ulash

this is my dream dream car and dream project... if this one is mine i dont talk to anyone or i dont need any thing ... family girlfriend best friend hahah.... jast my car and me big love.... if this is mine i am sure i will not eat something for 1 week .... great job mate .....

M K

iTrader: (9)

Probably doesn't look much different but bend re made with plenty of clearance now

M K

iTrader: (9)

Ulash - glad you like it

Another job off the list

nthorpey

Is that the Clarke air bleeder ? any good is this the one that also does oil drain without the need for the sump plug removal?

Car's looking awesome

markk

iTrader: (2)

ATE fluid 😉

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Looking good mate it won't be long befor you turn the key

M K

iTrader: (9)

Cheers,

The vacuum kit is the "Gunson" one, it does have another pipe to vac stuff out so suppose you could you it for oil, I just use it to drain lower res pots

Indeed, never used before but told its good stuff and cheap enough


It starts etc now mate, and is insured but no mot or geo set up yet but soon enough il have it done

smiley

I bet you cant wait to get out in this!

M K

iTrader: (9)

It's been a long time coming

Gadget

Marc, have you got a link to the bleeder? I'm after one soon, the same sort.
Ta

nthorpey

Gary, This is the Clarke one I was on about although looks to be a copy of the Gunson one?
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...C=RV-040810637


Gunson one here:

http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=3448

M K

iTrader: (9)

Here you go Gary

Best price I found

http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/autog...-brake-bleeder

Machinemart 1 does not come with the refill bottle which is definitely needed to make life a lot easier

M K

iTrader: (9)

Good new and bad news today

Good news is I dropped the car back on its wheels and started it and backed it out the garage to remove the doors so it's easier to work on the inside when in the garage, it selected gears fine and actually moved under its own steam

Bad news is that after trying to start it on the second go to put it back in the garage all I get is a metal on metal noise with the starter spinning full whack !

So I really really hope it's the starter as it's 1 of the newer high torque style ones but I don't know anyone who had actually used 1 to prove they all work ok with proper gear contact to flywheel etc, just assumed as I bought it for a 4x4 it was a direct replacement

I will take it out after dinner to inspect but I bloody hope the flywheel ain't lost teeth or damaged!!!

frsjon

hope its a easy fix marc

M K

iTrader: (9)

Well I pulled the new starter out which has started the engine probably 10 times in total!

It seems it's only engaged on the flywheel partially and has slightly chewed the flywheel teeth but thankfully I have put an old second hand 4x4 ford starter in and it's perfect every time


So either the starter is not a proper fit as far as gear throw out or mounting depth etc goes or the unit was a bad one and has failed prematurely???

I have emailed the person I got it from as I think the money should be refunded for it, not very happy about it more so due to the damage to flywheel teeth!

This is the version,





Does anybody run this style on there 4x4 cosworth?

Thanks
Marc

M K

iTrader: (9)

With the old starter in it was time to set the clutch pedal stop so as I was on my own I had to improvise lol



On my stop due to the amount of pedal movement the stop bolt did not meet the stop point on the pedal box so I had to make this extra block



So stop was set and works perfect



Cut it down to suit and fitted nylon to with side

Then tested it out by moving it outside to bleed the coolant system

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CHIC...sjwrv.mp4.html

All bled and working great, 1 fan cuts in and drops straight back down and cuts out again so should be fine on track with the aid of both fans

IainRS1700T

Mark is that a Powerlite starter motor?
It looks like one I originally had for my 351w.. Mine was utter crap. Despite the 'correct' fitment for the car, it was nowhere near man enough to start a 5.8 V8, and to top it off I had to send it back to them for a refurb because (their assessment) it had corroded inside due to the car being in the workshop.. It didn't work much better when it came back either so I went elsewhere and got something that worked..
Iain

M K

iTrader: (9)

Hi Iain

Im not sure mate,

Ive been told other people are using the same 1 with no problems so im not saying it is the starters design etc that's crap or at fault, maybe i just have a faulty unit as when i put power too it it doesn't want to throw out all the time? only some times which seems to be why it has barely caught the flywheel teeth and damaged them or maybe my small varley red top hasnt got enough grunt but it powers the car fine so can't see that being the issue,

I have spoken to the person who supplied it to me and as i don't want to risk more damage to the flywheel they have agreed to take it back and refund it for me so i can buy a new original item so i cant complain with that

massivewangers

iTrader: (1)

Probably the best car on here at the moment, beautiful job marc :thumbsup:

M K

iTrader: (9)

Thanks mate

M K

iTrader: (9)

Been on to a problem with the steering the last few days and have pinned it down to some sloppy uj's



They only have very very slight play but at the wheel it is obviously magnified and is not acceptable for me

So easy fix with new uj's................ OH NO

1 uj is easy fix as it is a standard 3/4" x 48 spline, very common and easy to get. the other 1 is a royal pain and i can not get 1 anywhere, it is a 3/4" x 48 spline 1 end and a 17.4mm x 40 spline the other

The 17.4mm x 40 spline is the size of the cosworth rack spline



So seeing as i can only get the joint rebuilt and not new and i think the joint is a bit too battered to get rebuilt, i have decided to mod the steering rack to step it up to 3/4" x 48 spline so joints are easy to get hold of and replace when needed.

This does mean modding the rack so a standard rack spline wont fit but i plan on modding a spare also so i always have 1 to hand to get rebuilt if required

Any way, never stripped a rack but it is only nuts/and seals so shouldn't be too bad,

Got the seals out, cap off and pinion shaft out



This is the bit i will mod


This is the size difference in standard ford spline and common 3/4 x 48 spline size




So i cut up a 48 spline bar i had a machined the end off the original ford piece so i could weld 1 onto the other


Just resting on the end


Ready to weld


And welded, a bit rushed as i dipped the tungsten lol but still fine


I cant plug weld it as it will get in way of the splines so tomorrow i will drill and pin it as well with an interference fit pin to be safe


So now i just have to ordered 2 new heavy duty 3/4 x 48 spline uj's and the steering should be good as new

Thanks
Marc

smiley

Talented man you should make and sell these id buy 1

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

I'v got the same one on my focos and I had to put a washer under the one side to tip it to make the gear line up and apart from that it works 100% my mate all so has one on his car but just bolted on as it should and that all so works 100%

Thanks
Marc[/QUOTE]

M K

iTrader: (9)

Yeah think maybe mine was just faulty, sounds like it stripped the gear as when it checked it on a battery it threw out fine but did not spin!

Gone back to standard just to be safe, Jay is gonna sort me a refund this week hopefully so i can get a new standard item

M K

iTrader: (9)

Steering rack limiters made up tonight to stop rubbing on full lock, yes I lose more of a turning circle but it's not an around town car etc so should be fine

Where the spacers will fit


Rack on full lock without


Full lock with


Fitted




Made them from a machining plastic material so it wouldn't damage the rack

Ready to boot up and put back in the car and await the new steering joints

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

I had to do this to my focos as it allso was rubbing on full lock and to be onist my car has done 2000 miles on the road and must admit I don't notis the steering lock until I'm in a car park then it's a pane in the ass

M K

iTrader: (9)

I remembered you doing them and tried to find the part in your build thread to see what size you made yours but gave up looking after an hour or 2 of reading lol but reminded me what a great build yours has been

Also someone else pointed out to me the rack limiters also prolong the life of the front cv joints as they don't like full lock

M K

iTrader: (9)

Small update

Thought I'd have a look at making the washer fluid tank,

Want to have a decent size tank and keep it low down and tucked away so decided to make 1 to fit here



Had some ally sheet
Laying around so started to make something up, doesn't look all that now but think it will look a lot better once it's finished,

zetaboostboy522bhp

hi mark great work , getting very close now iam really looking forward to seeing it go
are you going to national day at donington this year?
also ive got a question about the front drive shafts , when mk sleeved your front drive flanges did he also machine the splined part fitted on the end of the drive shaft as when i fit mine together the step part that fits into the original upright is right on the edge of the wrc bearing where on the original bearing it sits on the full face of the bearing .
if so can you send me a pic or any info would be great

cheers paul

M K

iTrader: (9)

Hi Paul


I remember having some fit issues with them and ended up sending the driveshaft ends and the flanges and uprights back to Mark to be sorted but not sure what the reason was? I think it was so he could counter bore the flanges as there was not enough thread coming through the flange to do the hub nuts up properly


I have these photo's if they help at all but not 100% sure what bit you mean


















I don't seem to have any pics of the driveshaft ends out of the flanges but could remove 1 next week at some point if you are in no rush?


Thanks
Marc

Caddyshack

Marc, great pics as always.

How did you pick the spring rates for the suspension...the reason I ask is that my 205 has spam "hot rod" coilovers that were made up in the 90s to the customer spec, I hope DJM motorsports specked them but this could be wrong, I wanted to get some trick shox etc but wasn't really sure where to Start. I will probably do them when I upgrade to the 6 degree beam next year. Your shox look pretty clever.

xr-stu

Some build thread this is Marc! I can remember when you bought the thing home, can't believe it was so long ago! I've followed in drubs and drabs as Much as I've been around on here, I've just caught up on a fair bit but my eyes are fucked and I can't focus anymore

I've probably missed a lot so sorry if it's been discussed already but have you got a target weight for it yet? Has the engine been ran in and setup/dyno'd yet?

I'm guessing you're hoping to have it 'finished' for next summer? As much as a build like this ever is anyway!

Good work mate!

zetaboostboy522bhp

hi marc thats the exact same problem iam having not enough thread and also when you push the drive shaft into the upright it should sit on the face of the bearing but because the wrc bearing are bigger it sits right on the edge of the bearing face which to me doesnt seem right and the bit iam worried about.
if you could take it off and take a picture and a measurement that would be brilliant , iam in no rush mate as ive been meaning to ask you for a while lol.
i asked mk but he couldnt remember what he did , i would say that he machined the collar down on the drive shaft so it sits inside the wrc bearing that way it would also give you extra length on the thread for the nut

cheers paul

M K

iTrader: (9)

XR-STU


Hi mate, long time no speak


Not sure on the weight but it will not be light due to the extent of the cage although we used T45 for the entire thing, also I am still running all steel doors/tailgate/bonnet but im not fussed on weight to start but its something id look at later on to make the car better etc, a next evolution shall we say


As for the engine, yes it has been dyno'd about 2 years ago nearly


Here's a vid






Engine made around 550bhp


Hoping to have it on the road properly for around April time, just need to save a bit more cash for new set of tyres, mot, tax and geometry set up

M K

iTrader: (9)

Do you need pics/info on the front shafts the rear or both mate?

zetaboostboy522bhp

hi marc just the front please mate as iam running group a / wrc drive flanges on the rear mated to 2wd drive shafts so should be ok .

cheers paul

M K

iTrader: (9)

ok mate

M K

iTrader: (9)

Nearly finished the custom washer tank for the drivers side inner wing

All tacked up






Fully welded









Just the cap to wait for and weld on



Really happy with my welding on this 1

M K

iTrader: (9)

New heavy duty steering uj's and splined bar turned up today so I can replace the knackered parts

TPM961

b e a uuuutifulllllll !