Ford Pop (long-term resto)
24-01-2009, 02:45 PM
#1
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Ford Pop (long-term resto)
Well, you have had the Cabriolet, you have had the 2000e.....
..... now it is "Pop" time
Well, this is how it starts.... this is an original Ford "Pop" 1100 side-valve. All the bodywork and interior is 100% original. The car has been in the family since it was almost new and has been stored in a lockup for @ least the last 27 to 28 years without turning a wheel.
All original bodywork
original 44,922 miles from new on its original engine
Some kids got into the garage a few years back and managed to climb over the roof, so that will all need repairing and a new wooden framework made. We do have the original schematics for the frame around somewhere, so they will be remade to exact specs.
Engine bay is completely untouched. Unfortunately, the engine will need replacing as it died due to a premature hole in the piston
Underneath was painted in coach paint about 35 years ago, but will be getting stripped back and enamelled.
Single rear spring
The aim is to completely rebuild this, including a full respray in Dorchester Grey (original shade). A new wood floor will be made, all instruments rebuilt and a brand new engine installed. I actually have said brand new engine in the garage just under the bench to be fitted straight from Ford
Somewhere, my father has some brand new steel wheels and original cross-ply tyres to fit as well (tubed tyres), so that should be interesting.
All the glass is present, just not fitted. I need to find a boot lock as that has gone missing, and I need to repair the electric little "flip out" indicators that go in the B-post just behind the doors, although apparently the bits are around somewhere.
The whole underneath will be stripped back and fully coach-enamelled where necessary and painted elsewhere.
The electrical system will be going negative-earth with an uprated 35-45A alternator and a decent alarm fitted accordingly.
This is gonna be fun.......
First job though will be to actually relocate it to my fathers driveway where it will be getting done, get the roof repaired and the windows fitted to make it watertight..........
..... now it is "Pop" time
Well, this is how it starts.... this is an original Ford "Pop" 1100 side-valve. All the bodywork and interior is 100% original. The car has been in the family since it was almost new and has been stored in a lockup for @ least the last 27 to 28 years without turning a wheel.
All original bodywork
original 44,922 miles from new on its original engine
Some kids got into the garage a few years back and managed to climb over the roof, so that will all need repairing and a new wooden framework made. We do have the original schematics for the frame around somewhere, so they will be remade to exact specs.
Engine bay is completely untouched. Unfortunately, the engine will need replacing as it died due to a premature hole in the piston
Underneath was painted in coach paint about 35 years ago, but will be getting stripped back and enamelled.
Single rear spring
The aim is to completely rebuild this, including a full respray in Dorchester Grey (original shade). A new wood floor will be made, all instruments rebuilt and a brand new engine installed. I actually have said brand new engine in the garage just under the bench to be fitted straight from Ford
Somewhere, my father has some brand new steel wheels and original cross-ply tyres to fit as well (tubed tyres), so that should be interesting.
All the glass is present, just not fitted. I need to find a boot lock as that has gone missing, and I need to repair the electric little "flip out" indicators that go in the B-post just behind the doors, although apparently the bits are around somewhere.
The whole underneath will be stripped back and fully coach-enamelled where necessary and painted elsewhere.
The electrical system will be going negative-earth with an uprated 35-45A alternator and a decent alarm fitted accordingly.
This is gonna be fun.......
First job though will be to actually relocate it to my fathers driveway where it will be getting done, get the roof repaired and the windows fitted to make it watertight..........
24-01-2009, 02:53 PM
#3
PassionFord Post Whore!!
My mate bough one of these just before xmas. Its a 1954 in Bristol Fawn with red vynal interior. He plans to fully restore it/street rod it running an XE engine.
I think he's mad
I think he's mad
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28-05-2011, 04:35 PM
#12
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Well, it has been a while, but it @ last moves from its resting place for the last 30 years.
I have managed to get some photos of the actual state of the car, some bits are better than excpected, a couple, including the roof itself, are in slightly worse condition.
To give you all an idea....
Outside
Inside
Wiring --
Floor --
Trim --
Dash and gauges --
Accessory wiper motor --
Aux air vent control --
Main beam switch --
Fog and spot lamp switches --
Brightwork
Radiator grille trims
Old and new "Popular" badges for bootlid --
Bootlid lock cover --
Bonnet rear retaining clip --
Original radiator grille emblem --
Brand new emblem to go in its place --
New inserts to go between wings and body --
Spare wheel with brand new tyre
Old wheel with knackered tyre
Spare gearbox
Ash roof bracing bars (impossible to find nowadays)
I have already purchased a new roof material and fixing kit for the outside, but have not taken any photos of these items yet.
Heater system and 100E carb and airbox
Radiator was filled with 50/50 antifreeze and water when it was put into storage. There does not appear to have been any leaks, and there is still traces of water in the radiator, so possibly looking good for salvaging the cooling system
Jacking holes in the floor
And unfortunately, the roof
Fortunately, the rust is all just below the surface, as in, if you dig it with a screwdriver or similar, it does pretty much scratch off to good metal underneath. So, next time I go round to it (hopefully to take the engine out) I can put some rust treatments on the areas affected and it should stop any further rust.
The rest of the car is spot-on as far as corrosion goes. The roof needs repainting now due to scratches, etc... and the drivers wing needs paint due to things having been rubbed against it during its years, but not visible whilst in the garage. The rest of the body just really needs a good t-cut and wax and it should be good to go.
The list of things to get is not that long, mainly silly things like wheel brace, jack, starting handle, some assorted clips, etc... to get the ball rolling.
The wheels in the pics above are to go away for shot-blasting and will be going back on the car in their original colours with new tyres. The "new" tyre in the picture will be used for the spare.
What is more amazing is that, although it has sat for over 30 years without moving, and on flat tyres, they all pumped up to 30psi and the car simply rolled out of the garage.
All the interior door cards, etc.. will be getting replaced with new board and most likely, a velour finish. Eventually, the seats will be going from blue to red and a carpet will be installled.
The car has now been turned round in the garage and is ready to have its engine removed. More to follow......
I have managed to get some photos of the actual state of the car, some bits are better than excpected, a couple, including the roof itself, are in slightly worse condition.
To give you all an idea....
Outside
Inside
Wiring --
Floor --
Trim --
Dash and gauges --
Accessory wiper motor --
Aux air vent control --
Main beam switch --
Fog and spot lamp switches --
Brightwork
Radiator grille trims
Old and new "Popular" badges for bootlid --
Bootlid lock cover --
Bonnet rear retaining clip --
Original radiator grille emblem --
Brand new emblem to go in its place --
New inserts to go between wings and body --
Spare wheel with brand new tyre
Old wheel with knackered tyre
Spare gearbox
Ash roof bracing bars (impossible to find nowadays)
I have already purchased a new roof material and fixing kit for the outside, but have not taken any photos of these items yet.
Heater system and 100E carb and airbox
Radiator was filled with 50/50 antifreeze and water when it was put into storage. There does not appear to have been any leaks, and there is still traces of water in the radiator, so possibly looking good for salvaging the cooling system
Jacking holes in the floor
And unfortunately, the roof
Fortunately, the rust is all just below the surface, as in, if you dig it with a screwdriver or similar, it does pretty much scratch off to good metal underneath. So, next time I go round to it (hopefully to take the engine out) I can put some rust treatments on the areas affected and it should stop any further rust.
The rest of the car is spot-on as far as corrosion goes. The roof needs repainting now due to scratches, etc... and the drivers wing needs paint due to things having been rubbed against it during its years, but not visible whilst in the garage. The rest of the body just really needs a good t-cut and wax and it should be good to go.
The list of things to get is not that long, mainly silly things like wheel brace, jack, starting handle, some assorted clips, etc... to get the ball rolling.
The wheels in the pics above are to go away for shot-blasting and will be going back on the car in their original colours with new tyres. The "new" tyre in the picture will be used for the spare.
What is more amazing is that, although it has sat for over 30 years without moving, and on flat tyres, they all pumped up to 30psi and the car simply rolled out of the garage.
All the interior door cards, etc.. will be getting replaced with new board and most likely, a velour finish. Eventually, the seats will be going from blue to red and a carpet will be installled.
The car has now been turned round in the garage and is ready to have its engine removed. More to follow......
28-05-2011, 09:41 PM
#15
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Might do something for this time next year. It still has a cardboard logbook so needs all that sorting out yet. Plus the engine is seized, and I need to probably rebuild the new one sitting in its crate as it has probably seized as well by now
29-05-2011, 07:36 AM
#17
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Also, to put it into perspective, a friend has a Series 1 RST he is rebuilding, that will cost more and take longer to get running than this will. I am aiming to have it ready for the road next year, his will barely be painted by then and the paintwork alone will cost over twice what this will to do from start to finish.
The Pop has no welding needing doing, everything is pretty much cosmetic other than the engine which will need rebuilding. Even the engines are small and simple. That gearbox in the picture was in an oil box that would normally hold 4 bottles of oil. The engine is barely any bigger.
07-06-2011, 07:06 PM
#22
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Some new parts, yay.....
New outer roof material, very important
This is stretched over the roof and the ash beams after the inner support foam has been laid and provides the overall protection.
The aforementioned new foam
Inside this, you have the inner rooflining, very similar to what most modern cars have. It is attached in the same way as most cars like MK3/4 Escorts. A set of rods pass through the lining and are attached to the body of the car. The material is then glued to the window and door apertures and held in place by the seals.
New set of door and window felt seals. These are simply cut to length and inserted into the panel spaces as needed.
New bottom end gasket set for the engine build
New top end gasket set, including head gasket.
The inlet manifold gasket is not from the 103e, but instead the 100e as this had a bigger carb, air filter and better flow, so I will be using one of these instead. The carb, along with the 100e cam should make the car a little bit more lively. Think of them as the 1950s version of a K&N filter, twin-choke weber and performance cam and you get the idea
There are no new head bolts simply because they are not used. It is a simple stud and nut way of doing things, and the nuts are available from most places.
New outer roof material, very important
This is stretched over the roof and the ash beams after the inner support foam has been laid and provides the overall protection.
The aforementioned new foam
Inside this, you have the inner rooflining, very similar to what most modern cars have. It is attached in the same way as most cars like MK3/4 Escorts. A set of rods pass through the lining and are attached to the body of the car. The material is then glued to the window and door apertures and held in place by the seals.
New set of door and window felt seals. These are simply cut to length and inserted into the panel spaces as needed.
New bottom end gasket set for the engine build
New top end gasket set, including head gasket.
The inlet manifold gasket is not from the 103e, but instead the 100e as this had a bigger carb, air filter and better flow, so I will be using one of these instead. The carb, along with the 100e cam should make the car a little bit more lively. Think of them as the 1950s version of a K&N filter, twin-choke weber and performance cam and you get the idea
There are no new head bolts simply because they are not used. It is a simple stud and nut way of doing things, and the nuts are available from most places.
10-08-2011, 09:14 PM
#25
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Suppose it is time I made an update to this.
Decided that I had too much stuff cluttering up the loft @ my fathers place, so the best thing to do was to sort out what I had. Turns out that it included 8 tyres, most of them brand new and 4 brand new chalked inner tubes
So, as you can't fit new tyres to old shitty rims, it was time to get the rims cleaned up and painted before getting a good friend of mine to fit them all for me.
So, on with the piccies.....
The collection
The wheels themselves
Back of the wheel
Original wheel condition
New innertubes
Nice new tyres
The tyres are all a mixture of Avon HM Tourist, Dunlop Silver Seal and Dunlop Gold Seal, with @ least 2 of each type. The new spare is a Firestone.
All tyres are 4.50 x 17", bigger than what's on any of my other cars
Decided that I had too much stuff cluttering up the loft @ my fathers place, so the best thing to do was to sort out what I had. Turns out that it included 8 tyres, most of them brand new and 4 brand new chalked inner tubes
So, as you can't fit new tyres to old shitty rims, it was time to get the rims cleaned up and painted before getting a good friend of mine to fit them all for me.
So, on with the piccies.....
The collection
The wheels themselves
Back of the wheel
Original wheel condition
New innertubes
Nice new tyres
The tyres are all a mixture of Avon HM Tourist, Dunlop Silver Seal and Dunlop Gold Seal, with @ least 2 of each type. The new spare is a Firestone.
All tyres are 4.50 x 17", bigger than what's on any of my other cars
10-08-2011, 09:30 PM
#26
www.virtualseason.net
You have a cracking project there mate, wish you all the best!
You should put this on http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi they would love it.
Ginge
You should put this on http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi they would love it.
Ginge
19-09-2011, 08:20 PM
#27
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Little bit of an update.
As the summer is moving on quickly and the cold, dark nights are well on their way, I figured it was now or never to get the engine out ready for some overhaul.
I'll let the pics do most of the talking...
Engine out
Starter motor
Modified oil filler tube to prevent fumes into the cabin
Clutch release bearing and gearbox, looking immaculate
Clutch looks like new
Old dynamo, will be getting changed for an alternator and probably go to an electric fan
Exhaust, looking a little bit rusty. Will be getting changed @ some point for a newer, slightly bigger bore to help with what the engine will be getting
Old wheels ready to have the tyres removed and get painted up like the others
First new wheel fitted to the car
How it looks now
I could not believe the overall condition of this as I took it apart. EVERY single nut and bolt came undone as if it was a new car, some, even easier.
When I disconnected the fuel connections from the fuel pump, fuel came out. Every hose clip came undone, the system still had a lot of water in it. Unbelievable.
The only real casualty in this is the water pump. It has seized solid internally, so will need to be removed and see what the condition is and whether or not it can be repaired.
I think I may have found the reason for the engine itself being completely seized. The headgasket, from looking through the plugholes appears to have failed whilst standing and has quite possibly caused the piston rings to stick on the bores. Once apart, the true condition can be confirmed. Wish me luck.......
As the summer is moving on quickly and the cold, dark nights are well on their way, I figured it was now or never to get the engine out ready for some overhaul.
I'll let the pics do most of the talking...
Engine out
Starter motor
Modified oil filler tube to prevent fumes into the cabin
Clutch release bearing and gearbox, looking immaculate
Clutch looks like new
Old dynamo, will be getting changed for an alternator and probably go to an electric fan
Exhaust, looking a little bit rusty. Will be getting changed @ some point for a newer, slightly bigger bore to help with what the engine will be getting
Old wheels ready to have the tyres removed and get painted up like the others
First new wheel fitted to the car
How it looks now
I could not believe the overall condition of this as I took it apart. EVERY single nut and bolt came undone as if it was a new car, some, even easier.
When I disconnected the fuel connections from the fuel pump, fuel came out. Every hose clip came undone, the system still had a lot of water in it. Unbelievable.
The only real casualty in this is the water pump. It has seized solid internally, so will need to be removed and see what the condition is and whether or not it can be repaired.
I think I may have found the reason for the engine itself being completely seized. The headgasket, from looking through the plugholes appears to have failed whilst standing and has quite possibly caused the piston rings to stick on the bores. Once apart, the true condition can be confirmed. Wish me luck.......
20-09-2011, 07:17 PM
#30
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Okay, scary time. It isn't seized!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It would also appear that the original conclusion from 1979 that the engine was seized was incorrect. I can only assume that the starter motor must have been seized onto the flywheel slightly as the engine turned over absolutely effortlessly, by pure hand power on the clutch.
So, I decided this evening to take the top off and see what the condition really is and I must say, I was VERY pleasantly surprised.
There is a little bit of surface corrosion on the bores, but definitely nothing that a simple light hone cannot remove.
I sprayed a little bit of WD40 into the bores to help lubricate and hopefully make sure the piston rings are okay.
The engine already has +0.20 oversize pistons in it from the factory, so that is covered for the rings, should I need them.
Headgasket is still in one condition, but will be replaced as a matter of course
Other than 2 studs, all the others came out with no problems, simply removal of the nuts is required. They will be cleaned up and reused
Even found an original, unopened gallon of 20w50 engine oil that was used in the car when it was on the road
It would also appear that the original conclusion from 1979 that the engine was seized was incorrect. I can only assume that the starter motor must have been seized onto the flywheel slightly as the engine turned over absolutely effortlessly, by pure hand power on the clutch.
So, I decided this evening to take the top off and see what the condition really is and I must say, I was VERY pleasantly surprised.
There is a little bit of surface corrosion on the bores, but definitely nothing that a simple light hone cannot remove.
I sprayed a little bit of WD40 into the bores to help lubricate and hopefully make sure the piston rings are okay.
The engine already has +0.20 oversize pistons in it from the factory, so that is covered for the rings, should I need them.
Headgasket is still in one condition, but will be replaced as a matter of course
Other than 2 studs, all the others came out with no problems, simply removal of the nuts is required. They will be cleaned up and reused
Even found an original, unopened gallon of 20w50 engine oil that was used in the car when it was on the road
20-09-2011, 07:27 PM
#32
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
looks like a good solid project car, keep the piccies coming i'll show them to my father in law so he gets his ass into gear to get his pop van done, he's had it 32 years now and never done anything with it.
22-09-2011, 08:52 PM
#35
Glennvestite
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Top progress matey.Its mad to think that most of the thinks you have took off ok and not many bolts have snapped.
Ive worked on a few modern cars which have only been a few years old and ive snapped bolts on them lol.
Ive worked on a few modern cars which have only been a few years old and ive snapped bolts on them lol.
08-10-2011, 05:25 PM
#39
OCD Victim
Thread Starter
Update time, it looks like my luck is even better than I thought.............
Water pump that was originally seized is now moving again, and able to pump water
Timing chain appears to be as new, certainly with no disclocation or distortion
The starter motor bendix has had it though. It is almost ready to disintegrate. Either a replacement will be required, or it may be possible to silver-solder it back to a usable condition
Lucky the engine was not able to be started, just check the amount of gunk in the sump
Crank is underground by 20 thou according to the shells
Flywheel is good, but unfortunately the ring gear needs to be changed as it has an incorrect number of teeth for the starter motor bendix. It is close, but then lined up, there is a small discrepancy, hence the damage to the bendix
Clutch is as new
Valves are all in very good condition, a bit of carbon build-up but nothing else
Valve springs are like new. Not even any carbon marks from being in oil
Pistons are as new. They even have the bedding-in marks on them still. What is even better is that they are 4-ring ones, not the 3-ring ones. Conrods look the same
Inside the almost bare block
Only bit I am having trouble removing at this stage is the locating peg which holds the oil pump drive to the camshaft. This needs removing to remove the cam. It appears to be stuck in place. Most likely will be a bit of light oxy-acetalene to assist removal
Bear in mind that all the bits above have been photographed EXACTLY as they have come out the engine, no cleanup at all. IT is staggering how good the condition is.
Next is to face the block, hone the bores, remove 1mm (60 thou) from the cylinder head and start to reassemble once the block and head are painted.
Water pump that was originally seized is now moving again, and able to pump water
Timing chain appears to be as new, certainly with no disclocation or distortion
The starter motor bendix has had it though. It is almost ready to disintegrate. Either a replacement will be required, or it may be possible to silver-solder it back to a usable condition
Lucky the engine was not able to be started, just check the amount of gunk in the sump
Crank is underground by 20 thou according to the shells
Flywheel is good, but unfortunately the ring gear needs to be changed as it has an incorrect number of teeth for the starter motor bendix. It is close, but then lined up, there is a small discrepancy, hence the damage to the bendix
Clutch is as new
Valves are all in very good condition, a bit of carbon build-up but nothing else
Valve springs are like new. Not even any carbon marks from being in oil
Pistons are as new. They even have the bedding-in marks on them still. What is even better is that they are 4-ring ones, not the 3-ring ones. Conrods look the same
Inside the almost bare block
Only bit I am having trouble removing at this stage is the locating peg which holds the oil pump drive to the camshaft. This needs removing to remove the cam. It appears to be stuck in place. Most likely will be a bit of light oxy-acetalene to assist removal
Bear in mind that all the bits above have been photographed EXACTLY as they have come out the engine, no cleanup at all. IT is staggering how good the condition is.
Next is to face the block, hone the bores, remove 1mm (60 thou) from the cylinder head and start to reassemble once the block and head are painted.