RA Rebuild (Alex F's old car)
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RA Rebuild (Alex F's old car)
Hi there!
Thought I'd share my project with you guys.
I currently own an STi 2 Type RA Impreza, which unfortunately has spun a big end bearing (Hoping it's just that anyway!). The car has had an interesting life, there are a lot of scuffs on the underside and it also came to the uk with ohlins coilovers on it, unfortunately they were shot, so the previous owner has fitted a new set of STi shocks and springs. So I have decided to rebuild it. Having owned one or two modified cars, I have learnt the same lesson time and time again, which is to make your project future proof. My case always wanting more power. lol
So having decided on what sort of power levels are reasonably and cost effectively attainable I have decided on capping the power levels at 400bhp. Hopefully if I'm sympathetic I should be able to retain the standard RA box. Having spoken to severall specialists and one or two people from internet land I have decided on the following spec. The initall rebuild is to get the car back on the road at standardish power (however it does have some random Japanese chip). So the current build in hand is:-
Omega Pistons.
Arrow Rods.
STi V9 Crank.
ACL Competition bearings.
Gasket set.
Cometic Head gaskets.
Exedy organic clutch if required.
Parallel fuel rail mod
Walboro fuel pump
Not too sure on an oil pump at the moment a lot of people say the standard one will be fine, but a strip down and investigation will be required to check for backlash and scoring around the relief valve area.
The rebuild will consist of a full strip down including the heads. Heads will be acid dipped to clean, fully rebuilt, lapped valves, re-shimmed and a new set of stem seals (cant be too carefull!).
The blocks will more tha likely need an overbore however with carefull piston size selection I might just get away with honing to the correct size. I am hopefully going to use Omegas as they're one of the best suppliers on the market bar Cosworth and they're a little out of my price range. Having spoken to Mark Shied, I have decided to stick to the standard CR of 8.5-1. Hopefully I'll be able to run good quantities of boost and not to have too much lag.
The future plans wil include. Initially sorting out the suspension and braking then I'll go chasing power. List:-
Eibach lowering springs.
Whiteline anti-roll bar kit.
Anti-dive kit.
4 Wheel alignment.
Polybushes.
STi 4 Pot brakes (and bigger wheels to accept).
I have decided not to go for coil overs as the ride is too harsh having had them before and from other peoples feed back. The intended purpose of the car is for fast road use, Nurburgring and some trackdays. I want to retain some refinement and don't ant the car to be too skittish on bumpy roads.
When thats all been done then I can chase power, if I feel I need to.
Turbo is unselected, poss TD05 20G or garrett Ball Bearing item (owen developments just down the road )
Hybred FMIC
650cc Injectors
FPR
Swirl pot and Bosch 044
Autronic or live mapped standard ECU
Don't think that I've missed anything there.
I'm currently taking the engine out of the car, so not too much to look at. Not that I've a camera at the moment. All of the ancillaries have been stripped off, I just need to release the clutch and I'm there.
Should have some strip down pics soon
Mark
Thought I'd share my project with you guys.
I currently own an STi 2 Type RA Impreza, which unfortunately has spun a big end bearing (Hoping it's just that anyway!). The car has had an interesting life, there are a lot of scuffs on the underside and it also came to the uk with ohlins coilovers on it, unfortunately they were shot, so the previous owner has fitted a new set of STi shocks and springs. So I have decided to rebuild it. Having owned one or two modified cars, I have learnt the same lesson time and time again, which is to make your project future proof. My case always wanting more power. lol
So having decided on what sort of power levels are reasonably and cost effectively attainable I have decided on capping the power levels at 400bhp. Hopefully if I'm sympathetic I should be able to retain the standard RA box. Having spoken to severall specialists and one or two people from internet land I have decided on the following spec. The initall rebuild is to get the car back on the road at standardish power (however it does have some random Japanese chip). So the current build in hand is:-
Omega Pistons.
Arrow Rods.
STi V9 Crank.
ACL Competition bearings.
Gasket set.
Cometic Head gaskets.
Exedy organic clutch if required.
Parallel fuel rail mod
Walboro fuel pump
Not too sure on an oil pump at the moment a lot of people say the standard one will be fine, but a strip down and investigation will be required to check for backlash and scoring around the relief valve area.
The rebuild will consist of a full strip down including the heads. Heads will be acid dipped to clean, fully rebuilt, lapped valves, re-shimmed and a new set of stem seals (cant be too carefull!).
The blocks will more tha likely need an overbore however with carefull piston size selection I might just get away with honing to the correct size. I am hopefully going to use Omegas as they're one of the best suppliers on the market bar Cosworth and they're a little out of my price range. Having spoken to Mark Shied, I have decided to stick to the standard CR of 8.5-1. Hopefully I'll be able to run good quantities of boost and not to have too much lag.
The future plans wil include. Initially sorting out the suspension and braking then I'll go chasing power. List:-
Eibach lowering springs.
Whiteline anti-roll bar kit.
Anti-dive kit.
4 Wheel alignment.
Polybushes.
STi 4 Pot brakes (and bigger wheels to accept).
I have decided not to go for coil overs as the ride is too harsh having had them before and from other peoples feed back. The intended purpose of the car is for fast road use, Nurburgring and some trackdays. I want to retain some refinement and don't ant the car to be too skittish on bumpy roads.
When thats all been done then I can chase power, if I feel I need to.
Turbo is unselected, poss TD05 20G or garrett Ball Bearing item (owen developments just down the road )
Hybred FMIC
650cc Injectors
FPR
Swirl pot and Bosch 044
Autronic or live mapped standard ECU
Don't think that I've missed anything there.
I'm currently taking the engine out of the car, so not too much to look at. Not that I've a camera at the moment. All of the ancillaries have been stripped off, I just need to release the clutch and I'm there.
Should have some strip down pics soon
Mark
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Righty ho then..
Got me a camera and a few other bits and peices for the build
Arrow Rods
Cometic Gaskets
I'll pop up to the shed later on this eve and get some pics of the car etc.
Got me a camera and a few other bits and peices for the build
Arrow Rods
Cometic Gaskets
I'll pop up to the shed later on this eve and get some pics of the car etc.
#5
PassionFord Post Whore!!
A uprated oil pump, and new modine are a must mate... Had the spun bearing thing on my STi Type R...
8K later its now 2.35 with a Garrett hybrid turbo... etc etc...
Back to Scoobynet... rison:
8K later its now 2.35 with a Garrett hybrid turbo... etc etc...
Back to Scoobynet... rison:
#7
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Little update. No pics though, as shortly after building my 8'x4' engine building bench, I decided it it'd be a fantastic idea to sandwich my new digi camera between the bench and a certain flat 4 engine.. What a twat!
Anyway, all ancillaries have been stripped off, the inlet manifold and the exhaust headers (after a bit of an arguement with the heat shields). All thats left to do for the final strip down is remove the flywheel and crank pulley and take the heads off.
I should have another camera sorted by next week, so will take some pics of the dammaged internals.
Anyway, all ancillaries have been stripped off, the inlet manifold and the exhaust headers (after a bit of an arguement with the heat shields). All thats left to do for the final strip down is remove the flywheel and crank pulley and take the heads off.
I should have another camera sorted by next week, so will take some pics of the dammaged internals.
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#8
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All good the camera still works!
One 8'x4' table
One engine ready for strip down
One Buggered Clutch
Inlet off, took a while as I didn't know where it was connected to the heads/block etc.
One 8'x4' table
One engine ready for strip down
One Buggered Clutch
Inlet off, took a while as I didn't know where it was connected to the heads/block etc.
#9
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Oil pump...
http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.u...=&pagecurrent=
Oil modine/ cooler...
Can't find a link... but if you ring RCM, GG or APi i'm sure they will help you...
A link to my rebuild...
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/projects-40...diy-style.html
If you do get stuck... pop over to Scoobynet... there are a few that will help...
http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.u...=&pagecurrent=
Oil modine/ cooler...
Can't find a link... but if you ring RCM, GG or APi i'm sure they will help you...
A link to my rebuild...
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/projects-40...diy-style.html
If you do get stuck... pop over to Scoobynet... there are a few that will help...
#10
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Just finnished stripping down the engine. Firstly I was quite supprised to find under piston oil squirters. Didn't think these were OE. Secondly how badly fooked the bottom end is lol.
We split the 2 block halves appart and were left with the crank and rods. 3 of which seemed normal and the fourth.. Well lets just say it was a little sloppy lol, there must have been 5mm of travel.
After taking the rods off of the crank we descovered that the 2 external rods were ok, bar scoring from the swarf that was circulating and the two internal 2+3 were shocking to say the least. One of which the bearing was worn down to the copper layer and the other with 5mm of travel had no bearing at all. It had totally disintegrated and what was left had fused itself to the crank.
I have just gotten back from the engineers and have decided that it is necessary to have a re-bore. So will be going for a +.5 overbore. This is due to verticle scoring down a couple of the bores. However bore wear isn't that drastic, varying between 1/2thou and 1thou. They also measured the crank and the journal that ate the bearing was 3/4mm smaller!!
Pics to follow!
We split the 2 block halves appart and were left with the crank and rods. 3 of which seemed normal and the fourth.. Well lets just say it was a little sloppy lol, there must have been 5mm of travel.
After taking the rods off of the crank we descovered that the 2 external rods were ok, bar scoring from the swarf that was circulating and the two internal 2+3 were shocking to say the least. One of which the bearing was worn down to the copper layer and the other with 5mm of travel had no bearing at all. It had totally disintegrated and what was left had fused itself to the crank.
I have just gotten back from the engineers and have decided that it is necessary to have a re-bore. So will be going for a +.5 overbore. This is due to verticle scoring down a couple of the bores. However bore wear isn't that drastic, varying between 1/2thou and 1thou. They also measured the crank and the journal that ate the bearing was 3/4mm smaller!!
Pics to follow!
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#12
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MONGO
could yo do me a favor and measure the width, height and depth of the engine please? Im thinking of using one in my next project next year. Car it will be going in will proberly be a ford.
Craig.
could yo do me a favor and measure the width, height and depth of the engine please? Im thinking of using one in my next project next year. Car it will be going in will proberly be a ford.
Craig.
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I would do mate. But its in it's component peices mate. So If you can wait a couple of months then I will, If not ask on scoobynet
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Little up date, had some fun with the parts washer, cleaning all of the swarf out of the sump pan (crap job), pick up pipe, oil cooler and had a little strip down of the oil pump.
In general the oil pump looked in good condition, however there's scoring to the casting and one of the surfaces of the relief valve is polished. The gears have no burs to them, however where swarf has been circulated, it has pitted where the gears mesh togeather. Pics in a mo.
In general the oil pump looked in good condition, however there's scoring to the casting and one of the surfaces of the relief valve is polished. The gears have no burs to them, however where swarf has been circulated, it has pitted where the gears mesh togeather. Pics in a mo.
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Cleaned out sump, was a pig to do (time consuming) due to baffles etc.
Polished surface on relief valve.
Scratching on oil pump casting
Oil pump gears
Pitted surfaces
Pitted surfaces
Oil pick up pipe. Any bright sparks tell me how to get the 'o' ring out of there?
#18
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Sorted out what pistons I'm going to use. Being the Mahle Powerpak pistons supplied by Subaru4You. They have been sent to my engineers to have the re-bore done and have each bore to be specifically honed for each individual piston. Just got to get the block modified to accept the V9 crank and bearings then it'll be all systems go!
#25
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Well he got all the above bits and some machining done - then decided to save for a house with some bird
I only sold the Scooby as I'd brought the GP, not because I was bored or anything like that - but thats now sold!!! So I'll finish what I started
Alex
I only sold the Scooby as I'd brought the GP, not because I was bored or anything like that - but thats now sold!!! So I'll finish what I started
Alex
#26
10K+ Poster!!
Dragged my Scooby back to my workshop on Saturday!
Would like to thank Andy (motorsport safetly solutions) for the loan of his trailer
But I would like to burn my Pajero for breaking down on the return trip
Would like to thank Andy (motorsport safetly solutions) for the loan of his trailer
But I would like to burn my Pajero for breaking down on the return trip
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