MK MOTORSPORT

iTrader: (1)

hi beef hows it going ,karl spoke to me about his cross member,i asked how he gained the room and he said he moved the rack ,i asked if he moved the tcas points etc aswell and he said no so i told him you cant moved one with out the other or it will cause bump steer etc ,i dont know what he did but everything is deigned to work together in the same arc and plane ,on a wrc steel crossmember they moved things to get diff in but so it kept correct geometry

thanks mark

M K

iTrader: (9)

It's ok having things that look the part ay, anyone can do that to be honest as
Long as you can weld, it's about keeping the correct angles and geo etc to keep the car handling and working as it should, that's where you pay for knowledge and expertise, like I did with Andrew with my shell and you get with Mark's parts

You can't copy experience and knowledge

M K

iTrader: (9)

Put one of the front wheels on to see how it sat and the front geometry is all over the show and parts like tca's will need modding to allow correct camber etc,

The reason these parts will need modding is due to the fact the wrc upright has moved the hub a lot further out so even with the tca wound in i have camber like an old vw beetle , this is no major problem as the tca just needs 10-20mm milling of the adjuster end and the same off the adjuster thread to bring it in, it may even be less than that but untill it has a full geo set up i won't know, either way it's simple mods to parts i already have so that's fine

Here is the wheel fitted although with no spacer at the moment and even though the wheel sits further out with the wrc hub i will need a hub centric spacer to sit it out in the arch fully









That's on full droop so will be worse once the car is on it's wheels with full weight lol, easy fix so no problem

I also got my large 15.5mm drill bit through the post so i could re drill the front and rear bells to suit the larger group a studs, just need disc's and calipers and brackets now

andy escos

iTrader: (1)

looking real god mate are you running 4x4 brake disc bells or 2 wheel drive brake disc bells
as i thought 4x4,s were flat or are the wrc spec dished ?

M K

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Andy

The wrc uprights run with a dished bell like the 2wd cosworth

M K

iTrader: (9)

Once it does go for it's geo set up if possible Mark @ MK Motorsport will also look into some custom top mounts for me if needed to try to re gain the correct camber that way allowing the widest track possible

MT-Motorsport

iTrader: (3)

Car is looking Awesome marc

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Car looking awsome Mark
Looking forward to your updates

G60rallye

Looking great with some parts bolted to it. Why cant you dial out the camber with the hub to upright bolts?

cossiedevil

Like i said before just stunning mate

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

stunning mate looking very nice

Touring Car Spares

iTrader: (6)

I would be doing that first instead of lopping bits off the Track control arms .
looking great tho .

GINGExR2 T

iTrader: (1)

.



Gonna be one hell of a car when fully built up Marc,


Kepp up the good work




Ginger

wellens7

Marc
You can't tell what your geo will be until your drop the car , iE camber etc . I wouldn't modify any suspension parts until it's on the floor and ballasted up to the correct weight then take measurements , get to your correct chassis to floor height and workout what needs modifying then , toe and camber change so much between droop and ride height .
We always ballast the car to class minimum then have average fuel load ie 50L and the weights in the seats for codriver and driver on top then begin doing geo or even better do it on solids but that a different kettle of fish ; )

M K

iTrader: (9)

Point's noted guys

I know that the geo can not be done until the car is up to full weight etc and i will not be modding anything suspension wise until it goes to be set up geometry wise at the very end, at this point we will modify anything that requires it to get the best set up possible,

I totally forgot that i had a set of camber washers and inserts laser cut to match the ones Andrew welded onto the rear struts, so these will probably get fitted that way there is probably 10mm to play with on the top bolt hole on the uprights so should see some of the camber dialed out that way as stated by "G60Rallye"

I am now on the look out for a 7.5" rear diff, either new or nearly new with the likes of a quaife/gripper/titan lsd cash waiting for the right one, ideally in a 3.6 ratio, i have considered 3.9 but the box i am hoping to sort out is 3.6 and it will do to start with rather than another £600 on changing chains and drop gears


Little progress update today was that i bolted the handbrake, rear internal brake lines and the brake fluid res back in the car, mainly to get the parts out the way off the bench lol, i also fitted the steering wheel back on and connected up the steering knuckle joints

Pics to follow mid week some time

G60rallye

I am sure you will be able to sort the camber with the bolts between the hub and strut. Definatly better than shortening the TCA's.

If you run out of movement on the strut then you could enlarge the hole to get even more movement. It might be that you have to take off the camber washer holders that Andrew welded on for you, and move them inboard more.

M K

iTrader: (9)

The fronts currently do not have any type of camber washer holders fitted to them so i will weld them on at a later date when we know where we are at

Touring Car Spares

iTrader: (6)

I have a brand New Titan 7.5" Diff , freshly built , with a good 3.9 cwp fitted ,lol

thielt1

I expect to see some video posted when this is completed!

M K

iTrader: (9)

Beyond my budget for the rear diff Tony but cheers for making me jealous lol

I am sure there will be my friend but won't be for a while yet unfortunately

M K

iTrader: (9)

New rear diff has been ordered, just sorting out getting the case aqua blasted before it all gets assembled with a new seals/bolts/bearings etc

Decided to go for the gripper 7.5" plated diff, with full race rates/angles, a bit noisy and very clunky under low speeds but the car is no road car so that's not an issue, and for the money i think the gripper is definitely the best option out there and should be more than up to the job

macdoodle

iTrader: (2)

This build is getting better & better top work mate keep up the good work

Twellsie

iTrader: (1)

have you seen the camber bolts you can get for Renault Clio's?

depandant how much you need, they may work.....

M K

iTrader: (9)

I have camber shims so will look into that when the time comes

Small updates as haven't really had a chance to do much lately

Fitted the new ATL fuel level sender to the fuel tank




Also after a lot of faffing around i have decided to use the rear steering arms that Andrew made for the car, there is a few reason that i have decided to use these rather than the proper wrc steering arms i have

First reason is that Andrew used the same box metal type set up on his own race winning focus so there is absolutely no doubt they are up to the job

Here is a pic of Andrews ones on his focus


Here is a few pics of mine fitted back to my fiesta tonight







Wheel sitting in the rear arch (obviously not adjusted properly)


The other reason for using Andrews is that because the wrc rear steering arms were designed to allow use of a 15" gravel wheel they position the rear link bars a lot closer together and this is not how Andrew angled/designed them where the opposite end of the link attaches to the bracket on the car so when using the wrc steering arms the rear rose joints on the link arm nearest the front of the car on each side lock out, even with the highest misalignment rose joints they still lock out and leave no adjustment to lengthen/shorten the ink arms so although Andrews look a bit industrial they are designed to fit my car, my bracket angles and the larger 18" wheels so they are going on, to use the wrc ones will cost me at least another £100 to have new pins etc made and i do not see the point

I just need to have a few more of these alloy rose joint reducer spacers made up as there the exact size for 5/8" rose joints and the box steering arms so hopefully Andrew still has some or i will need to have more made up by kenny



I accidentally sold them on with my old tca's and comp struts not realizing i was gonna need them again as i thought id be using the wrc arms hopefully Andrew can help me out there


I also got a few fittings through from Alex at Torques.co.uk so made up the fuel lines between pumps and filters that are sealed in the box under the rear of the car,

Here is 1 of them along with the new Goodridge AN spanners i bought


I have gone for the teflon braided stuff to try and eliminate the fumes as i hate getting headaches everytime you get in the car

That's all really, nothing major but it is all progress

Thanks
Marc

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

very nice work mate

Richie.

iTrader: (5)

Looking good Marc



Spent a fair bit with Alex myself this last month

Its f##king addictive this braided hose

You had fun putting the fittings on ? ?

fezzajsy

iTrader: (9)

Sticky.

iTrader: (4)

Looking good Marc.

lukefrs

how the quality of the torques fitting compared to earls and goodrige etc???they seem very very well priced compared.
will be needing some stuff soon.

xan_lee

iTrader: (1)

+1

Will need some soon.

Alg1k

iTrader: (2)

Amazing car , will be nice to see some video of it soon ,,,
I have got a load of torques fittings for my new fuel set up and have noticed the internal bore is a bit smaller than the goodrich stuff dont think it will cause a problem though,

M K

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for all the kind comments guys


To be honest Richie i find the Teflon lined stuff and olive type fittings are a real doddle to make up and literally takes minutes, it's the nomex stuff or the normal Aeroquip ones that do my head in lol


I have used them before and they seem good enough, i will pressure test all the hoses i make up before any fuel goes through them so if there is any problems they can be sorted before rather than find fuel pissing all over the engine or in the boot etc as that is a headache


Thanks for the praise on the car mate, as for the bore size i think it's minimal enough to be of no affect as you say

M K

iTrader: (9)

Small update,

In preparation for the building up of the new 7.5" gripper rear diff i have had the casing blasted as it was badly painted in thick Hammerite that had run all over the show and looked a right state so it now looks minty mint, i will most likely paint it properly in a nice silver but no point doing that till the thing is all built up as the casing has to be machined for the gripper diff to fit,

Pics of the casing after blasting and pressure washing








Also if you remember me saying previously the wrc front brake bells i bought to suit the 355x32mm disc's were approx 16mm thick and way to thick to sit on my standard flanges, well Tommy @ FMS chucked them on the lathe for me and machined them down to 9mm thich as per most normal bells, so obviously this took the anodizing off so needed re doing, whilst there i got the rear bells done and the other front bells to use 330mm disc's as i am not 100% sure which will be used yet

All 3 sets of bells in nice new blue




And lastly for this update i got the rear diff cooler through that i won on ebay, it's only a small 7 row cooler but it will help and i have no room due to the fuel tank sump so it had to be a small cooler, the rear diff case i have already tapped for feed, return and bigger breather etc



The Mocal oil pump for the rear diff has been purchased from a member on here and i am waiting for that to arrive anytime now

Thanks
Marc

gus

iTrader: (1)

jesus that diff looks a million times better then it did

fezzajsy

iTrader: (9)

coming along nicely

M K

iTrader: (9)

Small update as nothing major happening right now

I dismantled and old sierra mt75 gearbox i bought for spares as it has the same center diff as the cossie mt75 and i wanted the shaft to use as a proper clutch alignment tool

so after a painstaking few days getting the box apart i now have a proper clutch alignment tool rather than using them silly plastic jobby's




Next up i received a box of goodies from Steve (Wellens7)

He has very kindly sorted me out some new bolts and k-nuts for the rear uprights and a few other things after suggesting i bin off the crappy nylocs i was using before

So here is the old bolts and nylocs


Here is the new bolts fitted with the k-nuts


The k-nuts are self locking as the end of the nut is deformed so they will not rattle loose and come undone and are not affected by heat etc (not that they would get hot where they are)

The other advantage is the weight as they are loads lighter than a normal nyloc and the head size is 14mm compared to the 19mm head on a normal M12 nut, every little helps lol





He also sent me some alloy socket cap heads and alloys washers for the front wings so i can bin off the steel button heads i currently have



And for a bit further down the line when it comes to doing the wiring and securing the fuel lines etc he sent me a couple of bags of cable tie saddles and cable ties along with the rivets to secure the saddles to the shell, and even the correct size drill bit for the rivets,



much better than p-clips as if you want to remove the wiring you only need to cut the cable tie and replace it rather then unbolting a p-clip needing 2 people in some cases, 1 under the car to hold the nut and 1 to undo the bolt which is a pain in the arse

Big thanks to Steve for sorting this little lot out for me



On another front, i am currently waiting on some parts being laser cut and some metal being folded in a brake press as i am re making the rear steering arms as per Andrews items but out of 2.5mm steel rather than 3mm, and im having them fully tig welded up this time rather than mig, they will use M14 k-nuts welded in place for securing the rose joint bolts leaving no risk of them coming undone, more on them parts when the stuff is cut and bent to shape

If anyone is after my old rear steering arms that Andrew made for me then they will be for sale in the next week or so, give me a shout for a price

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Looking good

Im sure you'll shed a few pounds cutting off all the unused thread of the ends of your bolts
Might get a few more tenths out of the weight saving

dingla rs

iTrader: (2)

what box is going in then mk ?

M K

iTrader: (9)

Lol I know, could not get the fine pitch M12 bolts in 80mm only 90mm so will live with that as they were nearly £5 each, but have since had some ordered specially so will not have any over length from now on.


It's probably gonna be a big tooth box from "GEARS" as it's about £1600 so is within reach, I'd like a bara but would need to save for another 8 months and want the car done next year sometime, so a bara will be a nice upgrade down the line when the car is finished and money allows, hopefully the Gears box will hold up if I do get it

NEIL A

iTrader: (6)

Mark talk to GEARS and see if they will do you a deal , Im sure they did John(Imsy) a good price for his fiesta box as he tested it on track. You car is a high profile build and will end up on a mag cover and get them good coverage.