My New Daily
#83
If in Doubt Flat Out...
That steering wheel is better, doesnt look like a 14 year old owns it now. Personally, i'd spend all the money to get it to a really clean tidy example first and then look to do suttle mods to it. Looks like the carpets etc could do with a real good freshen up.
#85
Blag Master
Thread Starter
Carpet is just about perfect (needed a vacuuming).. And it's about as rust free as you'll find
#92
Blag Master
Thread Starter
Finally got the "thumb out" and am doing a 2.0 16v engine swap... Should be better than the old smokey 1.8 8v.... will prolly double the hp
#95
10K+ Poster!!
Liking the engine conversion.
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H3lsing (11-02-2016)
#99
Blag Master
Thread Starter
Swapped out the brake master and booster with new ones(what a ball ache)....Bench bled master... Bled the calipers and wheel cylinders... Still can't lock the brakes up.. New pads, rotors and rear shoes.... I dunno... Does stop hard though
#102
PassionFord Regular
-restricted brake hoses
-bigger rolling tyre circumference diameter (requires more brake torque in order to give the same brake force at the ground)
it might be, but highly unlikely happens that both 4 hoses restrict themselves at the same time.
(just to be sure: lift each wheel up with a jack, apply and remove brake pressure, check if the wheel rotates freely. if not, you've found a restricted hose)
so my guess is the second...
in your "26-06-2015, 10:22 AM" and "06-04-2016, 12:26 AM" posts i see different tyre AR. it looks like you got higher aspect ratio now...
(but i might don't see it very well, i'd better stop doing handjob on myself).
you also put a bigger and heavier engine on wider tyres, (but i think this ain't big deal...)
if this is the case, try this...
if i were you i'd try to run her with the riken wheels again, just temporarily, and try to lock the wheels up.
(if you have 'em sold already, buy a cheap std set at the junkyard).
if it were working, i'd go with the cheapest one, between: lower AR tyres, softer pads, bigger brake modification...
i hope this helps...
cool car though,
this makes me miss my old 5dr 1.3l mkII, she was ugly, drank like a sink and slow as shit... but i always got home.
good job with the swap.
that filter box is a great idea, i had the same for my sapphire, at the right time though...
enjoy this one and keep us posted...
#103
10K+ Poster!!
The 280mm brakes off a g60 or vr6 golf fit these. My mate here can also supply blocks so that Porsche Boxster brake callipers fit...his site is retrofication. You can also put a 22mm master cylinder on there. Also, on the brake pedal you have a wind out Clevis pin, the brakes feel much better once that has been adjusted.
#104
10K+ Poster!!
280mm at least 15" wheel rims required
The 280mmm setup is about as good as it gets without spending serious ammounts of money, you can source the parts from various VW's but you will also need specially made spacers which you can by from the Caddy Shop
Calipers & Carriers can be sourced from the following vehicles:
MK3/A3 Golf/Vento GTi 8v or 16v 1992-95 ish
MK3/A3 Golf/Vento VR6 1992-95 ish
Corrado G60 1990-1993
And possibly even a Passat VR6
Im not sure of the cut off date that VW changed the brake setup to 288mm or even if they will fit the same, thats why I have put "95 ish"
Once you have the above parts I would recomend buying NEW discs, the ones you need are from the G60 Corrado as the others are 5 stud/lug
Again, the M/C servo will have to be upgraded as follows
Rears
As far as I know the Caddy has the biggest rear drums available on any VAG vehicle so these will be more than up to any job, but if you prefer the look and the prospect of lower maintanance then by all means fit rear discs.
This will be easier to fit if you live in the States or have a US built truck, as just about any VAG rear discs will bolt on with a small ammount of work to the brake pipes, you will also require some specially made handbrake/emergency cables. Now if you live in Europe then you will probably own a Yugoslavian built Caddy's with the 6 bolt configuration on the rear stub axle[V] As I see it there are two ways of getting around this
1. Get a nice chap in the States to post you a US axle beam
2. Get the ends of you axle re-drilled and tapped with the correct 4 bolt configuration, which I strongly recomend you get this done by a professional engineer.[]
Master Cylinder & Servo
Its been a while since I carried out this mod, so this info is from memory[] Also I can only speak for RHD vehicles although I would imagine the LHD ones will be simular.
The Caddy as std has a 19mm M/C and suffers from a poor feel to the brakes, the ideal solution is to fit a 9" Servo and a 22mm M/C which makes the brakes feel a whole lot better, and is a necessary upgrade if fitting any of the above combinations exept for the std 239mm discs
The Servo/Booster can be sourced from a Golf/Jetta/Passat 8v or 16v and probably others, I would recomend buying a new 22mm master cylinder from any 16v car, I guess if you vehicle is LHD the Scirocco 16v parts would be the way forward.
You will also have to carry out a small modification to the clevis pin, but as its been about 5 years since I done this I cannot remember specifics
The 280mmm setup is about as good as it gets without spending serious ammounts of money, you can source the parts from various VW's but you will also need specially made spacers which you can by from the Caddy Shop
Calipers & Carriers can be sourced from the following vehicles:
MK3/A3 Golf/Vento GTi 8v or 16v 1992-95 ish
MK3/A3 Golf/Vento VR6 1992-95 ish
Corrado G60 1990-1993
And possibly even a Passat VR6
Im not sure of the cut off date that VW changed the brake setup to 288mm or even if they will fit the same, thats why I have put "95 ish"
Once you have the above parts I would recomend buying NEW discs, the ones you need are from the G60 Corrado as the others are 5 stud/lug
Again, the M/C servo will have to be upgraded as follows
Rears
As far as I know the Caddy has the biggest rear drums available on any VAG vehicle so these will be more than up to any job, but if you prefer the look and the prospect of lower maintanance then by all means fit rear discs.
This will be easier to fit if you live in the States or have a US built truck, as just about any VAG rear discs will bolt on with a small ammount of work to the brake pipes, you will also require some specially made handbrake/emergency cables. Now if you live in Europe then you will probably own a Yugoslavian built Caddy's with the 6 bolt configuration on the rear stub axle[V] As I see it there are two ways of getting around this
1. Get a nice chap in the States to post you a US axle beam
2. Get the ends of you axle re-drilled and tapped with the correct 4 bolt configuration, which I strongly recomend you get this done by a professional engineer.[]
Master Cylinder & Servo
Its been a while since I carried out this mod, so this info is from memory[] Also I can only speak for RHD vehicles although I would imagine the LHD ones will be simular.
The Caddy as std has a 19mm M/C and suffers from a poor feel to the brakes, the ideal solution is to fit a 9" Servo and a 22mm M/C which makes the brakes feel a whole lot better, and is a necessary upgrade if fitting any of the above combinations exept for the std 239mm discs
The Servo/Booster can be sourced from a Golf/Jetta/Passat 8v or 16v and probably others, I would recomend buying a new 22mm master cylinder from any 16v car, I guess if you vehicle is LHD the Scirocco 16v parts would be the way forward.
You will also have to carry out a small modification to the clevis pin, but as its been about 5 years since I done this I cannot remember specifics
#105
PassionFord Regular
Caddyshack, you are kinda badass guru!
i mean it. it's good to know there's you and people with your knowledge willing to help in here, (that's why i subscribed pf).
yes, softer pads is just a patch up job. when they exist they just seem cheaper, but they wear faster and don't last longer...
bigger brake mod/swap may be a good choice on a daily, you might be able to regain the extra time & money spent (if there are any). you'll save 'em by purchasing std parts on the next brake services... just do your math
i mean it. it's good to know there's you and people with your knowledge willing to help in here, (that's why i subscribed pf).
yes, softer pads is just a patch up job. when they exist they just seem cheaper, but they wear faster and don't last longer...
bigger brake mod/swap may be a good choice on a daily, you might be able to regain the extra time & money spent (if there are any). you'll save 'em by purchasing std parts on the next brake services... just do your math
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Caddyshack (29-05-2016)
#111
10K+ Poster!!
Good going!
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