Zetec Turbo on Megasquirt, new Turbo arrived. GT2871R :P

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by Maki That's the first thing you had to check you hook it to the black wire not the yellow from the ignition switch the yellow one is used for the cars stereo and everyone knows that during cranking you hear no music in RST Yea yea i know... i always hook up my stereo directly to my battery so i never notice that ..

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[fezzajsy]

[Maki]

Originally Posted by Gregor

Yea yea i know... i always hook up my stereo directly to my battery so i never notice that ..

You live ... you learn

By the way I have interesting thing too, my car doesn't stall sometimes as I turn the key to off position she keeps on running (i'm not using relay board) The black wire we talked about after turning the key keeps giving 3.7 volts from the alternator that don't kill the relays... didn't figure out how to sort it so I put additional switch to break that wire in case the car keeps running the engine.

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by Maki

You live ... you learn

By the way I have interesting thing too, my car doesn't stall sometimes as I turn the key to off position she keeps on running (i'm not using relay board) The black wire we talked about after turning the key keeps giving 3.7 volts from the alternator that don't kill the relays... didn't figure out how to sort it so I put additional switch to break that wire in case the car keeps running the engine.

I reccon you're talking about the black and blue wire instead of the black...

The black is ground imo...

Anyway like you said, learning all the time.

I made my own relayboard but we'll see how well that's all gonna work

Have you got the map online wich your engine is running on at the moment?

[Maki]

Originally Posted by Gregor

I reccon you're talking about the black and blue wire instead of the black...

The black is ground imo...

Anyway like you said, learning all the time.

I made my own relayboard but we'll see how well that's all gonna work

Have you got the map online wich your engine is running on at the moment?

No the black blue is ignition wire and goes to the starter if you use that one you would see zeros on your gauges as soon as you releas the key
The black one isn't ground wire (there are no ground wires in the ignition switch) Red one is plus from batery, then there is that ACC yellow (first turn of the key), then black wire (second stop of the key) and the black blue ignition wire that gets plus only during cranking. All the grounds are brown anyway.
My msg file is from the default files on the MS page.
But thats one set up for edis, so it will not suits you anyway

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by Maki

No the black blue is ignition wire and goes to the starter if you use that one you would see zeros on your gauges as soon as you releas the key
The black one isn't ground wire (there are no ground wires in the ignition switch) Red one is plus from batery, then there is that ACC yellow (first turn of the key), then black wire (second stop of the key) and the black blue ignition wire that gets plus only during cranking. All the grounds are brown anyway.
My msg file is from the default files on the MS page.
But thats one set up for edis, so it will not suits you anyway

Alright...

I'll have a look with the voltage meter tomorrow... and get it sorted.

thanks for explaining the wire purposes

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by Maki

My msg file is from the default files on the MS page.
But thats one set up for edis, so it will not suits you anyway

I can change the edis part in a second, just need to know the spark timing etc.. so if you've got it for me

Wiring to MS is all sorted.. got power on it when cranking trough the black wire

[Gregor]

Well, after 2 days of trying to get it running, replacing one direct coildriver in the ms ecu and uploading the firmware again resulted in finally getting it running.

Now the finetuning can begin...
already heard some nice chatter today, me is happy

[Mr.T]

yes thanks for ripping my MS apart Here is your vid

http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=KXwL0XA_dNU

[fezzajsy]

sweet

[Gregor]

Well , did some work on the MS.

After fitting the tip 132 transistor for running the idle valve i made some adjustments in the megatune software and now it's running smoothly at 900 rpm.

Also put in the standard value resistance in the ecu in stead of the one working with the ford sender as i now have the GM sender ( clt) .

That also is working fine now.

I've now got the same problem as Maki...

Originally Posted by Maki

You live ... you learn

By the way I have interesting thing too, my car doesn't stall sometimes as I turn the key to off position she keeps on running (i'm not using relay board) The black wire we talked about after turning the key keeps giving 3.7 volts from the alternator that don't kill the relays... didn't figure out how to sort it so I put additional switch to break that wire in case the car keeps running the engine.

Who can tell me what could be causing this??

Thanks

[Willem]

Do I get you right? It runs without playing with the throttle??
So that's an improvement

How is the temperature now??

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by Willem

Do I get you right? It runs without playing with the throttle??
So that's an improvement

How is the temperature now??

Hej Mate,

Yes, it idles great now...at 900 rpm without playing with the throttle at all

After replacing te resistance for de clt sender in the sensor from 27000 to 2490 the temperature is ok.

When cold the clt and iat are the same and after some mins of idle it's at 70 Degrees orso.
Looks like its working gooed.

Thing now is the remaining current of 3 volts and the fan's aren't cutting in now but we're getting there...

[Maki]

Originally Posted by Gregor

Thing now is the remaining current of 3 volts and the fan's aren't cutting in now but we're getting there...

You should have left the fan on the standard plug and also I can't understand why your resistores for the clt where changed at all. Who from the stone age did assemble your MS???? did he hear anything about easytherm??

[Willem]

also I can't understand why your resistores for the clt where changed at all.

I think I can answer that one, his MS was build for the standard Ford sensor but now he uses the GM sensor, so the resistor had to be changed to get good values.

[Mr.T]

Originally Posted by Willem

I think I can answer that one, his MS was build for the standard Ford sensor but now he uses the GM sensor, so the resistor had to be changed to get good values.

With the std ford sensor it wasnt good either. Thats the reason why he bought the GM sensor after that he had to change the resister.

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by Maki

You should have left the fan on the standard plug and also I can't understand why your resistores for the clt where changed at all. Who from the stone age did assemble your MS???? did he hear anything about easytherm??

Why should i have left it on the standard plug when the option is in the MS so i can set the temperatures to whatever i want once it's working.

well, the one why assembled my MS is a local dealer, didn't know to much about him at the time...

I tried easytherm myself but couldn't get it right, thought let's get it back to basics and it's working fine now.

[Maki]

How is it going Gregor? I ran yesterday 13,62 quarter on mine. Started with 15.59.... so I'm getting there. So far it's only 10 psi of boost The plan is to run 18-20

[Gregor]

Verry nice one :P:P

I 'm stil strruggling to get it to pass the 6100 rpm makr.
When i hit like 6000 it's like it hits the rev limiter.

Fiddling with dwell and spark maps and maybe onthe capacitord for the ignition in the ms.
Otherwise ir runs fine to about 10 psi same as yours,...

Plans are to run it to about 21 psi or so.
but my engine stil is getting hot even with the blowers on constatly :P

Well hope to see nice time like yours on the quarter mile soon

13.6 on 10 psi is fast.....
i only ran a 14.7 orso when it was on mfi with 12 psi i think.....

[pa_sjo]

Could be valve float perhaps? Strange on a CVH head though.

edit: unless you've changed the valve springs

[Maki]

1. look for the rev limits in the settings.
2. it could be that you ar getting to hot because of the bad ignition timing.
3. my quarter improved a bit.... I ran 12.99 at 0.9 bar of boost and it's not the end
4. remember that problem with the engine not stalling after you turn the key off? I think I have a soliution for it, but first will try it out on mine.

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by pa_sjo

Could be valve float perhaps? Strange on a CVH head though.

edit: unless you've changed the valve springs

Hej,

I changed the springs for rsi items.
could this be a problem?

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by Maki

1. look for the rev limits in the settings.
2. it could be that you ar getting to hot because of the bad ignition timing.
3. my quarter improved a bit.... I ran 12.99 at 0.9 bar of boost and it's not the end
4. remember that problem with the engine not stalling after you turn the key off? I think I have a soliution for it, but first will try it out on mine.

1: both limits are on 6600
2: coolingproblems were on mfi also.
3: nice one. what are your reaction time,1/8 mile time and speed at the end.
4: already solved "the engine not stalling when the key is turned off" problem

[Maki]

Originally Posted by Gregor

1: both limits are on 6600
2: coolingproblems were on mfi also.
3: nice one. what are your reaction time,1/8 mile time and speed at the end.
4: already solved "the engine not stalling when the key is turned off" problem

1. rais it
2. then I think your intercooler is blocking the air suply to the rad or you have shit thermostat. Mine used to overheat on the RST engine, but now it doesn't although the intercooler and the rad stayed the same.
3. don't remember reaction time on the 12.99 run, but one of the best was 0.59 and terminal speed ~174, still waiting for the whole results to be published.
4. how?

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by Maki

1. rais it
2. then I think your intercooler is blocking the air suply to the rad or you have shit thermostat. Mine used to overheat on the RST engine, but now it doesn't although the intercooler and the rad stayed the same.
3. don't remember reaction time on the 12.99 run, but one of the best was 0.59 and terminal speed ~174, still waiting for the whole results to be published.
4. how?

1. had it on 7000 with same problem :P
2. drove it without intercooler with the same problem.
3. still verry good time, wonder wat all the results are.
4. It's getting powered through the alternator light bulb in the instrument panel. Adding a diode to that line to prevent reverse current will fix the problem. ( Thanks to JesseT )

[mad dog younge]

gregor .as for your injectors the rover ones you have are 390 cc and are good for 350 bhp.i had the same ones in my 2ltr ztec mk2 fiesta ,which was running ms ,my ms was ms v3 and was 225 bhp on 8 psi .any way nice build mate keep it up

[pa_sjo]

390cc injectors good for 350bhp? That's one hell of an engine that burns so well!!

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by mad dog younge

gregor .as for your injectors the rover ones you have are 390 cc and are good for 350 bhp.i had the same ones in my 2ltr ztec mk2 fiesta ,which was running ms ,my ms was ms v3 and was 225 bhp on 8 psi .any way nice build mate keep it up

Thanx mate,

was hopeing to get around 280 bhp on this engine...

we'll see what it brings.

Had 230 bhp on 11 psi on mfi.

Currently driving it @ +/- 17 psi

gonna set it at a rolling road soon.

[Maki]

Originally Posted by Gregor

1. had it on 7000 with same problem :P
2. drove it without intercooler with the same problem.
3. still verry good time, wonder wat all the results are.
4. It's getting powered through the alternator light bulb in the instrument panel. Adding a diode to that line to prevent reverse current will fix the problem. ( Thanks to JesseT )

3. best result 2.02 60 ft, 175.71 kmh, 12.99 but hey I'm in drag racing since 2002
4. that's exactly the way I did it... so far it works.

[mariS]

Congratulations Gregor. Its looking really great. Hope that It will be working well. I hope that I get the MS this month.

[Gregor]

Well after cleaning the brakes all around using ultrasonic bath refitted them with new pads.. seems to be working much better now

Made a new logfile today.

running 1,3 bar it pulls nice but have to get some decent tires because as soon as the turbo is spinning the wheels do the same.
The tires are scrubbing the arches so also i'm thinking of some other wheels....

what do you guys think of the log...
stil a little rich on boost i think??

Thanks.

[pa_sjo]

Doesn't look too bad.. try and keep it in the low 12's until you're say 500-1000rpm away from the rev limiter and then progressively richen it up to mid 11's for safety.


Did you fix your issue?

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by pa_sjo

Doesn't look too bad.. try and keep it in the low 12's until you're say 500-1000rpm away from the rev limiter and then progressively richen it up to mid 11's for safety.


Did you fix your issue?

Thanks mate

I've got the rev issue as it's not revving over 6000 k.
ZVH's aren't that revvy i've been told but on EFI it should be better and i see some people over here making more rpm...

[Gregor]

As my old rims had an offset wich was to smal ( et 28 ) so was rubbing the arch constantly i treated the rs to some new ones.

Turned out to be 17 inch OZ superlegerra's.

Looking good to me!


First the old rims...then the new

[Willem]

Hé dude, looks much better then I suspected!!!

[Mr.T]

Nice wheels mate. See you next weekend ok? ill take my vid cam with me. So find a nice bit of empty road.

[jonnyrsturbo]

looks much better on those mate

[Gregor]

Got some work done once again to the rst.

finally hooked up the oilcooler.

[RS 5tu]

Nice looking car, Bet there a bit thin on the ground in you country too

[Gregor]

Originally Posted by RS 5tu

Nice looking car, Bet there a bit thin on the ground in you country too

Thanks,

It's going ok but as my zvh isn't that revvy dicided to go full zetec Turbo.
Bought me a decent silvertophead with cams and all at the last meeting over here so the builing can begin once again
Will be getting some steel rods in there at the same time so the boost can be turned up a bit more when it's finished.

Just need to find out what springs will have to go in the head and what gasket to use, thinking of a cometic..

The new head...