Peugeot 205 with 4wd cosworth engine and running gear.
#801
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (4)
I suspect this car is going to be some weapon!
In the pretty brief test drives so far on damp ish roads it spins up in the first 3 gears as soon as the boost swells in 2wd mode, flick the switch and it just grips and takes off.
So far in 4wd I have not seen any slip at all even though the tyres are pretty old and only 195s
I am looking forward to videoing the guage to see how the psi builds and drops based on driving conditions.
So far in 4wd I have not seen any slip at all even though the tyres are pretty old and only 195s
I am looking forward to videoing the guage to see how the psi builds and drops based on driving conditions.
#802
10K+ Poster!!
Thanks Rob. I cannot wait.
Today I have ordered the replacement windscreen and the relays for the split heated screen to work and then ordered my TRS carbon roof vent.
This weekend will see all the dash trims go back in that have been out for wiring and pedal box assembly and then a good check over ready for the MOT once the screen is in.
I need to also check the bias on the brakes and then also adjust the pedal stop for the hydraulic clutch.
Today I have ordered the replacement windscreen and the relays for the split heated screen to work and then ordered my TRS carbon roof vent.
This weekend will see all the dash trims go back in that have been out for wiring and pedal box assembly and then a good check over ready for the MOT once the screen is in.
I need to also check the bias on the brakes and then also adjust the pedal stop for the hydraulic clutch.
#803
PassionFord Post Troll
Great stuff mate itching to see this done and in action
#804
10K+ Poster!!
Whilst waiting for the screen I made up a loom with relays, breakers and an illuminated light switch for the heated screen, the screen has two sides and is low enough amperage that it can be left on and not burn out.
#806
10K+ Poster!!
I did, I checked with the manufacturer, these ones are made for rally cars to be always on, they run 20 amps and not 60 amps.
The difference is that the main stream ones are designed for a quick defrost on a driveway so they cannot be left on and therefore timed. The one I am using is to stop the screen misting up so runs as a constant. It uses two elements, one per side so you run two individual looms, this allows less current.
The difference is that the main stream ones are designed for a quick defrost on a driveway so they cannot be left on and therefore timed. The one I am using is to stop the screen misting up so runs as a constant. It uses two elements, one per side so you run two individual looms, this allows less current.
#807
10K+ Poster!!
iTrader: (2)
I did, I checked with the manufacturer, these ones are made for rally cars to be always on, they run 20 amps and not 60 amps.
The difference is that the main stream ones are designed for a quick defrost on a driveway so they cannot be left on and therefore timed. The one I am using is to stop the screen misting up so runs as a constant. It uses two elements, one per side so you run two individual looms, this allows less current.
The difference is that the main stream ones are designed for a quick defrost on a driveway so they cannot be left on and therefore timed. The one I am using is to stop the screen misting up so runs as a constant. It uses two elements, one per side so you run two individual looms, this allows less current.
The factory one is wired in 2 halves as on my rally car and we can't have them on all the time mate.
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Caddyshack (14-11-2015)
#808
10K+ Poster!!
I will call the company again and raise the issue but he was very clear it didn't need a timer. I will make sure he guarantees it.
#810
10K+ Poster!!
I now have the roof vent cut in, will post up some pics
#812
10K+ Poster!!
#813
10K+ Poster!!
Roof vent and heated screen in. The screen has a flexible sealant to keep moisture away from the heated element.
Side view, it is open at the back to let air and water escape.
I am making a fibre glass surrouns to finish the roof trim and I will get that flocked and the connect the drain to a pipe which will drain through the rear of the car.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 28-11-2015 at 03:41 PM.
#814
PassionFord Post Troll
Love that mate
#816
10K+ Poster!!
I am still slowly working on it. My next job is to get the washer bottle finalised for the windscreen jet washers as the old system was rubbish. Couple more things for the MOT and then paint the bonnet.
My new starter motor should be here for the weekend so can then fire it up again.
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Caddyshack (05-12-2015)
#819
10K+ Poster!!
#820
10K+ Poster!!
Today I am fitting the new starter motor and new washer bottle for the windscreen and finishing the front light earths and the a quick check over for the mot.
Still got to get paint on the bonnet but I might mot it first.
Still got to get paint on the bonnet but I might mot it first.
#822
10K+ Poster!!
I am trying. These last few jobs seem to be taking forever. The new starter motor doesn't engage properly so I am going to shelve that for a bit and go back to the standard one tomorrow.
It really isn't far off now.
It really isn't far off now.
#824
10K+ Poster!!
#826
cossie fan (unluckerly)
Send it back and stick with the original they work fine
#829
10K+ Poster!!
I have had a bit of a break from the Pug but still been doing odd little jobs but today I pumped out the old fuel and put in fresh, it started up well but the clutch was engaging but not disengaging, all it needed was a tweak of the stop point to make it engage further to spring it back more. I was starting to think the box needed to come out again but it is all fine.
Bonnet went off for outer paint (keeping the inside carbon fibre)
I ran it back and forwards on the drive and all seems fine, I even managed to spin up all 4 wheels with a big clutch dump to make sure it wasn't slipping.
I need about 1 more day on the lighting electrics, finish the dash and washers and then I am done for MOT, getting excited again.
Bonnet went off for outer paint (keeping the inside carbon fibre)
I ran it back and forwards on the drive and all seems fine, I even managed to spin up all 4 wheels with a big clutch dump to make sure it wasn't slipping.
I need about 1 more day on the lighting electrics, finish the dash and washers and then I am done for MOT, getting excited again.
#831
10K+ Poster!!
#832
PassionFord Post Troll
Long time mate good to see your still on it I'm taking my time no rush no pressure best way
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Caddyshack (22-03-2016)
#833
10K+ Poster!!
Picking up the carbon bonnet from paint tomorrow. Washer pump all now sorted and much of interior now back in.
I bought another set of compomotive th as spares but this time in 8x16 et 25 instead of 7x15 et 25 so it is a gamble to see if they rub at all, I don't think they will and if they don't rub I will get some bigger rubber under the arches and maybe try the new toyo r888r tyre. The spares will then wear winter rubber.
I bought another set of compomotive th as spares but this time in 8x16 et 25 instead of 7x15 et 25 so it is a gamble to see if they rub at all, I don't think they will and if they don't rub I will get some bigger rubber under the arches and maybe try the new toyo r888r tyre. The spares will then wear winter rubber.
#834
10K+ Poster!!
Still having one odd issue, clutch in and clutch is fine, you can change through all gears at any revs and wheels don't turn, take foot off clutch and 50% of time car moves, rest of time it is as if clutch still in.
I put it up on ramps with engine running, you can see the tilton centre push move and push clutch cover but sometimes when you take foot off clutch it doesn't return all the way home.
I am hoping this is just some stuck air, if not then I fear I need to space the bell housing a bit more to move the box back off the clutch.....the joys of a modified skyline box eh? I think that as my bell is 5mm short I think there is not enough tolerance to allow room for the tilton.
The tilton instructions say to give 5mm air gap between piston and clutch cover. It seems to have less than that so will try bleeding some more and then if not spacer some more.
I put it up on ramps with engine running, you can see the tilton centre push move and push clutch cover but sometimes when you take foot off clutch it doesn't return all the way home.
I am hoping this is just some stuck air, if not then I fear I need to space the bell housing a bit more to move the box back off the clutch.....the joys of a modified skyline box eh? I think that as my bell is 5mm short I think there is not enough tolerance to allow room for the tilton.
The tilton instructions say to give 5mm air gap between piston and clutch cover. It seems to have less than that so will try bleeding some more and then if not spacer some more.
#835
**RS COSWORTH**
Sounds like a right headache your having with the gearbox. Any pics of the interior?
#836
10K+ Poster!!
#837
10K+ Poster!!
#838
**RS COSWORTH**
Leather will look mint what colour did you go for?
Good luck with getting the box sorted will be worth it when your done.
Good luck with getting the box sorted will be worth it when your done.
#839
10K+ Poster!!
#840
10K+ Poster!!
I got the trimmer to add the heated elements, they have two settings.
I had the red added to match the red stitching on the door cards and he trimmed them as if they were gti door trims but with the ribbing like these. I had all the door furniture flocked too.
I had the red added to match the red stitching on the door cards and he trimmed them as if they were gti door trims but with the ribbing like these. I had all the door furniture flocked too.
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800bhp (01-04-2016)