Aston Martin DBS with lots of pics & video!!!
08-01-2009, 04:27 PM
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Aston Martin DBS with lots of pics & video!!!
After restoring the car last year in time for my wedding, id hoped it would just behave its self, but no!
Head gasket has been getting progressivly worse, to the point where its now undriveable one as its running like a pig and also theres so much oil pissing out the block its ruined the clutch plate
So here we go:
Head gasket (decoke) kit with all gaskets etc, nuts and studs, oil filter, full set of brake pads and handbrake pads
£650 including postage. £450 of that is the head gasket stuff.
Im starting it today so expect some detailed engine pictures later.
heres some of the car just so your familiar with her
Before the restoration
after
My wife and I 13 months ago gunbarrel
today
I think the hardest part will be seperating the head from the block!
Head gasket has been getting progressivly worse, to the point where its now undriveable one as its running like a pig and also theres so much oil pissing out the block its ruined the clutch plate
So here we go:
Head gasket (decoke) kit with all gaskets etc, nuts and studs, oil filter, full set of brake pads and handbrake pads
£650 including postage. £450 of that is the head gasket stuff.
Im starting it today so expect some detailed engine pictures later.
heres some of the car just so your familiar with her
Before the restoration
after
My wife and I 13 months ago gunbarrel
today
I think the hardest part will be seperating the head from the block!
08-01-2009, 06:53 PM
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Here the only other pic i have on the pc, in its drab blue
The desperatly needed a respray, looks ok in the "blue" pic but it was far from perfect.
Originally the idea was to just respray it he same, but after not being able to find a paint match i got suspicious. Phoned aston the their records show the car left the factory in red paint.
They really are amazing (aston) they had a list of everything, the name of the bloke who built the engine the name of the bloke who did the interior. these cars were built properly on a individual basis. tho you would expect that from a car which when new was worth than the avarage house!!.
There are about 4 different aston reds from this era, but they even had on their records the paint code, funilly enough the aston code is labled as "Fiesta Red" kind of takes the romance out of it a little, tho i guess the fiesta didnt exist in 1971?
Anyway during the striping the car and removing the windscreen (which was £1100 to replace
) i found lots of the red paint around the frame which only backed up what the cars history folder said.
So there you have it, its back in its original red colour. The chrome work was all redone, but i think the chrome was a little lost on the blue anyway!
I have attacked the engine bay with nearly a whole can of WD40, in the hope that it may make some things a little easier tommrow.
The car was put on the rollers a while back when the carbs were set up and it read a miserable 186 bhp
This is the vantage model with the tripple webber 45's and It left the factory with 325bhp and 390ft/lb, some even recorded 350bhp as aston were always a little shy when they quoted power fiqures. Im guessing because owners of other similar cars of the time, were given falsely high factory bhp fiqures, which made the aston feel quick in comparison?
Anyway 325 down to 186 is a little sad. I plan to dyno the car when its back on the road, see how close it can get to the original bhp.
The desperatly needed a respray, looks ok in the "blue" pic but it was far from perfect.
Originally the idea was to just respray it he same, but after not being able to find a paint match i got suspicious. Phoned aston the their records show the car left the factory in red paint.
They really are amazing (aston) they had a list of everything, the name of the bloke who built the engine the name of the bloke who did the interior. these cars were built properly on a individual basis. tho you would expect that from a car which when new was worth than the avarage house!!.
There are about 4 different aston reds from this era, but they even had on their records the paint code, funilly enough the aston code is labled as "Fiesta Red"
kind of takes the romance out of it a little, tho i guess the fiesta didnt exist in 1971?Anyway during the striping the car and removing the windscreen (which was £1100 to replace
) i found lots of the red paint around the frame which only backed up what the cars history folder said.So there you have it, its back in its original red colour. The chrome work was all redone, but i think the chrome was a little lost on the blue anyway!
I have attacked the engine bay with nearly a whole can of WD40, in the hope that it may make some things a little easier tommrow.
The car was put on the rollers a while back when the carbs were set up and it read a miserable 186 bhp
This is the vantage model with the tripple webber 45's and It left the factory with 325bhp and 390ft/lb, some even recorded 350bhp as aston were always a little shy when they quoted power fiqures. Im guessing because owners of other similar cars of the time, were given falsely high factory bhp fiqures, which made the aston feel quick in comparison?
Anyway 325 down to 186 is a little sad. I plan to dyno the car when its back on the road, see how close it can get to the original bhp.
Last edited by Lee Ivatt; 08-01-2009 at 06:56 PM.
09-01-2009, 06:11 PM
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Right had a busy day, mot on my landy and beetle this moring, the wifes birthday and taken the head of the aston!
Well heres the story so far
1-Remove plugs and leads
2-Locate TDC
3-Drain water (i chose to just loosen up the pipe and let it trickle, as i didnt fancy disturbing the rad area and creating more potential issues later on)
4-Remove rocker cover breathers
5-Remove camshaft covers
6-Disconect alternator and bracket
7-Remove chain cover
8-Disconect throttle and vacum pipe
9-Disconect carbs
10-Remove dip stick
11-Disconect header tank pipe, temperature sensor wire and control valve
12-Disconect dizzy lead
13-Disconect manifolds
14-Remove the 4 front cylinder head bolts
15-"
16- Remove ignition lead tube
17- Mark and double mark camshafts
18-"
19-Mark upper chain tensioner
20-Note position of tensioner
21-Remove tensioner (big nut 13 turns, small 1/3 turn)
22-Slacken and remove chain guides
23-Remove chain with out moving cams and lay chain to left to avoid loosing it into the block
24-Remove remaining 14 Nuts (in reverse 'torque up' order)
25-Lift the head
26- Pint of beer (or 2)!
Well heres the story so far
1-Remove plugs and leads
2-Locate TDC
3-Drain water (i chose to just loosen up the pipe and let it trickle, as i didnt fancy disturbing the rad area and creating more potential issues later on)
4-Remove rocker cover breathers
5-Remove camshaft covers
6-Disconect alternator and bracket
7-Remove chain cover
8-Disconect throttle and vacum pipe
9-Disconect carbs
10-Remove dip stick
11-Disconect header tank pipe, temperature sensor wire and control valve
12-Disconect dizzy lead
13-Disconect manifolds
14-Remove the 4 front cylinder head bolts
15-"
16- Remove ignition lead tube
17- Mark and double mark camshafts
18-"
19-Mark upper chain tensioner
20-Note position of tensioner
21-Remove tensioner (big nut 13 turns, small 1/3 turn)
22-Slacken and remove chain guides
23-Remove chain with out moving cams and lay chain to left to avoid loosing it into the block
24-Remove remaining 14 Nuts (in reverse 'torque up' order)
25-Lift the head
26- Pint of beer (or 2)!
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13-01-2009, 09:17 AM
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Head
Right yesterday I attacked the head
After lifting the head off, i had to put it some where. It is very important lay the head on some wooden blocks, as at any time there will be at least 2 valves sitting fully open past the bottom of the head.
Laying it on a flat surface will bend a valve, due to the shear weight of the bloody thing. I chose to knock up a simple crate which i screwed together and also bolted the head to to avoid any expensive accidents
Just got back from the engineers workshop, as i wanted to show him the head complete, to get his opinion on the over all condition. I can comfirm he said all was well and it simply needed a good de-coke and a light skim for peace of mind.
So back in to my workshop (im so glad i have heat and i carpeted it, also have a big hifi, sink, kettle and toaster now- i could live in here)
Right
1- Remove dizzy (mark and make a note of position)
2- Remove cam shaft bearing caps (from center outwards to avoid stressing the camshaft under the valve spring tension) Also be aware the caps are also located buy 2 dowels around the stud bases, so the will require a gentle prise with a screw driver to loosen.
3- Lift out cam shaft
4- Make up a cardboard 'template'- Lay out each part as closly as you can to the head layout, this is probably the most important part of any head strip, what ever you do do not mix any parts.
5- Camshafts removed
6- Remove the hydrolic tappets (they will feel tight but what ever you do dont use pliers, the orange tool you see is a telescopic magnet, of of the most usefull tools i own. pull out the tappets with this, again placing them in order on the cardboard)
7- Syringe out as much remaining oil as possible (you will see why later)
8- Find your valve spring compressor
9- Tilt the head and support it with something (i have used a bit of tile batton and screwed it to the bench to be extra safe)
10- Very carefully tap the to0p of each valve, this should hopefully "crack" the collets binded into the taper. one gentle but accurate tap will do, but keep it square to the face to avoid rounding the valve end.
11- Use the valve compressor
12- Using the magnet, pull out the 2 collet halves. If the collets bind hasnt yet cracket you may need to tap the top of the tool with a hammer to release the bind.
13- valves removed
14- seats look in good condition uniform with no pitting
15- Dont forget to check all of the valve assembly has been removed, the lower part/valve stem oil seal will usually need to be teased out. loosen with a screw driver BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE WALLS OF THE VALVE SPRING HOUSING AS THIS CAN AFFECT THE TAPPETS LATER
16- Degrease the stripped head (be carefull not to remove any setting marks you have made, ie dizzy and chain tensioner)
I was supprised how smooth the head was, its as if aston polished the ports from standard, i dont know if this is a vantage spec thing but is was pleasently supprised. Rough ports can loose you 10-20bhp!
17- This is what you should be left with, make sure everything is located and in position. I marked grids on my card to be extra sure where each part has come from.
18 - This is what £692.33 looks like - headgasket kit, oil filter and a set of brake pads
. check everything is there ready for the rebuild!
19 - Take head to be skimmed.
I hope to have the head back tommrow, but whilst im waiting, gearbox needs to come out. The severe oil leak from the head has ruined the clutch, I was quoted £950 for a new kit, but thats stupid, hopefully i can get away with a clutch and release bearing for about £200.
After lifting the head off, i had to put it some where. It is very important lay the head on some wooden blocks, as at any time there will be at least 2 valves sitting fully open past the bottom of the head.
Laying it on a flat surface will bend a valve, due to the shear weight of the bloody thing. I chose to knock up a simple crate which i screwed together and also bolted the head to to avoid any expensive accidents
Just got back from the engineers workshop, as i wanted to show him the head complete, to get his opinion on the over all condition. I can comfirm he said all was well and it simply needed a good de-coke and a light skim for peace of mind.
So back in to my workshop (im so glad i have heat and i carpeted it, also have a big hifi, sink, kettle and toaster now- i could live in here)
Right
1- Remove dizzy (mark and make a note of position)
2- Remove cam shaft bearing caps (from center outwards to avoid stressing the camshaft under the valve spring tension) Also be aware the caps are also located buy 2 dowels around the stud bases, so the will require a gentle prise with a screw driver to loosen.
3- Lift out cam shaft
4- Make up a cardboard 'template'- Lay out each part as closly as you can to the head layout, this is probably the most important part of any head strip, what ever you do do not mix any parts.
5- Camshafts removed
6- Remove the hydrolic tappets (they will feel tight but what ever you do dont use pliers, the orange tool you see is a telescopic magnet, of of the most usefull tools i own. pull out the tappets with this, again placing them in order on the cardboard)
7- Syringe out as much remaining oil as possible (you will see why later)
8- Find your valve spring compressor
9- Tilt the head and support it with something (i have used a bit of tile batton and screwed it to the bench to be extra safe)
10- Very carefully tap the to0p of each valve, this should hopefully "crack" the collets binded into the taper. one gentle but accurate tap will do, but keep it square to the face to avoid rounding the valve end.
11- Use the valve compressor
12- Using the magnet, pull out the 2 collet halves. If the collets bind hasnt yet cracket you may need to tap the top of the tool with a hammer to release the bind.
13- valves removed
14- seats look in good condition uniform with no pitting
15- Dont forget to check all of the valve assembly has been removed, the lower part/valve stem oil seal will usually need to be teased out. loosen with a screw driver BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE WALLS OF THE VALVE SPRING HOUSING AS THIS CAN AFFECT THE TAPPETS LATER
16- Degrease the stripped head (be carefull not to remove any setting marks you have made, ie dizzy and chain tensioner)
I was supprised how smooth the head was, its as if aston polished the ports from standard, i dont know if this is a vantage spec thing but is was pleasently supprised. Rough ports can loose you 10-20bhp!
17- This is what you should be left with, make sure everything is located and in position. I marked grids on my card to be extra sure where each part has come from.
18 - This is what £692.33 looks like - headgasket kit, oil filter and a set of brake pads
. check everything is there ready for the rebuild!19 - Take head to be skimmed.
I hope to have the head back tommrow, but whilst im waiting, gearbox needs to come out. The severe oil leak from the head has ruined the clutch, I was quoted £950 for a new kit, but thats stupid, hopefully i can get away with a clutch and release bearing for about £200.
13-01-2009, 03:10 PM
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You may change you mind if youve spend all day underneath the F&^%ing thing, covered in oil and grease!
Ive just taken out the gearbox, to get to the clutch.
turns out its the bigger 10.5" one, good job i checked before ordering, as i was told id have the earlier 9.5".
Expect pics tonight for gearbox removal
13-01-2009, 06:34 PM
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Gearbox out ready for new clutch
1- Eye up the interior, your gone be getting intimate with it
2- Remove the front seats (8mm socket on rear, chrome slot screw on front)
3- Remove seatbelts
4- Prise up center console/switch gear pad
5- Lift partially out to reveal 2 screws (these secure the cowling)
6- Remove gear leather box cowling and move switch panel to side
7- Unscrew gear knob and remove leather gater
8- Remove carpets and gearbox carpet
9- Loosen center console, detach loom, heater vacum pipes and fuel mixture cable, move to one side. Then undo the 14 slot screws that hold down the fiberglass gearbox cowling.
10- With the screws out, slowly work two large screwdrivers round the cowling to break the rubber mastic seal. be gentle the glass fiber is 35 year old!!
11- Lift out the cowling (remember to remove the air con drip pipes and speedo cable which pass through the cowling)
12- If the propshaft nipple is showing, give it a grease which your there
13- Out of bordem i measured the power train length, from the front of the engine block to the rear of the gear box measures a crazy 5'11"!!!
14- Get under the car (i have a pit, but what ever you do make sure the vehicle is secure)
15- Remove slave cylinder and push rod
16- Loosen gearbox mounting (do not remove yet tho)
17- Disconnect the propshaft (you may need to jack up one wheel to rotate it if you cant get on all 4 nuts!)
18- Unbolt the bell housing
19- Disconnect reverse light wires, place a trolly jack under the gearbox. Position it centerally under the drain plug, as this is where the center of gravity is. the jack wants longtitudinal so the gear box can slide backwards.
-Slowly jack up the gear box about 3" to clear the propshaft.
-Lift out the gearbox mounting bracket (may need to disconnect the handbrake to acces one of the nuts)
- Place a bottle jack under the rear of the engine sump and jack the engine (place a bit of 3x3 between the jack and the sump and make sure it is longer than the sump to avoid damage) jack untill the gearbox just has its weight off of the trolly jack.
-Then jack the trolly jack/gearbox one pump just to take the strain.
Hopefully the gearbox and engine should be square after this, the main aim to lift the gear box higher then the prop to enable it to mave backwards. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE GEARBOX AND ENGINE ARE SQUARE OR YOU CAN DAMAGE THE SPLINE
- Sit on the rear seat and pull the box, it should simply slide back away from the engine rolling on the trolly jack perfectly ballanced (A mate would be really helpfull here as you need 3 hands at some points, but it can be done as i have shown)
20- Remove the gearbox- either get a mate and carry it out the car, or lower it down if your on a ramp/in a pit.
I have chosen to leave the box in the car for the moment, simply twisted it about 5%, still with the weight on the jack and it shoudl sit there ballenced nicley.
21- Have a peak at the clutch
I have left it here, as i want to rebuild the engine before i start messing with the clutch and risk turning the pistons.
1- Eye up the interior, your gone be getting intimate with it
2- Remove the front seats (8mm socket on rear, chrome slot screw on front)
3- Remove seatbelts
4- Prise up center console/switch gear pad
5- Lift partially out to reveal 2 screws (these secure the cowling)
6- Remove gear leather box cowling and move switch panel to side
7- Unscrew gear knob and remove leather gater
8- Remove carpets and gearbox carpet
9- Loosen center console, detach loom, heater vacum pipes and fuel mixture cable, move to one side. Then undo the 14 slot screws that hold down the fiberglass gearbox cowling.
10- With the screws out, slowly work two large screwdrivers round the cowling to break the rubber mastic seal. be gentle the glass fiber is 35 year old!!
11- Lift out the cowling (remember to remove the air con drip pipes and speedo cable which pass through the cowling)
12- If the propshaft nipple is showing, give it a grease which your there
13- Out of bordem i measured the power train length, from the front of the engine block to the rear of the gear box measures a crazy 5'11"!!!
14- Get under the car (i have a pit, but what ever you do make sure the vehicle is secure)
15- Remove slave cylinder and push rod
16- Loosen gearbox mounting (do not remove yet tho)
17- Disconnect the propshaft (you may need to jack up one wheel to rotate it if you cant get on all 4 nuts!)
18- Unbolt the bell housing
19- Disconnect reverse light wires, place a trolly jack under the gearbox. Position it centerally under the drain plug, as this is where the center of gravity is. the jack wants longtitudinal so the gear box can slide backwards.
-Slowly jack up the gear box about 3" to clear the propshaft.
-Lift out the gearbox mounting bracket (may need to disconnect the handbrake to acces one of the nuts)
- Place a bottle jack under the rear of the engine sump and jack the engine (place a bit of 3x3 between the jack and the sump and make sure it is longer than the sump to avoid damage) jack untill the gearbox just has its weight off of the trolly jack.
-Then jack the trolly jack/gearbox one pump just to take the strain.
Hopefully the gearbox and engine should be square after this, the main aim to lift the gear box higher then the prop to enable it to mave backwards. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE GEARBOX AND ENGINE ARE SQUARE OR YOU CAN DAMAGE THE SPLINE
- Sit on the rear seat and pull the box, it should simply slide back away from the engine rolling on the trolly jack perfectly ballanced (A mate would be really helpfull here as you need 3 hands at some points, but it can be done as i have shown)
20- Remove the gearbox- either get a mate and carry it out the car, or lower it down if your on a ramp/in a pit.
I have chosen to leave the box in the car for the moment, simply twisted it about 5%, still with the weight on the jack and it shoudl sit there ballenced nicley.
21- Have a peak at the clutch
I have left it here, as i want to rebuild the engine before i start messing with the clutch and risk turning the pistons.
14-01-2009, 08:35 AM
#21
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Supprisingly no, Ok its covered in 35 years of grease and drenched in oil from the head gasket fail, but that in its self has been a bonus as every nut and bolt (apart from one- will explain later) has come undone effortlessly!!
Also being such a big car, theres so much room to work around, its quite nice.
My escort cosworth to two of us the best part of 4 hours to remove the head, due to lack of space and im sure as any cossie owner will know "F^%*ing air con pipes"
Not really once you get over the evoking and awesome name Aston Martin, then it just becomes any other car with another engine.
Its just in the back of your mind your aware if anything goes wrong its gna cost. The head gasket kit alone cost almost £500!!
Total materials which i will run through at the end are looking over £1500 now. Aston Martin specialists will want £60+ per hour, so id dread to think what it would cost if it was sent away.
My head gasket on my landrover also needs doing it finally started to go at 180k
, in more nervous about this than the aston!Just had a call head has been skimmed so expect rebuild pics very shortly!
14-01-2009, 08:40 AM
#22
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Im keeping it real
.....You may like to know the work so far has been carried out to one of my favorite albums - antichrist superstar.
I think "today i will be mostly listening to......dark side of the moon"
14-01-2009, 08:50 AM
#23
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No im better, step buy step pics and instructions, none of this refer to chapter B:3.1 rubbish
Im keeping it real.....
You may like to know the work so far has been carried out to one of my favorite albums - antichrist superstar.
I think "today i will be mostly listening to......dark side of the moon"
Im keeping it real
.....You may like to know the work so far has been carried out to one of my favorite albums - antichrist superstar.
I think "today i will be mostly listening to......dark side of the moon"
Not listened to any marilyn manson for years
And dark side of the moon yep yep, gets my approval
Refer to chapter B1, subsection 2, picture 3 for a completely unrelated indecipherable picture pmsl
14-01-2009, 05:36 PM
#25
PassionFord Post Whore!!
excellent read!
can we have pics of your house as it looks lovely?!
is that a copper head gasket? how long did it take to get the head off the block, i've not experienced it myself but heard they can be a nightmare!
can we have pics of your house as it looks lovely?!
is that a copper head gasket? how long did it take to get the head off the block, i've not experienced it myself but heard they can be a nightmare!
14-01-2009, 07:25 PM
#27
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Copper is soft so makes a tight seal and once pressed/bent it work hardens
The only disadvantage is its obviously a lot softer, so will damage easily.
Head came off easily, secret is to keep it all square and take your time. In really bad cases where water is an issue the head can litterally fuse its self to the block, but you have to seriously unlucky for that.
Just come in for a drink, got about another 20 mins and the head will be complete again, so pics to follow in a bit!
14-01-2009, 07:55 PM
#28
great thread - love threads with loads of pics to look at.
car looks so much nicer in the red too!
are the prices you paid the norm for Aston Martin parts? - looks very expensive for a few bits.
looking forward to update!
Mart
car looks so much nicer in the red too!
are the prices you paid the norm for Aston Martin parts? - looks very expensive for a few bits.
looking forward to update!
Mart
14-01-2009, 09:09 PM
#29
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great thread , i work on these cars for a living (www.gwautos.com) we convert them to an automatic 4 speed overdrive box
parts are not cheap for these cars
keep up the good work
wayne
parts are not cheap for these cars
keep up the good work
wayne
14-01-2009, 09:12 PM
#30
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Right the head is complete and together again:
Head build up
1- Soak the valves in engine degreaser over night (a load of areosol can caps are ideal helping to keep the valves seperate.
2- Nice smooth skimmed head
3- After the degreasing and closed inspection the exhaust valve seats show signs of light pitting
4- The inlet seats are ok, just need a "buff"
5- Get your self one of these
Valve and seat lapping
(It is important to do one valve set at a time to avoid mixing up parts)
6- This exhaust valve is covered in "coke" (wrap the top of the valve in some rag and gently put in vice, just enough to grip it but so its still free, you dont want to danage it)
7- Slowly work your way over the valve head with the wire brush tool, remember be gentle and avoid brushing the valve seat contact area!!
After a minuite it will look like this
8 - If you dont have one get your self a "lapping kit" normally about £5.
First check the valve for damage, hopefully there is none!
Fit the suction cup to the valve and apply the course lapping paste (repeat later with the fine paste)
9- Slide the valve in place and whilse applying pressure run the stlick in your hands (i.e ray mears stlye like your making a fire)
Dont worry it will sound horrible, but this is the paste doing its work!
10 - Being the ever inventive and going buy the saying theres always a quicker way, i made up a chuck and attached the lapping tool to my cordless drill.
really speeds up the process, as you'll be doing it 24 times!!! just dont go to fast, nice and steady is all you need.
11 -When the course paste stops making a noise, wipe both seats down and do the same again with the fine paste.
The valve and seat should look like this
It doesnt look much, but it really makes a difference!
REMEMBER IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REMOVE ALL TRACES OF LAPPING PASTE WHEN EACH VALVE IS DONE!!
12- Collect the relative parts for the valve and clean up.
13 - Apply a small amount of copper slip to the valve top, this will help the collets to locate when you release the valve spring compressor
14 - Measure the springs to make sure they are still with in the tollerences
15 - Reinstall the lapped valve And repeat the process for the other 11.
16 - Valves all in at last
17 - Turn the head over (make sure the cardboard beneath is clean so the head is not scratched!!!)
Tap each valve top with a hammer to check the collets are all seated correctly
18 - Slide in the tappets
19 - Locate the dizzy cog (dont forget this as it will be too late after the cam is in)
20 - VERY IMPORTANT - Apply a small amount of oil to the bearing seats, cam lobes and tappets.
21- With the cam shaft sitting in place, loosly fit all the bearings and nuts but DO NOT TIGHTEN!!
22- Before you tighten the cams get your wooden crate, and line the bearers with cardboard
23- Place the head on the pallet, making sure no valves are obstructed when open.
Tighten the cams down evenly and gradually. Either all lined up with the markings you made at the start, or if no marks are present the cams on piston 6 botn want to be pointing inwards to avoid any valves hitting each other!
24 - Note valve position, this is why you need the crate
25- Once your happy torque up the nuts to 10 lb/ft, double checking all the time your position markings!
26 Et volia, one complete head
15-01-2009, 07:17 PM
#32
Shizzle My Nizzle
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Thanks everyone.
Today i have refitted the head, but have run out of time for pics tonight, will up date tommrow. Hopefully with a viedo of first start up
Today i have refitted the head, but have run out of time for pics tonight, will up date tommrow. Hopefully with a viedo of first start up
17-01-2009, 01:50 PM
#34
Shizzle My Nizzle
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RE FITTING THE HEAD
1- Before the head goes on you need to check the tappet clearances.
Note the cam must be torqued to 10 lb/ft first
Luckily for my as there is little wear on the engine and i only lightly lapped the valves my clearances were with in the tollerences stated buy aston (see cardboard in pic)
If tollerences are not met, you need to remove the cam and either fit a thicker tappet (there are 4 sizes available) if the gap is to big or if a small atdusment is required to make the gap tighter you can continue to lap the valve further.
2- Prepare the block with a flat piece of wood and some fine wet and dry. If its really bad it may need a skim but it is very rare for this to be needed.
Get the studs and nuts ready.
2- Sadly my batteries died and took 30mins to recharge so i am missing a few pics here. but basically
Change the studs (use a stud extractor tool, you dont want them snappping off!!)
clean up the block.
3- Get some non setting gasket jointing compound, something like hylomar is fine (just read the instructions to make sure it is applicable for intended use, which hylomar blue is!)
4- Lightly oil the nuts to avoid a false torque reading (only needs to be coated, make sure there is not a puddle of oil as this again will affect the torque reading)
5- Hylomar the gasket up and carefully place the head on the block, avoiding any risk of scratching the skimmed surface
6 - Replace nuts and washers and torque up 40 then 60 then 75 lb/ft
Tighten up in the sequence i have taped on the head, to avoid distortion!
7- Replace rubber bungs
8- Check and double check the cams are both lined up exactly with your markings
9- Lay the chain over the cams MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS NOT KINKED/DOUBLED UP ON THE LOWER SPROCKET IN THE BLOCK AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS TIGHT BETWEEN EACH CAM SPROKED THE THE BLOCK SPROCKET
If your marking were done correctly, then the chain should simply fit perfectly on to the cams with out any problems
10- Again check the chain is tight between the sprockets
11- Fit chain guides/runner blocks
12- And wire up the bolts (you dont want these blocks falling anywhere)
13- Gather your new metal/rubber tensioner seal
check the sprocket and pin for signs of wear and replace if nessisary
14- Refit the tensioner and tighten back to the markings you made when it was removed. Make sure the nut it tight you dont want this coming undone!
15 - Check your timing (two people needed here really)
Get under the car and slowly turn the engine over buy hand
either a 36mm socket i think, of if you dont have one that big you can use a medium size flat head screwdriver and lever the crank round on the 8 nylocknuts.
be very careful and take it slow, if youve made a mistake this is where you want to find out not later. if in anyway the engine locks, have a good look as the worst case will be a valve hitting the piston or another valve.
If its all good after a few full rotations, then pull the pulley back round to the TDC mark where it was when u started, have a look up top (where the mate comes in handy) and the 2 cam marks shold be spot on in line with your tdc mark!
Also whilst your there turning it over get a mate to check that each tappet is free and moving. You would have checked this when doing the clearances but its always nice to check it again when the head is back on the block for peace of mind!
16- Refit the 4 front head bolts and tighten up
17- Make sure all 'gasket' surfaces are spotlessly clean and degreased.
Hylomar it up and refit.
umm clean
18- Fill up the tappet voids with oil.This will help lubricate on initial starup
19- Do the same for the rocker covers. The gaskets are cork, so no need for hlyomar, but i ran a small bead round again just to be extra sure
20- Loosly place the breather mesh in position, this is to save you droping any washers or nuts in there
21- replave nuts and washers, remember to fit the water temp wire
22- Refit the carbs, again make sure its all clean and smooth
23- the alternator will also need fitting at the same time as the bracket is incorporated with one of the inlet nuts
24- YOu get the idea, make sure its clean and fit
25 - fit dip stick
26 - fit water control valve, new gasket and attach wire, once again clean it right up
27- GO around everywhere and double check it all, things often forgotten are jubilee clips, wires, ht lead or a plug.
once happy, check oil and water levels.
(After a quick fire up you need to change the oil and filter)
JOB IS HOPEFULLY A GOOD'UN.
Turn on the battery isolator switch and start her up.
28- I ran it for about 10 mins, to get the temps up and rechecked the torqued nuts. You may also find it wont start to runs rough, this is most likley becuase the dizzy has moved, due to the cog sitting 1 or 2 splines out of original position when the cam was torqued down.
Heres a quick vid, hope the link works (note the proud paternal expression on my face)
if theres no sound let me know id ill try and fix it
Hope you enjoyed that.
Next week is clutch and brakes so stay tuned
1- Before the head goes on you need to check the tappet clearances.
Note the cam must be torqued to 10 lb/ft first
Luckily for my as there is little wear on the engine and i only lightly lapped the valves my clearances were with in the tollerences stated buy aston (see cardboard in pic)
If tollerences are not met, you need to remove the cam and either fit a thicker tappet (there are 4 sizes available) if the gap is to big or if a small atdusment is required to make the gap tighter you can continue to lap the valve further.
2- Prepare the block with a flat piece of wood and some fine wet and dry. If its really bad it may need a skim but it is very rare for this to be needed.
Get the studs and nuts ready.
2- Sadly my batteries died and took 30mins to recharge so i am missing a few pics here. but basically
Change the studs (use a stud extractor tool, you dont want them snappping off!!)
clean up the block.
3- Get some non setting gasket jointing compound, something like hylomar is fine (just read the instructions to make sure it is applicable for intended use, which hylomar blue is!)
4- Lightly oil the nuts to avoid a false torque reading (only needs to be coated, make sure there is not a puddle of oil as this again will affect the torque reading)
5- Hylomar the gasket up and carefully place the head on the block, avoiding any risk of scratching the skimmed surface
6 - Replace nuts and washers and torque up 40 then 60 then 75 lb/ft
Tighten up in the sequence i have taped on the head, to avoid distortion!
7- Replace rubber bungs
8- Check and double check the cams are both lined up exactly with your markings
9- Lay the chain over the cams MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS NOT KINKED/DOUBLED UP ON THE LOWER SPROCKET IN THE BLOCK AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS TIGHT BETWEEN EACH CAM SPROKED THE THE BLOCK SPROCKET
If your marking were done correctly, then the chain should simply fit perfectly on to the cams with out any problems
10- Again check the chain is tight between the sprockets
11- Fit chain guides/runner blocks
12- And wire up the bolts (you dont want these blocks falling anywhere)
13- Gather your new metal/rubber tensioner seal
check the sprocket and pin for signs of wear and replace if nessisary
14- Refit the tensioner and tighten back to the markings you made when it was removed. Make sure the nut it tight you dont want this coming undone!
15 - Check your timing (two people needed here really)
Get under the car and slowly turn the engine over buy hand
either a 36mm socket i think, of if you dont have one that big you can use a medium size flat head screwdriver and lever the crank round on the 8 nylocknuts.
be very careful and take it slow, if youve made a mistake this is where you want to find out not later. if in anyway the engine locks, have a good look as the worst case will be a valve hitting the piston or another valve.
If its all good after a few full rotations, then pull the pulley back round to the TDC mark where it was when u started, have a look up top (where the mate comes in handy) and the 2 cam marks shold be spot on in line with your tdc mark!
Also whilst your there turning it over get a mate to check that each tappet is free and moving. You would have checked this when doing the clearances but its always nice to check it again when the head is back on the block for peace of mind!
16- Refit the 4 front head bolts and tighten up
17- Make sure all 'gasket' surfaces are spotlessly clean and degreased.
Hylomar it up and refit.
umm clean
18- Fill up the tappet voids with oil.This will help lubricate on initial starup
19- Do the same for the rocker covers. The gaskets are cork, so no need for hlyomar, but i ran a small bead round again just to be extra sure
20- Loosly place the breather mesh in position, this is to save you droping any washers or nuts in there
21- replave nuts and washers, remember to fit the water temp wire
22- Refit the carbs, again make sure its all clean and smooth
23- the alternator will also need fitting at the same time as the bracket is incorporated with one of the inlet nuts
24- YOu get the idea, make sure its clean and fit
25 - fit dip stick
26 - fit water control valve, new gasket and attach wire, once again clean it right up
27- GO around everywhere and double check it all, things often forgotten are jubilee clips, wires, ht lead or a plug.
once happy, check oil and water levels.
(After a quick fire up you need to change the oil and filter)
JOB IS HOPEFULLY A GOOD'UN.
Turn on the battery isolator switch and start her up.
28- I ran it for about 10 mins, to get the temps up and rechecked the torqued nuts. You may also find it wont start to runs rough, this is most likley becuase the dizzy has moved, due to the cog sitting 1 or 2 splines out of original position when the cam was torqued down.
Heres a quick vid, hope the link works (note the proud paternal expression on my face)
if theres no sound let me know id ill try and fix it
Hope you enjoyed that.
Next week is clutch and brakes so stay tuned
17-01-2009, 07:25 PM
#37
Shizzle My Nizzle
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I must admit, even though id turned the engine over buy hand, and the the starter. I was still pooping it when i connected up the ht coil lead for the restart!
Looked like i was falling asleep in the car, but i was actually trying to adjust the fuel mixture
Well thats the scary bit over with, gearbox next.
All this tinkering over the last week has made me want to buy another S1 rst
.
Looked like i was falling asleep in the car, but i was actually trying to adjust the fuel mixture
Well thats the scary bit over with, gearbox next.
All this tinkering over the last week has made me want to buy another S1 rst
.
17-01-2009, 08:17 PM
#38
ST by Name and by Nature
Well done Lee, bet your right proud and so you should be. Bet you were s**ting yourself pressing that starter!
You had enough to do and you give us pictures and a video, brilliant. You make Haynes look like rank amateurs. Glad you re-sprayed her in her original red, much better colour, but I'm biased having a radiant red Ford.
Treat yourself to one of those beers on your bench, you've earned it.
You had enough to do and you give us pictures and a video, brilliant. You make Haynes look like rank amateurs. Glad you re-sprayed her in her original red, much better colour, but I'm biased having a radiant red Ford.
Treat yourself to one of those beers on your bench, you've earned it.
17-01-2009, 09:48 PM
#40
Shizzle My Nizzle
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Well done Lee, bet your right proud and so you should be. Bet you were s**ting yourself pressing that starter!
You had enough to do and you give us pictures and a video, brilliant. You make Haynes look like rank amateurs. Glad you re-sprayed her in her original red, much better colour, but I'm biased having a radiant red Ford.
Treat yourself to one of those beers on your bench, you've earned it.
You had enough to do and you give us pictures and a video, brilliant. You make Haynes look like rank amateurs. Glad you re-sprayed her in her original red, much better colour, but I'm biased having a radiant red Ford.
Treat yourself to one of those beers on your bench, you've earned it.
They are such snobs on that sight, they way they talk its like they have a butler to fill you the petrol
I just wanted to show them, that 'anyone' can do it and that an aston is still just another car, albeit with a fancy name.
Dont think i did too bad considering this is my first engine build, ive done stuff before but with lots of help, this is the first one ive done all buy my self. and what a car to do it on.
Ale's- Treated my self to the lot to drown the sorrows, just wrote out my check to the tax man, the cars i could buy with that ....
As soon as the gearbox is back in, its going back on the dynos, im very keen to see ive ive claimed back some of those 325horses