Puma Cosworth restoration/bodge job fix!

[warrenpenalver]

erm cross between FRP and escort cosworth,doesnt turn in quite as sharp as an FRP but when an FRP would start to have the front end wash wide a lot, this will push itself round the corner from the rear with a bit of 4 wheel slide action followed by power oversteer if youve put too much throttle on!!!

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[warrenpenalver]

Ive now aquired a new loom so i can add some more features as well as fit some new fuel pump wiring.

First of all i want to aquire the newer 3 button remote alarm unit so i can upgrade from mine.

The joys of ford and modular construction means the alarm module is simply clipped onto the fuse box so can be unclipped for removal:

as with many modules, ford outsourced this one to siemens:

At least youd like to think it was well made.
removed the 4 screws to have a look inside to find what looks like a typical modern PCB which appears in good nick with no burns on, so should be up to the job for a while yet!!


Now i just have to rewire my old alarm stuff to fit in with new module!!!

[warrenpenalver]

took the car down turbosystems to get it checked out.

Took ages of fighting with the ECU to remove it from the car because pumaspeed/bodge used tons of mastic glue and literally glued the ECU to the glovebox

Eventually had a look inside and plug it in to work out whats what. Seems i am running a very early collins copy of a pectel board with a Terry Drury rally car map!!! the maps meant for a restricted 300bhp car!!! In theory theres nothing wrong with the chip if it was on a rally car with restrictor......... obviously my car needs to be sensible to drive on the road etc. Also being an early collins board theres no easy way of telling if the version i have had software which corrected some faults on the first few versions of copy pectel board they made!!

Also welded a lamda boss onto the downpipe so he could check out the AFR and see whats really going on.

Then moved to lowering the boost which was going off the boost guage scale (so well above 30psi!!!!) to a more safe 20 ish psi!!! the hole in the vacuum pipe has been temporarily fixed till i can get a bit of new pipe.

Limiting the boost until i can get it fully mapped and some proper boost control obviously slows it down but its better than me killing turbo or engine or gearbox!!!

While trying to find somewhere new for my ECU to go, I have found 2 more relays that are not puma but from the escort:


So now ive got 4 relays to do with the engine.

Also bought a nice new shiney fuel pump so i can sort that out when i fit a new fuel pump wiring system.

[clarke5700]

nice work mate its getting there

[yappstar]

This car is great!!!

Didnt know Stevie wonder was a welder though?!! Does he do it part time? Is he dear?

[warrenpenalver]

the welding is gas tight though

One little mod today. I finished off my outside temp sensor mod fitting a sensor under the front to meet with the wiring id prepositioned.

So now i push the button on clock and can see the temp as well as it having 2 stage warning for black ice conditions

[hai07222]

I like the clock/air temp sensor, good work

[saph cos rob]

i really like mate that is one fat ass puma!!

[- Sim -]

hey man

proper work, sorting out pre owners messes or things, is well known to me.

The loom used may as well be a sierra 4x4 loom, as on my Escort (small turbo reconverted to W/m technics) i have the same relays and this is defo a sierra loom used.

maybe have a look at my projects thread, there is a bit talked about the loom.

and keep going with your great work!!

[warrenpenalver]

Ive already got the puma bits of loom to remove anyway On my puma EECV loom the engine loom has been removed which is only a small portion of the interaction between the EECV ecu and the engine bay. The basic engine sensor plugs are on the main loom so ive had to bag them up out the way until i can cut it out of the loom behind the dash.

I want to keep the EECV ecu as it runs the PATS immobilisor which operates on several circuits inc starting etc and the power supplys to the P8 engine loom are supplied from these protected circuits which suits me fine as it keeps the original immobilisor, so a thief would have to rip out the entire engine loom and rewire it to even get power to the ECU, then rewire fuel pump and starting system So basically theyd have to tow it or nick the keys, and thats the way i prefer to keep it.

Ive just been looking at my fuel pump arrangements and can work out a clamping arrangment easily enough as the custom tank all ready has half the pump cradle, pumaspeed just didnt bother making the clamp bottom side of it so i shall have to sort that.

That then brought me to looking at the fuel pipes.......
Obviously im fitting new pipe clamps and a new bit of fuel pipe from tank to pump feed... but looking at the pump inlet on my car:

and the inlet on the 044:


I presume this is where a Stu@MSD adaptor ive yet to buy fits in??

Is there any reason why i cant use a aeroquip threaded connector and a bit of decent braided fuel line hence doing away with clips that can corrode and easily perishable and weak rubber fuel hose????

Same at the other end on the outlet on my pump:

and the 044:

Is there an adaptor i need on the end of the 044 outlet or can i remove that outer screw thread bit (circled in red) and screw the adaptor on my fuel line direct into the pump??? (ie the bronze adaptor bit, not direct into the alloy thread of the pump ).

[- Sim -]

at least you can use aeroquip and braided hoses.
Would do the same.

I don t know the adaptor sizes, but for size of fuel line, depends on the power u want to run.

[warrenpenalver]

im only looking to keep about 330-350 ish bhp once its all remapped as im on a budget at the moment with shit income so flash stuff has to wait, BUT i will with something relatively cheap, like a fuel pump, spend a bit more "overengineering" something so that in the future i wont need to touch it unless i go power crazy and need 2 pumps, so something like a decent bit of hose and some aeroquip is pretty much fit and forget and wont need replacing in the future.

[ewanm3]

hi mate i see the car has the standard cosworth brake system on it can you tell me how this has been fitted as i am having some trouble with mine on my fiesta cosworth thanks

[SillyFezzaMk1]

How are you sorting the clutch cable Warren? You're going to have trouble routing any kind of cable looking at things. You thought about going hydraulic? meant to make them super nice to drive....esp with paddle clutches etc..

On a side note, your x-member is due on the powdercoat belt monday so will be in touch next week sometime to sort about meeting up.

Cheers
Dan

[wes]

If you want to aeroquip the fuel lines you can do it 2 ways:

Buy yourself a banjo to -6 jic adapter for the end of your 044 pump and run -6 hose, for the power you have specified above. You need to keep the item you have circled on there, it's a non return valve (keeps fuel in the lines so the engine starts straight away) you'll see when you take the old pump off its exactley the same as std

Or you can bin it off and use an inline flap (non return) valve with -6 jic ends, so an M12 x 1.5 to -6 jic adapter goes in the fuel pump, then -6jic hose and fittings to flap valve, the -6 hose and fittings to fuel rail.

Also the inlet to the fuel pump is M18 x 1.5.

[purplemonster]

im running my puma with AP paddle and hydraulics ,and its lovely to drive

[warrenpenalver]

Originally Posted by SillyFezzaMk1

How are you sorting the clutch cable Warren?

The way it is at the moment is as sorted as it can be without going hydraulic and its not too bad. Its about half as heavy as it was when i got the car!! Hydraulic is the long term plan but sorting the engine management is a higher priority!! Id rather have a heavy clutch (and man up a bit ) than melt my engine but have smooth clutch!!! Im not earning Ł44k any more so i cant afford to fix most of it in a month or two other wise it would have been done by now.

Originally Posted by wes

If you want to aeroquip the fuel lines you can do it 2 ways:

Buy yourself a banjo to -6 jic adapter for the end of your 044 pump and run -6 hose, for the power you have specified above. You need to keep the item you have circled on there, it's a non return valve (keeps fuel in the lines so the engine starts straight away) you'll see when you take the old pump off its exactley the same as std

Or you can bin it off and use an inline flap (non return) valve with -6 jic ends, so an M12 x 1.5 to -6 jic adapter goes in the fuel pump, then -6jic hose and fittings to flap valve, the -6 hose and fittings to fuel rail.

Also the inlet to the fuel pump is M18 x 1.5.

I already have braided hoses from fuel line all the way back to the pump.... its just the builder couldnt be arsed to do it properly and used normal connectors at the pump end and didnt bother using a small bit of proper hose from tank to inlet

So the banjo on my original pump outlet just unbolts and fits straight on top of the non return valve on the new pump??? I just cant quite visualise that with the bit of the non return valve poking out??

Might explain why my car takes a few seconds of cranking as well if the non return valve is absent as well as the mapping!!

[graham c]

my hydrolic clutch did not cost that much dont go and buy the kit!

[wes]

Originally Posted by warrenpenalver

I already have braided hoses from fuel line all the way back to the pump.... its just the builder couldnt be arsed to do it properly and used normal connectors at the pump end and didnt bother using a small bit of proper hose from tank to inlet

So the banjo on my original pump outlet just unbolts and fits straight on top of the non return valve on the new pump??? I just cant quite visualise that with the bit of the non return valve poking out??

Might explain why my car takes a few seconds of cranking as well if the non return valve is absent as well as the mapping!!

When you take the cap nut off of the original pump (far left in your pic of the std pump) and then slide the banjo off you'll see it looks exatcley like the 044 looks in your picture, the 044 pump has a shorter outlet than the standard pump so they fit them with a extension piece (to the right of your circle). It'll all make sense once you take the old pump off

[warrenpenalver]

Well decided to have a mess with the wiring. Started making my fuel pump loom ready for the 044 pump. Just need to get the fitting kit and measure the loom up in place on the car as the tank is further back than on a standard car. Also currently my fuel pump loom although well clipped up is not far from exhaust and totally exposed to elements etc so it is being relocated so that the wiring comes out of boot floor via a gromit directly on top of the fuel tank, that way its all protected and has a short run. This is it so far:



Need to do some measuring then fit a relay connector. Im using the original fuel pump power feed as the trigger for the relay in the boot and the power and earth is being taken direct from the boot (boot mounted battery!) so i get a good stable supply.

Set about pulling apart the engine bay wiring today as i need a new header tank cap as my old one leaks and my fans keep blowing the fuse so i cant really drive it unless i rely on the "backup" radiator fans commonly known as the heater fans

Firstly i removed this stupid air bypass valve thingy that wasnt even connected:

It was fed by its own relay and fuse taken off the battery junction box and triggered by an ignition live and switch next to my antilag switch. Removed it all!!

I then took a look at the wiring near the coil to try and find the lecktron valve connector.

Found i have a group A coil apparently because of the connector on it.
I have found all taped up what i believe to be the amal valve connection:

So a bit of repair and that shall be set up ready for fitting a new chip and a lecktron valve.
I also found another bodge!! The alarm sensor on the bonnet is defective, yet the alarm doesnt sound the fault signal!! this is the sensor plug and he had bodged it with a bit of wire so the alarm doesnt detect the fault. Left it under the tape as it works for now until i get the new bonnet sensor.


Oh on a side note, be careful when using your nails to pick connectors open:

Yes that hurt!!

Ive also started to trace the fan wiring so i can rip it out for new. So far its all wrapped with the rest of the car loom so going to take a while to unravel and find the relay etc. Was looking at the fan switch on the radiator and im a bit confused:


The circular connector only has two wires which seems wrong to me. Surely there should be 4 wires, 2 for each fan stage, ie supply in and feed to fan for each fan. the earth i have found so thats solved. Anyone know why only 2 wires??

Ive been told my loom is a saphire 4x4 engine loom which in theory makes it easier as at least i know what im looking at. Ive had a look at the two main engine loom relays and arent sure which one is which.


If i can find a saphire wiring diagram i can identify each one by the colours of the wires.

Also these arrived in the post today:

Just need to get them fitted!!! Local garage wanted Ł130 PER tyre fitted!! Camskill came up Ł128 the pair delivered!!!

[graham c]

i mite just be the ecos that had a 2 stage fan this mk1 use,s saff stuff, its 1 stage like yours

[tothefloor]

excellent stuff. did you get the car from Dnocaster by any chance?

im sure tony sold it to someone i doncaster but it didnt last long

[COCHYN]

Full of bodges and screems Pumagreed, but still a cool car

[warrenpenalver]

Originally Posted by tothefloor

excellent stuff. did you get the car from Dnocaster by any chance?

No i bought it direct from tony. I lived in doncaster at the time i bought it

Originally Posted by graham c

i mite just be the ecos that had a 2 stage fan this mk1 use,s saff stuff, its 1 stage like yours

Ahh ok might keep it 1 stage but wire each fan seperately.

[tothefloor]

[quote=warrenpenalver;4161634]No i bought it direct from tony. I lived in doncaster at the time i bought it


QUOTE]

that must have been you then, i saw it a garage across the road from askern timber yard!

[warrenpenalver]

yeah i was living on a mates sofa in askern at the time you spotted it

That was just after the clutch cable snapped

[warrenpenalver]

Started to pull apart a spare fusebox i had. The original puma has a two stage fan system with a low speed and high speed relays feeding one fan via a resister, all fed by a 60A fused supply.

Now thats ideal to be modified for my needs. I wont be using a resister as i have two fans and the switch is on the radiator not ECU controlled, BUT it means i have 2 spare relay positions in my fusebox with all the right supplys for a new fan wiring installation!

Luckily for me, most modern fords use a easy to dismantle modular fuse box. All the relay holders unclip for easy maintenance and repair (yet ford claims it will only supply a full loom - so why design it modular and repairable then? go figure!).

All the connectors disconnected from the fuse box:


Looks a mess but its all colour coded, even the relays match colour of relay holder so you cant mix things up!!!

And this is where it all fits:


I only need to remove two relay holders and thier wiring from the loom so the spare connectors will be cut off and kept for recycling and any future repairs.

I also finished my wiring plans for the later "3 button" remote alarm. In essence all ive had to do is match the new pin to the equivilent old pin, no complex rewiring as such. So ive aquired the right connectors for the new alarm box:


Just need to raid the scrappy for an old style remote central locking box as i need to cut off the connectors on the box so i can link them to the new alarm and have the unit able to directly plug into the loom in my car. I intend to make it so its "plug and play" with no major butchery of the loom.

[Lambchop]

Originally Posted by youngben

this the same car mate?

http://www.pumaspeed.co.uk/showdetails.php?id=547

looks ace that nice1

says 460 bhp at the top of the ad yet down below its a 430+ bhp engine

looks ace though!

i'd remove the stickers along the bottom of the doors personally. I wouldnt want to advertise those cowboys!

[OldDan]

Originally Posted by Lambchop

i'd remove the stickers along the bottom of the doors personally. I wouldnt want to advertise those cowboys!

Glad you said it!!

[warrenpenalver]

they coming off when it warms up and i get round to it. Got enough other jobs to be doing at the moment.

[Daveysaff]

Have you go tany pics from when the fab work was done on the shell warren?

[warrenpenalver]

Originally Posted by Daveysaff

Have you go tany pics from when the fab work was done on the shell warren?

Look on page 1

Well fitted a new header cap today so now nothing leaks out which is good

Going to rip out the thermostat to be sure when i drain coolant system and test it on the hob just to ensure ive covered all the areas as i find even at motorway speeds it seems to run warmer than it did a couple of weeks back. Not much warmer, just a slight bit on the guage but its an increase with no obvious cause so warrants investigation IMO. Id of expected even a tuned cossie to be relatively cool on the guage at steady 70, even with rad fans disconnected as they are now while i replace loom.

looking at the fan loom connector it is clearly fucked:


Doesnt look too good so needs replacing/rebuilding!!!

[cossie604]

Originally Posted by warrenpenalver

theres a few nice saphs ive seen around in stoke and a imp blue escos.

The rsoc escort cosworth registrar lives in Stoke, and owns a imperial blue escos

[graham c]

warren i,ve just put some pic,s of my quick release and the gearbox lock am fitting to my car as well as alarm! the quickrelease and the gearboxx lock are cheap and well easy to fit if its lock in gear and no steering wheel its not ever going far? sleep easy!

[lewismk1]

nice car mate, my girlfriend has a puma, afraid to say it already has intermitent wiper speed.. if you put it on then off, count how many seconds you want it to be, then on again, they set to that many seconds...

[warrenpenalver]

Originally Posted by lewismk1

nice car mate, my girlfriend has a puma, afraid to say it already has intermitent wiper speed.. if you put it on then off, count how many seconds you want it to be, then on again, they set to that many seconds...

im not stupid..... its only the late pumas that have it and they dont have a twisty dial to change intermittant delay, as you say you have to manually time it to set it which is not as simple as mine..

[warrenpenalver]

Just a couple of pics update really!

My front suspension strut died a while back!!





whoops!! the whole bearing and top cup is knackered so replacing it with new!!! The damper is being rebuilt with a new central rod to sort out the snapped one and im rebuilding the other side with new bearing etc just to be safe!!

Nice table of new bits and bobs to sort things out!!


Reassembled my rad and some escos fans i picked up ready to go back in:


This is the coilover i need to de-rust before taping the threads up.


I shall also sort out the springs!!

need to find a rubber grommit to go on this brake pipe clip:

A cable tie is just asking for chaffing damage!!! There isnt any damage so far but theres the potential so it needs sorting for piece of mind.

[SumpNut]

I like this car a lot and its good to see you sorting out the bodges/ repairing it properly.

Keep up the good work!

[warrenpenalver]

Thought id do an update for today!!!

Had to buy a few bits for preventative maintenance and tidying things up!!



First of all a massive bottle of kurust!! Will be spraying it liberally on the chassis and underbody while cars in the air to hold rust at bay until the winter when i can do a proper clean up of the underside.

Got myself some nice nimbus heat shield at coombe which is going to go round the turbo and downpipe area for shielding!!


Ive got some new inlet manifold gaskets off R&B:

I need these as one of the securing bolts was missing on my car and the gasket is slightly displaced albiet not leaking with bolt replaced, should be changed to be on the safe side.

Ive also got some spare ignition amplifiers:

I need 2 to go coilpack but also wanted the backing plate so i can mount the second amplifier.

Got a bag of P clips off SteveH in the right size for my fuel hoses so i can secure them a bit better as i feel the clip spacing is a bit too much at present in places!


Ive also been aquiring wiring loom bits so i can make my engine wiring loom:

and also a brand new ECU plug and terminals:

[Elvis]

See you at ford fair