mallard green S2 resto (24/7/11, fuel filler relocation complete)

[johnboy19]

looking very nice

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[dingla rs]

Originally Posted by RSandy

the respray didnt go all plain sailing though, we did suffer a small amount of reaction in the laquer

we are pretty sure the paint supplier must have sumhow got speedy hardener in a standard hardener tin, because the mixture was correct, yet this went off extremely fast, touch dry in half an hour, and solid within 24hours!! couldnt even get a thumb nail print into it the day after!!

heres the blistering caused...



it took out the bonnet, and both front wings of the shell. the front wings have since been prepped and sprayed for a 2nd time...



and here is the paint lab used during spray time lol ....

that is what none as fish eye foreign body on panel ie wd40 anything silicon based do that,top job 4 a garage spray

[jonny s2]

great project mate

[smila]

any up dates mate

[duncansharp76]

tetrasyl not a good degreaser. also you could well endure problems with products not being compatable.

[Phil2002]

Originally Posted by dingla rs

that is what none as fish eye foreign body on panel ie wd40 anything silicon based do that,top job 4 a garage spray

wd40 is NOT silicone based!!

[duncansharp76]

wd40 used to be high i silicone, it has been reduced but still contains silicone chemicals hence the lubrication properties of it. might not of been caused by wd40. Could of been that silcone was in the area and that the degreaser was either not good enough and/or that the degreaser wasnt used properly with clean rags/cloth!!!

[duncansharp76]

gonna be a right pain in the arse here, the thinners you used in the basecoat awas not a basecoat thinner also you state you used expensive laqcuer, if the place you got it all from told you all these things were correct and of high quality i am afraid they are mickey mouse, Lechler are a budget paint manufacturer and the clearcoat you used, well i aint never heard of it and i have been painting for 15years. Top quality paints are ICI, Standox and my personal preferance Glasurit. Cant go wrong with Glasurit and they produce the worlds most expensive paint Volcano retailing at Ł1642.82p per litre. Sorry to put a downer on things. Rs looks groovy thou and the colour suits it well althou you are wrong stating that BMW Boston Green is not a pearl as it is and its alot bluer than the car you have mentioned it is on

[Phil2002]

according to wd40 it doesn't contain silicone at all. I found this out a few years ago when i went in to a painters that was painting a friends s1 turbo and spotted a can on the side i said to him isn't that a bit of a shit idea having that can of wd in his workshop and the old boy then told me that it was fine to use as it contained no silicone.

http://www.wd40.com/faqs/#q2

cheers,
Phil

[duncansharp76]

dunno bout that 1 phil. yes used to be hgh in silicone but still does have silicone same as waxoyl!!! has got friendlier but still not good to paint. I certainly would never dreram of having that stuff anywhere near me or my booth

[BrianEscCos]

what stage is it at now?, total respect for dediciation and skill Andy

[RSandy]

sorry for the lack of updates, took my class 2 HGV test a while back and landed a job instantly, but the long and changing hours have pretty much renderred car work slow and occasional

will update when i can

with regards to the random arguing over paint issues here

1, if the thread is read correctly, i never stated the lacquer was expensive, i siad good quality, and the preferred choice of my mate, who is also a painter by trade, and he uses it daily, so we chose to go with a known quantity over the unknown quantity and extra expense of a brand name that he rarely uses

2, it wasnt wd40 or anything of that type. this garage was moved into with the car in a completely stripped state, so nothing was ever fitted or messed with involving wd40

3, if it was a silicone reaction, 1 would assume it would have reacted in the base coat also, which it didnt. and seeing as the manufacturer of the paint themselves diagnosed it as what they thought was solvent pop due to too much hardener or the like, id say its safe to say thats the case, as we thought all along

4, lechler and the other brands used might not be the cool big brand names, but after using their scheme my bodywork guy likes the stuff, and it has been plenty high quality enuf for the levels im aiming for. wud be uneconomical and pointless for me to spend thousands on paint for a spray job in a garage surely?

in terms of how far along the car is now, not a massive lot further to be honest. bought all my goodridge braided brake lines and fittings, and made a start on that side of things. then just finished fitting the loom round the bay with new loom clips, plugged it all in, and fitted up the boost and coolant hoses etc

basically, ive been lazy

[dingla rs]

Originally Posted by Phil2002

wd40 is NOT silicone based!!

u try give ppl few pointers an luk wot appen

up an till 2 years ago it had lots of silicon in!!!!! +most cleaning products do unless stated NO SILICONE BASED an i dnt mean stuff used in body shops ,anything that give a high shine on plastics normly has silicon in


i use lechler mix wiv other products al time had no prbs if any douts or an old car that bn painted a few time we always use barcoat,wich is an isolater ,anyway top job for a hme diy job keep the posts coming

[RSandy]

if that last bit is aimed at me, im not going to argue about how long you have worked in a bodyshop lol

but seeing as my bodywork guy happens to have also worked in sed industry for a longer period than this, and has owned his own bodyshop, and currently runs a successful mobile business of his own, id say he also has a rough idea. and im guessing the manufacturers of the materials will also have a fair amount of experience in the field too

plus, off the track here too people, dont turn my thread into a slagging match for something which has long been solved, the paint popped, more materials were bought, and the paint was applied again and a great finish achieved, happy days

[dingla rs]

Originally Posted by RSandy

if that last bit is aimed at me, im not going to argue about how long you have worked in a bodyshop lol

but seeing as my bodywork guy happens to have also worked in sed industry for a longer period than this, and has owned his own bodyshop, and currently runs a successful mobile business of his own, id say he also has a rough idea. and im guessing the manufacturers of the materials will also have a fair amount of experience in the field too

plus, off the track here too people, dont turn my thread into a slagging match for something which has long been solved, the paint popped, more materials were bought, and the paint was applied again and a great finish achieved, happy days

not amied at u phil rote it,was only trying giv a pointer to hw it may of happend m8 nothing mre

[RSandy]

thats cool mate, no worries, just didnt want people arguin between themselves in here when the problem is already solved and the reason obtained

cheers for the positive comments anyways people, will sort sum picture updates asap, altho not exactly any major headway been made, safe to say it wnt be at ford fair unless it goes on a trailer, but i dnt fancy being a trailer fairy

[duncansharp76]

Yes Lechler aint too bad a paint but mixing brands is NOT a good idea due to compatabilty problems eg Lacquer flaking from basecoat for instance. i used Lechler for 2 years at a previous job so i pretty much know the stuff quite well on its strengths and weakness's. Silicone contamination can be caused by lots of ways but anyway enough of quibbling. Hats off to you dude for your determination and willing on your project and looks great in mallard green

[RSandy]

safe to say its been a fair old while since i updated this

dont get too excited, not a lot has happened, been dragging my feet, but i have given myself a kick up the arse n got moving again over the last 2 weekends, so fingers crossed it will pick up pace once again

got a few bits and bobs dropped into the engine bay, still not running, but looks a bit more complete



i got bored of my rear wheel camber issue, so in a random act, i took the grinder to the rear strut brace and removed it



rear struts need repainting obviously, but on the plus side, the stance is now sorted:





i also got round to properly fitting my rollcage. stupidly i never bothered to notice i needed to weld in the footwell support brackets, so had to do this, which meant i had to do some minor grinding of fresh paint, and minor etch primer work, which will soon be followed by minor black seam sealant work... magical!



on the plus side, the carpet hides it for the time being bolted in my seat subframes too whilst i was at it, ready to get some steel plating and modify them to take my side mount sparcos







oh yeh, got my front bumper finished and mounted with my cooler painted black n the fans fitted etc etc



and a while ago i got bored and decided my dirty mongoose exhaust needed cleaning....and machine polishing













thats all the pics i have so far i think. will get some new pics of my new stack gauges, the strut brace i bought off Luca which is at the powdercoaters right now going satin black, and im bound to think of other shit iv bought and not fitted lol

hope u like

[Twins]

[harvcore]

ace like it a lot

[smitsturbo]

love it well done

[Brian]

Looking good


Brian

[H7 CYA]

looks good

[cossiejsy]

looking very nice

[cossiegreg1]

looks awesome. hope your leaving rear spoiler off

[boothy]

nice

[Portugal]

keep the pictures coming!

sweet work!

[smitsturbo]

im not a fan of the colour of wheels but everybody to there own

[ram]

love it

[nixonfrs]

Looking good keep up the good work

[RSandy]

Originally Posted by cossiegreg1

looks awesome. hope your leaving rear spoiler off

yep spoiler staying off, cant even change my mind either as i sold the thing lol. might play around with a little lip spoiler, but essentially its gonna remain spoilerless, looks mean

wheels are staying as they are for a while at least, was thinking of going white or satin black or something, but as it stands they match my cage and seat backs and engine colour scheme, so will remain grey with polished lip for the forseeable future, need to get it finished instead of changing everything again

currently messing about with seat subframes, and adding steel strips to standard subframes to mount my sidemount sparco seats to them. used to just have them bolted directly to the floor, so quite fancy a bit of adjustment, and the ability to see over the dashboard properly

pics as and when things happen

cheers for the nice comments

[muz]

Colour really does look spot on. Glad your leaving the spoiler off. Mine will be going spoilerless soon as well. Found a suble replacement...

[jonny s2]

looking good mate!
so it was the brace which was the culprit?
are you putting your dash back in

[gingerturbo]

loving it loads cant wait to see in person too see its full glory

[RSandy]

Originally Posted by jonny s2

looking good mate!
so it was the brace which was the culprit?
are you putting your dash back in

yeah the dash is going back in, which of course means the cage has to come out, but it was catch 22, if i fitted the flocked dash, then fitted the cage from scratch, i would inevitably end up damaging the dash. but to avoid damaging the dash, iv had to fit the cage, to then remove the cage, but at least the holes r all there and its just a matter of bolting it. i also had problems with the fitment as it was hitting the drivers door frame, so im glad i did it this way, the cage got kicked and hit around a lot getting it to sit right, sods law it wud have smashed my dash up and made me hate the car

strut brace was the last thing that it could have been causing my camber issue. i thought i solved it when the dodgy wheel fell nicely into negative camber, then i chcked the other side n that had fallen into postive camber, and the only thing linking the 2 turrets was the brace, so out it came. still needs to settle fully, and it could just be my eyes playing tricks on me, but its definitely a lot more even, if not perfect. HASSLE!!!

[chaffe]

Ace looking car! any updates mate? after reading this thread i decided to paint my sapphire mallard! have a look see what you think.

[RSandy]

didnt realise i havent updated this since feb, cheers for the bump!

altho its even more depressing to realise how little ive done since feb lol

havent got many up to date pics, but i have since finished the wiring behind the dash, sorted my alarm, and fitted the dash







also decided to fit my brake bias valve inside the wider section of my centre console, instead of just crudely bolting it to it



and finished making up the subframe mounts to fit the sidemount seats, 1 of the jobs i kept avoiding, but its done now



oh, and my mate`s addition to the motor, built by thugs...



will grab some more pics when i get 5 mins, only done saft little jobs like some interior rear quarter panel trims, some speaker pods for the footwells. and iv since bought some ancillary silicone hoses, and a white nylon gearknob

[chaffe]

No probs mate, at least your still at it! i was beggining to think it was another abandoned project! did you ever get the camber issue sorted? remember check out my mallard saff resto, mallard saff 24v, in restorations.

[RSandy]

think the rear camber is sorted now, rear strut brace was taken out, and i played about with both rear struts as sum1 suggested, making sure the elongated holes in the struts were pushed as far back as poss when tightening up, to make them even both sides. it really does need a run out when its done to settle the rear end down tho i guess

[Twins]

great job ,love this car