Psycho Warren

iTrader: (5)

Looking good!

You could always paint the visible rivet heads black to blend in a bit.

Is your vent cover removable?? If so, id recommend fitting some very fine mesh in the vent to filter off larger particles as the last thing you want is touching the grass or going through the kitty litter (or more likely someone in front doing the same) meaning your car fills with a cloud a dirt or dust while youre still driving at speed!!! Also catches insects and other thrown up debris.

You then just clean the mesh every now and then.

Also dont forget the drain pipe. With a fine mesh you should still be able to drive with the vents open if hot and humid as the mesh will damp down the spray.

You could be really anal and use some foam behind the mesh to catch everything.

stu21t

if you do use mesh i would say get a kitchen sieve and use that as its very fine gauze. and for foam, cut up a cheap ebay air filter lol.


when do you think you will finish the car so i can buy it off you? lol

zetaboostboy522bhp

fantastic mark , i know i keep saying it but this is my favourite build on here without doubt
keep up the good work

cheers paul

Dimma4x4

Can't put in to words how good this project it MIGHTY IMPRESSED to say the least!!!!!

Gadget

Second to None.

massivewangers

iTrader: (1)

Stunning, glad you've decided to keep the dash too!

Red16

Absolutely stunning car, I admire the attention to detail and your patience!

M K

iTrader: (9)

Thanks guys

No idea on the finish date, but it won't be for sale anytime soon I'm afraid

Want some proper use out of this

JonnyBravo

Looking great Marc. Agree with everything everyone has said, attention to detail is immense!

As for the rivets I think you can get black headed ones which would be a bit kinder on the eye.

TimC

iTrader: (1)

Marc with the tank being ali and not a bag tank in an ali shell, how safe is it being where it is should you ever go backwards into a tyre wall or get rear ended, especially without being on the outside of the roll cage?

OldDan

Probably as safe as any other car on the road nowadays!

TimC

iTrader: (1)

Sarcasm or being serious Dan?

Big Will_

Tim - think about what standard fuel tanks are made of!

JonnyBravo

I think the point Tim is getting at is it's IN the cabin unlike any road car I know which has them under the car.

Mine is in the car then incased in a housing, wether I'd class it as a firewall or not is another matter but the tank itself is about 12 inches into the car so it would be a fair whack to crush that area.

Either way it's a good point raised, safety has to be the number one priority when building such a highly specced car.

TimC

iTrader: (1)

Will as James wrote above its the material used as well as the positioning. God forbid should Marc have a decent sized rear shunt, what is to say that the tank wont split with fuel being released inside the car.
If it was a bag tank it would simply adjust its shape and not split, if it was kept aluminium but moved to be inside the confines of the cage it is less likely to get damaged, or if the same location is to be kept, lower it so the tank is not in the cockpit, it would be a much safer setup.

markk

iTrader: (2)

I can see what is being said above, and I look at all these people building track cars and buying sparkly alloy tanks at silly money, then have no contigency plan for accidents.
In the world of rallying, if you dont use a bag tank, then the rules stiplulate your fuel cell/tank must be a tank within a tank, so have some sort of cover round it to prevent fuel spillage into the car in the event of a rupture of the tank, some way of directing the fuel out of the car, hence we have vent valves/rollover valves/drains to get the fuel outside the vehicle.

Alloy tanks are the worst for splitting under body flex let alone an accident, I have had this happen to me.

worth noting thats all.

nice car Marc - i bet the cost starts with a 5 by now lol

M K

iTrader: (9)

I think the same as far as where the tank is positioned, not ideal but it will be firewalled, the cost of a custom bag tank which will be around the 3k mark is not an
Option right now so i am happy having the tank where it is with a fire wall,

The worse thing for rupturing is the aeroquip fittings if stressed during an impact

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

when my 3dr got rear ended, the rear panel crushed the pump between it and the tank, and split the hose... will and i shut the car off and got the fuck out sharpish lol...

not ideal, but i wasnt planning on being rear ended

if i were to build a car again, id try and have the tank outside the car, or use a bag tank but they can be mega money.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Finally sorted another small lathe as I can't stand not having one as there so handy,

Had the prob of clearance with the wrc cam sensor set up so as advised by coley and whizzisat and a few others I sourced a galaxy sensor which is a more compact 90 degree angle

So rather than sell the wrc sensor bracket I sleeved it to suit the smaller dia galaxy sensor

So to start with



Then cut a bit of alloy bar


Drill the center hole out a bit, had to finish by boring as I did not have the correct size drill bit,


After boring to suit sensor and slightly larger the other end for the oring seal, and added a small chamfer


Like a glove




I made the sleeve a real tight fit on purpose and planned to heat the original housing and push in the sleeve, so I left the heat gun on it for 20 minutes and when I went back to it the anodising had come off and it had turned gold!

No idea why as I heated the uprights to 100 degrees and the anodising was fine and by the same firm so I can only assume it was a different alloy but never mind, I will have it done again when I get some more bits done

Anyway, job done






Cam cover can be fitted and removed now but the actual sensor needs to be fitted after cam cover but the sensor housing can stay in so that's perfect,

The one thing you will notice is the securing hole which is for an 8mm bolt overlaps the original threaded hole to suit the bigger sensor so il show you what I done to get round that later in the week




Also got another heel plate as I wanted a bit more under my feet
On the drivers plate

Not bolted in yet but makes the difference I was after




Just need powder coating and some grip tape now

Thanks
Marc

matman

Marc where did you get your heel plate from please.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Heel plate from from a company called whizzbang fabrication and cost about Ł11

matman

great, cheers Mark

fezzajsy

iTrader: (9)

Mister G

Stunning project, a real credit to you!

J1mbo

iTrader: (1)

That sensor is just what I need, what year galaxy is it out of fella? Or part number? Cheers!

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Got mine out a 2.3 cc 2001 model iirc

T3ORA

iTrader: (1)

wot a amazing build

any more updates

James_RScos

Amazing..................!

One hell of a project M K, really coming together well

Quick question, where did you get the fittings that hold your front bumper on? i like!

James

M K

iTrader: (9)

Thanks guys

The bumper fittings were turned on the lathe mate

Thanks
Marc

James_RScos

Cheers pal,

I will own a Lathe! haha one day

James

natty99

sent you a PM...just wondering where you picked up those front AP calipers?

frsjon

awesome car mark and i cant wait to see it in the flesh i have the tilton 600 series pedals in mine and had a false floor made incorparating a raised area from the pedals to the seat..it may be personal preferance but i found i needed the 'heel' area tight to the pedals other wise every time i pushed a pedal id get my foot stuck between the heel area and the pedals lol

M K

iTrader: (9)

I will have a look where seems good to position before i bolt the extra heel plate onto the false floor

M K

iTrader: (9)

Haven't had time for the car or money really over the last month or so due to other things like stag doo's to Puerto Banus and house and dog sitting lol but i finally had a couple of days to get a few things done, only small things but needed doing all the same

I made my self some wrc/grpa style wheel stud sleeves for strengthening the studs when i had my old lathe but it drilled slightly off center so when fitted the sleeves sat offset on the studs, causing the disc bell holes to need drilling out and the wheels to be fiddly to get on so i was never happy. Well i bought another small lathe as i found i could no longer be without one when doing a build like this or any for that matter, and made myself a new set,

Lathe drilled almost arrow straight, about as good as your get with one of these chinese lathes anyway

So a new set was ready



You can see above they line up nicely when screwed onto these old studs which shows they are drilled as good as dead center,

Then i got them plated, meant to be yellow zinc but he done them silver but looks fine to me,










Another thing i got done was the spacers for the top of the bilstein inserts that come through the top mount, needed some counterbored items to clear the shoulder and pull the insert fully up into the mount so knocked these up and had them plated as well










Got the last bit of power steering hose i needed through from earls, i know the high pressure hose is not needed on the return but being fussy i wanted it to match, so fitted the power steering cooler, not in direct full airflow but just having the cooler fitted will be enough regardless, so thats another thing done and off the list












Small job but another one that needed doing was fitting foam to the base of fuel tank and to the straps, don't want any annoying rattles that can be avoided, i also put some in the battery recess and the battery strap but no pics of that








Next up a bit more machining work, as the cars track was widened about 50mm - 60mm i needed to space the rear driveshafts out at the diff flanges so went about getting some custom spacers sorted out of some aircraft spec alloy, due to the pattern i could not do this all myself so i have to make the initial ring then get someone else to mill the pattern i gave them then once that was done i finished them off by turning the inside and outside step so the the driveshaft cv sits into the spacer and the spacer into the flange just like standard, then just get them anodised in my red as per everything else,

I also bought longer 12.9 high tensile cap heads to suit the now widened joints





Pattern which clears all ball bearing ways etc, copied from the diff flanges





Fits snug into the diff flange due to the turned down step i put on the end



Same with the cv side but this time i machined an internal step so the cv fits snug inside the spacer



Test fit



Then anodised and fitted for good, used a load of cv grease though to pack the spacer full with or due to the big gap all the cv would most likely end up in the spacer and none in the joint so packed it to be safe




Can also see the new smaller rear drop links i made and had anodised as my last ones were too long and fouled the driveshaft once fitted








Whilst working on the rear end i fitted the rear diff cooler, got all the fittings i needed from torques as usual apart from one banjo i had to get from think auto as a normal fitting fouled on the boot floor when trying to fit into the top of the diff for the return, got to fit that this week some time so you may notice the un fitted hose in the pics lol







Just need to get a fluid switch to fit into the diff cover where the fitting come out at the bottom so that when the oil reached 87 degrees it turns the pump on and turns off again if it drops to 65 degress, but there is a few weeks wait for that so will be done when it turns up.


And the very last thing i did and have been meaning to do for a while was this



Any ideas what this is the start of???????????????????????????

JonnyBravo

This build just gets more epic with every update Marc, I thought your fezzy was impressive but this is in another league.

Not a clue what the plate is going to be though

LIMITLESS

An epic build Marc

COCHYN

Awesome! Any developments on the engine yet Marc?

gus

iTrader: (1)

cup holder?

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

are the new diff flange bolts a tad too long or do they clear the diff marc? looks bloody close from here!!

truly is an amazing build mate

is the template a diff guard or something lol?

M K

iTrader: (9)

Thanks mate

Appreciate your comment mate

Thanks Alan, all you guys praises gives me the motivational boost needed with these projects


No, but good idea lol



They are very close but they clear fine, I may turn them down a few mm to be safe though

Template is not for diff guard, that will be next