a bolt hole near by

[turbotoaster]

Ordered one of these today, should be with me next week.

It bolts onto the throttle body, the reason i went for this is as you see, it steps up in size about an inch along, but luckily it also steps up inside by the same amount, now normally the narrow part is where you bolt your silicone pipe from the intercooler to.

But because of the power im going for i dont want any reduction in piping from the my turbo to my throttle body im going to be cutting the smaller piece off and putting the silicone pipe directly over the larger part as thats 80mm in diameter, just like my intercooler.

[dovboy]

Originally Posted by Autoflock Motorsport

As an idea, what about putting the rad under the boot doubling as a diffusser? On top speed runs it would get more than enough air through it and free up a lot of space in the bay.
Just an idea

like this or lower? to actualy use the air as part of the defuser?
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...26tbs%3Disch:1

[turbotoaster]

i think from what he said is to actually run it under the car, ie where the petrol tank is, to me thats an awful lot of work for not really much gain at all, maybe if it was a racecar, but ive seen plenty of rx7 racecars from over the world and never seen anything like that, most of them go for a V mount setup.

running a rad in the boot would really be to complicated, i would have to find somewhere else to stick a 80ltr fuel tank, plus you would just have the fans sucking hot air into the car which means you would get to hot, the boot isnt big enough to let that sort of air out, plus they really arnt quiet fans when they are on full blast.

http://www.importtuner.com/features/.../photo_02.html

this shows a v mount setup, rad at bottom, intercooler at top.

I may look at this setup if i run out off room in my engine bay, but this setup isnt idea for my purpose

[Shredtheibanez]

good luck matey!

You may have already said but.. when are you looking to do the run? Wouldn't mind seeing it...

all the best! keep it up!

Ryan

[Graceland]

Impressive stuff - Keeping an eye on this one

[turbotoaster]

hopefully later on in the year if my finances pick up, im hoping for october time, but maybe longer if i cant get another job

[turbotoaster]

ok next part of my ebay part special build arrived today

The elbow that bolts onto my throttle body, as previously mentioned the reason im going for this is to maintain my pipework size so that there is no airflow restrictions which in theory will maximise the air entering the inlet manifold, i know the differences are minimal, but as a famous supermarket once said, every little helps!

Got it £79 delivered which was the cheapest around i could find it


looks like this is the company thats paying china for it


have to say, casting internally is pretty poor, so im gonna spend this afternoon with some sand paper and smooth it all out


heres what i mean about there being an internal step, this is the point at which im gonna cut it off, hence losing the narrow part


Checking its the same size as my intercooler...good to go!!


Not sure what to do next, either order my 2 fuel pumps or mod my intercooler so i can fit it with my rad, will have a think about when i next get paid


By the way, loving the tags by the way, keep it up!

[m4tt274]

when i was doing this on my rx7 i poted out the throttle elbow, myn wa s agreddy one but looked more or less the same as urs and on the bench test i was getting the best results with a 120grit internal finish on the inlets and mirror finish on the exhaust outlets. dont know if that is of any help to you.

[turbotoaster]

could you explain that again for me, i understand using a 120grit on the internals or it, but the 'mirror finish on the exhaust outlets' bit im unsure.

do you mean 120 on the inlet and mirror on the outlet of it?

[turbotoaster]

well tonight i have been busy on my ebay elbow.

firstly i cut the smaller diameter off, i could have done it after the lip and it would have been simpler but hindsight is a wonderful thing!

after cutting the end off i used a dremel to enlarge it back out to the correct size, not sure neat but not to bad, stops the restriction in my pipe work by making it 70mm internal diameter instead of 60mm


i then used my grinding bits to take out all the bumps, casting marks and general crappyness, it still looks rough in the pictures but feels silky smooth.


this took me 2hrs to do in total and its not a fun job sitting in the kitchen working on it, got pins and needles in my hand now!

[warrenpenalver]

And here is the man at work:


And this is what happens when you get an itch with dirty fingers :

[turbotoaster]

got myself a decat pipe for my birthday this year, even with the big turbo ill be running a 3inch exhaust on the road as due to running low boost there wont be massive back pressure issues and it keeps the noise down to semi-sensible levels........to say its loud compared to when it had a CAT on it is a bit of an understatement!!
When i started it up i crapped my pants, thought the decat had fell off, my neighbours werent to impressed!

Though its much better from 7-8krpm now as the ports where being heavily restricted by the CAT.

Big difference in weight


new gaskets and bolts which is nice


checked flanges and they are both true and flat


had to jack the decat up so i could get the lower brace back on, but all bolted up!!


video of starting it up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oiKRYFv2I8

[simon170]

Blimey that sounds rough!

[scoooby slayer]

Originally Posted by simon170

Blimey that sounds rough!

thats what i thought but rotorys may sound like that with no silencing i honestly dont know ?

hows the budget mate ? are you still on target ?

[turbotoaster]

the bigger the ports are the more rougher they sound, so with mine going for the biggest street style port i could possibly run you end up with a funky sound.

Sounds like a combination between a v8 and a boat....its because of the massive overlap im running, plus it was running very rich in that video, when i pull some fuel out on idle it smooths out a little but not alot

[foreigneRS]

why bother with all of the smoothing of the elbow when the rubber hose between elbow and i/c will have a step joint at both ends?

[P412KER]

Saw this the other day, looks nice mate. (i work at the dealership at the bottom of the bank)

[RS500]

Awesome project i hope you reach your goal

[turbotoaster]

Originally Posted by foreigneRS

why bother with all of the smoothing of the elbow when the rubber hose between elbow and i/c will have a step joint at both ends?

how you mean? the end piece on the elbow was 70mm, i cut that off to leave the 80mm part so it matches my intercooler which is also 80mm so theres no step down in size, the metal pipes will only have about 5-10mm between them which is for the silicone hose to connect them

Originally Posted by P412KER

Saw this the other day, looks nice mate. (i work at the dealership at the bottom of the bank)

Cool, which dealership are you in, ill have pop down and say hello

Originally Posted by RS500

Awesome project i hope you reach your goal

Thanks very much

[P412KER]

Cool, which dealership are you in, ill have pop down and say hello


Renault mate.

[turbotoaster]

mint, been down there loads of times when i used to have a r5 turbo, used to love how cheap new parts were!

You a sales or service lad?